5.000 and 10.000 lumen DIY Strong Diving-Flashlight (50 and 100 Watt)

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jlogres
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5.000 and 10.000 lumen DIY Strong Diving-Flashlight (50 and 100 Watt)

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I decide to make my new project , a strong led flashlight , using a 100 watt LED SMD and no cree led only for cost reasons
The cost of these led is near 10 $ on Eday , for the same amount of light with normal led would be much bigger (at least 10 led)
But you have to remember that it gives a totally flood light , you can see everything in frond of you for 20 to 30 meters , more for 100W one , for almost 160 degrees so its perfect for diving
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The only problem that I had to solve was to find a step-up boost driver to take a normal 12V input to 30-36V needed for this led.
For 50 Watt I found this driver (Input 12V – 4.5A and Output 36V – 1.5A (one mode)
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And for 100Watt this one
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Both have aluminum heat-sink so they must “connect” with main aluminum body with thermal glue for heat reasons
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After some search I found this driver for 9 t6 in series that they say can give 30V output with 2.8 to 3A and I was very happy because of the size and 3 modes
When it came to me I found out that it gives only 30V and 1.5 to 1.6A – like always – but it was good enough for the 50W one
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With an aluminum enclosure and some lathe-bearing working for led head I made this one for the 50W flashlight
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The same idea is for the 100W one , with bigger aluminum enclosure to fit the 100W driver
I also made a 100W flashlight , not for diving , but for cooling reasons its much bigger and I put the LED on a PC heat sink with a fan with bigger PD battery (9A-12V) running for 1 hour
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For more details , some photos and how my magnet switch patent works you can see the video that I upload
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKXYfG17LQc


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I hope you like the project and give you some ideas for yours

Edited by: jlogres on 03/08/2014 - 02:14
zeremefico
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I like your project!
Can you give more details about the switch & the charging port and circuit?

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jlogres
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Thanks
For switch I am using a simple 16 ampere snap switch with a magnet on the lever arm and with the outside magnet I pull the switch , I believe that on video its clear enough
For the charger I just glue a female plug inside the waterproof tube , I just have to unscrew the waterproof cap and plug the male charger plug that I bought for Li-on batteries (12.6V-1A)
What circuit ? I don’t use any other circuit except led driver
Maybe this photo will help you for the switch
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FlashPilot
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I like your 100W version. If you mount a remote battery canister to your tank, you could have a much longer run time @100% output while lightening the head and moving some weight closer to your CG. Then you wont have to carry as much lead… I assume you SCUBA. There are dozens of DIY threads online for remote canister packs. Thanks for the great vid. Your switching solution is simple and very effective. Be aware that you’re probably pulling considerably more amps through the KK ICR cells than they were designed for, which could potentially be very dangerous. There is a safer INR version of the KK available.

rhd
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Very cool!

I’m curious – and I ask because I am not a flashlight DIYer – what’s the benefit to using a 100W LED panel, as opposed to, say 10 XML emitters (you could even run them in series, and use the same driver setup) ?

Wouldn’t XMLs be more efficient?

jlogres
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rhd wrote:
Very cool!

I’m curious – and I ask because I am not a flashlight DIYer – what’s the benefit to using a 100W LED panel, as opposed to, say 10 XML emitters (you could even run them in series, and use the same driver setup) ?

Wouldn’t XMLs be more efficient?

Yes they might be but as I said I use 100W led only for cost reasons
You have to pay for each t6 from 5 to 10$ and you will need more space for them (the Cree XML XM-L T6 100W emitter cost about 50$) and for one 100W led I paid 10$, I really don’t know which one is the best but I know which one is the cheaper

jlogres
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FlashPilot wrote:
I like your 100W version. If you mount a remote battery canister to your tank, you could have a much longer run time @100% output while lightening the head and moving some weight closer to your CG. Then you wont have to carry as much lead… I assume you SCUBA. There are dozens of DIY threads online for remote canister packs. Thanks for the great vid. Your switching solution is simple and very effective. Be aware that you’re probably pulling considerably more amps through the KK ICR cells than they were designed for, which could potentially be very dangerous. There is a safer INR version of the KK available.

You are right for batteries canister solution and you can see in my video that when I was testing my 50W one into sea water the batteries were in my arm with a DIY canister but I decide that I prefer to hold everything in one “box” especially for the 50W because as you can see is very small and inside water weights about 150 grams
For batteries I decide to use the KING KONG ones from a review that saws they can give 10A for almost half hour with no problems at all , but because the enclosure is big enough for the 100W driver I also use some times a LIPO 3 cell 5000 mah 20S, of course for 50W one there is no problem
Thanks again

OrionLight
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Awesome project and great video for demonstration! Really impressive flood. It looks like someone just turned on a few porch lights behind you. Amazing!

OscarM
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awesome project! thanks for sharing 8)

jlogres
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Thanks
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I like this photo , it shows the amount of light that 100W one can give – after all they use this kind of lights for lighting gardens and buildings Smile

unknown00101
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If you don’t mind, could you take a beamshot while you’re standing back about 15 feet from the light?

It does look like it’s pushing out quite a bit of light. Smile

jlogres
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unknown00101 wrote:
If you don’t mind, could you take a beamshot while you’re standing back about 15 feet from the light?

It does look like it’s pushing out quite a bit of light. Smile

You can see in my video the same beamshot from distance

unknown00101
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jlogres wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:
If you don’t mind, could you take a beamshot while you’re standing back about 15 feet from the light?

It does look like it’s pushing out quite a bit of light. Smile

You can see in my video the same beamshot from distance

Ah missed the video link, thanks I’ll check it out.

totilde
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I don’t think the apex can provide those 2500 lumens, at least my unit can’t.
I regret buying it…

Mooooooo

jlogres
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totilde wrote:
I don’t think the apex can provide those 2500 lumens, at least my unit can’t. I regret buying it…

The reviews says that it start at 2500 lumen and after a while stays at 2200 lumen but APEX is not the issue here
I just use it to compare beam shots

totilde
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jlogres wrote:
totilde wrote:
I don’t think the apex can provide those 2500 lumens, at least my unit can’t. I regret buying it…

The reviews says that it start at 2500 lumen and after a while stays at 2200 lumen but APEX is not the issue here
I just use it to compare beam shots


Yes, sorry, this thread is about your custom lights, and I forgot to say they are excellent, would like to see a video of the beam during actual diving, if you ever record one

Mooooooo

jlogres
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totilde wrote:
jlogres wrote:
totilde wrote:
I don’t think the apex can provide those 2500 lumens, at least my unit can’t. I regret buying it…

The reviews says that it start at 2500 lumen and after a while stays at 2200 lumen but APEX is not the issue here
I just use it to compare beam shots


Yes, sorry, this thread is about your custom lights, and I forgot to say they are excellent, would like to see a video of the beam during actual diving, if you ever record one

Believe me after the tests with my 50W last summer I am very curious to see the 100W one this summer
I already have my DYI underwater case (cost ! euro Smile ) for my 808#16 spy camera
You can check my other 6 youtube videos I believe you will find a lot of interest ideas and patents there and one underwater video (day time)

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Nice!  You could unsolder the FET's on the board, run some heavy gauge wire to the aluminum body and thermal glue them to the side (just make sure they stay electrically insulated and the wires too)

Can't wait for the underwater video's! Big Smile

You might get better space and aH per volume if you used some of those LiPo square cells vs the big honkering round ones, still...wow...just wow!

Out of stock, but 36V NiMH battery pack (if it would fit)

http://www.all-battery.com/36v4200mahnimhbatterypack-squrecustomize11829...

 

jlogres
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Nice!  You could unsolder the FET’s on the board, run some heavy gauge wire to the aluminum body and thermal glue them to the side (just make sure they stay electrically insulated and the wires too)

Can’t wait for the underwater video’s! Big Smile

You might get better space and aH per volume if you used some of those LiPo square cells vs the big honkering round ones, still…wow…just wow!

Out of stock, but 36V NiMH battery pack (if it would fit)

http://www.all-battery.com/36v4200mahnimhbatterypack-squrecustomize11829...

 

Thanks
For any kind of battery you will still need one led driver and all of them (50 and 100W) works on 12~24V so this pack isn’t helpful

WarHawk-AVG
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jlogres wrote:
WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Nice!  You could unsolder the FET's on the board, run some heavy gauge wire to the aluminum body and thermal glue them to the side (just make sure they stay electrically insulated and the wires too)

Can't wait for the underwater video's! Big Smile

You might get better space and aH per volume if you used some of those LiPo square cells vs the big honkering round ones, still...wow...just wow!

Out of stock, but 36V NiMH battery pack (if it would fit)

http://www.all-battery.com/36v4200mahnimhbatterypack-squrecustomize11829...

Thanks For any kind of battery you will still need one led driver and all of them (50 and 100W) works on 12~24V so this pack isn't helpful

Oh..that site has TONS of 12/18/24vdc packs

http://www.all-battery.com/24vnimhnicdbatterypackseries.aspx

http://www.all-battery.com/rectangularnimh24v4200mahbatteryfore-bikessco...

jlogres
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:

jlogres wrote:
WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Nice!  You could unsolder the FET’s on the board, run some heavy gauge wire to the aluminum body and thermal glue them to the side (just make sure they stay electrically insulated and the wires too)

Can’t wait for the underwater video’s! Big Smile

You might get better space and aH per volume if you used some of those LiPo square cells vs the big honkering round ones, still…wow…just wow!

Out of stock, but 36V NiMH battery pack (if it would fit)

http://www.all-battery.com/36v4200mahnimhbatterypack-squrecustomize11829...

Thanks For any kind of battery you will still need one led driver and all of them (50 and 100W) works on 12~24V so this pack isn’t helpful

Oh..that site has TONS of 12/18/24vdc packs

http://www.all-battery.com/24vnimhnicdbatterypackseries.aspx

http://www.all-battery.com/rectangularnimh24v4200mahbatteryfore-bikessco...

I must say to you the same that I said to another friend 2 comments before (why I choose one 100W led)
Its all about cost – these KING KONG batteries cost me 8$ each from CNQualityGoods (free shipping)
I also have one more 50W flashlight (my first attempt) with a 3 cell lipo 4000mah Turnigy battery , the battery cost about 35$ with shipping
The reason that I didn’t like lipo batteries for this project is that they need 2 different kind of wires for charging (balance) also is much easier to fit 3 or more cylinder batteries connected with wires into the main body than one pack battery

chiefinspectorfinch
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I am aware that cost is very important to you but changing those generic chinese “100W” led arrays with something more decent (Bridgelux, Cree, Lustrous…) would give you much more improvement regarding lumen output.

Society is like a pot full of nuts and bolts, finest pieces always end up on the bottom...

 

jlogres
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chiefinspectorfinch wrote:
I am aware that cost is very important to you but changing those generic chinese “100W” led arrays with something more decent (Bridgelux, Cree, Lustrous…) would give you much more improvement regarding lumen output.

Yes I believe they do , but already I decide that 50W is more than enough for almost any kind of underwater light (diving or just fun -like me)
The 100W one I just make it for fun and impress my friends , if you don’t want something very strong for specific reason the 50W one with this amount of light is perfect
If I had to choose something better I believe that cree-t6 (100W emitter) even working with 50W driver will be better
I already made a 50W flashlight for a friend of mine (photographer) that dives to 30 meters and he is very happy with it , until now he had to pay about 100 to 200$ for a decent diving flashlight around 1500 lumen

rhd
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I remember doing a comparison of a 100W panel (running at 100W on a bench PSU) to a 3x XML light (with the XMLs running at 3A) and feeling like they were roughly on par in terms of output.

The math on that doesn’t quite make sense now that I think of it (100W vs ~30W), but that’s what I remember.

zeremefico
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Can you post the link of the 50w driver?
Have you thought using a 12v battery pack (lion/lipo)?

₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪

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jlogres
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zeremefico wrote:
Can you post the link of the 50w driver? Have you thought using a 12v battery pack (lion/lipo)?

Which one ?
The green one (photo) is more reliable and gives 36V~1.5A (54W) but with one mode and bigger
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-Constant-Current-LED-Driver-DC12V-to-DC30-36V-1600mA-for-50W-High-Power-LED-/321153528036?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac63df0e4

The small one with 3 modes suppose to give 30V~2.8A but it gives 30V~1.5A so 45W is from lightmalls and I am not happy with them because they didn’t reply to my complains about the wrong numbers they give – they didn’t even upload my review on their site and it was the first time that happens to me
http://www.lightmalls.com/9-led-series-3-mode-for-three-lithium-battery-...

Both fits perfect into the enclosure with batteries and all , if you don’t mind the modes I choose the first one – more watts more light

For batteries read above comments you will understand why I choose these

jlogres
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For underwater videos I will use my 808#16 (720p) camera with waterproof case that I made with 1.5 euro
I believe that now is the smallest and lighter action camera out there
In my youtube account you can see all my 6 DIY video , you might find them interesting
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FlashPilot
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I love your ingenuity! :bigsmile: Thanks for posting.

jlogres
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jlogres wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:
If you don’t mind, could you take a beamshot while you’re standing back about 15 feet from the light?

It does look like it’s pushing out quite a bit of light. Smile

You can see in my video the same beamshot from distance