Don’t forget the discount codes! Be sure to order items separately to get the discounts on both flashlight and tube as only one code can be used at a time.
I could set you up with the same driver I used in DL’s. It’s a direct swap, no more difficult than the emitter swap & wiring it direct drive…
It’s a “direct drive” FET driver with a combo tail clicky / side button UI. I’m interested in getting them into more lights, it’s a new driver but is heavily tested. Thing is only a handful of people are using them thus far, it’s all open source so the more people using it and providing feedback the better for the community.
Since its a DD driver the current is limited only by the cells and the resistance in the path’s (so same with true direct drive you’ll need to ensure the springs are bypassed and have good high amp IMR cells for max brightness). Depending on your cells and how well you can increase the current path (don’t forget the tail switch it’s self) you’ll see around 10+A (I can turn this down for you in the code if it’s to high)
No, the factory switches are just normal (tail is a standard clicky that cut’s power, side is a typical momentary push button that provides a simple GND signal to the driver’s MCU which based on the timing and number of clicks does different things). A “dd” driver is a driver with no regulator, it’s simple a MOSFET (which is like a logic controlled relay but with no electromechanical parts) controlled by an MCU and with just a couple other components for the very simple circuit to run. It can be fully on, in which it only adds a few mohm’s of resistance in line, so its about 99% as much power as hooking the cell straight to the LED, but it can be PWM’d to provide modes and do strobe and such which obviously direct drive cant do.
5A off a pair of KP 5200’s is no problem, those cells can easily do twice that, infact hooking them up direct drive WILL do much much higher than that, if you dont want a straight up monster (which can quickly get to hot to hold and even so hot it burns its self up) true direct drive is not the way to go.
For a good mix of flood and throw with an MT-G2, I think the Dipper D19 (Convoy L2 clone) beats the Yezl Y3.
I have built an MT-G2 in a Yezl Y3 using the default driver, no other mods, and it is floody. The D19 build, not built yet, will be using a resistor modded LD-40 to around 4A.
Just an update for all you and thank all of you on this site for the great info and advice. A lot of reading and discoveries.
So, I ended up doing my MTG2 direct drive build with great success in a 2D Maglite w/LED stock deep reflector.
The IMR 26650 keepowers fit perfect with shorter tailcap spring. Simple 1in PVC tube cut to hold the cells in place.
I got a flat universal heatsink and this puppy pulls 4.5A at the tailcap. This is with stock switch and no resistance addressed on stock Maglite switch yet.
Side note: I do have a JaxZ1 zoom light with zener mod and 2*26650’s and it pulls on high mode 4A at tailcap. However this light appears around 50% less bright than my direct drive Maglite build. I figure the Aspheric is at fault here and perhaps this JaxZ1 is better suited with a XPG2 or something like that.