Homemade P-60 Drop-in XML 1A vs 1D

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E1320
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Homemade P-60 Drop-in XML 1A vs 1D

 I started making my own p60 drop ins for fun.  I really liked the cool white 1A tint for brightness at first at 2.8 amps these are as bright as the Manafont direct drive drop ins, but now I am totally infatuated with the 1D tint.

I use these P60 empty drop ins

http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11201

I use the Nanjg 105c 2.8 amp drivers.

http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11088

I use these isolation discs.

http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1745

I was using these cool white XML 1A on 16mm stars.

http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11130

I use these Shiningbeam XML premium tint 1D on 16mm stars.

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-34/**NEW**-Cree-XM-dsh-L-T6/Detail

 

Here is some parts fresh out of the envelope.

 

Drivers are soldered, 3 mode selected and ready, going to prefit everything before I solder the emitter and driver in and glue it down with Fujik on both sides driver and emitter.

 

 Driver is glued and soldered in, looks good.

 

 Emitter is glued in and the isolation disc is stuck on top to prevent shorts to the reflector.

 Used an OP reflector, it is good to go now to find a host to test it in.

 

 

Host 504B XML 1D on left XML 1A on right low mode.

 1D on left 1A on right medium mode

 1D on left and 1A on right high mode.

 I am really liking the 1D tint. The camera really captures a very accurate tint color. Now what do I do with all the 1A tint drop ins I made? What do you guys think about these 1D tint emitters?

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Edited by: E1320 on 06/25/2011 - 15:47
jacktheclipper
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Awesome .

JohnnyMac
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I think I like that 1D tint a lot. I'd still be willing to receive all the 1A emitters you no longer want. Big Smile

agenthex
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Oh, wow, 1D look awesome. The world has too many 1A's anyway. You should sell some to your friends on BLF. Big Smile

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Davx
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1D tint looks really good! Do you think i could use teflon disk as isolation disk?

"There are always new jobs, women, and apartments......there is only ONE BLF." - Chicago X (27/03/2012)

RedForest UK
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1D is nice, I like the 1A tint when they come with a little red in the beam, both of my manafont drop-ins came like that. By far my favourite though is the 3C neutral tint which you can get in T5 flux bin from illuminationsupply, they're only $9 each as well. So not more expensive than these cool tinted ones.

EDIT: Sorry, I just checked and it appears they're sold out. It may be worth contacting them to ask when they'll be getting more in stock though.

E1320
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Davx wrote:

1D tint looks really good! Do you think i could use teflon disk as isolation disk?

You can use anything that is not conductive and fits between the reflector and the pill, I usually squirt a little Fujik on the solder points before I stick the isolation disc on for added piece of mind.

 

RF UK  I have a T5 3C but it's on a 21mm star, so it won't fit on a P-60 pill. I was hoping to use it on the Tmart C8 deal that went bad, maybe I will take my C2 apart and try it on that.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

dorpmuller
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If you wanna get rid of the 1A's I'll take 'em!! I don't like the 1D.

Serious!

Rich

"I am the flashlight king! I can light anything!"

monanoke
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I love the 1D, esp when doing inspection work.  Better color rendering

C

kragmutt
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Hey nice post. I didn't know making your own drop-in was so simple.

I can see it now: "the BLF build-a-P60 dropin" at your local mall.

Davx
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kragmutt wrote:

Hey nice post. I didn't know making your own drop-in was so simple.

I can see it now: "the BLF build-a-P60 dropin" at your local mall.

We can sell thousand of it and with money we can create the BLF flashlight Factory, where your dream come true!Laughing

Building a drop-in is not so difficult. The real problem is to find the right reflector for the emitter you want to use. For Q5, Q3, etc is quite simple but for some other emitter (R5) is really difficult.

"There are always new jobs, women, and apartments......there is only ONE BLF." - Chicago X (27/03/2012)

E1320
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Davx wrote:

kragmutt wrote:

Hey nice post. I didn't know making your own drop-in was so simple.

I can see it now: "the BLF build-a-P60 dropin" at your local mall.

We can sell thousand of it and with money we can create the BLF flashlight Factory, where your dream come true!Laughing

Building a drop-in is not so difficult. The real problem is to find the right reflector for the emitter you want to use. For Q5, Q3, etc is quite simple but for some other emitter (R5) is really difficult.

You are so right about the reflectors, but really why would you build an R5 when for $2 dollars more you can have an XML that does everything better. I have even converted R5 lights to XML and they are noticeably brighter.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/2418

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Hrvoje
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Davx]</p><p>[quote=kragmutt wrote:

Hey nice post. I didn't know making your own drop-in was so simple.

I can see it now: "the BLF build-a-P60 dropin" at your local mall.

[/quote

 

We can sell thousand of it and with money we can create the BLF flashlight Factory, where your dream come true!Laughing

Building a drop-in is not so difficult. The real problem is to find the right reflector for the emitter you want to use. For Q5, Q3, etc is quite simple but for some other emitter (R5) is really difficult.

 

Have you tried this one? Very goood reflector for XP-G/E emitters.

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9208

Davx
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Hrvoje wrote:

Have you tried this one? Very goood reflector for XP-G/E emitters.

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9208

Great advice!

How can i miss it? Already ordered a couple! Thanks Hrvoje!

"There are always new jobs, women, and apartments......there is only ONE BLF." - Chicago X (27/03/2012)

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Hmm. .. Are you sure that's 1D? I just looked at the cree chart and 1D is right adjacent to 1A with 6000k-6500k. From the photo it looks closer to 5000k. Not quite neutral, but not WC either. Man, if you could get Neutral stars... sell out within minutes.

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E1320
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agenthex wrote:

Hmm. .. Are you sure that's 1D? I just looked at the cree chart and 1D is right adjacent to 1A with 6000k-6500k. From the photo it looks closer to 5000k. Not quite neutral, but not WC either. Man, if you could get Neutral stars... sell out within minutes.

How can I be 100% sure, I don't have a spectrophotometer so there is no way for me to tell the exact tint. I trust Shiningbeam sent me what I ordered and they definitely look very different from the 1As I have, but how do I know those are really 1A. I am positive I like the tint the best out of all the different tint emitters I have and that is what is important to me. Eventually I will find some neutrals on 16mm stars the ones I have now are on 21mm stars so I can't do much with them.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

devman
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ooooooh. must... not... buy... more... lights....

(this month)

Nice work though!

bushytails
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I was able to find ONE "3s" bin on a 16mm star...  last they had.  I should have it in a couple weeks.  Ebay seller JTS Galaxy has them on 20mm stars, but no 16mm boards.  Everyone seems sold out of them...

--Bushytails

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Actually by carefully shopping around it can be made for 16usd tops! Not trying to imply your work isn't of value. Smile It is usually underappreciated and people think you're having way too much fun with that making one for free seems just right. :/ Charging 7-10usd to make one seems pretty reasonable to me.

2,20-3usd reflector/pill assembly (buying bulk)

4usd driver (buying bulk)

7usd XM-L 1A led (LCK-LED)

some thermal glue and isolation disc (less than 1usd for both, providing you already have them)

Solder.

Takes me 10min after the iron is well warmed up to make one providing you like the wires KD ships along the drivers. However it takes 10h for the fujik glue to cure properly.

Additionally 1 20mm oring cut to suit the pill size (above the emitter star) if you like to have a spacer between the reflector and the soldered conacts on star and also fine tune the reflector to star distance not to mention having it sit prefectly aligned which without isn't often the case. Slight tilting may occur.

Oh and btw, i found putting the isolation disc on the reflector instead of the star works best for me.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

devman
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Budget-bender dropins vs. Budgeteer-bender dropins!  who will win?

Specs: same

Parts: same

Quality: ... need a sample from both of you to test ...

Price: Budgeteer-benders are potentially $1 cheaper!

 

Seriously though, I'd love to see the budget-benders work out as a paying hobby.  Then when I'm less poor, I'll be able to buy one. Wink

agenthex
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E1320 wrote:

agenthex wrote:

Hmm. .. Are you sure that's 1D? I just looked at the cree chart and 1D is right adjacent to 1A with 6000k-6500k. From the photo it looks closer to 5000k. Not quite neutral, but not WC either. Man, if you could get Neutral stars... sell out within minutes.

How can I be 100% sure, I don't have a spectrophotometer so there is no way for me to tell the exact tint. I trust Shiningbeam sent me what I ordered and they definitely look very different from the 1As I have, but how do I know those are really 1A. I am positive I like the tint the best out of all the different tint emitters I have and that is what is important to me. Eventually I will find some neutrals on 16mm stars the ones I have now are on 21mm stars so I can't do much with them.

 

If 1d is accurate I suspect the 1A is even higher than 7kK. I wonder what drive current the cree tints are taken at.

Reading this makes you smarter: http://lesswrong.com/

Budgeteer
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devman wrote:

Budget-bender dropins vs. Budgeteer-bender dropins!  who will win?

Specs: same

Parts: same

Quality: ... need a sample from both of you to test ...

Price: Budgeteer-benders are potentially $1 cheaper!

 

Seriously though, I'd love to see the budget-benders work out as a paying hobby.  Then when I'm less poor, I'll be able to buy one. Wink

Oh c'mon making one is pretty cheapish. Making a dozen is quite some money already. I often get material for around 5. Limited by the KD 5 pack driver deal.

Buying bulk can save you often more than 10% which means at least every 10th you make is vitually "free" usually every 8th.

My only grief... there is very little competition for selling decent DIY stuff. Manafont tried but failed deliviring good circuit baord and emitters at reasonable prices...

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

E1320
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I just thought I could get rid of a couple of the 1As so I could make 5 more 1Ds. Considering Nailbenders are $40+ for the same exact thing. I figured the budget guys that can't solder could try them out. I can't see this turning into a business.

The Manafont drop in is still the best deal that's why I have bought 6 of them over time, but the fact that these have modes that are better thought out low, medium, high instead of low, high, medium, virtually no PWN and better regulation make them worth a couple bucks more.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

devman
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Budgeteer wrote:

Oh c'mon making one is pretty cheapish. Making a dozen is quite some money already. I often get material for around 5. Limited by the KD 5 pack driver deal.

Buying bulk can save you often more than 10% which means at least every 10th you make is vitually "free" usually every 8th.

My only grief... there is very little competition for selling decent DIY stuff. Manafont tried but failed deliviring good circuit baord and emitters at reasonable prices...

When the lady in your life watches the purse-strings, self-sufficient hobbies are a good thing. 

You're right about the costs and availability of DIY parts.  I was looking at an emitter on a small board, and after shipping (from germany, in this case) it's 2/3rds as much as a complete chinese light of similar specs

E1320
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oldbobk wrote:

"Better" may involve more than lumens. That's why most of us have multimode lights, and lights of less power for some tasks. I like the beam profile of the R5-R4 the best. Those emitters on high produce more light than an XM-L on medium. So, they do have a lot of usefulness. And the "low" on such a light will run for half of forever.

                                                                                                                                     Bob K

You are so right about the reflectors, but really why would you build an R5 when for $2 dollars more you can have an XML that does everything better. I have even converted R5 lights to XML and they are noticeably brighter.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/2418

[/quote]

You are right that did not come out right it just seams like everything revolves around maximum lumens lately. I have a couple XPG R4 3Ds I am going to play around with, not everyone likes the same thing and for your use in fog and snow the XPG is a better option hands down.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Match
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I share the same opinion as BobK on this one....the xp-g R4 3D tint is currently my favorite emitter....(Sorry xm-l... You're a close second though!)

Budgeteer
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A 5000k XML would be my emitter of choice. Ufortunatly these are rather hard to find and expensive. :/

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

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Budgeteer wrote:

A 5000k XML would be my emitter of choice. Ufortunatly these are rather hard to find and expensive. :/

like this one? http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1125&cat=88 Wink

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Looks like they're back in stock - they were out...  and cutter wants $15 shipping, making that a very, very expensive led, given as you can get them for $7 with free shipping for 6000k... they really are hard to find!

--Bushytails

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but they had (have?) free shipping on orders >99usd, so making a small group buy isn't that hard to make -I made one with my friend and we have two orders each over 100usd just for leds and optics

E1320
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oldbobk wrote:

Match,

        Then I am in most excellent company, sir! While I'm at it, thank you for the MC-E results. It does show the efficiency of the XM-L. For a reasonable, not-quite-max output, the MC-E takes maybe 1.4 times the amperage to give the same lumens as the XM-L. Oh, and I got my 4 XM-Ls to try to build a DD light. I'm going to try a oversized aluminum heatsink. Mainly because I already have the aluminum. Wink I should mail it to you, if and when I get it working.

                                                                                                              Bob K

Match wrote:

I share the same opinion as BobK on this one....the xp-g R4 3D tint is currently my favorite emitter....(Sorry xm-l... You're a close second though!)

I am going to jump on the wagon with you guys. In the top photo there is a XP-G R4 3D in the middle I just built a drop in with a 1.4 amp Nanjg driver and the 3D emitter and all i can say is wow. It is really strange how it can change your perception of what light is supposed to look like. I am totally sold on the 3D were the 1D made the 1A look blue the 3D does the same to the 1D amazing. I am going to order a couple more of the 3Ds so nice.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

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