[WIP] 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM

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giorgoskok
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Yes , i had some problems with the Bistro and attiny25 but now everything is fine .
Made 6 drivers past month , all working great .

finges
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Have a look at this thread for the latest linear driver, it should also work with 13A but you would loose the third PWM channel.

“ The Texas Avenger Driver series – FET + 1 + 6+ triple channel + Bistro + one driver for all your lights! “:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48447

tech
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R3 : 100 k
R4 : 47 ohm
C2 : 0.1 uF

While the TA driver is a great design it would need the above listed additional parts though.

Is it possible to leave the battery side empty (the one with the 6×7135 bank) on the TA series? actually, I might ask that on the other thread.

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I would be happy to buy the Attiny25 but I don’t have the other missing parts (R3, R4 or C2 and the rest). Since I buy most of my parts directly from China it would take either too long or the item might get lost (happened before with my resistors).

Was hoping that someone has tested the V32 of the PCB (link: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/N0qhFri4 ) or whether it is comparable with the MTN 17DD?

pilotdog68
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Is there a reason why you want that particular version of this board? Earlier versions were very well-tested but I don’t think that one is.

The TexasAvenger board can be used with the “older” parts list, but it is limited by the firmware. Currently there’s only one solid FW that works with that board.

Richard at Mtn uses his own layout and parts on his newest designs

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 – Since I am new to building drivers myself I thought the latest version would be the best. Apologies if that is not the case. I also checked the Oshpark projects @ BLF thread but I don’t know whether all drivers are in there (must be a ton of work to track all of that as well).

All I have is a hotplate to reflow solder the board, hence single-side only? I don’t know how to reflow a board with a hot plate / skillet and I can’t afford a SMD hot air rework station. Can I leave the TexasAvenger driver empty on one side (the one with all the 7135 chips). I read a little bit through the details and wasn’t sure which channel goes to the FET and which one to the 1×7135.

my plan was to flash standard .hex files and not change anything (but I could try to do that too).

bmwsancho
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i have ordered the v32 board linked above and will report back after they have arrived. Unfortunately I also had to order a few parts – it will easily take 3-4 weeks to get everything and I’ll need to find time on a weekend to build/assemble. I don’t know how close this version is to the BLF 17DD driver but it is a Fet+1 I am after. haven’t ordered any FETs yet – not sure which one to go for.. there are so many now.

giorgoskok
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Sir800dp is the no.1 for me.

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Thank you, all. I will try to order and build it. worst thing that can happen is that I will be out of the money for the boards. But I am hopeful that they will work out.

nofear87
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Does attiny25 work out of the box with this board? Or should I change/add some components? Thank you!

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nofear87 wrote:
Does attiny25 work out of the box with this board?

Yes… ish.

This design is prone to voltage spikes when the amps are high, which is fine on the attiny13 but can cause spontaneous reboots on more sensitive chips like the attiny25. So, it’s recommended to keep the amps under ~4 or so, or use a newer driver design with the voltage spike issue fixed.

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Thanks TK! Which single side design you would prefer? (double down is enough for me).

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I usually order RMM’s drivers from MtnElectronics.com.

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TA drivers have a 4.7 Ohms resistor in series with the diode and a 0.1uF cap directly on the MCU to get rid of the turbo spike problem

nofear87
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I usually order RMM’s drivers from MtnElectronics.com.

They look good. But shipping to germany is a little bit expensive.

Lexel wrote:
TA drivers have a 4.7 Ohms resistor in series with the diode and a 0.1uF cap directly on the MCU to get rid of the turbo spike problem

Thanks Lexel, you already explained it to me in the TA thread. But you also said that there are some things todo to get it working as double down. So I searching another driver.

I found this updated version (v32): https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/N0qhFri4

I looks like he also added the necessary resistors to fix the attiny25 problem with high currents?

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Is there a diagram or schematic available for the current driver shipping in the blf A6?

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The A6 driver doesn’t have issues with high powered triples or quads, works fine as is.

The X6 driver with Bistro is the one that needs some fine tuning when running a triple high power.

d_t_a
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DB Custom wrote:
The A6 driver doesn’t have issues with high powered triples or quads, works fine as is.

The X6 driver with Bistro is the one that needs some fine tuning when running a triple high power.

I’d like to ask if there are links to possible solutions for the Bistro/X6 driver when planning to run with a high-powered triple?

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djozz posted pics of a “pyramid” fix that DEL recommened, not so hard to implement and it works well… not at my own computer (and may have lost it there as well due to some recent issues that made have to do a clean install) but if you give djozz a shout out I’m sure he’d be happy to point you to the fix.

Memory dictates (yeah, I know, could be way off base) a 100hz resistor was triangulated with the C1 and diode. This was done by removing the C1 and diode, using the outer diode pad for the base of the new resistor, and leaning the three components together to form yhe pyramid. C1 sits on its normal outer pad, D1 sits on it’ normal inner pad, the three connect on top.

A picture is worth a thousand words, it’s true. (got something wrong about that resistor, not sure what but I’m getting flags on how I wrote that, either the 100 or the hz is not right, dang memory!)

Ask djozz…..

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FWIW, the Mtn FET+1 drivers already have the fix implemented. IIRC, so do some other recent BLF designs, like Texas_Ace’s drivers. There’s a resistor added to take the edge off FET pulses and mostly eliminate the ringing which caused the problems.

The issue is that wight’s design had some pretty strong feedback when the FET shut off. The attiny13 chip could handle it, but tiny25 and above can’t, so they get knocked over by the wave and reboot.

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I think the thing here is that people all over the world have easy access to the X6 driver or A6 driver from Banggood, whereas it costs dearly to have Richard ship overseas. Easier to apply the fix to the cheap driver that’s more readily available.

I forget so much it’s like starting over every time I go to build something, lol. A recent computer issue made me do a clean install of Windows and I lost everything I’d downloaded, I had a copy of my C drive but some of that is outdated and it’s difficult for me to remember what to do, where to look, just what’s missing. Surely like starting from scratch, and what a PITA that is! lol

I was out of most of my driver supplies so I ordered new boards and new components. I saw Wight’s Rev 30 board and ordered some, only to find out that he’d made a few mistakes and there’s a Rev 32 that is more solid. Facepalm The boards aren’t even here yet, and I have to try to remember that R1 and R2 are marked opposite, as well as the +1 chip not being hooked up, needs to be air bridged… geesh. I bet when I tried that board back when he implemented it I never saw where he said he’d goofed, I never got it working. lol And here I go again, starting over. Woe is me! Silly

Edit: I also ordered 30 SIR800DP MOSFET’s, forgot I like the SIR404DP better. Ugh…

giorgoskok
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DB Custom wrote:
Edit: I also ordered 30 SIR800DP MOSFET’s, forgot I like the SIR404DP better. Ugh…

What about the SIRA20DP ? Big Smile

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The A00DP doesn’t work well, this I know… the A20DP? Not sure. But the specs indicate the 404 is the best and I’ve had quite a bit of provenance with it, not as much as with the 800 of course as I’ve used hundreds of those (literally) but when it comes down to the extra little bit more, the 404 is where it’s at.

Edit: Ironic, isn’t it? I mean, that I find these MOSFET’s to power my lights so well when they are from Vishay-DALE? Big Smile

gchart
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A little late to the party, but here’s djozz’s fix info:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1061998#comment-1061998

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