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Rufusbduck
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How hard is it likely to be pushed in the lights in which it will be used? I think we’re already past that but you know you want to find the ceiling first. Push it ‘til it fails or set that board aside and make another to kill. Chips are cheap, much cheaper than an equivalent number of 7135’s.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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djozz wrote:

Slightly off-topic: those Efest 10440 cells can do not stand endless torture, after 5 minutes at high on my little LZZ-06 BLFtiny12-FET build initially it looked like only the shrink-wrap had suffered from the heat, now a few days later brownish gooey came out pulverising the paper disc on top, it still works though…


High current or high heat?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Scott, I’m betting the only thing that could kill that 10440 is a combination of all things evil…high current draining it to very low levels while heating it to boiling point. 5 minutes under an FET driver is brutal for that small cell. But, djozz DID say it still works! Smile

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I’ve ordered some 15’s for testing. I have a few of the 2502’s left for this.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
djozz wrote:

Slightly off-topic: those Efest 10440 cells can do not stand endless torture, after 5 minutes at high on my little LZZ-06 BLFtiny12-FET build initially it looked like only the shrink-wrap had suffered from the heat, now a few days later brownish gooey came out pulverising the paper disc on top, it still works though...

High current or high heat?

I do not know for sure, my first reflex is: high heat, the light got so hot that I burnt my fingers twisting it off. but it had been running at 2+ amps for most of the five minutes by then.

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It’s important to know the failure points of our little light bombs so as not to give away a tragedy.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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It is indeed important to know what these lights are capable of, but it’s difficult to go by my findings if I manage to fry it cause I do all kinds of other things wrong. Wink Nature of the beast and all that.

But you know, if it can put out over 5A then I’m going to be pretty happy with it just under 3A. Might even have to change some things in the firmware to limit it to say 80% or something, just so it doesn’t hit those really high numbers.

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Helios- wrote:
CREE XB-H 16mm with copper on top
Shouldn’t really provide much benefit if the bottom is attached to a heatsink / pill.

If this is a FR4 PCB, I would like to suggest you to put at least 20 thermal vias on the pour copper and near the both sides of the LED’s thermal pad.
The recommended thermal vias size by Cree is 0.3mm diameter. Here enclosed the Cree’s FR4 thermal study for LED. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3l2i2ezhwaqhqy/XLamp_PCB_Thermal.pdf
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http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07592.jpg

PC = phase correct (9.4kHz, 'TCCR0A = 0x21'), FP = fast PWM (19kHz, 'TCCR0A = 0x23'). Levels for both are 0,2,6,18,54,130,255. Both turn on and off and change modes exactly like they should. The phase correct board makes a slight whine on level 4, moderately loud whine on level 5. Fast PWM board is silent.

Why do these boards work fine without the gate/pulldown resistors? These are the exact same components used on the 17DD, which does not work without the resistors.

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djozz wrote:

Slightly off-topic: those Efest 10440 cells can do not stand endless torture, after 5 minutes at high on my little LZZ-06 BLFtiny12-FET build initially it looked like only the shrink-wrap had suffered from the heat, now a few days later brownish gooey came out pulverising the paper disc on top, it still works though…


Thus I think STAR V1.1 and a timeout is the safest way to go

And/or have a approx 50% PWM always on…this way you don’t just run it wide open, I wouldn’t use that battery, it has vented…just not “explosively” yet!

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
I wouldn't use that battery, it has vented...just not "explosively" yet!

Being an IMR battery it is unlikely to vent explosively, obviously something has happened to it, but it just now was still able to deliver 3.5A to the light. But I guess you are right, I will stop using the battery and dispose it Undecided.

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I successfully rewrote my UI! Smile I made a new .hex file for the BLFTiny10 that replaces the 255 Turbo with 190, and the previous High setting with 90. After flashing the little guy I ran it through on the IMR10440 and it does .03, .31, 1.16, and 2.20. Perfect!

My TP has a Nichia emitter in it, don’t think it could’ve handled the full out direct drive. So now I get to try to make a contact pad over the FET and diode and then see if I can put it in my light. This is exciting! Smile

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Woohoo! I now have a BLF Tiny10 FET in my Texas Poker! It’s running, from an IMR10440 at 4.15V, 3.45 Lumens a .02A, 34.50 Lumens at .18A, 127.65 Lumens at .67A and 262.20 Lumens at 1.40A! Smile Finally!

I had changed the driver in it before to get 188 lumens OTF, at 1.1A. So I’ve nearly doubled it’s output level on High or Turbo now, as it has 4 levels now to pick from. I’m stoked! Smile

Thanks Matt, for all your help, and Scott…this little FET is the charm we’ve been looking for for almost a year! Wink

And the cool thing here? I’ve got the FET running at 75%! Can change it at will now, thanks to a lot of folks here that took the time to show me how, and got to laugh at me while I stumbled through it all. Silly

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Is it known if there’s any adverse reaction to controlling the FET through the firmware? Say, setting max to 75%? This is how I’m running my TP and it seems to be fine. And of course, the flashaholic in me really wants to find out what 80% looks like…90? Smile

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It's no different than using a lower mode that uses the same PWM value (around 192?).

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I set Turbo to 190 and Hi to 90, the lumens and used amperage work out pretty nicely. High makes 135 and Turbo makes 273.

Thanks for all your work with these MOSFET’s Comfy, really appreciate it, making this already loved light that much better! Smile

Oh, and for the record…no resistors for the gate or pulldown, works like a charm without em. Wink

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Which firmware? Fast PWM or phase correct? (if it's one of the STAR versions and you didn't change it on purpose, it's using fast PWM, hence why it doesn't squeal like a stuck pig). Wink

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DBCstm wrote:
I successfully rewrote my UI! Smile I made a new .hex file for the BLFTiny10 that replaces the 255 Turbo with 190, and the previous High setting with 90. After flashing the little guy I ran it through on the IMR10440 and it does .03, .31, 1.16, and 2.20. Perfect!

My TP has a Nichia emitter in it, don’t think it could’ve handled the full out direct drive. So now I get to try to make a contact pad over the FET and diode and then see if I can put it in my light. This is exciting! Smile

SWEET!

I am thinking the smaller 14500 and 10440’s will need a “choke” aka the 190 or 74.5% of maximum output…

So you always have a PWM control but it flows MUCH more power than any stock driver they can shoe horn in 10mm!

Awesome job!

oh and no laughing bro…we (especially me) are still stumbling around Big Smile

Oh and throw us up some shots of the Texas Poker light man Silly

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I just noticed that this board is not listed here, so here the 7 XM-L board is. 

http://www.brightlightmodules.com/Images/7xml_scaru.zip

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scaru wrote:

I just noticed that this board is not listed here, so here the 7 XM-L board is. 

http://www.brightlightmodules.com/Images/7xml_scaru.zip

Whoah..nice!

Is this on a copper sink pad or regular PCB material?

wow…all that XM-L goodness and head on 16mm…wow!

With a FET build I would be afraid to touch this thing off w/o having some sort of big ole honkerin’ chunk of copper/aluminum under it otherwise it WOULD become a torch Big Smile fwoooosh

Still crazy cool…

Is there an optic on the planet for this thing? (ooh..maybe under an aspheric on a SK98 zoomie) Shocked

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
scaru wrote:

I just noticed that this board is not listed here, so here the 7 XM-L board is. 

http://www.brightlightmodules.com/Images/7xml_scaru.zip

Whoah..nice! Is this on a copper sink pad or regular PCB material? wow...all that XM-L goodness and head on 16mm...wow! With a FET build I would be afraid to touch this thing off w/o having some sort of big ole honkerin' chunk of copper/aluminum under it otherwise it WOULD become a torch Big Smile fwoooosh Still crazy cool... Is there an optic on the planet for this thing?

Regular PCB material, it has a bunch of vias underneath the XM-L to help with the heat problem. And it is a 20mm board. No optics available for this, I just run it as a mule in a P60 build. With a peltier plate for cooling and a desktop power supply it peaked at 26 amps. I think I may have been maxing out my power supplies though, so eventually I plan on giving it another shot. 

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scaru wrote:

WarHawk-AVG wrote:
scaru wrote:

I just noticed that this board is not listed here, so here the 7 XM-L board is. 

http://www.brightlightmodules.com/Images/7xml_scaru.zip

Whoah..nice! Is this on a copper sink pad or regular PCB material? wow…all that XM-L goodness and head on 16mm…wow! With a FET build I would be afraid to touch this thing off w/o having some sort of big ole honkerin’ chunk of copper/aluminum under it otherwise it WOULD become a torch Big Smile fwoooosh Still crazy cool… Is there an optic on the planet for this thing?

Regular PCB material, it has a bunch of vias underneath the XM-L to help with the heat problem. And it is a 20mm board. No optics available for this, I just run it as a mule in a P60 build. With a peltier plate for cooling and a desktop power supply it peaked at 26 amps. I think I may have been maxing out my power supplies though, so eventually I plan on giving it another shot. 


Wonder what it would take to actually get this built on sinkpad?

Ah saw the 16mm 3x in the .pdf and didn’t look deeper…yup..20mm…still nice!

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Going off of the cost of previous sinkpad group buys, it would be prohibitively expensive as I would have to order 1000+ of them. 

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http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07611.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07614.jpg

This is the first one I managed to get installed in a light. 1.2uH inductor, no electrolytic cap. Levels of 2,6,18,54,130,255, and I shortened the long press time from 32 to 15.

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I didn’t see it up on OSHPark…so I upped it (unless you want to put it there Scaru)

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/hZGiHT7T

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comfychair wrote:

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07611.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07614.jpg

This is the first one I managed to get installed in a light. 1.2uH inductor, no electrolytic cap. Levels of 2,6,18,54,130,255, and I shortened the long press time from 32 to 15.

Nice…so the solder “feet” make good contact with battery tube?

NICE!

What is it running 4x XM-L and at what currents?

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Anyone ever tried to dissolve the fiberglass PCB board under these above PCB “stars” and figure out a way to bond the overlays/traces to a hunk of metal?

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It's in the one using the 6x parts. I have no idea what the current is, I don't have a meter that goes that high. On one 20R I get a reading of around 8.5A, but it gets significantly brighter when I bypass the meter by shorting the two leads together, so who knows what it's really doing.

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07617.jpg

 

I use an old SRK PCB to set the limiter on the drill press, then cut the solder down so it comes out the same thickness.

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07618.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/blf-srk/Dsc07619.jpg

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
I didn't see it up on OSHPark...so I upped it (unless you want to put it there Scaru) https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/hZGiHT7T !http://uploads.oshpark.com/uploads/project/top_image/hZGiHT7T/i.png! !http://uploads.oshpark.com/uploads/project/bottom_image/hZGiHT7T/i.png![...

Thanks WH, I am actually going to order one of these, not to build scaru's monster but to make a moderately run efficient mule as a destination for the many last gen. xml's I have in the spare leds box.

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What kind of light pattern does one expect from a “mule” [which is a reflector-less head correct]

Just a big ol’ wad of light or is there any rhyme or reason to it?

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