Go get some of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271319198579
Flatten out the legs and re-bend them like so:
And when upside down, the legs will now touch the PCB.
Strip off everything not needed from any Nanjg 105C.
With solder wick, clean off all the old solder, make sure it's nice and smooth.
These are the ONLY contacts on the top that are relevant, everything else can be painted over/taped over/ignored, it won't be used again.
Nope, not gonna fit in a 17mm pill like that, no way...
...so trim off the extra length on the legs, and round off that corner with your trusty diamond file. I've also covered everything with kapton tape, then cut away at the two spots needed for contact.
Hey, where'd the little capacitor go? :~
...oh, there it is! :p
Add a very small little dab of JB Weld, stick the FET in place, then solder the legs.
Positive wire attaches at the normal place, the negative wire now goes to the big tab on the back of the FET.
For the Nanjg's ATtiny13 MCU to control the FET properly, it MUST use firmware running the unsexy 9.4kHz PWM. ALL of the 9.4kHz firmwares have the potential to cause an audible whine in the upper-middle modes (though not on the 100% mode). The non-whiny 19kHz firmwares will not control the FET properly, it's a different animal from the 7135s we all know so well (maybe a little too well...).
On this one, I used a customized version of DrJones' luxdrv. The ramping mode has been deleted, PWM levels are 2, 16, 84, and 255, with the mode order reversed. It still has the strobe and battery monitor modes. Hex file here, along with a batch file to flash it with just a double-click. Also has the source (in .txt file) used to make the .hex in case you want to make any changes or just have a look at it.
http://75.65.123.78/driverhacks/nanjg-092/luxdrv02(255,84,16,2)/