Can someone, or everyone just dont all talk at once, tell me which of the L2 series of Solarforce lights I would want and why that one over the others. I recently ordered an s2200 and like the look of their lights. I feel Id like to stick to the brand for a while. Im looking at a few different types of p60 (correct me if Im mistaken here) drop ins for it.
The other question is can or are the drop ins permanently fitted to a head assembly for easy changeover, or will the reflectors be exposed each time I change one over?
Im hoping that they are once assembled a unit so to speak. That way I can not worry about contamination of the reflector surface etc. Heads dont seem all that expensive to me and Im guessing I might only need a couple. For clarity, Im looking at an MC-E based drop in (Manafont, unless advised otherwise), just to know what its like. No other reason really. And the L2 seem to be a staple. Im under the impression its quite floody and a good room filler etc.
Im leaning towards a L2P. HAIII, and XML2 as a beginners kit. Although I like the silver one I saw in a thread, cant recall which it was (not the L2D). Just unsure if the spare heads come in the silver too, or if its the right model for me anyway.
When you change dropins, they’re exposed, but it’s not usually a problem. Some people store them in tidy plastic cases; others (like me) roll them around in the bottom of drawers. The solution to contamination would be to buy as many hosts as you have dropins.
Most of the L series heads/tails can be interchanged, so you could find yourself some stainless steel bling if you were patient enough to spend the time digging on the solarforce website. (It’s carp, so if you’re baffled by it, you’re not the only one.)
I-O has a good reputation for dropins, though I wasn’t able to find an MC-E… out of curiousity, what draws you to that emitter?
Side note, many of the L* hosts have a forward clicky switch. For an extra $2, you can order a reverse clicky from the parts section. They usually go in pretty easily.
You would be right to be confused. I meant L series, not T. Will edit if I can. Sorry about that. Too many letters, so many torches, too many mistakes.
I have looked around the Solarforce site, and found some bits and pieces like bezels. For example, the low profile bezel rather than the tactical crenelated ones.
Why the MC-E? I just want a reason to buy the light really. I read the natural characteristic of MC-Es are floody. Multi emiters and surface area. With the host I was looking at, it comes with an XML2 already, its an L2P. An MC-E seemed like a reasonable guess at an alternative with different properties. The drop in was at Manafont, and I have no idea if it even fits/suits. I hadnt got that far. I mostly wanted to know the reasons why one L2 series light might be better than the other.
i believe the alternative name for P60 is 26.5 due to the diameter. Not sure where i read that now, so could be confused with it too, been confused about plenty else.
If you get into it SF is a great way to spend all the extra cash you find under the seat cushions…with good value and good quality. All the different bezel styles, body styles, shapes, tail caps… you can easily have a dozen before you even start on different colors or add other accessories.
The MC-E is a decent emitter. It does tend towards flood and that and the SSC-p7 were my first two and favorite emitters… I have one currently in a SF host as well as the SF Masterpiece Pro 2 that I really had fun w when they were new. The MC-E isn’t as efficient as the XML series but it still has its place on my shelf for now. (MT-G2 being my personal favorite now)
Downsides are the heat it generates and the oftentimes prominent donut hole in a P60.
application.
Keep some money aside for the K-3 accessory head for your SF hosts - its a winner!
Our resident Solarforce Expert FOY has done several reviews on all Solarforce lights. You should find everything you need or would want to know in the threads contained therein.
Flood is kind of where Im at. Seems more useful to me. I ordered an SF s2200, that has the MTG2 in it I believe. It better, its why I bought it. Im hoping SF release the s1100 as a head, and it and the 2200 share the same body, if not ill be buying that too or the K3 you mentioned. I do want something that shines further than I can see too, well maybe I will see that far but I cant make out whats there anyway unless its an elephant or bigger.
I did read something about the donut hole, and its claimed to be near eliminated in the dropin I listed by twisting out the reflector slightly less than 90 degrees. Sounds simple. Probably isnt. I also recall reading that an OP reflector helps too. The one i linked is OP.
Thankyou, that is going to save me years I think.
I believe I have read tale of Foys works in the searches I have done on Solarforce stuff.
Foy is a SF guru…he is enthusiastic, well written, takes great photos, but seems to be off the track a bit these days.
I have not played w the reflector on either of my P60s…though one has a OP and the hole is certainly one reason it suffered collecting dust compared to the flood (oops!) of new XMLs that hit my shelves a year or two later. I had both of them heavily wrapped in foil. The MPP2 is just a sweet light. Looks good, was priced right, still throws a mean flood beam. AR lense too.
The 2200 is an awesome light, most have loved it. I do, but find that I am back to using my lower powered lights (and smaller in hand and pocket) much more - hence the K-3, which I have one stock and one modded up by another BLF member. My favorite uses the 18350 battery x 2 in a L2M shorty host - that is an awesome configuration. (will see if I have a pic of the two side by side) … and you will be impressed w the 2200. Its a really nice combinaton of throw, flood and a wonderful tint. And is beautifuly made.
SF has a newer, smaller MT-G2 light, w some CF elements to it. I think that would be more like the S1100 minus the XML emitter.
That K-3, I can’t speak highly enough about it. Being able to use it in 18650 x 2 or 18350 x 2 configuration is just great. It too has wonderful amount of beam, and that great MT-G2 tint.
Very well could be, I have no clue. Just read about it somewhere, and looked at the site.
Assemble my own multi emitter?, one day, but not yet. Much to learn of which emitters, which tints etc and why first. Let alone what solder joints? lol.
edit: Seems likely its dead. I just tried to add to my cart, then to checkout, and FF tells me the site is not secure.
Im not dead set on it, but I thought it might be an interesting place to start. As the light I was looking at came with an XML2 I could use the XML2 that came with the L2* and swap the MC-E in to compare. I have an XPG2 triple here now, and I think the Maglite LED I have is an XPE maybe (its the newish one, the wrong one serial number wise for mods). So MC-E was the next in line I guess. But as I said Im not set on it, but at $16 i didnt mind if it didnt do much for me.
However, it might be all academic if Manfont is gone.
That is the great thing about the P60s. You can in just a minute swap in something else to try. I have some great stock and now some great modded P60s. Different outputs, different tints, smooth, OP reflectors, AR glass.
I know that at least one set of the MC-E’s I bought as a complete UF light, 501 or 502 style. Try looking for one of those w the MC-E emitter…there are a good dozensites that used to carry them. And those aren’t bad hosts to have a few of around either. You get tired of them, you can always park them in a dark corner unlike a pricey light that you don’t love anymore.
Where did you get your XPG2 Triple?.. been thinking (and recommended to me by another BLF’r) about looking for one of those, but all I have ever heard or read about were someone’s custom for $$$.
The triple came from CNQG, its the Tiny DQG, 26650. Havent had the chance to fire it up yet. Still waiting on a few necessarys. The p60, and L2 series was my start point for playing with as they seem common enough, and a staple of the flocks.
maybe you can post your impressions of that, its neat looking. And promising. What do you think of the quality, fit and finish of the light, even if you haven’t lit it up yet?!
I had CNQG pages open, never got to the DQG page…ever. Just saw tiny stuff…
The ‘flocks’ generally like SF stuff and P60’s…others are a bit hostile.
Fits my budget. And I have at least a dozen hosts…
Richard, from RMM can make any kind of drop in you can think of for very reasonable prices and any mode and almost any lumen rating could possibly think of he’s been making custom drop ins for me That are amazing
Wrap an 18650 in enough something (schedule 40 plumbing pipe works, but highly unlikely to be available in your neck of the woods) and fire it up! All you need to do is get to around a 26mm diameter from the ~18mm.
Its small. The switch is a tad dicky maybe. If I push it centred, its fine, if my thumb leans slightly to the right its fine also, but if my thumbs sits left of the switch it jams. Its reasonably easily unjams, but its worth noting I suppose. Im concerned it might effect the mode selection or in some way cause issues later on when powered. Maybe some oil might help, but Im unsure if it should be oiled. Maybe a drop of hair clipper oil. There is a sharpish edge around where the machined platform for the switch in the cooling fins meet. I assume they cut the fins, then cut the switch platform/plane into them later on. It seems the tool was slightly smaller in diameter than the body width as it left a border so to speak around the edge (beyind where it sits into the wider part of the head which looks to offer some protection for the switch), sort of an \/, but only a poofteenth of a mm. As a result the platform feels like its slightly eroded into the body. Its not sharp enough to cut you or even close, but its a tad ‘grabby’ at times. But I am just being picky, its not an issue for me. Who knows, when Ive held a few more lights I might have a different opinion. But as a nnob (should I correct this typo?), these are what Ive observed. Now that Ive oiled the threads it seems to tighten nicely, without noise. It squealed a little originally. There were tiny clumps of anodise on the threads but they dont seem to interfere with it, then again that might be normal for anodised threads. Oh, it would be nice to have a diagram of where all the bits fit together. Im not certain I have the lens o-ring in place correctly. I have it sitting loose on the head body (no channel or recess for it, that I can see) between it and the optic lens, then the bezel is tightened direct to the optic. Even if said diagram was online and I can print it myself, that would be awesome. The LEDs appear to be centered nicely when I look down the optic. The optic lens has feet that locate nicely in little divets on the led platform making it easy to reposition when put back together. Im yet to receive a 26650 battery so I cant say how well batteries fit or if the claim it will suit protected cells is true, but I see no reason to doubt it. Above all, for the price, its seems like a good buy, Im happy with it so far.
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On the subject of lube, what type of lube is used in threads. I used the clipper oil previously mentioned.
Sadly, Im still waiting on a charger for the batteries I pulled from laptops. But Im a patient man. Obviously I am, I have a wife. We learn to have the patience of a saint.
I am. but I thought the MC-E like the MT-G2 are essentially single point multi emitters. Im not sure that multi emitter is the correct terminology. Ive read about people making their own MC-E/MT-2G mixed bin single point emitters to get better colour mixes etc. Unless Im reading it wrong. When I look at close ups of MC-E show a surface with 4 distinct yellow pads. The MG-T2 has I dont know how many, but I think they are many but smaller.
When you said I could make my own, I thought thats what you meant. Seems advanced to me.
Ah, yes. The MCE and MT-G2 have multiple LED's on the die but are usually spoken if as a single emitter since you mount one on a star like any single LED. When you say multi-emitter light, I think of something like a 3T6 or a XP-G2 triple drop-in.
Don't use a petroleum based oil on threads as it degrades the silicone o-rings. Silicone grease or a synthetic like Superlube is better. I like the oil.
Maybe some of those little issues will stay ‘picky’ once you own some other lights, maybe if you are really happy w the quality and quantity of the beam, the little nits will fade into the background. In the US, its not a cheap light by any means.
And so many of the lights will ship very dry in the threads… as noted, Superlube or silicone grease seems to be the preferred method of keeping threads and fittings nice and smooth.
Good luck w getting a diagram of anything for any light, that just seems common sense but inthe end, they don’t really want you or me to disassemble anything, let alone mod drivers, etc. And all of those lense/bezel/o-rings are pretty similar of course, even from model to model of the same manufacturer… unless you are going to dive underwater with it, hard to see what you could hurt unless you tighten it too far down and risk cracking the lense.
Wasn’t the battery supposed to come with that unit? And no adaptor for an 18650 usage? Now you have me interested, goign to have to check and see if anyone else has posted on this particular unit.
Over here its “Valentines Day”, I better do something it or me and my collection of stuff will need the lumens for sleeping in the doghouse tonight! Understand the wife thing, life big conumdrum for sure.
