2D is now Modded - Video Review and Tear Down of the 3rd GEN Maglite Flashlights - Beam Shots and Amp Draws are up

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Old-Lumens
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2D is now Modded - Video Review and Tear Down of the 3rd GEN Maglite Flashlights - Beam Shots and Amp Draws are up

 Look at Post #1 for corrections. Sorry folks, for the screw up.

See Post #39 for the 2D Mod.

Ok folks, here it is and it's a long video, with a couple of "double takes" in it, but it will show the tear down y'all want... I hope.

 Totally new light! A Major design change and they really did some good things to the new Mag!

I love this new light!

Here's a couple photos of the driver/switch

1

3D Driver

 

 

 

 

g31

2D driver

 

 

g32

g33

g34

 

 EDITED: Amp Draws: All amps were done at the tail end. This does not mean amperage to the LED, just amperage drawn from the cells, by the driver.

3D High 1.5 amps at the tail 
3D Low .22 amps
3D Eco .10 amps

2D High 2.86 amps at the tail 
2D Low .30 amps
2D Eco .14 amps

 

Beam Shots 2D

2d1

2d2

2d3

2d4

2d5

2d6

 

 

 

3D

3d1

3d2

3d3

3d4

3d5

3d6

3d7

 

 

 

Mouseovers - 2D is Mouse OUT,   3D is Mouse OVER

 

md1

md2

 

I think I damaged the pill for the 2D from removing it and replacing it. It affected the beam some. I don't think it's straight in place any more.

 

That's all I got I guess. I feel like either of these lights stock, would be fine for walking or general use. I would pick the 3D for more brightness and runtime and the 2D for less weight.

 

 

 

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Edited by: sb56637 on 09/02/2017 - 12:11
Old-Lumens
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OMG! I just read the Manual. There's "Function Sets"!! I never read the manual.  I really have to apoligize for that.

Function set #1 General Use - Full power/Low power/Eco      #2 Outdoor Use - Full/Low/Strobe    #3 Law Enforcement - Momentary/Full/Eco    #4 Tactical - Momentary/Full/Strobe

It comes set for Standard Mode. To change Function Sets, Uncerew the tail cap, till contact breaks. Wait 2 seconds, then press the switch and hold. Turn the tail cap back in and keep holding the button till the light starts to blink, (4 seconds). The number of the function set is the number of blinks. Choose a set by releasing the button after the number of blinks that corresponds to the set you want. One, Two, Thee or Four blinks. Then you will be in that function set.    Repeat the process to change to another set.

I will have to try that and see if I can do it.  Sorry for nort doing my review properly to begin with.

 

EDIT: I have just tried it and it does work.

  • Unscrew the TC a half turn
  • Wait 2 seconds and then push and hold the switch
  • Turn the TC back in tight
  • Continue to hold for 4 seconds
  • The light will blink once, meaning function set 1 - let off the switch if you want function set 1 or continue to hold for the other function set.
  • If you continue to hold, after 2 more seconds the light will flash two times, signifying function set 2. You can figure out from there, if you continue to hold in the switch, you get three blinks and then four blinks and you let off just after the number of blinks you want, for the function set you want.

It works and I tested all modes.

Remember that when you change the different modes in each function set, like H/L/Eco, you have to be quick. Quick clicks... You have to start with the light off and click very quickly, one/two/ or three clicks, to get the level you want.

Hope this hepls some.

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dchomak
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I will watch the video tonight when I get home.
I anticipated this light almost as much as the new iPhone 6 Smile

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Is there still visible PWM with these? Thanks for the teardown.

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Thank you.

Thank you very much. I have been very curious about this and that answers many of my questions.

I must say I fast forwarded a few times but I never watch video reviews because I can read a written review in about 1/10 the time and I did watch this. 

Too bad about the modes though. Why would they adobt the chinese standard 3 modes? 100/50/25%

Anyway it is what it is. They likely wont change it anytime soon and I am still just happy that people who live where maglites are less dear than here can get modern tech with modes and hopefully great durability to run off alkaleaks. Wish it was me.

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Why you no let kitty in video? Frown

 

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I can't watch video here, but the pictures show hints of quality stuff.  Very exciting.  Thank you O-L Smile

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thank you for the review Justin – I was wondering when you would get your hands on this new model Smile

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
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the pictures isn’t work for me Sad

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strayz
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How long until someone figures a way to drop in a new driver and Boom! We have More Light! Much less battery life but more light.

Not supper thrilled with the spacing of the modes, and not sure how I feel about the twist spot/flood. Even back in the early 80’s when I got my first one, I thought that it is kinda a gimmick, and left it on spot most of the time…

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Thanks for the tear down. I wonder if we’ll see this change on the ML units. I’d really love one of them with decent output.

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I see they use my favorite Buck-Boost IC, the T.I. TPS63020. What surprises me most is the use of a four layer PCB. Seems odd for a cost conscious flashlight.

Haven't yet figured out what all the other stuff is for... this may be an interim to test the market and then shift to a custom IC approach down the road.

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See Post #1 for the correction of my errors. Sorry about that.

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I like it, looks like a nice design :*

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So, I'm thinking a copper replacement for the metal pill, with a MT-G2 on it and replacing the driver in the switch. Who's going to do it first? I know someone here or on CPF, (machinist), will come up with it. Would be a great mod that could be done fairly easily, with a lathe.

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If we had the light here I'd suggest it would sell for about $6000.00 + GST. Thanks for your thoughts OL. I'll watch the vid later.

 

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Beam shots and Amp draws are in the OP.

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With cells in series 1.5 amps is 1.5 amps, it's just at a higher voltage. With fresh alkalines I guess voltage under load would be, what, 1.4v per cell? 1.4 volts x number of cells x amperage = input power in watts. The 3 cell light using those numbers would be only 6.3 watts, and that's input power, so the output side will be something like 85-90% of that.With only ~6 watts input there's no way anything even close to 4.5 amps is going to get to the LED.

The 2 cell version would have to use a boost driver so the input current would be higher to make up for the lower voltage (and also boost drivers are usually less efficient). The 3 cell very well could be a buck-boost driver, since 3 nearly flat alkalines will be below the voltage needed to run the LED at ~5 watts.

Compare the tailcap current with fresh cells to the current with nearly flat cells, that will clear up a lot about what the driver is doing. If current goes up as voltage falls, it's switching over to boost mode. If current continues to fall with voltage it's buck-only.

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strayz wrote:
and not sure how I feel about the twist spot/flood. Even back in the early 80’s when I got my first one, I thought that it is kinda a gimmick, and left it on spot most of the time…

This one stumped me for a while, until I figured out what it’s actually for. And it isn’t flood to throw. It’s a focus.

It allows you to optimise the beam for any distance. Something a fixed focus torch can’t do.

For example, some of my C8’s and my small sun, if I shine them at a wall fairly close up you get a donut hole in the beam, this is because they are more optimised to throw. But it makes them less useful on low when you want to use them close up. Most fixed focus lights compromise and don’t quite optimise focus for throw, to then avoid the donut hole.

With the Mag you can refocus it for any distance and always avoid the donut hole. The off shots from this mean you really can the best throw the led and reflector size offer. It also allows you to make it more floody, although I don’t believe that is the prime purpose.

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comfychair wrote:

With cells in series 1.5 amps is 1.5 amps, it's just at a higher voltage. With fresh alkalines I guess voltage under load would be, what, 1.4v per cell? 1.4 volts x number of cells x amperage = input power in watts. The 3 cell light using those numbers would be only 6.3 watts, and that's input power, so the output side will be something like 85-90% of that.With only ~6 watts input there's no way anything even close to 4.5 amps is going to get to the LED.

The 2 cell version would have to use a boost driver so the input current would be higher to make up for the lower voltage (and also boost drivers are usually less efficient). The 3 cell very well could be a buck-boost driver, since 3 nearly flat alkalines will be below the voltage needed to run the LED at ~5 watts.

Compare the tailcap current with fresh cells to the current with nearly flat cells, that will clear up a lot about what the driver is doing. If current goes up as voltage falls, it's switching over to boost mode. If current continues to fall with voltage it's buck-only.

I edited the post. I don't understand it, but I edited it. I think I need to stop taking amp draws, since I don't understand it. Thanks for pointing it out.

 

EDIT: Current does go up as voltage falls.

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Cool function sets.  Nice feature. 

I like how the new beam pattern much more.  The old pencil beam was cool for throw, but not good for general usage.  Much smoother beam now too.

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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
strayz wrote:
and not sure how I feel about the twist spot/flood. Even back in the early 80's when I got my first one, I thought that it is kinda a gimmick, and left it on spot most of the time...
This one stumped me for a while, until I figured out what it's actually for. And it isn't flood to throw. It's a focus. It allows you to optimise the beam for any distance. Something a fixed focus torch can't do. For example, some of my C8's and my small sun, if I shine them at a wall fairly close up you get a donut hole in the beam, this is because they are more optimised to throw. But it makes them less useful on low when you want to use them close up. Most fixed focus lights compromise and don't quite optimise focus for throw, to then avoid the donut hole. With the Mag you can refocus it for any distance and always avoid the donut hole. The off shots from this mean you really can the best throw the led and reflector size offer. It also allows you to make it more floody, although I don't believe that is the prime purpose.

I think it's more to focus the light with any bulb. The old bulbs with a flange had significant variation from sample to sample. I spend many hours bending flanges on PR series bulbs with long-nosed pliers to adjust the focus for each particular light. Didn't have to do that for Mags. Didn't help with off-center filaments, though. Laughing

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Old-Lumens wrote:

comfychair wrote:

With cells in series 1.5 amps is 1.5 amps, it's just at a higher voltage. With fresh alkalines I guess voltage under load would be, what, 1.4v per cell? 1.4 volts x number of cells x amperage = input power in watts. The 3 cell light using those numbers would be only 6.3 watts, and that's input power, so the output side will be something like 85-90% of that.With only ~6 watts input there's no way anything even close to 4.5 amps is going to get to the LED.

The 2 cell version would have to use a boost driver so the input current would be higher to make up for the lower voltage (and also boost drivers are usually less efficient). The 3 cell very well could be a buck-boost driver, since 3 nearly flat alkalines will be below the voltage needed to run the LED at ~5 watts.

Compare the tailcap current with fresh cells to the current with nearly flat cells, that will clear up a lot about what the driver is doing. If current goes up as voltage falls, it's switching over to boost mode. If current continues to fall with voltage it's buck-only.

I edited the post. I don't understand it, but I edited it. I think I need to stop taking amp draws, since I don't understand it. Thanks for pointing it out.

 

EDIT: Current does go up as voltage falls.

Current goes up even for the 3 cell? That's interesting. Should mean it's able to fully drain a set of alkalines while maintaining maximum possible output all the way to the end.

I wonder if the 2 cell & 3 cell drivers are actually the same? Can you try 2 cells in the 3 cell light, and 3 in the 2 cell light?

 

As for why you don't understand how it works, I think that's normal as long as you try to work it out without converting your tailcap (input) numbers into watts. Do that and it makes it easy to make a meaningful comparison between two lights, no matter what they're powered by. Volts x amps = watts. 4 volts at 3 amps is exactly the same as 3 volts at 4 amps, even though the number/type of cells used to get there could be totally unrelated. By converting to watts it clears away a bunch of stuff that just adds confusion.

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Oh snap! Maglite stepping up to the plate…BIG TIME!

Running XM-L/L2 correct? (Can’t watch the video’s yet)

Wonder if a descent buck driver could be build in the space of the “stock” driver but with modes like that…not on the ATtiny13 or even 25, maybe the 85 or on the PIC

Wicked cool OL…thanks!

I would think some conformal coating (nail polish or clear spraypaint) overt the components (not on the contact pads for the switch) would definitely help “weather proof” it even though maglites are pretty darn waterproof to begin with

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comfychair wrote:

Old-Lumens wrote:

comfychair wrote:

With cells in series 1.5 amps is 1.5 amps, it's just at a higher voltage. With fresh alkalines I guess voltage under load would be, what, 1.4v per cell? 1.4 volts x number of cells x amperage = input power in watts. The 3 cell light using those numbers would be only 6.3 watts, and that's input power, so the output side will be something like 85-90% of that.With only ~6 watts input there's no way anything even close to 4.5 amps is going to get to the LED.

The 2 cell version would have to use a boost driver so the input current would be higher to make up for the lower voltage (and also boost drivers are usually less efficient). The 3 cell very well could be a buck-boost driver, since 3 nearly flat alkalines will be below the voltage needed to run the LED at ~5 watts.

Compare the tailcap current with fresh cells to the current with nearly flat cells, that will clear up a lot about what the driver is doing. If current goes up as voltage falls, it's switching over to boost mode. If current continues to fall with voltage it's buck-only.

I edited the post. I don't understand it, but I edited it. I think I need to stop taking amp draws, since I don't understand it. Thanks for pointing it out.

 

EDIT: Current does go up as voltage falls.

Current goes up even for the 3 cell? That's interesting. Should mean it's able to fully drain a set of alkalines while maintaining maximum possible output all the way to the end.

I wonder if the 2 cell & 3 cell drivers are actually the same? Can you try 2 cells in the 3 cell light, and 3 in the 2 cell light?

 

As for why you don't understand how it works, I think that's normal as long as you try to work it out without converting your tailcap (input) numbers into watts. Do that and it makes it easy to make a meaningful comparison between two lights, no matter what they're powered by. Volts x amps = watts. 4 volts at 3 amps is exactly the same as 3 volts at 4 amps, even though the number/type of cells used to get there could be totally unrelated. By converting to watts it clears away a bunch of stuff that just adds confusion.

I just got the 3 cell apart. The driver is totally different. I will take photos when I can, but it's the same size, with totally different components and circuits.

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Should image the 3D is a buck driver whereas the 2D a boost.

D cell’s might have a lot of capacity, but the 2D is just like running a 2xAA light in many respects.

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Photo of the 3D driver, now in the OP

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Thanks OL for the teardown. I’m disappointed with the heatsink design: Knurling on both heatsink and tube,, :Sp I’m pretty sure no knurling would have been cheaper.

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The knurling may allow for slightly larger tolerances in the base tube keeping things to a reasonable cost but at the same time doing enough to get rid of whatever heat is generated.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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