Soldering wires to a star, a little differently? - Video

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Old-Lumens
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Soldering wires to a star, a little differently? - Video

 

Just a short? video on a different approach to soldering wires to a star. The problem is flat reflectors like the HD2010 and many others. It is usually a problem in many thrower lights.  When you use thicker wires, then there are issues with the reflector hitting the wires, or not being able to get the reflector down far enough, to focus the led.   Hopefully, this video shows a solution that most modders can do, if they think it's worthwhile. Some of you may already do this. There's nothing new about modding, from what I have found. Usually someone else is already doing it, but I haven't seen a video on it.

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Slewflash
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Hah, wow that’s pretty smart. I’ve never thought about doing it like that. Nice job OL

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Old-Lumens
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You just have to use Very little solder on the wire, so that it doesn't migrate and touch the side of the star. It needs a really fine point iron tip. With the insulation flush like that, it keeps the solder joint restricted and helps to avoid having a short to the star.

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I do my reflector interference lights differently, I use a bit of nickel banding (like for battery packs) soldered to the pads, have that extend out past the reflector base, solder a wire to that and then put a piece of shrink tube over the whole thing.

Next time I do one that way (or have my SR51 open) I’ll take pic’s showing that method. This way is how I use to do it before I got the tiny shrink tube needed and started using the band method…

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ryansoh3
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Sweet, thanks for sharing.

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Pulsar13
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You’ve got a steady hand for a supposedly old guy Smile . I like this method but I don’t think I can pull it off. Guaranteed shorts and many a cusses.

Maybe if I lay off coffee for a few month… but I can’t pull that off either. :bigsmile:

But thanks for the video. It’s a very nice technique.

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Pulsar13 wrote:
You've got a steady hand for a supposedly old guy Smile
Some days I don't shake, some days I can't hold the iron still with two hands. I try to pick the steady days for videos.Wink

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BShanahan14rulz
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Thanks for sharing! I’ve taken some solid core copper wire and hammered it out before, but it looked a mess. It did the job, but if you thought regular wire insulation recedes a lot when heated, wait until you’ve hammered part of the insulation thin too, and watch your uninsulated end of wire magically double in length!

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May be easier to just use solder braid, but, like the flattened wire idea. Tin wire, flatten, then bend where only original insulation may touch the star. The wire butt soldered may break away as me clumsy so would be nice to keep the wire in one piece and flattened on end.

Thanks for video!

wight
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Good work and good video OL. Thanks. Unlike the nickel banding or copper braid, your sheet copper is unlikely to shift around once the light is assembled. (so no need to glue it in place, that seems like a big advantage)

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
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a very good idea, thanks for the video, going to use this method some day!

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Neat trick !

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I don't really have the bandwidth to watch many videos.  From what I gather of the comments, it sounds like you are flattening a thick wire (tin, flatten, bend).  Great idea.  Will definitely need to try to keep that idea in mind.

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Great video!

Old-Lumens
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

I don't really have the bandwidth to watch many videos.  From what I gather of the comments, it sounds like you are flattening a thick wire (tin, flatten, bend).  Great idea.  Will definitely need to try to keep that idea in mind.

I am using a small piece of flat copper sheet stock about .012" thick and butting the wire up against it, so that only the thickness of the sheet is on top of the star.

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So after being skeptical this was any better than my nickel band method I went ahead and tried this on my EagleEye X6 yesterday night and it worked great. Its sort of different methods for different applications, not really competing methods to do the same thing, this way wouldn’t work if the holes in the HS wern’t spaced ~16-20mm apart but in lights like that of works great.

Thanks for the new technique O-L!

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Wonderful, just wonderful.

 I think you've mentioned it before, but now it makes more sense with the video.

I am going to try it as well.

Thanks.

Gurthang
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Thanks OL, very instructive. I’ve used copper tabs for some time, tinning all the joints in advance really speeds up the process and avoids overheating the LED or driver components.

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Great solution of an annoying problem.

jcs0001
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Thanks for taking the time to show this.

John.

unknown00101
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Where would you acquire a thin sheet of copper from?

ImA4Wheelr
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O-L wrote:

I am using a small piece of flat copper sheet stock about .012" thick and butting the wire up against it, so that only the thickness of the sheet is on top of the star.

Ah, very good idea.  Thank you.

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unknown00101 wrote:
Where would you acquire a thin sheet of copper from?

http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=28Ga+copper+sheet&isNewKw=1&_pgn=1&epp...

I was logged in when I searched so it may not work for you, just type “xxGa copper sheet” in eBay in whatever gauge you need.

Edit: I always buy my raw material’s (such as copper sheeting/rounds) from Etsy

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Cereal_killer wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:
Where would you acquire a thin sheet of copper from?
http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=28Ga+copper+sheet&isNewKw=1&_pgn=1&epp... I was logged in when I searched so it may not work for you, just type "xxGa copper sheet" in eBay in whatever gauge you need. Edit: I always buy my raw material's (such as copper sheeting/rounds) from Etsy
+1 Etsy is where I get my copper sheet. For thicker stuff, I just flatten out copper couplings.

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Wow - I gotta try this. I usually solder the wires on the LED last and keep the wires the shortest length possible. So my method, you have to de-solder the LED wires first to remove the driver. I think using this method, you must have enough play in the wires to solder the driver connections with the MCPCB mounted already, then have to have enough pill space to fit the extra length of coiled wire. Not sure how you can do this in many pills with 18 AWG wire. Think I'd like to see a part 2, showing the driver being soldered and how it all fits/assembles together.

But this O-L method is a hugh benefit for HD2010's, because basically you can't have any bump up on the connections, specially if you de-dome. I'll have to try this.

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Great idea! Thanks for sharing Smile

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I missed this first time around. I will try this on the mystery light as the mystery light is a HD2010. Can you use brass instead of copper? I have some 10 though brass shim.

 

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Fantastic solution. Will definitely be using this in the near future. I have had this problem so many times. I can also see how on a larger light you could bend the copper too. That way you could come at it from the side instead of underneath.

Thanks for sharing this is going to be a huge help!

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back a great trick of the FlashlightPope Love

maybe for one dedome xpg2 on the k50 v2 Wink

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I wonder if a solid wire could be pounded flat on the end and shaped to fit. Say maybe a 20 guage copper wire (do these get made with a silicone jacket?) then pound the end flat, fold to fit and solder once.

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scottyhazzard wrote:
I wonder if a solid wire could be pounded flat on the end and shaped to fit. Say maybe a 20 guage copper wire (do these get made with a silicone jacket?) then pound the end flat, fold to fit and solder once.
Probably could. There's several ways to make a flat contact wire. Stranded wire could be forced flat, if flattening it while the solder on it was still soft.

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