Info thread for this Boruit headlight posted in the Deal alert thread by dolbysys.
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_52557.html
coupon: GBHeadlamp price:$19.39
The emitters in the side heads clearly don't look like XM-L's, IMO.
The box pictured is also of a different model.
Any owners, please chime in.
Photo from DX. Could they just look different due to TIR's on the side heads?
Tried this headlamp? I’m looking for a decent one ,for when I try and solder it helps me to see and walking my two dogs I had 1 get hit by a rattlesnake that never rattled and couldn’t see , luckily she made it but a decent light would free up my hands when trying to walk two dogs on leashes.
I still think it’s ‘okay’, but I haven’t used it but maybe 3 times after the review.
My Nitecore HC50 now fulfills all my headlight needs. 
Very similar to the MagicShine MJ-816E. The MS uses XP-G's on the side. The older MJ-816 was an SSP7 with 2 XP-E's.
-Garry
I just bought the same light but unfortunate for me the thing doesn’t work. Cycled through the power button and now it wont shut off and the main light flickers.The main light gets brighter and stops flickering when I push the power button.Here are some pictures of the guts.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w253/bigdaddyale/20150312_010750.jpg http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w253/bigdaddyale/20150312_010915.jpg 
Just found this video .It’s in Russian but you get the idea. https://youtu.be/7Erkg01gdNA
looks like the main A1SHB transistor went out.
Where can I pick up a new A1SHB? not sure what part I need.Are there any cool mods I can make while I have the soldering iron hot?
Thanks
I have a RJ-5000 with the same problem, it won’t turn on, and if it does eventually turn on, then it wont’ turn off.
I’ve fixed the problem, by taking out one of the batteries and cycling through the actions of turning it on then off.
I then took both batteries out for a few seconds, put them back in, and it now works perfectly.
is possible to get any orange reflector for the middle-biggest head? i need more floody:))
Boruit RJ-3000 repaired
Hi all,
I had a similar issue with my Boruit RJ-3000.
Problem:
When I switched it on, no lights lit up, only the 'LED HEADLIGHT' indicator on the back of the battery house lit up, indicating the the batteries were fine.
Measured them and indeed, they were not the cause.
Also the led light functioned, (checked that simply with multimeter to test the circuit before and after the led light. easy enough when you screw loose the glass of the light)
Solution:
I opened the back of the center lamp (where the switch is located) and found out two wires were broken loose from the board.
I soldered them back on and everything worked fine again.
So my tip: check soldering, they are not the best!
Bertje
Zombie thread!
I’ve got one of these; actually received it as a Christmas gift last year. I’ve been very happy with it for what it is… I have a smaller floody headlamp (modded with high-CRI Nichia) that I use for up-close work like soldering but the Boruit seems to be a decent cheap option for when you need a brighter light for long range use. I actually had this exact light in my GB shopping cart and had planned to order one for myself.
Mine has LB XM-L type clones for all three emitters, with two behind the TIRs on the side. The central LB emitter actually has a really nice tint and works well. Nicely focused hotspot, so I’ll probably leave that one as-is. Also, the battery pack has a parallel configuration, so it’s safer when strapped to your head than if you had them in series.
The secondary LB emitters are slightly warmer tinted. Not unpleasantly, but they have a slight yellow cast that contrasts with the output from the center emitter.
Mode selection is odd, and a bit disappointing as it has no low modes.
1. Central LED on - good hotspot with reasonable throw
2. Outer LEDs on - Wider beam, but not floody enough
3. All three LEDS on - Not much use to this mode…
4. Strobe…
…and all modes have to be cycled through to turn the light off.
My hope is to eventually replace the TIRs on the side emitters with some wider angle optics to make the secondary mode more floody. I haven’t measured to verify yet, but the cheap 25/45/60-degree optics available from FT and other sources appear to be the same size when the ring is removed. That would give me a dedicated throw mode, and a dedicated flood mode, all from the same headlamp.
I may also consider replacing the side emitters with High-CRI Nichia emitters, but that’s not a high priority.
Also… Three Thousands posts!
Congrats!
-Garry
