Got my hands on a flooded light and will modify it to red and white LED. It measures 153 X 62 mm and uses a 3 X 18650 pack.
Light arrived and the circuit board was a bit fried. Might be able to use the switch and battery connector. 2 out of 3 cells was dead in pack so it will get new Pana NCR18650B. Now need to decide to go with 3.7 in parallel or 11.1 in series. Plan to use a magnetic reed for switch and seal the holes.
Here’s the reed switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201142773586?\_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Lower button will be modded with a magnet inside and attached with a chord so it can be taken off and not lost.
Emitter will be a Cree XM-L2 1100LM 4000-4300K driven by a 3000 mA Buck.
No optics is needed.
The cell replacement is easy, battery pack fits FIX 1000 & 1500 LED also. There’s 2 pieces of tape covering 4 clips. remove the tape, pry the clips and the cover opens up. Some double stick tape holds cells to cover. 3 Panasonic NCR18650B (spot welded tabs) means 3400 mAh instead of 1950 (old version) and 2400 (new version).
Magnetic switch is soldered to old board and works great. Now just waiting for driver and emitter to arrive. When all is finished will get some pics, now this thread is pretty worthless 8)
This sounds like you have an interesting project going on here roglbk. Do you have any more pictures you can post up for us simple folk?
Original board with battery contacts is used, added a magnetic reed switch to it. the emitter ‘XM-L2 T5-5A2’ and 3A Buck Driver is on a 50 mm alu disc. it had to be sanded down to 48 mm and a slot cut to fit the body. All the rest is original stuff, old orings are good but added one to bottom of lid.
Switch is not working properly, light is still turned on when magnet is removed. Will put in a N/C reed instead which is closed until a magnet breaks the contact.
The N/C switch is also “Max. Switching Current 0.5A” so wonder if this will solve the problem. Will probably have to attach the switch somewhere else, now its between the battery and driver.
Is there any place on this driver where it could be attached?
N/C switch works great, light is on until the magnet is attached. Also upgraded to five 3W Epileds instead of the XM-L2. Will get some shots later.