Roche F6 hacking

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comfychair
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Roche F6 hacking

Hey guess what?

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc07785.jpg

Those two are nearly the same height (.481" for the stock reflector+insulator, .489" for the 10* TIR), and also the TIR's plastic frame is just the right size to fit down inside the o-ring just like the stock reflector does.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc07786.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc07789.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc07793.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc07790.jpg

 

 

Here's the stock driver dimensions, hopefully there'll soon be a version of the BLF-20DD with provisions to mount a switch in the same location as the stock driver board, and the two locating tabs so it will all fit in the stock hole using the stock brass retainer.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/F6driver.jpg

 

 

blfdemigod
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Would love to see beams shots with that TIR vs the stock reflector. Nice looking flashlight by the way!

My collection 2 Small

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freeme
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Can’t wait to see its beam profile.

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WarHawk-AVG
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Nice!

comfychair
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Beam is OK. It's not as tight as it could be, I have a S3 using the same TIR but with an added .030" insulator (the common butterfly style) & the square hole in the TIR's holder bored out to locate on the insulator's 7mm ring, and that one has a spot about half the size compared to the TIR without the extra spacer. But there's just not enough room for that in the F6.

scottyhazzard
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Yes, beam shots please. Nice looking light.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

comfychair
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comfychair wrote:
But there's just not enough room for that in the F6.

DISREGARD! Yes, there can be enough room - the bezel is super thick, I can shave about .035" off the rear face that sits against the lens and end up with the same spacing as with everything stock. Essentially just moving the lens forward, and shortening the stainless bezel by the same amount.

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Maybe it's true calling is with a 90 degree TIR, lol. I love really small floody lights!

My collection 2 Small

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comfychair
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I shortened the front lip of the white plastic holder a bit (not too much, there needs to be an air gap between the TIR & lens, otherwise it screws up the beam) and the rear of the bezel only needs to be shaved down by .018-.020". The only remaining snag is that the o-ring no longer sticks up higher than the TIR holder, so doesn't seal against the lens. I need to add a small spacer under the o-ring to move it forward a bit so it touches again.

Adding the butterfly spacer (.035" thick) did tighten up the center spot, it looks identical to the one in the S3 now.

Helios-
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I was hoping there would be room to just stack a 20DD on top of a switch board. :~


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comfychair
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Well a 20DD wouldn't fit, since the switch holder board would be 20mm also and sits on a lip inside the head. You'd have to use a 17DD, that itself is no big deal, but it would be a very tight squeeze. 17DD height is right at 5mm, and only 5.5mm space available. Probably not even enough room for the LED wires.

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Still interested in a DD Roche F6 driver? :bigsmile:


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Someone showed a set of vertical pushbutton switches on another thread…modifying the 20DD would probably be doable, adding those 2mm tabbies are doable

Just need the drawing .lbr of the switch and see how that goes

Button is at 6 oclock 180 degrees out from 12oclock 0-degrees

I think it would be doable

Is the nub 2mm diameter/thick

These TIR’s snap smooth onto the XM-L package w/o spacer
15 degree TIR
30 degree TIR for a little wider flood


on the 2-602C XP-E builds I did I used the adapter, had to remove a little of the lip around the top to get them to fit…but they dropped right in, I like the beam profile on the 15mm, makes a semi decent thrower but still floody enough to be useful, I think the 30 degree would open the beam profile nicely

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Thread?


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Helios-
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Sorry, I meant the switches. Tired


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WarHawk-AVG
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Doh….sorry

I am not sure where they are…maybe someone can come in and show us…might be in the OSHPark Project thread

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Searched the oshpark thread. Only mention of right angle switches seems to be by some Helios- person. Post #796 That can’t be it, right? :~


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Helios- wrote:
Searched the oshpark thread. Only mention of right angle switches seems to be by some Helios- person. Post #796 That can’t be it, right? :~

Yup yup
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29562?page=26#comment-581566

Just need that and the .brd file and possibly tweak it up…need a .lbr file for those switch pads on the board

interesting that

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Oh its much too easy using those Alps SKSC switches. I rammed one of these on my board. Its huge by comparison but by adding the layout for that switch people aren’t forced to make a mouser or digikey order just for a switch.


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comfychair
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Surface mount right angle switch: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TL3330AF260QG/EG4389CT-ND/1426859

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/TL3330AF260QG.jpg

 

The TIR I used is made to fit the XML without a spacer as well, it's just that adding a ~.030" spacer gives a bit tighter beam.

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So I somehow managed to create a 70N02 Roche driver awhile ago. Even though I haven’t really found myself interested in straight DD yet and I don’t have an Roche F6. Big Smile
Still interested in one Comfychair?


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WarHawk-AVG
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this?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&s...
Well cut off the push button part to fit

They have that lbr at adafruit for that switch
B3F-31XX Omron switch

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Helios- wrote:
So I somehow managed to create a 70N02 Roche driver awhile ago. Even though I haven’t really found myself interested in straight DD yet and I don’t have an Roche F6. Big Smile
Still interested in one Comfychair?

IRLM2502 would be better, smaller footprint
wight
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Helios- wrote:
So I somehow managed to create a 70N02 Roche driver awhile ago. Even though I haven’t really found myself interested in straight DD yet and I don’t have an Roche F6. Big Smile
Still interested in one Comfychair?

IRLM2502 would be better, smaller footprint

Joke? There should be no footprint issues, this is a 20mm 2-sided driver. 70N02 fits on a 17mm driver, surely it must fit on a 20mm driver even with a small microswitch added? The IRLM2502 is has vastly inferior RDS. It’s a “baby” FET.

You just put the MCU and most support items on the bottom and the FET on top.

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup Wink Wink Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

comfychair
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The 20DD is just a 17DD, with a bigger OD. Plenty of room for the switch without changing anything or moving parts to the battery side.

Warhawk, that switch is far too big, it needs to be one of the 'half height' rectangular switches, specifically the one I linked to or one of the same package size/format. The driver compartment on the F6 is extremely tight and the switch fits into a little machined pocket in the side wall. It has to be the same outline as the one on the original driver.

comfychair
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The stock driver isn't that bad really, it just has some annoying quirks. Could be better (can't everything be better?).

It only has 3 modes but they are nicely spaced, the low is sufficiently low, but a long-press-for-on/off UI really should have memory, otherwise what's the point? It always turns on in high mode whether that's what you want or not. The long press duration is reasonable, unlike the DQG 26650 (three seconds?? you gotta be kidding me! It's easier to turn that one off by unscrewing the battery tube, truly annoying.). And the output is pretty good too - it doesn't lag far behind a Convoy S3 using a 17DD & the same 10* TIR. It's driven hard enough it'll get HOT if you run it a while. The low voltage warning LED is interesting, I guess, but is it practical to look down at the light every so often to see if the LED's flashing red at you? There are better ways to handle it, in the firmware.

The biggest improvement by far is adding the TIR, the driver would just be a bonus.

salim
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Mine has mode memory. Is there any ‘easy’ mod I can do to make it just that little better

wight
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salim wrote:
Mine has mode memory. Is there any ‘easy’ mod I can do to make it just that little better

In what respect?

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup Wink Wink Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

salim
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Just abit brighter. I could start with copper wick on the tailcap?

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salim wrote:
Just abit brighter. I could start with copper wick on the tailcap?

The tailcap is pressed in, there is not cap to unscrew…you could knock out the plug…but getting it back in without a press might be difficult

hmm…this driver looks like a buck circuit (the big coil gives it away), might be able to resistor mod it, also it has mode memory ONLY if you leave it in the mode you want for a few seconds…if you change modes then shut it off quickly it starts back up in next mode memory…a flaw in the programming

Only other way to increase power would be to get custom hardware builds…I believe people are working on them

Here ya go
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/26048?page=6
DrJones custom driver

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