Ultrafire F13 at $11.39 - with Coupon Code - Gearbest

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wight
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newuser01 wrote:
Thanks everyone for info on this light.

Seems a good deal even for a noob who will likely not do any mods on it? (may be exception of thermal paste).

Thinking about just plug and play cheap and reliable light. And I love the convoy S2. Would this light compare well to the convoy S2?

Not really. The S2 is better machined, better assembled, and has a much better driver.

I would not call this either “plug and play” or “reliable”. It’s a nice inexpensive mod host and playground in this form factor.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Fritz t. Cat
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Mine has been working reliably. I only added heat sink compound today. The fit and finish of mine is very good. It uses resistors instead of current regulator chips to control the current, but that is not a serious problem unless you want very high output. I expect to retire it soon, only because it is not a zoomy. I don’t have a Convoy to compare it to, or intend to get one.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

newuser01
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wight wrote:
I would not call this either “plug and play” or “reliable”. It’s a nice inexpensive mod host and playground in this form factor.
Thank you for quick reply. I will look else where such as “roche-f6”.
Cheers

Noob who want some lights!

Contra Costa County, CA

WarHawk-AVG
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newuser01 wrote:
Thanks everyone for info on this light.

Seems a good deal even for a noob who will likely not do any mods on it? (may be exception of thermal paste).

Thinking about just plug and play cheap and reliable light. And I love the convoy S2. Would this light compare well to the convoy S2?


Not the same type of platform, the F13 is more like the C8, the S2 is a slimmer EDC style more floody than throwy type light (shorter thinner reflector unlike the C8 or F13 wide long reflector)

Have you tried the spring bypass yet for more current? (aka soldering braid wick or a 22ga or thicker wire from the top of the spring to the bottom of the spring for better current flow)

processengr
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I received a prompt response and promise of a replacement XML2 F13 for the XML-T6 I received.

No one notices when things are going right

processengr
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Thanks OL!
I modded the XML-T6 per your posts (braided springs, moved + wire, sanded down reflector spacer, etc) Now it rocks!! Smile

No one notices when things are going right

gamezawy
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I have bought like 14x from this light

Deputydave
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Old-Lumens wrote:
What you said is correct. Thermal paste is needed for all of them, as none of them have any. I use Arctic Alumina, but Fujik or others will work. Any paste for CPUs will work.

Quick question on this (to OL or anyone); I’ve haven’t yet gotten into any modding, though it sounds interesting and a lot of fun. Do all lights need this thermal paste or just certain ones? For example, I have lights like the Sipik SK68 and SK98 as well as the TF A8 and now the F13’s are on the way (as well as various no-name lights from different sources). Would it be advisable to put thermal paste on all of these types of CREE LED lights? And if so, is there a good instructional vid to look at to know where and how much and any other tips and tricks? This sounds like something that I need to learn to do but want to learn to do it right.

Thank you Smile

Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us

steve-o
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Thx OL! Just ordered 1. $9 bucks and you can’t go wrong!!

ruffles
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Deputydave wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:
What you said is correct. Thermal paste is needed for all of them, as none of them have any. I use Arctic Alumina, but Fujik or others will work. Any paste for CPUs will work.

Quick question on this (to OL or anyone); I’ve haven’t yet gotten into any modding, though it sounds interesting and a lot of fun. Do all lights need this thermal paste or just certain ones? For example, I have lights like the Sipik SK68 and SK98 as well as the TF A8 and now the F13’s are on the way (as well as various no-name lights from different sources). Would it be advisable to put thermal paste on all of these types of CREE LED lights? And if so, is there a good instructional vid to look at to know where and how much and any other tips and tricks? This sounds like something that I need to learn to do but want to learn to do it right.

Thank you Smile

Paste is an absolute must. The thinner the layer, the better. Most lights come with it already… you’d be able to see a white-ish paste oozing out from under the star if there’s enough there. Dunno about videos, but just be sure you don’t let the reflector short out the leads going to the star when you reassemble.


 

wight
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ruffles wrote:
Deputydave wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:
What you said is correct. Thermal paste is needed for all of them, as none of them have any. I use Arctic Alumina, but Fujik or others will work. Any paste for CPUs will work.

Quick question on this (to OL or anyone); I’ve haven’t yet gotten into any modding, though it sounds interesting and a lot of fun. Do all lights need this thermal paste or just certain ones? For example, I have lights like the Sipik SK68 and SK98 as well as the TF A8 and now the F13’s are on the way (as well as various no-name lights from different sources). Would it be advisable to put thermal paste on all of these types of CREE LED lights? And if so, is there a good instructional vid to look at to know where and how much and any other tips and tricks? This sounds like something that I need to learn to do but want to learn to do it right.

Thank you Smile

Paste is an absolute must. The thinner the layer, the better. Most lights come with it already… you’d be able to see a white-ish paste oozing out from under the star if there’s enough there. Dunno about videos, but just be sure you don’t let the reflector short out the leads going to the star when you reassemble.

For more information look into CPU heatsinks in the PC community, but ruffles has really covered all your bases already.

One way to apply a grease type TIM (thermal interface material) is this:

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Deputydave
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Okay, thank you both. Looks like I’ll have a little project to do with my lights.

Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us

Deputydave
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Received both of the F13’s I ordered in the OP. That was 18 days in transit which isn’t that bad. It comes with an 18650 sleeve and a 3xAAA holder which is nice to have those two items included. I tested both out with a Trustfire Flame 26650. The hot spot is tighter than the A8 that I have so it puts a bit more light into a smaller more focused area. The spill isn’t quite as bright as the A8 but still quite bright. What this means is the throw seems to be even farther than the A8 while the overall lumens looks to be similar. I have no way to measure lumens but it is easily as bright as the A8 overall. The O-ring is glow-in-the-dark which is also a nice feature.

Overall it is a really nice light and for $9 an incredible deal. It is slightly larger in length than the A8 and the front have is larger in diameter. I’ll probably still carry the A8 as my primary deep woods light, but it will be a hard choice. The determining factor may be if it fits in the zippered pouch on top of my hiking bag or not. But it will make an outstanding back up.

I really appreciate the heads up on this deal, thanks OL Smile

Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us

wight
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Deputydave wrote:
Received both of the F13’s I ordered in the OP. That was 18 days in transit which isn’t that bad. It comes with an 18650 sleeve and a 3xAAA holder which is nice to have those two items included. I tested both out with a Trustfire Flame 26650. The hot spot is tighter than the A8 that I have so it puts a bit more light into a smaller more focused area. The spill isn’t quite as bright as the A8 but still quite bright. What this means is the throw seems to be even farther than the A8 while the overall lumens looks to be similar. I have no way to measure lumens but it is easily as bright as the A8 overall. The O-ring is glow-in-the-dark which is also a nice feature.

Overall it is a really nice light and for $9 an incredible deal. It is slightly larger in length than the A8 and the front have is larger in diameter. I’ll probably still carry the A8 as my primary deep woods light, but it will be a hard choice. The determining factor may be if it fits in the zippered pouch on top of my hiking bag or not. But it will make an outstanding back up.

I really appreciate the heads up on this deal, thanks OL Smile

For a $9 light you might as well do the ‘standard’ mods at least. (Move LED+ wire, pencil the capacitor, and bypass the springs if you’re feeling daring.) That might tip the balance. Wink

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

fireblade893
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fireblade893 wrote:
Antenne wrote:
That’s strange.. Got mine today too. But on the outside it says “XML-T6” – and that’s what’s inside – so it seems. It is only an older XML with green top, 3 bond wires and 6 stripes. On a grey star with no other text than +/- signs on it. Let’s see what the customer service has to say about that…

Did you get a reply from customer service?

I received mine today and it also has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf)

I have to say I am impressed with the customer service at Gearbest. They sent the wrong model (XML-T6) I contacted customer services to tell them, they said keep it and we will send the correct one out and today it arrived with the correct XML2, not sure what bin definitely cool white but much nicer than the blue white of the XML and as a bonus a bit brighter.

Very good service that I would say and I will use them again after this Smile

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Just ordered 2 more.. surprisingly the code is still working.. now just hope they send me the XM-L2 version Silly

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

Deputydave
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Code still works, just ordered two more. Going to mod the first two so now I’ll be able to compare to a stock version.

Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us

ruffles
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Credit where credit is due… I ordered 2 of these; got one xm-l, the other xm-l2. Started a ticket with GB, upped photos, they volunteered to send a replacement, and I got it reasonably quickly. Relatively painless. (My experience with most other tickets with Chinese vendors is that they seem to take repeated explanations to get to a good conclusion.)

So, respect to GB.


 

processengr
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processengr wrote:
I received a prompt response and promise of a replacement XML2 F13 for the XML-T6 I received.

I received mine quickly, the proper XLM2. Good experience with GB. BTW, the lightly modded XLM (moved battery wire, bypass springs, 22 ga wire) outshines the stock XLM2.

No one notices when things are going right

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Waiting over a month for mine and still, nothing.My tracking # never worked either and it was sent by Netherlands Post.Oh well, as soon as CNY is over I will contact them.

Deputydave
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DARCANGEL wrote:

Waiting over a month for mine and still, nothing.My tracking # never worked either and it was sent by Netherlands Post.Oh well, as soon as CNY is over I will contact them.

My first order was 22 days (shipped on 1/9/15 arrived 1/30/15). Placed a second order on 2/10/15 and still waiting for it (but only been 10 days). Hopefully it will arrive soon for you, waiting can be a test of patience sometimes. Still waiting on orders from Fasttech, DX and Ali.

O’well, like Christmas when they do show up. Only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys :bigsmile:

Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us

wedlpine
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Ordered mine on 01/20/15 and received them on 02/17/15. Works great on my DST. Both of them are XM-L2. Now if I could only find tube that will fit on my 3D Defiant light that fits a 32650

Deputydave
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What is people’s opinions of the drivers these F13’s come with? What is the size of the driver? Since I’m gaining experience with (or at least getting my feet wet) modding I’m thinking of changing a driver. I’ve replaced one star already with a 20mm Notigon XML U2 and have a second Notigon going into my second F13. I ordered two more that haven’t arrived yet but thought it would be interesting to have a one or two stock F13’s and then play with the other two in various ways to see what happens, what I like and foremost to get experience in doing various mods.

I was thinking of something like this: QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER – 17mm as I’m looking at using it in one or two SK98’s I have coming. Just unsure of the driver size at the moment. If this looks good, how many 7135 chips would ‘you’ go with? As with the SK98’s I’d like to have one bright and one max run time.

Thoughts welcome Smile

Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us

LED Boatguy
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Deputydave wrote:
What is people’s opinions of the drivers these F13’s come with? What is the size of the driver?

I have not been here long enough to have an opinion. The board is an oddball size of 22mm, which I why I bought this light so I can build and program this driver for it. I wish light makers would get away from the relatively tiny 17mm driver and go bigger.

I sure hope the LED is still loose (or at least poorly glued) to the shelf, as it is a cool white (which I hate), and must be replaced. Since the shelf is located deep in the body, it could be a bear to get out.

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LED Boatguy wrote:
Deputydave wrote:
What is people’s opinions of the drivers these F13’s come with? What is the size of the driver?

I have not been here long enough to have an opinion. The board is an oddball size of 22mm, which I why I bought this light so I can build and program this driver for it. I wish light makers would get away from the relatively tiny 17mm driver and go bigger.

I sure hope the LED is still loose (or at least poorly glued) to the shelf, as it is a cool white (which I hate), and must be replaced. Since the shelf is located deep in the body, it could be a bear to get out.


Most F13’s the star is loose, held down by the reflector

they are VERY good lights…go with a XM-L2, T6-4C for a good neutral tint…very very light creme tint to it but very smooth, my favorite tint

pyro1son
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For a price like that I had to order one of these. Can’t wait for it to turn up!

Pastebin                                      &nbs

LED Boatguy
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:

they are VERY good lights…go with a XM-L2, T6-4C for a good neutral tint…very very light creme tint to it but very smooth, my favorite tint

That 4C is a nice tint and I’ve used hundreds of em in the big lights I used to make (with one red thrown in for CRI), but I’m a warm white guy when it comes to flashlights. I’ve always liked the 7 series tints for flashlights, giving up some lumens for tint and CRI. Cree has announced 90+CRI WW bins, but they appear to be vaporware so far. I got a nice 6A2 XM-L2 from Mountain, but I really like the 7s.

This light is going to take a while to finish, as this will be my first attempt at flashing a MCU. The flashing stuff is on order, but from what I’ve read, that’s the easy part.

WarHawk-AVG
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You got bit by the bug….didncha Wink

BLightSam
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Most F13’s the star is loose, held down by the reflector

they are VERY good lights…go with a XM-L2, T6-4C for a good neutral tint…very very light creme tint to it but very smooth, my favorite tint

Where do you select XM-L2, T6-4C?
LED Boatguy
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
You got bit by the bug….didncha Wink

I’ve been bit for quite some time now. Been building stuff since the early 2000s. Shoot, I replaced my kitchen’s T-12 fluorescents with spare WW and high CRI LEDs, powered by Xitanium mains drivers back (I think) in 2009 and after a few thousand hours they are still going strong. Probably helped that I mounted the LEDs on aluminum channels and have 40mm fans blowing down said channels.

Anyways, I ordered a half dozen 22mm 12*7135 drivers from OSH. We’ll see how it powers this flashlight. This light, at a regulated 4 amps and less with a warm white XM-L2 could be a nice combo.

It feels good to be back in the saddle. I haven’t touched my flashlights (other than to use them) or other electronics since I sold the business 5 or so years ago. Now I’m starting over—with zero inventory and a lot fewer production tools.

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