P60 Drop-in with XR-E which are at 1.5A or more.

Anybody knows any P60 XR-E which are run incredibly hard?

Cant say that I've seen one but would be easy enough to build with a Nanjg 101-AK wouldn't it?

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-133/**NEW**-3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit/Detail

that one with one extra 7135 welded on would give you 1.75A which should drive an XR-e to its breaking point.

I noticed the same thing as Triker and Bob it doesn't matter how much the driver is rated for the emitter maxes out at some point. I bought 5 Ultrafire A30Bs to covert to XML they have a one mode direct drive driver 1.3 amps is max it will deliver to the stock Q5 emitter just changing the emitter to a XML nothing else changed and it delivers over 3 amps same driver. So you could run any driver over 1.4 amps and max out an XR-E.

Solarforce Purple 3-4.2v drop in

can you please give link for this droppin Old , as on SF site all I can find is .8-4.2 v 4.2 - 8.4 v and 4-18 v no 3-4.2 droppin I can find

Are you saying this one bro?

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=10&id=37

Ok so it gets limited by voltage. I know, even my 1.2A dereelight pill drops in output like 10% when it hits 4.05V. What about 2-cell operation? Yep of course it would be overdriven, i just gunned my Sky Ray 3800 to do well over 3500L (I estimated 3800L and with good reason from the lux meter) at the emitters....no driver just brute force. (but with special active cooling)

Actually it is not for me, but for another guy at CPF.

I am curious how many volts did you direct drive the 3 emitters at.

Fully charged 12V 7AH, 13.3-13.4V no load pretty standard. My that particular SLA drops to 12.1V with a 100W HID ballast, which takes in 96W measured (efficiency prob ~ 80W, that is in line with the other guys' experiences). 55W ballast would be ~12.6V. When I was measuring voltage of the battery, for the initial 5s or so, it does see 13 over volts.

For that particular run I connected my PSU cum charger (output is variable/tunable and can do max of 14.9V for charging, but i slowly ramped it up, rated at 20A so lots of buffer juice) to the batt so as not to let it sag as much. I was more interested in the current, which did 5-5.2A thereabouts and it was varying a bit. I was expecting the SLA to act as a "buffer". If you can do about low 15V with a 4S Li-Co, it'd take in 8A.

I know quite some of the laser diodes/drivers are not happy with PSUs esp the cheap wall warts variety. I somewhat killed my 1.7W 445nm this way (now only left with a 1.2W 445 LOL!)

So better be safe, the Sky Ray in DD is more fun than a 1600L OTF flashlight, trust me! The fun is more worth it than the $52 asking price.

I just wasn't sure if one direct drive XML likes 4 volts at 3 amps does 3 like 12 volts at 3 amps or 4 volts at 9 amps to get those kind of numbers.

Well what I noticed is that such extreme cooling changes the whole game too in both lumens efficacy as well as electrical characteristics. Seriously it is all in series and i'd need to measure at the emitters, not sure what kind of voltage drop too at that point. I don't think they like it because at ~ 0 deg for the aluminum, they did break twice, think its them bond wires inside. Emitter's back at 140 deg C, 30 deg C for the alu drop to 0 deg is not a lot. But the drop to -80 deg C is a lot more in the whole scheme of things.

LN may not pull that much more heat and cool even though it is even colder and has higher specific heat capacity, you must avoid the leidenfrost effect else it might even be detriment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSXGlhrtamI&playnext=1&list=PLE6A1EA4F942A0791

I'll test tonight and see whether the LED pulls more voltage/current when it is cooled.

Actually I did mention the voltage under load for a 100W HID ballast to be in the region of 12.0-12.1V, which is easily more power than most would be gunning around in this forum. When the ballast powers up it stayed at 10A+ and drops below 10A only after 10 plus seconds after the bulb gets somewhat heated up....power! 55W to be 12.5-12.6V. I just mentioned the no load voltage of a fully charged Pb SLA for your reference.

BTW, Pb SLAs do not really sag that much and can provide quite a lot of current. I managed to power up the same 100W ballast and let it run for a few minutes with just a 12V 2.3AH SLA, but of course do not try that yourself as it is quite hard for the battery. The good thing is that a 12V 7AH costs $18 here (usd15). Some marine batteries give you so much current that it is crazy. Some NiMH D can give you 50A.

Oldbobk, hehe...actually I did also connect a PSU so that it'd maintain a bit of charge to the battery so that it would not sag too much, that PSU is 20A rated so definitely it would not allow it to sag too much definitely not close to 12V. I think the voltage must be on the side closer to 13V than 12V. I wish I have a 3rd or 4th hand, esp with trying to keep the head being frozen stiff by adjusting the fan, making sure all the connections are solid and doing a current reading which was what i was interested in. And lastly trying to do it ASAP because of the fear that it'd go poof. heh heh....