Review: Ultrafire M51 (MT-G2 P0) and mod

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ChibiM
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Review: Ultrafire M51 (MT-G2 P0) and mod

 Ultrafire M51 MT-G2
Thank you DX.com for graciously providing me this flashlight for review
Link is traffic tracking link, not affiliate

 Many pictures in this review have links to bigger sized ones, or mouse overs

Short intro:

As more and more flashlight-makers step up with MT-G2 lights, Ultrafire couldn`t stay behind. They are usually known for substandard quality lights, but with the M51 they have stepped that up. Not all Ultrafires are Ultrafires so to say.
There seem to be a lot of ultrafire clones on the market as well, which might have caused the damage to their name.

The M51 is a fine piece of quality, and we will see what Ultrafire has to offer in their newest flagship.
The light is not mentioned on their website yet: http://www.ultrafire.net/index.asp

 

Specifications:

Brand/Model  Ultrafire M51  
LEDMT-G2

Working voltage

9V~
Battery3x18650
Switch1 side switch
Modes4
BlinkiesStrobe
Mode changingSide switch
AnodizingHAIII

Tailstand

Yes
Lock-outYes
Momentary OnNo
LensCoated
ReflectorOp
Waterproof?
Shop:DX.com
(provided for review)Thank you

 What you get:

  • Hard case
  • M51 flashlight
  • Holster
  • lanyard
  • extra O-ring

To my surprise there was no Manual in the box. I definitely expected one with this type of light.
Not sure it they forgot to add one, or if there is (was) none available.
My S/N is A0020 which might indicate it`s one of the first ones produced, and maybe the reason for it.

 

The Hardcase is quite nice. But when looking close up, you can see that the handle and some other parts are made of plastic.
But the case is much better than many crappy card boxes or blister packages. Not sure what other hard cases look like, as this is my first light coming with this size case.
The case is padded very well, and includes the holster..
It fits the M51 really well. No dead space!




 

Handling, feel and close up

It`s needless to say that it`s not made for a EDC for on your key chain, unless your name is hulk.
The feel is great. And the machining also really nice.
I`ve had a few Ultrafire lights before, but this is definitely one of their nicest ones.
The Ultrafire UF H2B is was among my favorites of its machining.. smooth, (not talking about the inner parts) when I started collecting flashlights a few years back. The M51 easily competes with some more upper class flashlight makers.

Seeing and holding the M51 for the first time will bring a smile on your face. At least for the people who only have less experience with modern flashlights.
Especially considering we have “patrols” in our neighborhood done by volunteers, who use flashlights that are as bright as a cigaret lighter. And sometimes as big as a portable vacuum cleaner, with low output.
I love what they do, but I feel like they need something brighter for their duties.

The overal diameter of the body equals close to the size of the Supbeam M6 or a regular SRK.
Although they use 4 batteries, while the M51 uses 3. (in series that is)

Funnily enough, when I went out to take some pics in the park of this light, it literally just dropped in my shorts` side pocket.. I was kind of surprised.. and it didn`t feel to ackward to carry it that way.. hmm... so it could be used as an EDC?

Knurling.
That has been taking care off.
The body has great knurling. And workmaship on this light is above most other ultrafire lights you may have come across.
No sharp edges, no missed anodizing spots.
No problem handling this with 1 hand, although a little difficult for smaller women hands.
Better not give this to your daughter when she is going on her first scout trip

 Anodizing, threads and prints

No real blemish to be found. Except maybe for 1 tiny spot, but I have been playing with it, and opening it up, so that could be my own fault..

The fins on the body are there to help getting the heat away.. it surely heats up a lot.
During my run-time test, I had 2 small USB fans “cooling” the light so it wouldn`t fry itself on my table top.

The threads are also anodized, and are square shaped.
Just above the power button you can see the text, that is printed very neatly.
The battery carrier is designed that way, that it has both the positive and negative connection on eacht side.. that way you can insert it either way.

The spring inside the body tube is there only to press the carrier upward to get in contact with the electronics up in the head. It doesnt have any other functions. See picture

All threads came lubed. And threads were smooth without noticeable play. See the following pics.. With links to larger size

 

Switch:

The M51 uses only 1 electronic switch, which is backlit continuously .
It`s green when the light is switched on, and red when the batteries run low.
The button is made of translucent whitish rubber, and is very easy to locate.

During my waterproof test, somehow some water came inside the light, although I`ve only noticed that after I cam back home.. and I believe it came through the switch..
But because I had opened the light before hand, it leaked maybe because I didn`t screw everything down tight enough..(next time I should double check and tighten everything well)

Lens, bezel and reflector

The head of the M51 is fairly heavy, at 173grams.
Bezel is Stainless steel, and helps to protect from scratches and dents.
Unfortunately it`s not covering the sides of the head so bumping the head into something can result in some cosmetical damage.


The lens seems to be double sided-coated, from both side the blue hue can be seen.
Move your mouse over the picture above.
It sits in a full-round rubber ring.
It`s not a normal O-ring, but a ring with a U shape, that holds the lens in its total. I guess thats for protecting the lens, and at the same time the reflector, a very neat solution!

The SA04 light I reviewed recently should have done this as well, because the lens was touching the plastic reflector, and therefore showing some wear on the reflector.

LED MT-G2 is centered well with the centering ring, and makes a beautiful beam in combination with the orange peel reflector. It sits on a copper star. Not sure if its direct to copper though.
Most people say that MT-G2 works best with this type of reflector..


Battery carrier

The battery carrier is quite simple and straight forward.. no praise there!
To me it seems like they could have gotten something a bit nicer.

It has 3 batteries in series. 3S1P.
Protected and unprotected fit well!
My NCR18650B protected, and my Sanyo Red unprotected fit without a problem.
Also due to the little nipples on the positive sides, unprotected, flat cells work as a charm!

There might be some resistance in the carrier so I think there is also some room for improvement.

Probably later I will do a little modding to see if there is some output improvement.


Dimensions and weight:

Length 185mm
Diameter head 64mm
Diameter body 47.5mm
Weight empty 498 grams
Weight loaded 642 grams

The M51 consists of 3 main pieces..
The Head, Pill/Switch assembly, and the body.
The head weighs 173 grams
The Pill assembly weighs 188 grams
The body with battery carrier weighs 137grams


the colors are a bit off

UI modes and settings (I personally don`t like the UI, but I understand it can be useful for some occasions)

To simplify you will have 3 modes in reach every time from OFF.

    • Low mode (long press)
    • Your Preset mode (short press)
    • Strobe (double click)

 

There are 4 modes in the preset.
Low, Medium, High, Turbo
and there is 1 hidden Strobe mode

 

HOW TO PRESET/MODE MEMORY (to set the desired output as your Preset mode)
(This is what the M51 sets itself apart from other flashlight, not everyone will like it though)

PRESS AND HOLD to access the preset modes.
The light will start in LOW. (You need to release the switch now.. nothing will happen if you don`t)

Press and hold again to cycle through Medium, High Turbo, and back to High, Medium etc..
Release the switch at the desired output, and that will be memorized as your preset mode!!!!!!! (also works for Low)
Like this: LOW-MEDIUM-HIGH-TURBO-HIGH-MEDIUM-HIGH-TURBO-HIGH-MEDIUM-HIGH-TURBO
(Note: The cycle will NOT go back into Low mode, as you`ll have access to it by a long press from OFF at all times)

How to Turn OFF:

When you set the desired output, and had released the switch in the PRESET MODE cycle, both a Short or Long press will turn the light off.

My issues with the UI:

Once you`ve set the Preset mode to High.
You can simply enter it by a short click. But when it is in the preset mode, you can`t cycle to other modes!
You need to go back from when the light is turned off and Start from the Preset cycle again.
Ultrafire must have had some applications in mind where this UI is useful. But for me it`s not really useful. I like to be able to switch between modes at any time.

But to some people it will be helpful to have the light always turn on in the same mode when you do a short press.... always.

Blinkies

There is the STROBE mode..
Enter by a double click

PWM

None detectable by eye

LOCK OUT

Yes, unscrew the body from the head, and because of the little spring used inside, it will push the negative contact point away, and break the connention that way. So locked out.
The body does not connect as ground/negative.
You can see the center part for being the Positive, and the outer part for being the negative.
The positive center has a short spring underneath which is connected to Pos on driver, but not directly but through a little strip.. probably some improvement could be done by connecting it directly.

 

PERFORMANCE

Draw: stock
using 3 pannies NCRB in series and a total of 11.6volts (not fully charged) I desoldered the Positive wire to the led, and connected it to my DMM.
Result, 7.6V and 3.07A to the led.

All wires are 24AWG, so there is probably room for improvement here.
Im planning in doing some minor mods in the future and share the results.
I won`t push it as hard as some of you.. Also the little dimple under the star worries me a bit. .
I`m going to need some help then, who is willing to help?

Runtime 97 minutes on max

Taken with 3 Panasonic NCR18650B
With almost no output sag, only the first few minutes, after that almost a constant output give or take a few lux until it turned off.
The Switch turns RED as a Low Voltage warning.

 

An easy 1 1/2 hours on Max.
Actually 97 minutes, so 1 hour and 37 minutes.
Cut off is most likely at 9V, as the batteries were at 2.99V 2.97V and 2.99V when I checked them with my DMM about a minute after the light had shut off.

When the light was off, I turned it on in Turbo, and it still produces about 280 lux with the ceiling bounce.

THROW: 31175cd

My first measurment was measured at 5 meters with 3 cells that weren`t fully charged.. The meter showed 1247lux, which equals to 31175cd
That is not so bad for an MT-G2.. Because its known to be a flooder led, rather than a thrower led.
After recharging the batteries, the throw was still the same.

Beam shots:

Maybe because this is my first MT-G2 light, but I ffound it to have a very pleasant tint.
In the pictures the spill is a little hard to see, but the building in the background was lit up very evenly with the spill and hotspot of the MT-G2.
Quite a powerful beam!

 Control shot:

Medium next:

Next High

And lastly, Turbo

Comparison in size:

Conclusion (will keep adding when things come to mind)

PROS:

  • Beautifully machined Ultrafire light, probably one of their best ones
  • MT-G2!  bright and floody with a very pleasing tint
  • Hard case
  • Instant access to 3 modes (long press for Low, short press for Preset mode, double click for Strobe)
  • Stainless steel bezel
  • Holster 
  • 1 handed operation
  • Easy to hold, with good balanced weight between head and body

 

CONS

  • UI is quite ackward. can`t cycle through modes when in preset mode
  • No manual included
  • Hard case is not of very high quality, but that seems to be the same case with most lights
  • Price, other brands have more to offer for the money
  • Doesn`t seem to be very (under)water resistant

THE END


Photo gallery:

Water proof?

Not really

It should withstand rain, but its certainly not a diving light.

Edited by: ChibiM on 09/06/2014 - 09:24
ChibiM
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Reserved for mod:

 

QUESTION;; what is easier to understand from reading the review about the UI:
1.Press and Hold... 2. Short click    or just saying
1.Long press 2. Short press

 

Not sure what is easier to understand.

ChibiM
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This post will be used to show the results with my current mods..

Please help! As most of this stuff is over my head.

1. I will change the wires to 18awg
2. I will directly connect the wire that goes to Pos on the battery carrier, instead of through the thin trace.

3. my first resister mod.. I don`t want to blow the led.. they are quite pricey


1. I changed the wires to 18AWG both from the driver to the contact plate, plus the wires to the LED...

And directly connected the positive wire to the center hole, near the spring that touches the Positive of the battery carrier. 

result: Only 10 lux more.....

2. I want to see what I can do with the resisters.

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Was flipping the bird really necessary? Silly

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Nice review. I really like the design. How many lumens is it cranking out?

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unknown00101 wrote:
Was flipping the bird really necessary? Tongue

ChibiM (totally out of context) wrote:

Not sure what is easier to understand.

...

flipping_the_bird

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Thanks for the review. My favorite led. I stand to be corrected but with the higher voltage of the MTG-2 the wiring for the same current to an XML can be smaller with the MTG-2.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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Great review and pictures.  Wish they would have gone 4S cells instead, but pretty cool looking light none the less.  Thank you.

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unknown00101 wrote:
Was flipping the bird really necessary? :P

Ah.. sorry. I was reading something on BLF!

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Not sure about the lumens.

but the ceiling bounce was 280 at startup, and settled at 262 within a few minutes.

I don`t have any lights that I can compare it with, I have the Supbeam and SRK from dx, but both are taken apart.. still waiting on parts.

I wrote down the SRK from DX ceiling bounce lux, and it was 309 at startup. That`s all I have.No idea how many lumens.

My DGQ 26650 NW had a ceiling bounce of 170 on Turbo. (which should be around 1200lumens or so)

SWM D40A and F40A are in the 120-130 ballpark. (both around 900-950 lumens)
So I don`t think it would be a bad guess if I`d say the Ultrafire M51 is around 1900 lumens. (just looking at Djozz graph here)

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ChibiM wrote:

unknown00101 wrote:
Was flipping the bird really necessary? Silly

Ah.. sorry. I was reading something on BLF!


And you gave them the bird?
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Yes... somebody was trashing one of my threads Wink

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Not bad light for a Ultrafire but a little bit pricey. For the money (actually – for less money) I’d get Supbeam/Acebeam K40M which is better in basically every way.

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really nice looking light!

if it was priced a bit lower… maybe ~$75 it would be a must have… but at that price of $120… just buy a K40m or s2200 i guess

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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This looks like a different category to the s2200. The s2200 has a massive head on it so these are a different thing IMO. Easier …or maybe not… to carry?

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The M51 has a very nice Low as well, which the S2200 doesnt.
And yes, I think the price should be below $100 for this light.

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Very nice review with lots of pictures, thank you very much. Smile

But to be honest if I want to spend $120 on a MT-G2 light I will spend it elsewhere (i.e. K40M). I’ve never seen this M51 in real so I can’t say it is not good, but simply have a feeling that it should be priced below $80.

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Thanks.
I actually don`t want to have too many pictures in my reviews.
Some have soo many pictures, that I don`t even read the text.. it just looks like a catalogue.. buy it, be happy kind of thing.

So I add some pics in the end, and I link to many pictures, or have mouse overs and such..

I don`t need to see 5 pictures from different angels of the bezel.

5 pictures of the lanyard

5 pictures of the holster

etc..

but that`s just my taste Wink

feel free to comment about reviews in general in this thread Big Smilehttp://budgetlightforum.com/node/23340

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I don’t know about the others but I personally prefer a lot of pictures. Big Smile And I see you did have a lot of explanations, dimension measurements and runtime graph too, it’s full with info. Smile

By the way, did you try to shine this light in lower modes on a spinning fan and could you notice PWM patterns?

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I just took a picture, exposure of 1 second.. and I can`t see any PWM.

The following is from 2 lights, that use PWM. also 1sec exposure (although a little better focused)

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definitely above normal ultrafire or xxxfire quality!

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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jmpaul320 wrote:
definitely above normal ultrafire or surefire quality!

is that what you wrote? hehe

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Nice review. Great pictures.

Gotta agree with others. Too expensive. 

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That’s one heckuva good looking light
But $120+ ?? For an Ultrafire??

I’ve got the K40M and it cost less than this Sad

Lights out! That's when things get interesting...

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ChibiM wrote:

jmpaul320 wrote:
definitely above normal ultrafire or surefire quality!

is that what you wrote? hehe

I see what you did there.

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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Decent light for 70$ max, for more they can keep it Smile

Great review anyway….

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

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Ok.. I need some help:

In my 2nd post, you can see that changing the wires to 18AWG didnt improve the output much..

So I want to do a resister mod!

THis is the pic with the current smd resistors.

1. Can this be resistor modded?

 

Stock I got 7.6V and 3.07A to the LED.

According to the picture below, the R240 would be 0.240 ohm,

so I used this website: and 4 times 0.240 ohm makes it 0.0600 ohm.

2. Is this correct?

3. Using THIS website, I calculated that 7.6V and 3A equals 22.8W
is that also correct?

4. but the same calculator shows 2.53 ohms....

where did I go wrong?

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Ok, I got some info about calculating the A from the LD29 mod thread


So I will just enter my own values, and see if it makes any sense.

Quoted from the mentioned thread.

The ouput amps to the LED is 3A, so therefor the sensing voltage is V = I x R = 3 x 0.06 = 0.18V. The sensing voltage will stay constant, so if you want 5A output to the LED, your sensing resistor should be: R = V/I = 0.18/5 = 0.036 Ω. So your best bet would be to Remove the 4 SMD resitors, and put a R036???? resistor. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to get the exact resistor in small quantities. Thus we stack resistors to get to the desired overall resistance.

I can`t follow the following numbers yet.. I tried, and think its correct... but please let me know if I do something wrong.

- 2 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.05Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.06Ω = 0.0273Ω = 6.5A?? correct? (0.18/0.273)
- 3 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.03333Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.06Ω = 0.0349Ω = 5.15A??   (0.18/0.0349)
- 4 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.02500Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.06Ω = 0.0484Ω = 3.71A??   (0.18/0.0484)


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Forget all the math, there's no way to know if it's correct from one light to another until after you change the resistors and see how much difference it makes. Just stack one resistor at a time, something reasonable that won't whack it too hard in one go, like 1/2 ohm (R500). The higher your added resistors are, the less increase each one will give. Adding a really low one like a R020 could be too much, using a bunch of higher value ones gives you a lot more control and won't suddenly do something bad on you.

Bookmark this page, it'll decode anything: http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php

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Thanks..

I have this pack from fasttech. But none of them have the R in front of the numbers, so I guess they are really big.

and thanks for the link. I also just found that one during my search.

edit; just checking my SMDs, but all are really really big.. strange because it shouldnt be , looking at the details at fasttech.

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Dude, you live in Tokyo. There are probably thirty SMD resistor vending machines within a half mile of you right now. Big Smile

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