Roche F6 hacking

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comfychair
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Are my target voltages for when the colors change OK (3.6v/3.3v), or should it be something different? I just picked those pretty much at random then never gave it much thought after. Of course it'll be up to the Code Guru up there to work out how to make the code match those voltages, that stuff just makes my head hurt.

WarHawk-AVG
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I wonder if Helios would do a revision with the smaller lower current IRML2502 vs the larger Vishay 70N02 FET?

Right now my Roche F6 is REAAALY lacking, horrible UI, the H>M>L no strobes long hold for power on/off

I need to get me some 20mm copper round from etsy, I believe I have some 16’s but not 20’s that I can file down to make it fit the tail for better current flow (might even need to upgrade the wires to the emitter and maybe even a copper sinkpad (mine is stock right now)

wight
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Depends heavily on drive current I’d say. Since it’s a DD driver and many batteries will immediately dip below 3.6v at higher current, I dunno. With unprotected NCR18650B that might be OK, but with anything else… I’d probably go for much lower voltages. OTOH it’s probably fine. You’re probably shooting for “green when full, orange for the majority of the discharge, and red for the very end”, right? Those voltages sound OK for that to me. Plus blinking red for critical if you want.

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup WinkWinkWink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

comfychair
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Well it will still have the original STAR low voltage strategy I think, a warning blink (hmm, does the momentary version have that, or just the clicky version?) and then stepdown and eventually cutoff. The status LEDs will just be so you can look at any time and get some info about the battery state. The stock drivers only turn on the red LED when the battery is very very low, no info at all about what's going on until it's too late. What good is that?!

-----

Why a tiny FET instead of the big one? It works great as-is. If you want lower current, use an ICR instead of INR.

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Fair enough

comfychair
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There's plenty of room for everything, it looks worse than it is. Like I said there's even room for the programming clip with the LED wires still in place. The only tweak I do, which probably isn't necessary, is to trim off the corners of the switch bracket.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08737.jpg

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08738.jpg

 

For the copper spring plate, I clamp the copper to the plug and chop off the excess with tin snips, then smooth out with a file. The plug is already the same size as the disc needs to be.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08734.jpg

wight
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comfychair wrote:

Well it will still have the original STAR low voltage strategy I think, a warning blink (hmm, does the momentary version have that, or just the clicky version?) and then stepdown and eventually cutoff. The status LEDs will just be so you can look at any time and get some info about the battery state. The stock drivers only turn on the red LED when the battery is very very low, no info at all about what’s going on until it’s too late. What good is that?!

——-

Why a tiny FET instead of the big one? It works great as-is. If you want lower current, use an ICR instead of INR.

Yeah, that makes sense to me. It works better as a status indicator than any kind of warning. As you pointed out, the step down and flashing will handle that.

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup WinkWinkWink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

scottyhazzard
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“For the copper spring plate, I clamp the copper to the plug and chop off the excess with tin snips, then smooth out with a file. The plug is already the same size as the disc needs to be” -Comfychair.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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I don’t have an adjustable-voltage power supply, but I think I can still get the voltage levels by using a real battery and a DMM. I also have a small variety of cells to try, including 20R for maximum output and protected regular-amperage cells.

For the beacon, it may be feasible to blink green for > 3.3V and red for < 3.3V. Depends on how much power it costs to check the voltage, and how much code space is available.

wight
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I don’t have an adjustable-voltage power supply, but I think I can still get the voltage levels by using a real battery and a DMM. I also have a small variety of cells to try, including 20R for maximum output and protected regular-amperage cells.

For the beacon, it may be feasible to blink green for > 3.3V and red for < 3.3V. Depends on how much power it costs to check the voltage, and how much code space is available.

Provided that there is enough code space the battery voltage could be checked periodically (using a counter) rather than every time. Approximately once per hour might be sane to allow for ~15min of recovery. To get totally unnecessarily complicated you could do one check ~15min after the MCU goes to sleep using the counter and then set a flag and start doing the check ~daily until the light was turned on again, resetting the flag. Wow that’s a bunch of extra stuff for little benefit though..

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup WinkWinkWink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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I removed all the resistors on the stock driver second version. And I also added copper braid to the steel spring. This F6 heats up fast now. Gets very hot after just 15 seconds of running on high. I’m still using the stock XM-L2 led. The light definitely has greater output now but I have no way of measuring how much.

comfychair
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phsinvent wrote:
I removed all the resistors on the stock driver second version. And I also added copper braid to the steel spring. This F6 heats up fast now. Gets very hot after just 15 seconds of running on high. I'm still using the stock XM-L2 led. The light definitely has greater output now but I have no way of measuring how much.

The stock LED is on a cheap aluminum MCPCB, be careful. You've got a direct drive light with the LED not on copper. Risky.

comfychair
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http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/F6DDschematic.jpg

phsinvent
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comfychair wrote:

phsinvent wrote:
I removed all the resistors on the stock driver second version. And I also added copper braid to the steel spring. This F6 heats up fast now. Gets very hot after just 15 seconds of running on high. I’m still using the stock XM-L2 led. The light definitely has greater output now but I have no way of measuring how much.

The stock LED is on a cheap aluminum MCPCB, be careful. You’ve got a direct drive light with the LED not on copper. Risky.

Thanks for the advice. I will get an xml2 noctigon to install. The led remains much brighter than stock for about 1 min and then starts to really dim as the light gets very hot.

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comfychair wrote:

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/F6DDschematic.jpg


Nice!
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Nice indeed! Thank you. Now I just have to figure out which light to use this in.... (Dont own this particular light)

~ Ledsmoke ~

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comfychair
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Roche X3 should use the same driver (scroll down for the 'user pics') http://www.banggood.com/ROCHER-X3-CREE-L2-800-Lumen-White-Light-LED-Flas...

I don't think it has a window/lens for the status LEDs, but that can be added without huge drama.

scottyhazzard
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What about using clear fingernail polish or Norland that both cure with UV light and would be very clear?

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

comfychair
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It would probably work best with slightly diffused plastic, not perfectly clear. I'm sure there is something in the hobby world that would be exactly right.

If the right kind of plastic rod around the right size can't be found, an alternative would be something like clear Epoxy 330, sanded on the inside face to act as a diffuser.

comfychair
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/360884112895

Available in other sizes/styles (end glow = has an outer cover, side glow = nekkid along the whole length).

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Hmm… that might be useful for a totally different project I have in mind… Either that or electroluminescent wire. I still haven’t figured out how to make the thing though; I want it to light up at least a dozen wires quickly in a rotating sequence.

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How far is the the software for using the voltage indicator LEDs?

I got a yezl y3 today and the eswitch boot looks semitransparent so I thought that it might be cool to use a extra indicator led?

ToyKeeper
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I don’t have firmware working for the voltage indicator LEDs since I have no hardware to test on. My only flashable e-switch light is a SRK.

The Yezl Y3 might be a good host for this too, after adding the extra LEDs inside. I don’t have one of those, but have sometimes been tempted to get one or a HD2010 to mod as a thrower.

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comfychair wrote:

I only care about the voltage indicator window thing because the fancy replacement driver has the provision for two onboard LEDs, and with a easily reflashed controller and two LEDs you could make it do some very interesting things. Well, someone who understands how to code for these things could, though I am not that someone. I only do the nuts & bolts stuff.

http://75.65.123.78/RocheF6/Dsc08517.jpg


Where can I order this driver?
Now I tried to improvise something with Nanjg 105c and STAR Firmware by JonnyC but it took me too much room there and I can’t close the torch well.
I need a driver with a short press for on/off
comfychair
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https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KmRivSTO

http://www.digikey.com/short/77p2bz

I don't think anyone has done a dedicated direct on/off momentary firmware yet; Tom E came up with a hybrid of sorts that works like the normal short press/long press UI until the timer hits 15 seconds, then after that a short press turns off (or something like that). It's in the STAR firmware thread somewhere.

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Thanks comfychair!
I’ve ordered the board but I have the problem with “digikey” (Ship Rate: $120.00 for my country) Sad :~
Can you give me other place where to order the electronic parts?

comfychair
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No idea, but you can use that list to find equivalent parts from somewhere in EU. They don't have to be identical (except the attiny & AOD510), any SOD-323 Schottky diode will work, any 0805 10% X7R 10-25v ceramic cap will work, any 0805 1% resistors will work, etc.

You can also get everything but the FET, switch, indicator LEDs/resistors from a donor Nanjg 105C. The indicator LEDs are completely optional, it works just fine with the standard code whether they're present or not.

comfychair
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I believe, though I haven't tried it, that Helios designed the switch pads to also work with the stock switch from the stock F6 driver, if you want to reuse it instead of buying a new one.

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comfychair wrote:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KmRivSTO

http://www.digikey.com/short/77p2bz

I don’t think anyone has done a dedicated direct on/off momentary firmware yet; Tom E came up with a hybrid of sorts that works like the normal short press/long press UI until the timer hits 15 seconds, then after that a short press turns off (or something like that). It’s in the STAR firmware thread somewhere.

My new BLF dd_PIC drivers UI allows short press for on/short press again for off.

I could easily mod Heloi’s design to accept the needed PIC MCU (and remove the unneeded voltage divider resistors) if you’re interested in that.

You can see a video of the bad ass UI and read about the standard 17dd and 15dd in the thread here. I am out of town this weekend but if he will send me the files I can have a direct fit driver for the F6 ready to order as soon as Monday. If I have to start from scratch it will be a bit longer.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33927

I could also build the driver for you, test and ship it to you for about $25 USD.

Edit: really wish someone would atleast try one of these (and like I said if I could get any takers I’d be happy to make one direct fit for the F6 or anything else), I put a lot of time/work into designing, building and testing these things. Someone please start using them. The FW is much much more advanced that any modded version of STAR (but still extremely simple to operate). It’s disappointing no one’s even ordered a set yet… Sad

I’m not even pushing for someone to buy one from me, this is a dedicated open source project, just please someone install one in something!

Always remember SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14

 

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@Cereal_killer
I’ve already started to build the Heloi’s version, but your firmware is much better and I will buy one from you. I will contact you on PM because I can’t do it by myself.

@comfychair
Thanks!
I wanted to use the stock switch and the other parts from one Nanjg 105C, but can I use this FET:
http://kelco.rs/katalog/komponente.php?q=IRLR3103

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