Triple XP-G2 S6 Build

I like triples, don’t know why but find I gravitate towards them when I find the time to mod lights. I also found, after putting together a single XM-L2 S4 that I like the Convoy S series lights. So when I saw Richard’s (Mountain Electronics) S3 triple XP-G2 I had to build one.

I started with an S6 host, triple XP-G2 3C Notigon, Carlco 10507, Q-Lite and 3/4” copper rod.

Set up the driver with 8 more 7135s at the default 3 modes. Pic is before wire modding the spring. By the way, I know most folks seem to use copper braid but I’ve found using wire is easier.

Next up was the heat sink, 3/4” copper rod. Cut to what I thought at the moment was the correct length, square up the cuts, drill the hole through the middle, file the end to fit the S6 brass pill and start lapping the ends.

The problem was that just after making all my critical measurements and jotting crude notes I took my daughter to her soccer game. When I got home I was determined to get this light done, ran downstairs and cut my copper, proceeded to drill, file sand and photograph, then it hit me. I cut the copper to the total length of the original reflector, no consideration of the room I’d need for the MBPCB, and optics.

Ok, check the notes, cut 11mm off the sink and keep going, gotta have this light in my hand tonight. Here’s the sink attached to the pill prior to final lapping.

And with the MBPCB and optic.

Nothing left but to put it all together.

I have to say I’m amazed at the output. Until now my brightest triple was an XP-G2 at 5.02 tail-cap amps in a Solar-Force L2P with an A001 head. That light was built just after the XP-G2 came out and before copper MBPCBs were available, but the copper heat sink is larger. The S6 with a smaller heat sink but better thermal path shows 5.85 at the tail cap and blows the doors off the SF in a side by side comparison, both running Samsung INR18650s.

Many thanks to Richard for putting me onto this combination.

Sweet .

Wow, sweet build. I got like 2 S6's and 2 S3 hosts just laying round, 2 bare triples, the Carlco lenses, but not enough LED's now. So, 3/4" copper does the trick without any outer trim? Gotta get me some copper rod stock. If they can be simply cut with a hack saw, I could probably do this. I got a drill press for doing the center hole.

Sounds like you built a real winner. Well done. I dont own and haven’t built any multi emitter lights but yours looks like it could be the one. Thanks. You can do it Tom E. :slight_smile:

No doubt, this is an easy build. All done with hand tools on my part.

Awesome! Your original p60 triples was what inspired me to build one and this thread might do the same.

Is the 3XP board glued to the spacer, or is it a paste type thermal compound? If it's glued, be very careful when tightening the pill. When the TIR first contacts the o-ring there's still 1/2-3/4 turns to go before the pill is tight and the o-ring is compressed.

Great mod! Thanks for posting it. I've gotten to where I like triples better than single led lights.

Nice mod Itinifni.

Very nice build! Thanks for posting.

I just got in the last parts for my next triple, very similar, but the host will be the S5, the board, copper sink and pill will be soldered one piece, and the leds will be the KD '92CRI' 219B.

I was planning on 12x7135, but you now convinced me, it will be 16. Thanks for that! :-)

Nice!! Good job, looks awesome.
I’d love to see beamshots.

You really don't want to do that, if the board can't spin it'll either chew up the o-ring or break the legs on the TIR.

What if you put a light film of Nyogel or similar lube on the o-ring to reduce the friction?
I haven’t built one of these yet, but it’s next on my list.

my triple nichia s3 gets really hot even with “only” 8*amc
I don’t like hotrods which are good for 10 seconds
otherwise nice build :wink:

The o-ring gets squished totally flat until the front of the TIR makes contact with the inner lip of the bezel, there's a lot of movement in there between when the TIR/o-ring first makes contact and when the pill is fully tight. Lube will probably just cause the o-ring to squirt out the front of the light. Just use good thermal compound, let the board rotate on the pill, and it's no longer an issue. It's less than one full turn so the wires don't get twisted around enough to cause any problems.

Hmm, I had not thought about this twisting problem, thanks for mentioning. In my other triple light the board can indeed rotate. Hmm, I may make the spacer block of aluminium then and have a more lightweight light, the main advantage of copper was solderability.

Thinking on how to do it with the soldered copper anyway..............

The pill is assembled with Artic Alumina and to tell you the truth I didn’t even consider possible damage when assembling. Then again it went together very easy, no broken optic or damaged O ring.

As far as the heat is concerned yes, it gets hot very quickly on high but that’s what modes are for.

Nice triple!

I was thinking of doing the same either in the same host or a small 26650 form factor.

wow. Nothing to add besides give it to me!

Seems like many people are hopping into triples in just a year. Nice build.

I have mine, still not shortened triple Nichia doing over 6.5A on max with fresh battery.

Had this kind of huge block of copper as well, still have it, holes drilled and all, decided that it is way too heavy and especially front heavy. All it does is adds weight, won’t cool better because the surface area is still the same. So as wanted excess will be cut off to shorten the light :slight_smile:

As far as assembly goes, I solder the spacer to the pill. Better heat transfer than some paste.