Hi Guys
i have a ultra-fire A10B and a TANK007 TK566
i would like to upgrade both to XM-L
is it as simple as changing the leds or or is there more to it
cheers Barrie
I'm not personally familiar with those lights, but looking at the specs online, there's more to it. 
The tank007 one is meant to run off a single AA, at low power. You'll want to replace the driver with something having much more power, but there's no way a AA is putting out anything near the full power of a XM-L. Even a 14500 can't reliably provide that much power, and the light is undersized for that amount of heat as well. So you'll want to find a mid-powered driver and swap that in as well as the new emitter. If you put just the xm-l in, it would only be 20% brighter or so than stock, as it would be driven at a small fraction of its full power. You'll also need to pick whether you want to stick with AA-powered (needs a boost driver, much fewer options) or switch to 14500s (more brightness, better runtime).
The ultrafire is a much better xm-l swap, as the 18650 (if you get a good one - the trustire flames, or a name-brand premium cell) can provide the current needed to run the xm-l at full power. I'd suggest the 5-mode 2800ma board that has little stars to configure the modes - you can get it from KD, SB, or other places. You'll certainly want to swap the driver, as again, it'll only be 20% brighter if you don't, vs 300% (or so) brighter if you do. You'll need to be careful about heat dissipation, and make sure the design of the light can get the heat from the emitter to the body, as well as using proper thermal glue/paste on all joints.
--Bushytails
thanks
i should have said the TK566 is the 5 mode 2 AA spec one and is 14500 compatable
i run it with a extension tube and 3 NIMH AAs
as for drivers i cant get my head around them i would not know where to start
maybe time to try and see how i get on
it would be ideal if there was a XM-L pill i could just swap on these
Scruffy,
You can do a straight emitter swap without doing anything else. Output will go up slightly, and the beam will most likely be a lot floodier. There's nothing that says one has to run an emitter at max output to be enjoyable.
It really depends on what you're after with the mod...
right maybe it is time i had a go at these drivers
if i don't try i will never know
what drivers are best suited to these LEDs
just took the pills out for a look the leds are easy to do but i dont see the driver
are the driver inside the pill
EDIT - got the pill apart the driver was soldered to the pill
this does not look as hard as i thought (good)
i bought this light of DON i think he may have put a bit solder on to improve the connection
i would still appreciate advice what driver to buy
cheers Barrie
Hi Barrie
I'd swap the emitter first, keeping the driver in place. Just measure the size of the star that the emitter is sitting on and get an XM-L on that size of star. If you are lucky, the star will be a 20mm on the A10. Then unsolder the two wires to the star and solder the new one in. Even i can do this.....
If the driver dies - then it is time to look for a new driver. But I'd kill it before I bothered getting a new one. Driver swapping is a lot fiddlier than LED swapping.
Can't remember adding any solder to the A10 - extreme force in tightening it down worked for me. But i might just have added solder - can't remember now.
I agree with Match you can just swap the emitter with great results. Here are 2 threads I created that show exactly what you need to do.
If you have trouble prying the emitters off try freezing the pill then prying them off. If you have trouble getting the drivers off try using an exto knife and a little heat and prying.
Nanjg 105c drivers are perfect for this swap, Shiningbeam makes it easy with presoldered wires and mode selection already taken care of.
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-132/3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit-Board/Detail
If you get stuck post up and we will help.
Edit: I see you are not in the states so these drivers are more cost effective they have them in singles if you don't need 5.
thanks for the advice guys
E1320 thanks for the links
time to order some parts