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comfychair
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Mattaus wrote:

I've added in-line and parallel resistors to the FET gate on the following boards, all marked as V2.0:

BLF15DD V2.0

BLF17DD V2.0

BLF20DD V2.0


The SRK FET board will have to wait to be updated. Somehow the Eagle files for it have become corrupted and some of the layers have been deleted. It's a fair bit of work to get it back to the state it was and I just don't have time to build it back up this weekend sorry Sad

- Matt

The SRK driver doesn't need the resistors, though I have no idea why. They work beautifully without them just like all the earlier test versions do/did. So that leaves the only alteration being the switch pad redesign, which really isn't necessary. The way I settled on doing it is to strip about double the length of insulation off the positive switch wire and lay it across both the main pad and the pad on the trace, in effect using the wire itself as the jumper.

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
What kind of light pattern does one expect from a "mule" [which is a reflector-less head correct] Just a big ol' wad of light or is there any rhyme or reason to it?

What you said, it is like switching on a light bulb in the room.

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Hey David, good to see ya! Been a while, hope all is well…

Yep WarHawk, just a big ol wall of light with no artifacts or nothin. The MT-G2 in my chopped AA minimag is pretty cool, doesn’t throw of course but man it’ll light up a room and looking for something in a confined space it’s really cool, you don’t have to point it. Smile

WarHawk, here’s the build thread on the Texas Poker, done by Photon Fanatic almost a year ago now. I’ve been wearing it around my neck on a Ti curb chain the entire year. Smile Started out with a mini fluPIC driver at around 650mA, switched it to the MattAus PICcolo at 800mA then found one that would do 1A. Now it’s running at a limited 1.42A for the Nichia 219B that’s in it. Really liking how it functions, 3 1/2 lumens in low is nice, and it comes on so neat and smooth. Perfect! Smile

In the last year, since I had this Ti light made, I’ve managed to build some pretty neat lights. I’ve got a few favorites, with the M8 up at the top of the list. But this little TP is special. Whole different category of course, so to finally be getting it’s output up in modern times, well, it’s nice.

With a big handful of BLF members directly influencing the making of this light and it’s components…Comfy, Rufusbduck, MattAus, PhotonFanatic, RMM, JonnyC, there’s been a lot of help from a lot of really great folks here and I Greatly Appreciate It!

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or three…

This drivers pcb is thinner by almost half than the prototype PICcolo driver. So it sits inside the copper pill which worked out really nice, allowing me to solder the ground ring to the wall of the pill pretty easily. I used Rufusbducks sandwiching idea to pot the top side of the board with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and placed a disc of copper for the battery positive contact right on top of the small FET, pressing the AATA to a thin layer between them. With the power lead coming through the board, I simply stripped the insulation, twisted the wire, wrapped it around the copper disc and soldered it in place. Then sanded most of the solder off so the battery has as direct contact to the copper as possible. The AATA was white and shiny, til the flux made it ugly. Oh well. Not like it’s seen other than here. Silly

As you can see, in spite of Comfy’s efforts to make the Convoy S6 ultra small, the Texas Poker is tiny beside it. Sure do like seeing those .5mm threads all over the place! Especially in copper…. ahhhh :bigsmile:

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djozz wrote:
Being an IMR battery it is unlikely to vent explosively, obviously something has happened to it, but it just now was still able to deliver 3.5A to the light. But I guess you are right, I will stop using the battery and dispose it Undecided.

Any interest in checking the button top on your efest10440 for a PTC or CID? You can see it in these 18650 pictures.


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

comfychair
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LOL Wink I didn't try to make the S6 ultra small, I just tried to get rid of the wasted space in the existing design. It's practically a baseball bat compared to others...

http://75.65.123.78/z1/Dsc07622.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/z1/Dsc07623.jpg

DB Custom
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Smile I was making reference to the fact that the S6 I showed the TP next to wasn’t stock. Probably should have put a stock one next to it, or showed it next to the S2200. lol

I could’ve shown it next to a mini C8 and made it look big… it’s about the same size as the mini C8 and without looking close it would have looked full size.

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Dbcstm, you can clean it up with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. B-12 works faster but is much more toxic. Neither seems to affect the solder mask or silkscreen.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I just built the second BLF Tiny10 FET. :bigsmile: It’s running 3.48A to an XM-L2 T6 3C. I’m either going to hook it up to a de-domed XP-G2 R5 1A or a domed XP-G2 R5 3C. Whatdya think?

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DBCstm wrote:
Hey David, good to see ya! Been a while, hope all is well...

Yup, all is well I just have been really busy with school and haven't really had the time to get on to BLF. Thanks for asking though. 

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so I’ve been filling in for you. Wink

The little 3” Texas Poker is now doing 552 Out the Front lumens at start up, 452 at 30 seconds. Pulling ~3.02A from an Efest IMR10440. Smile De-domed XP-G2 R5 1A.

BLF Tiny10 FET with 22 ga Silicone wires. No limits in the firmware.

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DBCstm wrote:
so I've been filling in for you. Wink The little 3" Texas Poker is now doing 552 Out the Front lumens at start up, 452 at 30 seconds. Pulling ~3.02A from an Efest IMR10440. Smile De-domed XP-G2 R5 1A. BLF Tiny10 FET with 22 ga Silicone wires. No limits in the firmware.
Nice! I did get access to some lab power supplies so I have been playing around with XM-Ls at sub-zero temperatures (peltier plates and dry ice); it got brighter all the way up to 9 amps. Big Smile Someday I'm gonna get set up to measure lumens and redo that experiment and see how many lumens I can hit with an XM-L. 
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scaru wrote:

DBCstm wrote:
so I've been filling in for you. Wink The little 3" Texas Poker is now doing 552 Out the Front lumens at start up, 452 at 30 seconds. Pulling ~3.02A from an Efest IMR10440. Smile De-domed XP-G2 R5 1A. BLF Tiny10 FET with 22 ga Silicone wires. No limits in the firmware.
Nice! I did get access to some lab power supplies so I have been playing around with XM-Ls at sub-zero temperatures (peltier plates and dry ice); it got brighter all the way up to 9 amps. Big Smile 

(nice to see you still around every now and then) I would not mind a post about that with a picture of the set-up, nice tests! Smile

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djozz wrote:

scaru wrote:

DBCstm wrote:
so I've been filling in for you. Wink The little 3" Texas Poker is now doing 552 Out the Front lumens at start up, 452 at 30 seconds. Pulling ~3.02A from an Efest IMR10440. Smile De-domed XP-G2 R5 1A. BLF Tiny10 FET with 22 ga Silicone wires. No limits in the firmware.
Nice! I did get access to some lab power supplies so I have been playing around with XM-Ls at sub-zero temperatures (peltier plates and dry ice); it got brighter all the way up to 9 amps. Big Smile 

(nice to see you still around every now and then) I would not mind a post about that with a picture of the set-up, nice tests! Smile

Once I'm set up to do it in a more scientific manner I will make a post about it. 

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DBCstm wrote:
so I’ve been filling in for you. Wink

The little 3” Texas Poker is now doing 552 Out the Front lumens at start up, 452 at 30 seconds. Pulling ~3.02A from an Efest IMR10440. Smile De-domed XP-G2 R5 1A.

BLF Tiny10 FET with 22 ga Silicone wires. No limits in the firmware.

That pushing those amounts of lumens has GOT to be getting hot really fast…but still…a complete sleeper
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It’s got all the copper it can have and still be silver in color.

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DBCstm wrote:
I just built the second BLF Tiny10 FET. :bigsmile: It’s running 3.48A to an XM-L2 T6 3C. I’m either going to hook it up to a de-domed XP-G2 R5 1A or a domed XP-G2 R5 3C. Whatdya think?

I’m thinking at this rate we’re gonna need another gb on more of them. Matt hasn’t even got his and I’m all out.

Always glad to see you Scaru. Yours have been some of the most helpful threads here.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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comfychair wrote:

The SRK driver doesn't need the resistors, though I have no idea why. They work beautifully without them just like all the earlier test versions do/did. So that leaves the only alteration being the switch pad redesign, which really isn't necessary. The way I settled on doing it is to strip about double the length of insulation off the positive switch wire and lay it across both the main pad and the pad on the trace, in effect using the wire itself as the jumper.

It's pretty much done, so I may as well upload the redesigned board anyway. I'll label it as V2.0. Should be up tonight.

- Matt

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No problem, if they work without them the gate resistor can just use a jumper.

Is it possible the longer trace on the SRK board is why those don't need the resistors? I really can't come up with anything that makes sense to explain it. :~

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Anyone ever tried to dissolve the fiberglass PCB board under these above PCB “stars” and figure out a way to bond the overlays/traces to a hunk of metal?

I don’t know about dissolving fiberglass since it’s resin and fiber but you can sand it thinner. The more common way of doing it so far has been to drill or machine out the center pad and replace it with copper.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I’m amazed at how close the components can be on the driver and not have issues. Some are difficult to see if they’re not touching, they’re that close. And yet some pretty major amperage runs through the circuits and all is well, and with these little bitty drivers the traces just can’t be all that big…is 22ga wire from the driver to the emitter overkill? I had to stuff the wires into the TP pill, even had to pull em through with my curved jaw hemostats, they just do fit, like everything else on this driver. Wink

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Most of the traces only carry signal currents and on the Tiny 10 the trace length to the led pads is practically nothing. Led + is straight through the board with no trace, led- is less than 1mm and gnd is a wide tab. Lately this subject has received more attention and an effort has been made on some of the new project boards to make sure of adequate trace width. If you think it’s necessary you could scrape the solder mask from the drain trace and when you solder the FET or 7135 it would flow to the – via. If it is an issue then that trace width could be increased but that driver wasn’t designed with 10A currents in mind. Wire size is a different matter due to increased length but at 2A awg24 will only drop .017V in 1/10 foot(1.2”).

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Mine’s working fine and I’m loving it! Smile Was just stating how impressive they are.

And yeah, keeping the battery size in line with the driver size there seems to be little to no issue of power handling. 3A with a fresh IMR10440 is ample, and of course that falls with the deteriorating charge level. On a positive note, the more the cell drains the slower it drains, right? lol

Seems to me that with the way mine’s running, Turbo should deliver around 15 minutes, High should make about 30 minutes, Med around an hour and Low around 10 hours. Give or take.

That being said, ain’t no way it’s gonna run 15 minutes on high! Something would melt…

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Just letting you know that 22 is a bit of overkill but if it fits no harm done. You’d have to go almost 12A to drop .1V in that length of 24 gauge.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Just letting you know that 22 is a bit of overkill but if it fits no harm done. You'd have to go almost 12A to drop .1V in that length of 24 gauge.

I agree completely.  No sense trying to stuff huge wires in there when it's only a 1" run.  This isn't a bad example of that but I've seen some pictures where people were trying to stuff 18AWG in a 1" run to an XM-L2, not necessary.  Even 26AWG doesn't show any appreciable loss at 5A at that short of a run.  On the SRK's I really like the 22AWG because there is plenty of room and because the wires have to be so stinking long, on normal lights with the short wires 24-26AWG is just fine, even for hard driven lights.  

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Somehow over the years here I overlooked those facts. It will make my projects come out a bit easier using more appropriate gauge wire. I learn a lot from your discussions here. Keep up the good work and thanks.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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RMM wrote:

Rufusbduck wrote:
Just letting you know that 22 is a bit of overkill but if it fits no harm done. You'd have to go almost 12A to drop .1V in that length of 24 gauge.

I agree completely.  No sense trying to stuff huge wires in there when it's only a 1" run.  This isn't a bad example of that but I've seen some pictures where people were trying to stuff 18AWG in a 1" run to an XM-L2, not necessary.  Even 26AWG doesn't show any appreciable loss at 5A at that short of a run.  On the SRK's I really like the 22AWG because there is plenty of room and because the wires have to be so stinking long, on normal lights with the short wires 24-26AWG is just fine, even for hard driven lights.  

I have noticed a difference in wire. If I use the Teflon coated, silver plated wire, (with larger strands), versus the silicon coated plain copper wire, (with fine strands), I have to use a larger gauge of the fine strand wire, to equal the lack of resistance in the silver plated larger strand wire.

In other words, I have found 22ga silver plated large strand is much less resistant and I have to use 18ga silicon coated fine strand, to get the same amperage as 22ga silver plated.

I believe it's all about the wire diameter, as DC current travels through the wire, so larger strand allows for less resistance. Of course, the Solid 22ga will do about as well as any of them, since it's one large strand, versus many strands. Silver plating really does not seem to matter, since the current runs through the wire, not on the outside of the wire, like AC current does.

 

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Being as how I have 22ga and 20ga silicone wire on hand, that’s what I used. If I’d known these things I might have used the smaller wires from previous Qlite’s.

Thanks for that info, really is nice to know.

I do have some 22ga Teflon wire as well, with the larger strands and silver plating, but it’s so dang stiff! Tuff stuff though, might keep that in mind…

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The Teflon is tougher and has a thinner casing so if you need higher current and have longer wires but not much room it can be useful. I just find I have to be more careful to pot the driver to keep the pads or wires from shearing off. The flexible stuff is nice to use but thicker and easier to nick.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I have lots of parts & boards on the way, will be building the 15, 17, 20, & more of the SRK drivers. I'll post up a revised parts list for each one once I'm confident everything is right.

Also on the way are a few different big FETs, to see if that changes anything with the gate/pulldown resistors.

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