well i got my order from Richard over at Mountain Electronics. 5000K MT-G2, 22mm fet driver. copper braided tailcap spring. running currently off 2 laptop battery pull Samsung 18650 with 26650 spacer tubes. have some unprotected 26650s on order. light turned out awesome till i accidentally de domed it. didnt make hole in centering ring big enough and when it was on it cracked the dome and after a little bit of running and heat it finally came off. oh well, got another mt-g ordered so i will fix the ring and put it back together. took the phospor and all. light still works but its like ultraviolet now. haha. anyway heres some pics and a video
It looks like a UFO where your moving it around on the wall near the end of the video. I've never been game to dedome an MTG-2 so looks like you have nearly perfected that as well. The tint must look different in real life compared to the pictures and video. Thanks for sharing.
oh well. like i said i just ordered another mt-g2 so i will fix it, but this actually still throws well and is pretty bright. i had no clue what it would even do with no phosphor left
i was looking at that tuesday before i even had the parts here. haha. if i decide to actually de dome the next one i will use that. if i would have just spent a little more time on centering ring that would not have happened.
I built the same light about a week ago (minus the accidental dedome). If the correction factor of my light pipe is in the ballpark I’m getting about 3600 lumens at startup and about 3200 at 30 seconds.
It was a fun experiment, now I just need to sell it. I’m fan of throwers over flooders. On the next two I will be back to XP-G2’s and resistors to run at 4 amps.
Edit: I also replaced the switch in the MT-G2 build with the 6A eBay switch tested by a member on this site (can’t remember right now).
With a UV pass filter it could indeed be a very low efficiency UV light. I don’t know how much of the light would be at the correct wavelength, but probably a few percent. (that is a WAG, probably wrong, and definitely not formed on any actual data, accept as fact at your own risk)
its actually close enough to uv that a piece of neon green string glows slightly like it would under uv. and it makes glow in the dark stuff glow instantly.
before the dedome, combating the city lights, it is actually pretty bright here. i could just barely see the light on a sign that google maps says is 1900 feet in a straight line. after the dedome i think it still goes just as far. say if it was doing 3600 lumens before, id say it is still maybe 2600
Whoa! Cool, not what I was expecting. With it still having so much visible light I’m sticking to my tongue in cheek comment above. I’m guessing it can’t be more than a minimal percentage that is in the UV spectrum. Perhaps that’s where the missing visible lumens went? 10% or so, with the rest lost to the reduced apparent emitter size?
this is a 501B with cheap ebay UV drop in and a Solarforce L2-CL1 convex lens
side by side
now as for brightness, it may be less than what i said, but here is a side by side with a PflexPRO built solarforce L2P running a 4.35v battery that is probably down to 3.7 v at the moment. the Z1 it actually brighter, but because of how white of a tint the L2P is it makes the Z1 seem less bright in a pic.
it always turns out more purple in pictures than it actually is, but it is definently more violet than the z1. the z1 does not have much violet. its just a nice shade of blue. at least i think it looks nice.
The tint must look different in real life compared to the pictures and video. Thanks for sharing.
