MAXTOCH SN6X - 2X SHOOTER ( 2 x 18650 XM-L Thrower )

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
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For review I have the MAXTOCH SN6X - 2X SHOOTER
If your interested in buying one , go here .
The MAXTOCH website is being redesigned ATM , hopefully back soon !






Quite a while back I got the opportunity to get my hands on the OEM SN6X ( original review ) and I was seriously impressed by the power of this flashlight as well the build quality. I am glad to report that nothing has changed and if anything the SN6X has only improved .

Manufacturer Posted Specifications:

Item Type: Flashlight
Lumen: 1300
Charger: Rechargeable
Brand Name: MAXTOCH
Body Material: Aluminum
Light Source: LED Bulbs
Zoom: No
Wattage: 10
Battery Type: Lithium Ion
Certification: CE
Waterproof: Yes
Lighting Distance: 500 meters
Support Dimmer: 2-4 files
Function: Shock Resistant
Body Color: Black
Flashlight Type: hunting
Model Number: 2X
Model of LED Beads: XM-L2 U2
LED Type: CREE XM-L2 U2
Max output: 1300LM
Modes: Max-Mid-Min / One-twist Strobe
Size: L 252 mm (9.92'') *D 68 mm (2.67'')
Reflector: Smooth Reflector for focused beam
Waterproof: IPX7
Battery: 2PC 18650 Li-ion battery
Lighting Period (h): 1.5
Features: XM-L2 U2 LED, AR Lens, Copper LED Base
Warranty: 1 year




As with the original SN6X the light is built in 4 major parts ( the body tube looks to be 2 parts from looking inside and seeing a join line ) and from the design of the head , mods or future upgrades ( emitter ) should be relatively easy .





Now I have to admit to being really impressed . The build quality is simply excellent , I love the 3 modes with strobe being a hidden mode . The light starts on high , then medium and low with strobe being available if you twist the head ( loosen it ) . The clicky is the forward variety , so a half press turns the light on ( momentary ) and allows you to chose the mode .

This light is a thrower , and if the original impressed then this latest version is going to blow you away . The original SN6X gave the following results : ( Throw )

High - 51000Lux @ 1M [ Wowsa !! ] Looks like it will be a real nice thrower ... Medium - 21000Lux Low - 5400Lux


Now back then ( 12/29/2011 ) 51000 Lux from a XM-L was rather impressive , so are you ready for what the new model can do ?

88000Lux @ 1meter on high ( 2.2A or 16watts )
21500Lux @ 1 meter on medium ( 1.1A )
8400Lux @ 1 meter on low ( 0.4A )

Results are from freshly charged batteries ,

That is an increase of 37000Lux for the new SN6X - 2X from the original model .

SN6X-2X - 88000Lux @ 1 meter - 4400Lux @ 5 meters - 700Lux @ 10 meters
SN6X - 51000Lux @ 1 meter - 1900Lux @ 5 meters ( old one )
Trustfire X9 - 30000Lux @ 1 meter - 700Lux @ 5 meters
SmallSun ZY T08 - 45000Lux @ 1 meter - 700Lux @ 5 meters

My Light Box just cant take the large head on the SN6X - 2X , and a fair bit of light was blocked , so these readings are seriously conservative . ( Lumens )

High = 970Lumen , Medium = 400Lumen , Low = 160Lumen .

There was a fair amount of blockage , so the Manufacturers claim of 1300Lumen Max output could be very close to actual capability especially if utilizing high performance batteries ( I'm using average batteries ) . I don't have any matching High Performance batteries so taking into account that I'm using matching Average performing batteries , well , it means the SN6X - 2X is one serious flashlight , and it leaves the possibility of even a higher performance capability .

Last Word :

Really good build quality , seriously good ( Nothing to complain about )
3 Modes = High , Med , Low , in that order with no mode memory
Strobe is a hidden mode = Twist head to activate
Forward Clicky = Very nice , solid and mechanical - Not mushy at all .
Modes are well spaced out ( would love to see a 4 mode = No strobe , with a Moon mode - 0.1A to 0.05A there abouts )
Very nice Lanyard ( Quality product )
Spare Orings and Tail clicky
Came in a small nylon case ( like in a shaving kit = protects your SN6X - 2X when not used )
Thrower = Wowsa ! its that and more .
PWM = Med and Low , a little on the slow side .
O rings = Very nice fit
Threads = Well Cut



I have nothing negative to say , I had zero issues with this light . It works , it delivers fantastic performance , build quality is very high , and I cant say enough good things about the SN6X - 2X . The original SN6X over the last few years has been a solid performer with no issues what so ever , and I see no reason this new version wont be just as good .
I have to give the SN6X - 2X 10 out of 10

Beam Shots :

ASAP : Its raining , its pouring , the H2O content is too high ATM and I don't want to take expensive cameras out in the rain .


Its as cloudy as it can be , its been really wet , and there was a break in the weather .
Photo was taken with my Nikon D3200 and I must say it was a little disappointing , the camera just could not deal with the dark ( would not focus ) . The light really throws , and the picture just does not do it justice . ( To much reflected light from the city lights )
Those poles are about 25 meters apart , and they are all well lit up .

Just wish I could have got a better picture , but with all the ambient light and the clouds reflecting the light back to earth and the camera not wanting to focus it really wasn't on the cards .

Check out the throw results ( Lux ) and you will see this light is a serious thrower . I think I'm going to wait for better weather and try another beamshot with a different camera .

I would like to thank MAXTOCH for the opportunity to review the SN6X - 2X SHOOTER .

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Thank you for the review :-)

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Thanks for the review, nicely done.

But on high it produces 970 lumens at 2.2 amps? That sounds a little… magical.
Or perhaps the driver is pulling 4.4 amps, and 2.2 was the reading at the tail cap? Looks like your batteries weren’t fully charged.

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I dont know what to say ?

8.? Volts x 2.2A = 16watts ( conservative )

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Thanks old4570. One day I may own a light like this. I'm not sure on the no mode memory though.

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You mean 2.2A is the tail reading? That would translate to about 4.4A to the LED. :open_mouth:

But something strange here: some people have modded HD2010/T08 with 4.5A current draw without dedoming their XM-L2 LED, gives around 90kcd already. But this SN6X with better quality and larger reflector produces “only” 88kcd?

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Variables !

Light meter variables ..

Time of day , ambient light , batteries , temperature , variation from one meter to the other and so forth ...

Butt seriously ? ( only 88000Lux )

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Ya could be variables, but don’t get me wrong, it is surely a light that throws a long way and I believe it is a much higher quality light compare to HD2010 and T08.

So is it around 4.4A to the LED? If it is I think by simply dedoming the LED will make it enter the 200kcd realm. :slight_smile:

And did I forget to say thank you for the great review? :smiley:

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I added r100 resistor on top r056, replace the wires with 22 AWG Highly Flexible Silicone Copper Wire from intl-outdoor, and replace the spring on driver with the stronger one, and dedome the led and added copper disk below the led star. Amp. readings went from 2.2 to 4.5 at the tail, in series that would be from 4.4 to 9 amp. >) .I’ve tested it on hi for about 15 min. and it gets hot, but both driver and led are still alive.

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Thanks for the review OL4570.

Its common for most cameras to have trouble focusing at distant things in the dark. I sometimes use one or two very bright lights to get it to focus (2000-10000 lumen does the trick, or one or two silly bright throwers at the same spot). Once its focused, then change to manual focus on the lens.. Then I take a picture and see that the focus is right by zooming in on the picture. Then you can can take as many sharp beamshots as you want. As long as the camera stands still.

If you only use one focus point (center), point it towards something with good contrast if possible. That will make it much easier for the autofocus. If you use all focus points activated then its easier to get it to focus, but then you risk that its focusing in the wrong place. So it might need some tweaking.

Or just use manual focus from the start. This may not be that easy on cheap kit lenses that does not show focus distanse. But everything is possible with a little bit of trial and error.

As for people who think they can just take tailcap readings in lights like this and double them to get emitter amps.. Sorry but it does not work that way. Especially when talking about 4-5A+++ to the emitter. The higher the assumed emitter current are, the further off you usually are. Here is why.

Measure emitter current at the emitter in lights with a buck driver if you really want to know what it is.

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People didn’t say that that was emiter apms. I mesured emiter amps. to and they were just above 6 amp.

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[quote=gorky] People didn't say that that was emiter apms. I mesured emiter amps. to and they were just above 6 amp. [/quote]

Many people assume that you can just double tailcap amps when having two cells and a buck driver to get emitter amps. Judging by your post where you just double numbers (quoted below) Im not sure why you are talking about 9 amps when you are measuring 4,5A at the tail and 6A at the emitter.

[quote=gorky] Amp. readings went from 2.2 to 4.5 at the tail, in series that would be from 4.4 to 9 amp. >) . [/quote]

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The D3200 is a good daytime camera .. ( never used it in the dark before )

Issues were its inability to focus in the dark , I had another flashlight that I used to light up my brother ( he was holding the SHOOTER ) and the camera simply refuse to focus , even when he was lit up .. 2nd problem was the rear screen , in the dark the information screen popped up ( displayed ) because it was dark , the camera would not focus ? For what ever reason it was shinning in my eye as I tried to look though the camera ..

The picture posted was manual focus , the kit lens is course with its focus adjustment , so I had to focus on my brother , and as a result my brother is in focus and the further away you get from him the more out of focus the image is .

I have other cameras , but Im trying to justify owning the D3200 , and it just does not seem to be making it .