Fenix TK61 teardown and mod thread

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RaceR86
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Fenix TK61 teardown and mod thread

Lets look at the light first.

In comparison with some other "monster lights"

BTU Shocker  - TK61 - OEM 12 XM-L light (largest multi-emitter head I know of)

In comparison with some budget throwers. (See comparison of popular BLF thrower favourites here. TK61 not included)

HD2010 - Big head COUROI - TK61 - ZYT08 - C8 (for size reference)

TK61 got moved one step to the left. See how tiny a ZY-T08 or C8 are beside it.  Big Smile

Some force is required to unscrew the bezel (very easy to unscrew with strap wrenches. Maybe not so with hand).

Then you can easily take out the massive plastic reflector.

Contact board can fairly easily be taken out with a screwdriver. And you get easy access to the resistor where the magic happens. If you for some reason want to take the driver out. You have to unscrew the retaining ring and solder off the wires to the mcpcb.

Close up top side.

Another top side shot:

 

Underside:

The centering/locating ring seems to be special designed for the reflector. Its not a 100% perfect fit though. There is a tiny bit of sideways movement in it. Which was the reason my emitter was not 100% perfectly centered. More like 97%? Its easy to get the focus right by loosening the bezel a little bit. Pressing on the glass lens on the correct place should get it centered. Then put pressure on the middle of the lens and screw the bezel tightly in place.

Reflector dimensions:

82mm inside reflector

86,7mm outside

Depth about 64-66mm

 

Pill was secured here with two screws. Thermal paste between body and pill.

Perfectly applied thermal paste. Pill is not that large.

6 mm tall

46,4mm diameter

2,62mm below mcpcb

Measured contact between the center part of the mcpcb (below the XM-L2) to the underside of the copper mcpcb. Should mean its direct thermal path as far as I know. Like a Noctigon and Sinkpad. Seems like its similar to Sinkpad 2 in design. The copper mcpcb is 2 mm thick and 43,6mm in diameter.

Underside feels a bit rough. I lapped mine a little bit (not pictured). Its one beefy and heavy mcpcb. Smile

 

Stock output:

Stock emitter current:

Low: 0,xx A

Medium:0,4 A

High : 1 A

Turbo: 3A

When input voltage is 8V, input amp is 1,6A on high. Emitter current 3A

When input voltage is 6V, input amp is 2,2A on high. Emitter current 3A

So this is nicely regulated down to 6V. What cells you use are pretty much irrelevant. 2,2A is divided on 2 cells. So you will not see more than 1,1amp drain from each of the four cells. Using high discharge cells are not important. Even after a little resistor mod.

The light cuts power when input is as low as 5,7-6v, so you can not use turbo or the higher modes depending on the voltage. At that point the cells should be considered empty anyway. The light will not cut off completely. The emitter sees power as long as input voltage is above 2,5v.

Here is my simple test setup btw.. 

Resistor mod:

I added one R030 on top of one of the R050. (no need to take the driver out of the light)

Output after R030 was added.

Low: 0,1 A

Medium:0,6 A

High : 1,8 A

Turbo: 4,7A

When input voltage is 8V, input amp is 2,8A on high. Emitter current 4,7A.


I added another R030. Do not do this.

Low: 0,2 A

Medium:0,9 A

High : 2,4 A

Turbo: 4,8A

When input voltage is 8V, input amp is 2,9A on high. Emitter current 4,8A.


Summary/observations with resistor mod:

Based on stock values vs resistor modded with R030. It seems like all modes increased with around 50%, including Turbo.

Trying to push peak output further by resistor modding is not beneficial as it will not increase turbo any noticeable amount higher. Only the lower modes.

Stock lux reading was about 171kcd@ 30sec ("calibrated" my meter after this light). After resistor mod and a minor tweak to the centering of the emitter I was looking at about 255kcd @30 sec from the stock domed emitter. Measured from 10 meter and calculated back to 1m.

A dedome should bring it up to around 500kcd @ 4,7A emitter current.


NEED MOAR AMPS!

IF YOU HAVE ANY GOOD TIPS ON HOW TO FURTHER INCREASE OUTPUT. PLEASE HELP. My electronic skills are very limited.

Its said vinh gets 5,75A at the emitter and about 600 kcd out of his de-domed TK61 mods. It was said he changes transistors too?

Either way, I want 6A+++ and Im willing to sacrifice the driver in order to get there. So if you can give me easy DIY electronics tips ill do the testing. Smile

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Edited by: RaceR86 on 05/24/2014 - 11:17
M4D M4X
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Verry nice pictures!

is it possible that you limited the Amps with your measuringsetup?

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

RaceR86
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M4D M4X wrote:
Verry nice pictures! is it possible that you limited the Amps with your measuringsetup?

Thanks. If anyone need to better see the writing on the components I have some other where its easier to read.

Not too long ago the power supply was used by a company working with electronics. My brother checked it too, and it was accurate according to a quick test (he works with electronics). I have not made proper wires for it. Although a potentially tiny bit of voltage sag does not really matter since the driver is properly regulated. (same output if you have everything between 6v to 8,4v input). 

The amp meter is accurate, and there is not much wires between LED and driver. All of which are oversized. And again.. Output is regulated.

Measured emitter amps also goes hand in hand with the rated output.

Anything surprising to you?? If anything is off, Id guess its more likely it was me who did not see correctly from the analog reading. Numbers are pretty much just like I expected them to be.

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ryansoh3
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Awesome, thanks a lot for the photos and info.

The Microchip MCU looks very programmable, anyone in for any ramping/customizable user modes?

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

Ongoing projects:

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ImA4Wheelr
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Nice tear down, testing and mod info. That light sure looks like it has lots of potential. That MCU looks like it’s probably right up tterev3’s alley.

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Nice light and teardown Smile Wonders why you said: “ I added another R030. Do not do this. “ >)

That Canadian flashlight guy Eh! -Den / DBSARlight

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i was just remembering that I (very often) can’t see the woods because of that many trees… Wink

did you measure the vf?

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

RaceR86
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ryansoh3 wrote:
Awesome, thanks a lot for the photos and info. The Microchip MCU looks very programmable, anyone in for any ramping/customizable user modes?

Beer

I just want more output.. 0:)  For a thrower of this size I dont need all the fancy ramping (DrJones awesomeness) that I would take on a more general use light. TK61 serves one purpose to me. Maximum throw. UI is not that imporant. When that is said. I actually think the TK61 UI is quite nice. Especially for this type of light. Its even got a nice momentary feature now. The only thing I miss is the ability to cycle backwards through the modes. I even love the crazy strobe. It changes frequency. Which looks awesome. Big Smile

All of my other throwers have more output then this light. And TK61 is the largest thrower that could easier shed off more heat. Even several of my smaller lights are driven harder than the R030 resistor modded TK61.

NEEDS MOARR POWAH! Big Smile

ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Nice tear down, testing and mod info. That light sure looks like it has lots of potential. That MCU looks like it's probably right up tterev3's alley.

When will you deliver HX-1175B with custom UI suited for electronic switches? Preferably two electronic switches.  0:)   Are these just dreams, or could they become real? You probably know what backup driver I have in hand for this light in case I don't get output as I want.

I think the light have potential of 700+ kcd. Im just at stage one now.

DenBarrettSAR wrote:
Nice light and teardown Smile Wonders why you said: " I added another R030. *Do not do this.* " >)

Because Turbo does not go higher. Only the lower modes. Basically you mess up mode spacing more, and low becomes higher without any increase in peak output. No purpose in doing it, unless you are into bad mode spacing.. Big Smile

Unless someone finds out how to make Turbo increase more. It seems like a single R030 is around the max limit of what is useful to add based on what I have seen so far.

M4D M4X wrote:
did you measure the vf?

Nope. But djozz have vF numbers here

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
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dazed1
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Great thread. One question.

I was told over 4/4.2A you risk alot with this driver. The transistor need to be replaced in order to get higher amps, or you risk alot….

Edit, i just saw you covered that part, my bad.

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

nofearek9
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nice tips for one of the best single emmiter lights !
why the mcpcb is “half circle” ?

antoninodattola
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http://www.anpec.com.tw/ashx_prod_file.ashx?prod_id=281&file_path=20090724163325315.pdf&original_name=APM2301CA.pdf

 

These should be the transistors that mounts the TK61 (C01C) 

As you can see, the current is continuous DRAIN 

3 A ~, 

 

(I was studying modding, before you buy the flashlight, with more pictures!) 

 

You could try to change them, the impression is SOT-23-3

 

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strong collection of lights , and very good review. TK61 looks similar to me but i cant find to what…

some of my actual experiments and reviews:
UF-T20 review and mod —->http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30186#node-30186
My EBRZM, over 1 million cd thrower—-> http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30274#node-30274
Ervin’s try (2nd. Annual BLF Scratch Made L

MRsDNF
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Nice effort on the strip down, mod and report. You know what I believe you should do with this light so I will shut up. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure. Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unkowingly paid for by a hard working wife. Free plug for my daughter. http://missymupsnails.com.au

old4570 "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions."

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

RaceR86
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nofearek9 wrote:
why the mcpcb is "half circle" ?

Dont know. Ask Fenix. 

Not a big deal though. Its still got way way larger contact path compared to say a 20mm Noctigon.

 

antoninodattola wrote:

http://www.anpec.com.tw/ashx_prod_file.ashx?prod_id=281&file_path=20090724163325315.pdf&original_name=APM2301CA.pdf

 

These should be the transistors that mounts the TK61 (C01C) 

As you can see, the current is continuous DRAIN 

3 A ~, 

 

(I was studying modding, before you buy the flashlight, with more pictures!) 

 

You could try to change them, the impression is SOT-23-3

 

 

Sorry, most of the info in the datasheet is beyond my understanding of small electronics.  I should replace all (?) the C01C with what? Link for suitable replacement part?

I named some of the components on the backside too in case they were hard to see.

So its one C01C on the backside and three on top-side. (Top-side is towards the battery carrier.)

Its two C00C on the top-side, and one on the backside.

 

MRsDNF wrote:

Nice effort on the strip down, mod and report. You know what I believe you should do with this light so I will shut up. Smile

MT-G2?

Send it to you?

Big Smile

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

ImA4Wheelr
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This is just a hunch based on working with other drivers and not based on electrical expertise or anything else reliable. So please don’t act on it with out reliable confirmation, unless you feel like risking the driver. It appears that Q1 – Q4 on the side with the voltage sense resistors are the ones to replace. Hard to tell though with all those traces going all over the place. My understanding is that you are looking for the FETs that connect directly to the LED feed pads. Looks like you have 2 for positive and 2 for negative, but it’s hard to tell with all the traces going under component and such in those pictures.

EDIT: Looking closer, it looks like Q1 – Q3 feed the postive LED pad via the inductor. Also looks like Q5 & Q6 my by feeding the positive LED pad too, but can’t see the via’s due to inductor blocking the view. There is lot of stuff going on in that driver.

antoninodattola
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Maybe this would work well:

http://it.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/SI2323DDS-T1-GE3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi8xiIxtqdgOJKuPl%252bnjZKvw%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/si2323dds-254119.pdf

I'm not sure, it could be that it was designed 

Network with pull-up + pull-down? 

some N channel MOSFET should be ... 

 

Why do not you try to test them with a multimeter to see if they are P-Channel 

or N-Channel? 

 

No video here, you should understand that! 

I unfortunately do not! Wink

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gloikp9t2dA

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Hmmm, I am kind of a disappointed with plastic reflector and all that plastic that holds the switches, pill also looks wonky Sad

 

dazed1
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Sirius9 wrote:
Hmmm, I am kind of a disappointed with plastic reflector and all that plastic that holds the switches, pill also looks wonky Sad

Plastic reflector is more then fine, it helps with the weight and i guess a bit with the cost Smile

Doesn’t seems to affect the performance at all.

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

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Yes, but for this premium-priced light you would expect that fenix would put a bit more effort and made machined aluminium reflector.
Maybe I just expect/dreamed too much, because this light is on my “want it so bad” list :/

 

dazed1
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Even the RC40 has plastic reflector i think….

I got the TK61, the feel in hand is amazing, the buttons you mention, are the best i ever felt on any flashlight, the feedback is great. One thing i think Fenix focused more is the driver quality.

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

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antoninodattola, you got a PM.

I don't mind the plastic reflector. As long as it works great and is well built. Lower weight, and no worry of short circuits if you have to replace with smaller mcpcb.

Would be nice to have a bit more mass below the mcpcb. But at the stock 3A current, I doubt it would matter. Only add more weight and cost.

On the stock light I would like to see 4,5A on Turbo and an easy resistor mod to 7A.  0:)

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chenko
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Wow, I think 4,7A is more than enough over-drive to be amazed, toghether with de-doming.
I’m very tempted to mess with my TK61, but I don’t have a clue on where to get a R030 resistor, nor how to “stack” it on top of the R050 one (seems just a blob of solder tho, looking at pic).

RaceR86
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Its quite impressive at 4,7A.

But Im already used to a ZY-T08 thats pushing 6,4A with constant current to a de-domed emitter. Its not a huge difference between the lights, and the ZY-T08 is much smaller. I want my TK61 to be a good step up. Im sure 4,7A + dedome is impressive, but I would know that there is still more potential in the light itself..

If the goal is only (4,7A and) 500kcd I would probably have bought TN32 instead. Seems easy to get more power out of it. TK61 seems to have more potential though. Smile

You can probably find R030 from Ebay in the correct size.

Or just use three of these smaller R100 resistors from Fasttech. ( They are the same as one R033 when you stack 3 of them). They come in handy on many mods.

The resistor mod is a 5-10 minute job.

I have not done any long term reliability testing on the light though. Except some indoor test on high until the light got uncomfortable hot.

I have contacted Fenix. They do not sell replacement drivers. So if someone screw it up. Then no more TK61 driver....

I might rebuild the light to use a HX-1175B driver that can push out around 7A or whatever I want it to do. It uses a classic mechanical switch, so its not a direct swap. If I go for that driver I might consider a better pill too. I would loose the UI and button features of the stock light. But I think that would be forgotten once I see the throw. Big Smile

Oh well... That is my backup solution at the moment. I did not buy this light for it to only push out 4,7A.  J)

I have to focus on the scratch build competition now though. This time of year is really bright here too. So I don't really need a sick thrower now. In 2-4 months I might aim for 700+kcd. Ill see if anyone (or myself with help) figures out something smart to do with the stock driver first and take things from there.

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RaceR86 wrote:
But Im already used to a ZY-T08 thats pushing 6,4A with constant current to a de-domed emitter. Its not a huge difference between the lights, and the ZY-T08 is much smaller. I want my TK61 to be a good step up. Im sure 4,7A + dedome is impressive, but I would know that there is still more potential in the light itself..

In 2015 chinese will be sweating bullets to please us Big Smile

 

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Deleted original comment as too far off topic.

When my HX-1175b’s arrive, I will figure out how to piggy back a 105c and pull the MCU from the HX-1175b. The same connection should be easy to do with your driver here too (Your stock driver controlling the HX-1175b). You would only need to connect battery positive, battery negative, and then the PWM out from your current MCU. Hopefully, the HX-1175b won’t pull power when no PWM is feed to it.

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Anglo-centric, or Euro-centric, or Western-centric, or American-centric?

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So how does it throw compared to those other big heads you have?
Fenix reckon 824m, are their distance measurements more accurate than general Chinese lumens measurements?
Thanks
Anton

Hi, my name is Anton, and I’m addicted to flashlights.

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Flitsmal wrote:
So how does it throw compared to those other big heads you have? 

As seen in my last thrower beamshots comparison thread all my other big heads are modified and far better throwers than stock.

Compared to a pretty much maxed out HD2010 with domed emitters its in a different league when it comes to throw. For the TK61 to be throw as good as a my hot-rodded ZY-T08 with a harder driven de-domed emitter is quite impressive. Im looking forward to see the true potential of the TK61. Smile

Flitsmal wrote:

Fenix reckon 824m, are their distance measurements more accurate than general Chinese lumens measurements? Thanks Anton

Their throw distanse are based upon lux (kcd/cd) numbers. Fenix use ANSI standard. Id say Fenix numbers are as close to benchmark numbers as you get them.

How that compares to Chinese measurements? Cant even remember that I have seen any lux numbers on the budget lights I have bought. And If I had seen any numbers. They would probably be as overrated, worthless and all over the place like their lumen numbers on most budget lights. Big Smile

How does 824 meters of throw translate to real life? Well, if the air conditions are perfect and you light up a white house or something, then its barely possible to see that the light hits it. If you try to light up dark mountains/landscape, you are not going to see much at 700++ meters.

What I consider usable throw length will always be lower than the paper numbers. I would say throw length in meters are based on barely lighting up something in perfect conditions.

A 1000lumen light with 170kcd/824meters throw I would say is good for around 150-700 meters depending on how much light you need and what you are going to light up.


RMM have already (before this thread started) been working on the TK61 driver circuit, and he is not done yet. Ill wait and see what he is able to do with it. I have offered my TK61 driver circuit as a "backup" in case he wants to experiment on it.

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Good luck with the new driver…
Soon you will be lighting up a whole mountain from 1 km away!! Big Smile
So this light has to be one of the best stock single emitter throwers around?
Cheers
Anton

Hi, my name is Anton, and I’m addicted to flashlights.

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Yes, one of the best. Probably the best if you are considering throw vs runtime.

TN32 is a very nice option too. Maybe better stock depending on what you are looking for.  Its got more power/output. I would highly recommend you to check out that light too.

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RaceR86 wrote:

Yes, one of the best. Probably the best if you are considering throw vs runtime.

TN32 is a very nice option too. Maybe better stock depending on what you are looking for.  Its got more power/output. I would highly recommend you to check out that light too.

Thanks RaceR86! Although those are awesome lights, I don’t think I will ever buy one, as my budget max is around $50 per light!(At the moment… Big Smile )
I do however like to keep track of what lights are best/close to best, and then see what budget options are available to compete(well, almost compete)with those lights. I am very happy with my srk,zyt08 and even Yezl Y3!
Cheers
Anton

Hi, my name is Anton, and I’m addicted to flashlights.

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