Roche F6 hacking

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Helios-
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WarHawk wrote:
Only other way to increase power would be to get custom hardware builds…I believe people are working on them

My 70N02 Roche driver is done. Actually done awhile ago.


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Helios- wrote:
WarHawk wrote:
Only other way to increase power would be to get custom hardware builds…I believe people are working on them

My 70N02 Roche driver is done. Actually done awhile ago.
??
Helios-
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Well, its done. Just not sure if it might be a little tight for some. Goals were to fit as much on the top as possible (so it can just be reflowed on a hotplate), use an ebay switch (so that no one is forced to do a mouser / digikey order just for a switch), stick to 0603 0805 & include indicator leds.
Lost interest in trying anything different.

~ Edit~
0805. Would have been easy if I used 0603 instead.


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Helios- wrote:
Well, its done. Just not sure if it might be a little tight for some. Goals were to fit as much on the top as possible (so it can just be reflowed on a hotplate), use an ebay switch (so that no one is forced to do a mouser / digikey order just for a switch), stick to 0603 & include indicator leds.
Lost interest in trying anything different.

Would you be willing to put the IRML2502 on it…not as beefy as the 70N02 on it…plus do you really need 12A on a single emitter?

Besides 4~A would be ALOT for this setup..not a whole lot of meat there to soak up that heat…with the ATtiny and 4-5 modes lower than wide open would definitely make it alot more versatile? Star or minimo or (Tom E Omni Mech build of luxdrv dubbed it OMNI MECH because it has 25 different variants in it])

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People seem to like the 70N02.
I wasn’t really planing to use this driver myself.

Isn’t the point of DD drivers to make crazy hot rod lights? Turbo timeout and modes to make it reasonable for normal use.

WarHawk wrote:
do you really need 12A on a single emitter?

I don’t know. Ask the hot rodders. Big Smile I haven’t really got into such overdriven lights myself. Yet.


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Ledsmoke
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To answer your last post Helios:

Yes, why not?, Yes and yes. In time you will Smile

Thank you for making that effort on the drivers. You guys are so damn talented!

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

comfychair
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Mine does not have any sort of memory at all ever, no matter what.

If the sense resistor is bridged it defaults to a single high mode only. On/off still works, but short presses no longer do anything.

salim
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Mine does even if you switch off straight back on. Was yours from the recent weekly promo thread?
be interesting to hear what others have

comfychair
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Mine's from FT, ordered mid-April. http://www.fasttech.com/products/1658300

Long press for on/off, always starts on high mode, quick double click while on gives strobe, single click alternates from strobe to SOS, long press returns to non-blinky modes.

wight
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
[snip..] do you really need 12A on a single emitter? Besides 4~A would be ALOT for this setup..not a whole lot of meat there to soak up that heat…[snip]
Maybe you misunderstand? The purpose of a DD driver is to step out of the way as much as possible (low resistance) and then use PWM to reduce current for lower modes. You don’t “need” 12A, 75A, or anything else for this application, you need low resistance. The maximum output will be determined by the combination of:
  • total resistance of the circuit (FET, springs, wires, etc)
  • Vf of the LED
  • and voltage sag of the battery

If you were to design a DD driver with the intent to use a high-resistance FET you’d be better off designing a linear driver using AMC7135’s or other linear regulators.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

comfychair
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I have a 17DD in that UF-T50 clone thing and with a Sony VTC5 it pulls 5.75A (it's got the original mystery XM-L transplanted onto a Noctigon, so with an XML2 it'd be a little lower). The F6 with no pill/1-piece head has much better thermals than the PH-08 thing.

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and my apologies for the “why do you need” comment

I get that all the time when people ask me why I need a buncha guns…I suppose I answer my own question with the reply Silly

comfychair
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The Banggood F6 has totally different internals than the FT F6!

Different driver: (also note, the indicator LED is right beside the switch, on the opposite side from where the little lens to the outside world is located, I guess it's expected to 'work' by just lighting up the driver cavity and hoping some light makes it to the lens)

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08071.jpg

3 levels; low isn't nearly as low as the good one from FT; the long press for on/off is about 2 seconds while the FT version is about 1/2 second; has memory; double click enters some silly non-usable ramping mode instead of the hidden strobe/SOS of the one from FT.

Aluminum MCPCB instead of copper:

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08074.jpg

It's even longer, mostly in the front section of the battery tube, but also by a little bit in the part of the head forward of the switch:

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08083.jpg

Different font used for the 'M18650' line:

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08083-2.jpg

 

This one from BG was ~$17.50 with the BGF6C discount code, the regular price is nearly identical to FT... the one from FT is better value. (at least until FT replaces their stock with this bare-bones version...)

comfychair
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http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/BG-internals.jpg

(copper ring at the upper left is to protect the bezel while removing it with pliers - too tight to do the normal press-against-your-hand-and-turn trick, and too skinny to grab with a strap wrench)

 

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/BG-frontID.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/BG-rearID.jpg

 

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/BG-f6driver.jpg

FET is an AO9926, dual channel N-FET, just using both channels in parallel. I haven't tried it yet but it should work just fine with the resistor bank shorted out, I haven't seen one yet using an AMC7136 that misbehaved when shorted. And it uses a normal PWM signal from pin#3 to the 7136 to the FET, so should be easy to kludge in an attiny13, it'll just need jumper wires to get the right pins to the right pads (sacrificing the voltage warning LED, which due to its location on the wrong end of the board doesn't work worth squat anyway).

But the little SOT-23 thing? What the hell is that? B+, GND, and MCU pin#2???

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/BG-f6driverdetail.jpg

 

 

 

 

 Nichia 219B, Sinkpad, 10* TIR, resistors bridged and a Samsung 25R? Evil

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Yeah…definitely need a OSHPark BLF15DD [equivalent] (with tiny FET IRLML2502) and that momentary switch on the side, I think having the extra modes will definitely make the F6 that much better

Too bad they drilled out the very middle of that shelf…daggumit..why do the manufacturers do that…uggh

Didn’t someone post the dimensions of the Roche F6 driver somewhere?

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http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/F6driver.jpg

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If noone has one up…I will work on one asap

comfychair
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I need to get with Helios and look over the one he did, I keep forgetting... Tired

wight
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
If noone has one up…I will work on one asap
I still don’t understand your fascination with using a smaller FET.

Helios says that he’s already created one:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29562?page=28#comment-591076

The demand must not be too high for this since AFAIK nobody has offered to test his.

EDIT:

comfychair wrote:

I need to get with Helios and look over the one he did, I keep forgetting… Tired


Well there you go, I guess there is a little demand Wink

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

comfychair
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I'm definitely planning to, I just need to re-order a bunch of other stuff at the same time and have to wait a little while ($$$).

wight
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I’m keeping an eye on the F6 for when I get some other projects knocked out. Your recent info on the BG F6 isn’t exactly encouraging though. It’ll be a little bit before I buy any, I hope the FT continues to sell the nicer ones.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

comfychair
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Even the LED in the 'good' one is nicer... advertised as a U2, dunno about that but it's a nice tint. Looks very close to the XPG2 2B. The T6 (claimed) in the BG version is bottom-of-the-barrel nasty green tinted junk. And it's on a cheap AL board. The two lights are comparable in fit/finish/machining though.

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wight wrote:
Helios says that he’s already created one:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29562?page=28#comment-591076
The demand must not be too high for this since AFAIK nobody has offered to test his.

Yep, Free to a good home but its Untested, No warranty, could use an attitude adjustment.

Really, its a good little driver. I’d like to see that it has a good start. Should have asked Rufusbduck if he would post an adoption flier in the OP. Uploaded to oshpark, just haven’t hit the share button.


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Helios- wrote:
wight wrote:
Helios says that he’s already created one:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29562?page=28#comment-591076
The demand must not be too high for this since AFAIK nobody has offered to test his.

Yep, Free to a good home but its Untested, No warranty, could use an attitude adjustment.

Really, its a good little driver. I’d like to see that it has a good start. Should have asked Rufusbduck if he would post an adoption flier in the OP. Uploaded to oshpark, just haven’t hit the share button.


Cereal_killer has been doing some really good testing and building of drivers…he might give it a go

If you made it, it has to be a good driver, is it ATtiny based?

comfychair
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I want to see it first (yeah, so I have 'commitment issues', lol), I'm sure I'll have questions. Like, what's required in the FW to make the voltage warning indicator work? I have no clue about that stuff, if it can't be fixed with a soldering iron and a hammer I'm lost. J)

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[quote=comfychair]

The Banggood F6 has totally different internals than the FT F6!

There are two different F6’s on Bangood, one listed as “upgrade” with upgraded switch, which one are you comparing?

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Link in post #43.

And the 'switch' they 'upgraded' isn't the switch, it's just the stainless button & bezel, the switch is inside and soldered to the driver PCB.

F6 from Fasttech measures 108.5mm overall, Banggood F6 is 111.1mm (edit: actual measurements from the two lights, not just quoting what's listed in the descriptions).

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comfychair wrote:

I want to see it first (yeah, so I have ‘commitment issues’, lol), I’m sure I’ll have questions. Like, what’s required in the FW to make the voltage warning indicator work? I have no clue about that stuff, if it can’t be fixed with a soldering iron and a hammer I’m lost. J)

Never in my life have I found something than can’t be “fixed” with a big enough hammer…

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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http://75.65.123.78/specialtool.jpg

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comfychair wrote:

http://75.65.123.78/specialtool.jpg


hahaha ASUS Repair Kit Big Smile

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