It smoked the emitter somehow after i took it apart and cleaned all the threads and added thermal compound to the pills threads and sinked it better with aluminum. It happened when i installed all 4 AA NiMH cells and i heard a crunch and the smell of magic blue smoke we all love while i was tightening down the tailcap. My only guess something shorted out or the driver board cracked and pushed too much power to the emitter.And possibly i should have had the switch in the OFF position while screwing the cap down. But thats not the point now.
The pill is an oddish size and larger than a P60 drop-in. So to make my life easy i ordered a few P60's to disassemble and make fit. Im good at modding and making this fit so im not too worried. I actually dont have any way to measure the size of the boards, But they are at least 5mm larger than a p60 sized board.
I bought this to make the fix with:
SOLLCXPG5 CREE XP-G R5 LED $17.99
Module Features an Aluminum Smooth Reflector
Input Voltage: 4.2V - 8.4V
Features Three Brightness Levels: 350 lumens,210 Lumens,50 Lumens with Strobe and SOS modes
First question is, What is the best way to take apart the emitter if its glued down? I think the driver board should be simple.
Second, I want to try out an XM-L emitter in this light also and in my SF L2r which would require a 8.4v input so i can run 2x 14500. But ive not found any 8.4v p60 drop-in's or 8.4v separate driver and XM-L emitter combo's.
Is there a reason you don't see XM-L setups at 8.4v? Can you point me to any XM-L parts that will run those volts as an input with one in a P60 setup and a set of seperate driver and emitter for the Small Sun?
I do have thermal compound and thermal adhesive on the way so its done right. Plus all the skills to solder and such.
[quote]
I want to try out an XM-L emitter in this light also and in my SF L2r which would require a 8.4v input so i can run 2x 14500. But ive not found any 8.4v p60 drop-in’s or 8.4v separate driver and XM-L emitter combo’s.
Is there a reason you don’t see XM-L setups at 8.4v? Can you point me to any XM-L parts that will run those volts as an input with one in a P60 setup and a set of separate driver and emitter for the Small Sun?[/Quote]
Am i making no sense? I thought someone would have an idea on if its possible to run a light at 8.4v with a XM-L emitter. I know they have them in lights for sale, But ive just not seen P60's like that for sale.
BTW on the zy-a21-cree-q3 I was able to stuff the brass body of the CREE XP-G R5 P60 into the old pill with alot of dremel work so that way i didnt have to disassemble anything. The original was much higher than 180 lumens as the new one rated at 350 lumens doesn't seem much brighter.
Does anyone know of a list of driver and emitters that are recommended combo's.
Also where in the heck is the quote button? Im always wanting to put something in quotes while im making a post and i cant find any button so i manually have to type them on.
Ive seen that button, But it just lets you quote a post above you. Id like to sometimes add quotes from somewhere else and besides remembering HTML code for the quote im stuck on that.
Thanks for the links, That gives me hope. I still wanna fine some 8.4v XM-L drop-ins and some driver and emitter combos that are bare so i can put them in what ever pill i want.
Ive actually started buying drop-ins ahead of time to have on hand, Id like to do the same with drivers and emitters so i can play without worry of having a broken light for 1-4 weeks waiting on parts for a repair.
I do have an emitter question, Are they all set to run at the same voltage? Mainly Cree emitters anyhow as thats all ill be using. I know i need to match the input voltage on the driver, Im just not sure if i have to match the drivers output to the emitter input.
The output current is what you need to match, not the voltage. All white LEDs have roughly similar voltages, but the current varies widely, with an xm-l liking about 3000ma for full power.
i also have this light. the original driver is just a direct drive with modes. so with 4AAnimh i measured 4.6V output, that and the hollow pill are probably what made the led smoked.
the original lens and reflector are plastic. if u wanna run XML in it, u might wanna order a glass lens and metal reflector. i think this is gonna fit in this light.
Just hit the quote button on the post you want to quote, then copy all the text. Then start writing a reply post in the other thread (or anywhere you are replying) so that it appears.
Or you can just make up random quotes... by typing the quote code
Start with a [ quote=Random ]
Finish with a [ /quote ]
(but without any spaces between the square brackets)
The light does have bad thermal dissipation the way its set up, I did add some sheet aluminum that contacts the P60 drop in also as it seats into the lights body. But as you said the reflector is useless in any heat dissipation. Ill order that reflector and give it a try. It threads into the body ALOT more than the original pill does, But ill have to hollow it out and thread the P60 base into it. Or as a last resort take the emitter off the P60 base and put it on the new pill so i don't have to hollow out the whole thing.
The light could stand a bit wider beam as it is more of a thrower with the original reflector.
Thanks for the quote info, It should be adaquate at this point so i dont have to memorize html each time i was to add a quote in a post.