small review of KX-T21 (COFLY) from geekbuying.com

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
1

KX-T21 is the flashlight I won from Geekbuying Second Anniversary Giveaway

specs from geekbuying.com

•Power by CREE XM-L2 LED, Cree’s new highest performing LED ever
•Quality Aluminium Alloy Construction
•5 Modes for different situation use
•Extension Tube Bundle make it more handy
•Support to charge directly with the 18650 batteries inside
•IPx7 Waterproof

Specification
Brand: COFLY
Model: KX-T21
Color: Dark Grey
Material: Aluminum alloy
Emitter Brand: Cree
LED Type: XM-L2
Emitter BIN: T6
Number of Emitters: 1
Working Voltage: 3.7~8.4V
Power Supply: 2*18650 (Not included)
Current: 2.5A
Theoretical Luminous: 1200 lumens
Runtime: 3 Hours
Number of Modes: 5
Mode Arrangement: Hi/Mid/Low/Fast Strobe/SOS
Mode Memory: No
Switch Type: Reverse clicky/Clicky Switch
Switch Location: Tailcap
Lens: Glass
Reflector: Aluminum Smooth
Beam Range: 300cm
Dimensions: 22.8cm x 3.7cm x 3.7cm
Weight: 210 g


their shipping was fast around 2-3 weeks
arrived well packaged in a box with a lot of bubble wrap






size compared vs ultrafire F13


the flashglight can be used with single or 2x 18650s


glass lens with GITD o-ring



reflector compared vs P60 reflector




the pill has a bit strange shape ,it has 20mm star and 17mm driver.



the driver ,it has 24awg wires.




this flashlight has an option to charge it ,this work by having 2 pills ,this is the second pill which has the connection for the charger
unfortunately I don’t have a charger to test it ,but the idea is when you unscrew it to reveal the area for the charger ,inside it create space between the normal pill and this one ,so the power from charger goes only in the batteries area.




the tailswitch


cause it don’t tailstand I added an o ring (still is not perfect but now it stands ok)


ceiling test with high


O-rings and threads are greased and it has a nice smooth screwing

the only 2 thing I didn’t like is the old xml version , and that it don’t tailstand but both can fixed very easy

the flashlight has a really nice color
easy to mod .
from the results I got I assume the driver is H 100% M 50% L 25% ,with 2 batteries I got 1.4 Amps in tail on high
have in mind my Amp meter is not that good and I did not had 2 same batteries for current testing

2

Amazing! I never thought a flashlight can be written such a detailed review. Thanks!!! Even though we are not professional in flashlight, we will try our best to serve you guys. Any questions, feel free to contact me. :slight_smile:

3

thanks , updated with the rest photos.

4

Thank you for the review :-)

5

you are welcome .
Added a close up photo of the switch.

.edit.
about the driver http://s2.postimg.org/lowm3b9m1/driver.jpg
anyone seen a similar .any ideas how to mod it?

6

The driver looks like it’s the same as one of the ones that I bought from Lightmalls:

EDIT: nofearek9 - If you can, could you measure tailcap current with this light and post it?

EDIT 2: NVM, I noticed you said:

7

thanks ,so i gues 2x batteries if i get around 1.4 maybe its the 3amps driver.

8

i retested today the tailcap readings ,used 2 set of batteries one was aw imr and 20R samsung and the other 2 notebook batteries, i got from both 1amp on high 0.5 on med and 0.25 on low
have in mind now i have moded the flashlight with xpg2 on copper pcb

9

Hi,

Thanks. Can you check one more thing? If you have a chance, would it be possible to get a picture of the driver showing the area around where the red/positive emitter lead and the toroid leg are, where the picture also shows the orientation of the HX-1163C labelling? See my post at Anyone worked with either of these drivers from Lightmalls? to see what I’m looking for.

Basically what I’m trying to find out is:

If you hold the driver board so that the HX-1163C labelling is at the top and upside-down, and then look at the pad where the toroid leg and the red wire go into the driver, which of those (the toroid leg or the red wire) is going into the hole/pad on the left, and which is going into the hole/pad on the right?

Thanks again,
Jim

P.S. Do you, by chance, have a way to measure emitter current, either with a clamp meter or maybe putting a meter in series with the emitter? I understand that the answer will probably be “no” if you don’t have a clamp meter…

EDIT:

EDIT 2: Any possibility you can measure emitter voltage?

EDIT 3: Sorry for all the edits (and question), but would it be possible to move the coil like in this pic and see what the value printed on that chip that has “R200” on it in my pic:

10



Vs R120 in this driver

about the measuring the current on the led ,i dont think i will manage to do it sorry

about your first request i edited 2 of your images,hope this is what you are asking.

http://s27.postimg.org/50f8lcscj/02_driver.jpg
http://s27.postimg.org/5r7yr4upv/03_driver.jpg