I’d like to build an MT-G2 Maglite like DBCstm’s one in this thread (post 52):
I’ve already ordered the P7 drop-in (reflector & pill).
I intend to run it on 2x26650 IMR’s.
But I’ve no idea about what driver to run. I’ve read another thread with lots of results, but still none the wiser really.
I just want something that’ll work rather than a driver to mod.
Thanks.
You’ll run short of voltage with a 2S setup.
3S would be better i.m.o.
Mountain Electronics usually has zener diode modded drivers, though it looks like they’re out of stock right now. Not sure about shipping over the pond, either, but… http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/category&path=67
Dry Driver.
You could skip the driver and just go direct. Would be more efficient. Only issue I see is that you would not a lower mode to go down to if the light starts getting too hot.
If you want a driver, you can go already Comfy-style zener modded 105C. I think RMM sells them.
Will direct drive be ok on these? Don’t really fancy frying an MT-G2 on my first try. Dry driver sounds interesting, where can these be bought from?
Yes, direct drive is no problem if you put the emitter on copper (Noctigon). I have done it many times and many others have done it here on BLF. 2 Li-ions can not deliver high enough voltage to drive the emitter past mid 6 amp territory.
I believe CNQG sells the new Dry drivers.
I'm not sure if this was the thread you referred to in OP, if not there is lots of unmodded drivers here that work fine.
2 IMR cells can drive the MT-G2 around 12A in direct drive. 2 20Rs will do it, 2 Efest 35A’s will do it, 2 Sony C4’s will do it. A pair of Panasonic PF’s will run it around 9A or so.
Yes, you’ll need some serious heat sinking and it won’t be enough. I highly recommend using a driver so you can shift it down to avoid that heat. The Zener mod from RMM or see if there’s someone that can build you one over there to save you the shipping. The additional parts are cheap to add to an existing Qlite, stacking chips is fairly cheap as well. Easier to built an FET driver with the BLF board. I could build you one or several others here could as well, and I think Richard is going to be making some for sale as well. That would give you the benefit of direct drive with some modes to greatly improve your experience with such a light.
As an aside, I tested about 6 of the top cells wired directly to an XM-L2 on a Noctigon on top of a heat sink and these cells can all give over 6A, with a few making 7A if I recall correctly. I’ve got it written down here somewhere….
Edit: I used my 2DMagLight tonight for a little while, the Moli cells show 4.1V, they’re still giving 7.41A through the MagSwitch and a voltage monitor. The Efest IMR 26650 will give 8.4A or so in this light with the FET driver going through all the restrictions the MagLight has. 2 Sony C4 cells in my Solarforce M8 with the FET driver will allow ~12.18A.
EditII: With fresh charged Moli cells, it pulls 7.77A. The very long coiled up spring in the bottom of the stock switch that makes contact with the top of the cells has a lot of restriction in it. It appears to be a small flat coil but it’s not, it sits pretty deep in that metal cup housed in the plastic switch casing. The top of the switch that used to house the spring and bearing are cut off, with the voltage monitor sitting on top in a slice of pvc pipe that’s cut to act as a holder for it. So this light has some pretty good restriction left in it. The “drop-in” for the SSC P7 from Deal Extreme has a threaded lip at the top of the reflector that is too thick to allow the bezel to screw down properly. I used a rotary tool to trim this down and it was time consuming, but worked well. Just want you to know it’s not a simple drop-in modification. The tower part of the Mag switch will have to be cut off or down in order for the drop-in to fit inside the tube. Then the pill has to be direct wired to the switch. Not horribly complicated, but it does take some doing.
EditIII: Just in case you’ve never removed a Mag Switch, pinch the rubber boot and remove it with the switch in the “on” position. Then slide a T8 torx driver into the switch and loosen the set screw about 3 revs. The switch will then slide out the bottom.
You'll have plenty of voltage for the MT-G2 with two cells, don't worry! We can't quite get enough to drive an XM-L2 to the limit with a single cell, but the MT-G2 will hit over 11A with two good cells, which is more heat and current than most of us know what to do with. 3S with a high current buck driver will get you longer runtime, for sure, but you can get plenty of juice out of two cells to drive an MT-G2 hard.
I don't doubt one can achieve the high current draws some of you are reporting above with an idea set up and ideal cells, but even then, how long do the typical IMR cells sustain 12 amps? I'm talking average IMR's, not the top of the line cells that cost an arm and a leg and are brand new.
Thanks for your help.
I’ve already got a part modded 2D with the switch assey cut down. I t has a home made large aluminium heatsink in it and a cut down Mag reflector. Was using it with a 3A driver and an XM-L.
I’m ok’ish at modding, just as long as it’s not too fiddly and more often than not parts end up rather scruffy looking….
I am also looking for a driver for MT-G2 emitters but as I have been studying driver a bit and as I am not trying to make a blaster thrower, I am looking for more efficiency, less heat and run time and (I think it is called ramping) .
So do we have in the bowels of “oshpark” or other “secret” BLF dungeon a “current controlled, Buck with no (perceivable) PWN that has smooth ramping up and down? looking for 4+ to 6 amps at the emitter max range driven from 3S cells.
My understanding is that the “go to drivers” are liner or direct drive with a zener mods”.
I found this thread, I can almost follow it, but not really.
Any help?