7135 chips - Answered

Can you meter the 7135 chips for continuity to tell if they are good or not?

I checked a bunch of new ones and from ground to vdd, 95% of them read about .384, (meter set to 2M), but a few show open circuit, so does that mean the open circuit ones are bad?

They are all just loose chips, not on drivers.

I’m trying to make a chip tester with an led on a 10 mm star JB welded to a clothes pin. I think the pins might be too short to make contact in a breadboard. One side of the clothes pin gets 3 grooves with copper wire epoxied in them. Led + ( goes on to B+), led~~, and ground goes to B~~. I have the pin cut to chisel ends and the grooves done and later will epoxy the wires and mcpcb. Adding in a meter will verify output. Might be able to do it using an old driver board and just touch the 7135 to the pads.

I need to test 32 of em on the 32*7135, shorted out, saw some smoke…now I think one or more may be shorted…uggh

How... what? There's only LED-, ground, and the PWM signal from the MCU. Even if you short all 3 pins together it will just put the LED into direct drive (bypasses and goes straight to ground) and the MCU's output is internally protected and can be shorted with no damage (apparently). There's no connection to B+ so there's no way to make a direct short that could fry anything.

Still does not answer the OP. Can you use an ohmmeter on loose 7135s, to check if they are good, without powering them up?

PleaseWink

Why can’t you test them, you may need to design a rig to allow one chip to be inserted and removed easily and hook in a multimeter to check that your getting 350 (or 380) mA of current draw.

what happens when:

  • connecting VDD and OUT with one wire of the amperemeter (use a Krokodile style clamp or something)
  • the other wire goes to + side of a AA
  • then touch with the ground of the 7135 (opposite of the legs) the - of the AA

I think a resistor should not be necessary because the AMC does the work…

No, cannot be tested without being powered up, it's a pretty complex arrangement of stuff inside.

That’s all I needed, thanks.

You can make a test load to see if the chips still work. Of course they do need to be powered up.

R1 should be 1Ω or less and measure the voltage between the resistors, which by Ohm's law 1mV = 1mA (if you don't take account tolerances)

Question…if the control circuit was toasted, could these in effect stay on? My driver worked fine before…the smoke that is…now when it “should” be off its very very low operation (light is still on)

I think I need to get the V1.1 and build at 24 chip one (12A is a bit high for 3 XM-L’s)

7135s don't turn off completely in the '0%' level with the momentary firmwares when using fast PWM/19kHz... you have to change STAR 1.1 from 'TCCR0A = 0x23' to 'TCCR0A = 0x21' to make it work with 7135s.

is there an explanation why?

I think the build I used was the stock compile of Star_momentary V1.0

Sorry, yes, 1.0 is the momentary, 1.1 is the clicky. Still the same explanation, both versions are using 0x23 as default. Both will work like that with FET drivers. 0x23 will work with 7135s only in the clicky switch version because you have a mechanical switch to physically break the connection and what happens in the 0% mode is irrelevant, since that's not the way you turn off a light with a clicky switch. But with the 7135s and a momentary switch light it must use 0x21 or else it will do exactly what you described, the LEDs never turn fully off.

Oh…well then…time for a recompile for 7135’s then and see if maybe the SRK driver isn’t defective

Would an AMC7135 break out board be helpful?

Like my (now tested good) out of circuit ATtiny13 programmer board, would a out of circuit AMC7135 board help?

I designed this board to program the ATtiny13 not in circuit…tested good by Cereal_killer
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/nhVgC8ay

Per Cereal_killer he just puts his thumb on it to hold it down and voila…programmed

Would an equivalent of the 7135 be able to test them without having to solder them down by running voltage thru them tied to an XP-E or XR-E at 350 ma to see if it runs w/o flickering?

I like the breakout board idea. Thanks!

I wonder if a strong magnet backing the board would hold the ATiny13A to the pads?

Great outside-the-box thinking, love it!

Will the magnets screw with the internals of the ic?