Hacking a Youyue-858d hot-air rework station

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texaspyro
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Hacking a Youyue-858d hot-air rework station

Found this blog about hacking a hot-air rework station. Basically, he re-wrote the processor firmware. Note: the popular Atten 858D+ is probably not compatible with this firmware!

http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/projects/youyue-858d-hotair-stati...
http://blog.spitzenpfeil.org/wordpress/2014/01/05/youyue-858d-hotair-sta...

Edited by: texaspyro on 02/07/2015 - 20:16
tryps
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That looks interesting,
just ordered that exact station for 34€/43$ shipped and might try that exact mod.

BTW here is the link to the relating eevblog thread.

That should give a great value hot air rework station.
I hope it saves me a lot of time and parts as I don’t have to strugle with a soldering iron and all those small smd parts and subpar LED reflows.

WarHawk-AVG
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oh you will be amazed at the ease of soldering SMD components w/ a hotair station vs an iron…night and day (just don’t turn the heat up way too much, I set mine for 300C and slowly heat the part, too much and it ends up heat damaging the component Sad )

Very cool find Texaspyro….thanks!

Cereal_killer
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I just checked my YiHUA 858D and its not the same, doesnt even appear do be a direct clone either and the iC definitely isnt an Atmel. Thats to bad, this looked like an awesome upgrade.

 

Always remember SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14.

ADV
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I have just received one of these units. The transformer has a 2014 date code (edit: board date code is 20140415) and the board shows version 6.0 so I believe it is a up to date build. The manufacturer has updated the programming to give a live temperature display while running instead of just showing the set-point as shown in the blog. It still has the issue where it heats back up without reactivating the fan after going into “power down”. I have an Atmel processor that will fit it so I am going to pursue the upgrades as shown in the blog referenced in the first post.

I do not have any experience with using hot air units, when I worked in a board shop they used irons for SMD rework so either hot air use was not popular then (1999 – 2000) or the shop I worked for just did not have them. I myself have been using an old Weller EC4001. I did take the unit apart before powering it up the first time and removed the paint under all of the case ground points and mounting screws. I have yet to do any board work with this unit, but it appears to heat up fast and in looking at similar units I believe this to be a good value station, especially after the upgrades which will cost less then $5.

ADV

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UPDATE: I have successfully performed the mods as outlined in the previously mentioned blog. The results seems to be a very usable budget tool.

Unit (SI858D) was $42.99 (free shipping from California) from Amazon. Mod parts consist of a ATMEGA168PA ($3.45), one 1 ohm 1% 0805 resistor ($0.27 each, I bought 10), a piece of wire/heat shrink tube (free from parts bin), and a 1.2k half watt through hole resistor (free from parts bin, did not have/could not find a 1k or 1.1k). Total was around $50 – $51 (with estimated taxes and shipping on components, I ordered some other stuff as well). Only changes I made are that I did not use the Oshpark breakout board so I ran the fan sense wire to pin 1 of the unused J5 connector.

EDIT: Github location of authors files
I used file “2014-12-07__commit-a18f02c4__ATmega168-8MHz-RC-osc__FUSES-0xE2-0xDD-0xFD__V1.33-WDT.hex” with fuses L: 0xE2 H: 0xDD E: 0×05

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I am excited to try this to re-flow an emitter on a noctagon, I think it will be much better then using my iron. I do not think the fan current sense mod is absolutely necessary. Adding current sense is better then the existing voltage sense, but it still would not be able to detect a stalled fan. I believe the author of this mod referred to this and was looking into adding commutation detection, but I am unsure if he is still going to look into it.

ADV

madworm
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Just to let you guys know: I will probably not add the commutation sensing for the BLDC fan motor. I do have a prototype for it, but it is a bit fiddly, needs proper adjusting (preferably with a scope) and is not absolutely necessary.

I think the device is usable and reasonably safe as far as over-temperature shutdown is concerned.

Have fun with it.

Robert

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Yep, I found out about these and bought two and firmware modded them both. They are nothing short of miraculous now. Veyr fast and easy to use. No worries about it overheating. Just clean power and heat with accurate readings.

I'm thinking of selling my second one that I have for a backup.. In a box as new complete. Except for the new Atmel chip programmed and installed with the new firmware..

Billy X
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Are any of these mods possible , or even useful , for a Yihua 858 with nobs on Silly .I bought mine last year on Ali , code on the rear;YH-CE2007031-812 (2007?).

jhalb
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Pop it open and lets have some pictures.

Kloepper Knife Works
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jhalb no longer has an extra reflow station. He does have a pretty much mint M6 option 2 from Mountain Electronics on the way though. :bigsmile:

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LaughingLaughingLaughing

Jubeldum
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Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
jhalb no longer has an extra reflow station. He does have a pretty much mint M6 option 2 from Mountain Electronics on the way though. :bigsmile:

I guess I’ll just have to try using my wife’s old griddle (that mysteriously disappeared from the kitchen Wink ) and a 110v burner/hot plate to reflow my leds.

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That works too....most of the time better than you'd think.Smile

Billy X
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I took off the front of the analogue 858.
The phone camera isn’t great , but the ic in the middle is a Texas Instruments LM324 , not an Atmel Mega. On the other side of the board , it is marked YH858BDV3 so analogue version 3 , and from what I understand , people are upgrading the digital board version 6.In reality , it is working fine , the limiting factors are my skills.Thanks for looking anyway.

texaspyro
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I sold my original 858D station from Yihua (that uses an incompatible Samsung processor) and bought a Youyue (with the rev 6 PCB). Flashed the DIY firmware into a mega328 chip (it was compiled for a mega168) and it works fine. I think I’ll mod the code to be able to display temps in degrees F…

jhalb
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That would be a cool firmware mod! I mean hot.Smile

MoonshineSG
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I just received my YOUYUE 858D+ and the behaviour was a bit strange. After a bit of research on the net, I found this. Upgrade the firmware is the way to go!!

When I opened it i noticed that it comes with ATmega8 on a ver 6 (20140415). DO I need to change to a ATmega168 in order to use the custom firmware, or I just re-compile ? If a new micro processor ATmega168 (or atmega328 woudl have any advantage?) is needed, which model should I get ?

Thanks.

jhalb
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All I did was follow the instructions exactly. It took several resets to get it to start working. I forget which chip I used, I think it was the 168. If you use a different chip(328) you must make certain all of the pin registers are in the correct place. I decided to keep the old firmware on the old chip that way if something went wrong at least I could put the old chip back in. Yes, use a new chip(168) and keep the old one just in case. Be prepared for it to not work correctly right away. The eeprom needs to be internally loaded with operating parameters from the board itself. When you get ready to start it for the first time PM me. And start with the fan setting in mid position. Your board has the exact same date code as mine.

texaspyro
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Mine had a ’168 chip on it. I just programmed the replacement firmware HEX file into a ’328 (I had them handy). I did not recompile it. It worked just fine. The ’328s that I had had the fuses set up for a crystal oscillator. I had to kludge up my programming adapter with a crystal in order to reprogram them to use the internal oscillator.

jhalb
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Can you say HVSP?Tongue Out

texaspyro
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jhalb wrote:

Can you say HVSP?Tongue Out

Yes, but ’328s can’t. You can only program them via ISP or a parallel programming mode that requires a bunch of wires. I have an STK500 that can do it, but way more trouble than cramming a crystal into the zif socket of the adapter.

jhalb
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You nailed that on the head for sure.

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Is there anything I need to know before I start the process ? (except that start with the fan setting at middle) I will be using a ATMEGA168PA-PU

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I forget what the correct fuse settings are. Are they in the notes? Flash it, install it. For some reason it will not work right away, don't get excited! Put the fan setting in the middle, 4.5, make sure it is in the cradle and turn it on. It may flash some info across the screen. Turn it off and do it again, after 4 to 8 on off sessions it will work. This is the correct sequence of stuff you see on the screen when you turn it on:

005

1.33

- - -

When you turn it on after it flashes those, if it starts flashing FAN, start over again and try turning the fan to 4 or 5.

PM me if you need more help. The important thing to remember is that when you turn it on make sure it is in the cradle and set the fan speed in the middle. Once you get the 3 dashes - - - your golden.

MoonshineSG
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The fuse settings are in the notes, but it’s a little confusing right now… I’ve done only arduino, so I am not familiar with the fuse concept. A full command line for avrdude (i just instlled that using brew) would be of great great help… Nevermind. I found it inside the source code…

Quote:
If you use avrdude you should use:

lock-bits: 0×0F [0×0F]

L-FUSE: 0xE2 [0xE2]
H-FUSE: 0xDD [0xDF]
E-FUSE: 0×05 [0×05]

“Note that some numerical values refer to fuses containing undefined bits (set to ‘1’ here).
Depending on the target device these fuse bits will be read either as ‘0’ or ‘1’.
Verification errors will occur if the values are read back with undefined bits set to ‘0’.
Everything is fine if the values read from the device are either the same as programmed,
or the following values (undefined set to ‘0’): Extended: 0×05.” (1)

[https://github.com/madworm/Youyue-858D-plus/tree/master/binaries]

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I don't know if you tried to use it with the old firmware or not, I didn't. When it finally fired up and was working I was sooo happy, its an awesome machine.

I hope you like it!

MoonshineSG
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If you talk about the original firmware, then yes, I did. After 5 min I decided to search on the internet if other people find that the functionality sucks and end up reading about this custom firmware. Without hesitation I opened it and checked if the version I have is supported. That’s when I saw that mine came with ATmega8.

I’m still waiting for the ISP programmer to arrive… But my hands are itchy…

jhalb
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lol! Your in for a HUGE treat!Smile

MoonshineSG
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Success!!
After some trouble uploading the firmware (mine is a atmega168p and there was some mismatch signature) and an initial scare (keep showing error “CrAdLE”) – I realised that the chip wasn’t properly pushes into the socket (!!!!!!) – now it’s all good!. I’m on firmware ver 1.37

I might change the length of the ±10 temperature increment as it often jumps by 10 when I just want 1, but that easy…

Thanks for all the help!!!!

Working: board ver 6 (20140415) with Atmega168p on ver 1.37

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