No heatsinking at all? Unbelievable! |( What can i do about this? anyone have any ideas?
Notice the masking tape they used over the wires? 
|(
I guess you cant expect much for $23.
That has to be the worst case I've seen yet. Here's one option, but it requires a drill press.
Eww, I wish I could cancel my order. I am embarrassed to say I bought this light.
I do have a drill press but no aluminum or copper at the moment. Is all the skyrays like this too?
Yea i have another on the way unfortunately.
It's a lottery with the SRK's. The Supfire M6 is the light I recommend to folks that want this format of light. Very nice quality light.
Another option would be to pack aluminum foil around the reflector and pill. The tighter the better. May actually move heat halfway decent. Wouldn't go crazy with amping it up though. Not sure what current level to tell you where to stop though. If you get a light meter (they are very affordable) you can measure for thermal sag to determine what is the max current it can take with aluminum foil pack. Maybe someone here has a rough idea off the top of their head.
The reflector is not making contact with the led pcb at all. The led isolators are holding it off. I measured 3.8 amps at the tail cap and the leds are wired in parallel. I measured 2800 lumens with my redneck lumen meter box.
Even though there is only one screw connecting the mcpcb to the reflector, packing foil around the reflector will help in 2 ways:
- The larger mass of aluminum foil will absorb more heat in and of itself.
- Packing foil up around the reflector will provide more surface area for the aluminum foil to contact. Obviously, the upper area of the head is where you want the heat to go, but the reflector will also absorb and emit some of this heat too.
I will try copper tape as I have tons of it.
I thought about trying to mount a cpu sink on the mcpcb, but not sure if that will help since it will be on the inside.
Copper tape is awesome. I use it too, but it costs an arm and a leg. Do you have any recommendations where to buy it from?
thank you very much aw73 for sharing this i was planing to buy it
There is not really a cheap way to buy it. I happened to find 2 full rolls of 2inch at goodwill a year ago.
Yours looks like it has a thread for a screw in shelf, but no shelf. I guess that is why the reflector is glued to the emitters - or else it would be loose.
I had this on a sky ray kung I got off eBay, but mine had no threading there, so was clearly designed to not have a shelf in there.
I got a CPU heat sink off an old computer. The copper was about 6mm. Used an angle grinder to get it to within about 1mm of diameter of tube, then filed it to size. Tapped in the copper with a hammer. Now its excellent. But it was a fair bit of work.
Its not glued it has a screw. It does have threads for a shelf, i wish i knew where i could get one. But if i cant i will use a cpu heatsink also and grind the threads out and press it in, but i really hate to do that. I wish i had a lathe.
Oh yes screwed in of course - I got 4hrs sleep last night! So I guess in the second pic the plastic on the back of the mcpcb is there because their screw was too long without the shelf!
Probably so…lol china rigging…lol
Had the same thing happen when I bought 10 SRK’s (made a thread in the dealer experience sub-forum if you want to look threw how it all played out). You have a PayPal claim for SNAD if the seller won’t hook you up with a heatsink. You can see the treads where it should screw into the head meaning it’s expected to be there meaning item SNAD.
Ok thanks!
If the light operates correctly in stock form you have no grounds for filing a claim. If the driver output is low it's entirely possible that the LEDs will suffer no ill effects.
Imagine you go buy a new car, bolt on a huge turbo and crank the boost to 30PSI, and proceed to knock all the connecting rods out the side of the block. Then you file a lemon law claim because the factory didn't install conrods strong enough to handle a 300% power increase over stock.