KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread

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Agro
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kikkoman wrote:
Agro wrote:
Yes, but this is a banggod shop.

I don’t know what you’re finding, but I see it as ‘jiguoor’ and ‘Elfeland’.


Both Elfeland and jiguoor are just banggood.
Umpi2000
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What single small optic or even a 20mm reflector is there for XHP50.2? And a driver to run3-4 of them in a mag light type host.
Anyone got any advise? Don’t know if I should run 4 triplets instead…?

acab
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you could use a 5×5 TIR optic and a compatible DTP MCPCB for each emitter you would like to use.

edit:
If this goes into a mag you may need spacers. They are bigger lights and I don’t know how big the largest optics are.

Barkuti
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Maybe tad off-topic, but related question.

You seem busy trying to pair optics with MCPCBs. How important actually is this? 0K, I sort of smell you are going to say “quite a lot” or in the likes. If so, asking the MCPCB seller/provider/manufacturer can be a good starting point.

I wonder how “good” would a wide hole optic, real wide (≈11mm) I mean, fit with frankenquad MCPCBs. I really like those MCPCBs, affordable and widespread. They just need some optic love, I mean, some optics specifically designed for them.

 

Smile 

contactcr
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Barkuti wrote:

Maybe tad off-topic, but related question.


You seem busy trying to pair optics with MCPCBs. How important actually is this? 0K, I sort of smell you are going to say “quite a lot” or in the likes. If so, asking the MCPCB seller/provider/manufacturer can be a good starting point.


I wonder how “good” would a wide hole optic, real wide (≈11mm) I mean, fit with frankenquad MCPCBs. I really like those MCPCBs, affordable and widespread. They just need some optic love, I mean, some optics specifically designed for them.


 


Smile 

https://www.ledil.com/search/?leds%5B%5D=COB&lesmin=10&lesmax=12&q=

Just look for COB optics. It’s essentially a bootleg version of that anyways

Noir
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BanL wrote:
Noir wrote:

Hi BanL, can you please look into Order #4512, I'm still waiting for the refund for the 4 XHP70.2 LEDs that where not delivered. I have sent several emails in the last 4 or 5 weeks, but got no reply to any of them.

Hi Noir Does this 4 LEDs changed to refund to you? I will ask my colleague to take a look. Thank you Ban

Hi Ban,

I was told (by one of your colleagues) that the XHP70.2 LEDs that I ordered were out of stock and given the option to change to a different LED or get a refund. I chose the refund (that was about 5 weeks ago), but I haven't received any reply (or the refund) since. I have sent a couple of emails after that, but got no reply either.

I think it will be clear if you have a look at the emails.

Umpi2000
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acab wrote:
you could use a 5×5 TIR optic and a compatible DTP MCPCB for each emitter you would like to use.

edit:
If this goes into a mag you may need spacers. They are bigger lights and I don’t know how big the largest optics are.

It’s a old SA police light so not exactly a mag light but I got it free and guess I gotta make something g of it. Hand grains a spacer that I will press fit then need to establish the exact height of the mcpcb/optic/reflector/lens so I can make another copper spacer for above that. Which 5×5 optic you seen? The head ID is not massive

acab
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https://www.ledil.com/support/guide-to-tir-lenses/
http://www.leddna.com/10-degree-21mm-reflector-collimator-led-lens-for-c...

I have the led dna ones for my various S2+, they are good and have 5×5mm clearance. Never tried them with an XHP though, but they should work?

adam7027
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BanL wrote:
adam7027 wrote:
BanL wrote:
Hi Adam

For 90CRI, i think this is easier to get in approach to Warm White version.

It seems CREE is not willing to release high CRI version for 5000K +.

I will try to see any available tint for CREE XHP35 HI.

Thank you

Ban

Thank you for your efforts in advance.

Specifically for me, 4500K would be the best, but I am also interested in CCT around 5000K-6000K for 90 CRI.

Hi Adam

Sure

I will put in my mind.

Thank you for your information.

Ban

Hello Ban,

Could you find these emitters for sale?

Barkuti
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adam7027 wrote:

Could you find these emitters for sale?

Maybe this can be of help:

  1. XHP35A domed, U-C4-0E2 (CRI90+, flux C4, 0E2 chromaticity region: 5700K) @ Arrow Available in small quantities.
  2. XHP35A domed, U-C4-0E3 (CRI90+, flux C4, 0E3 chromaticity region: 5000K) @ Arrow 500 pieces minimum order right now.

Had A bookmarked since long ago, never got it back then.

 

adam7027
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Barkuti wrote:

Maybe this can be of help:

  1. XHP35A domed, U-C4-0E2 (CRI90+, flux C4, 0E2 chromaticity region: 5700K) @ Arrow Available in small quantities.
  2. XHP35A domed, U-C4-0E3 (CRI90+, flux C4, 0E3 chromaticity region: 5000K) @ Arrow 500 pieces minimum order right now.

Had A bookmarked since long ago, never got it back then.

 

As I said before, domed version is not for my current needs frown

Barkuti
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Wellp adam7027, problem is the majority of high power leds we use here are domed.
I recently found an interesting way of dedoming emitters. Quick and neat:

 

This is a Nichia 219B 4500K Ra9080.

Used 7 small, stacked 0.1mm copper sheet cuts over the MCPCB surface to adjust milling depth. Six 0.1mm sheet cuts ended up being too low for an LH351B.

 

Smile 

contactcr
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Are you going to sand it or leave it rough? Seems just as easy to slice it with a washer if you dont care about the top finish?

djozz
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My thought too: if you have your washer right, you may as well slice the dome with a razor blade and have a nice clean finish.

Barkuti
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I've cut a few XHP50As, using a big 1mm copper plate with a hole in the middle, sliding the blade atop. That way I do not obtain a fully level cut, it ends up being a slope. I can do a couple cuts from each side and obtain an 0K to look at low hill. But I do not like that much.

Concerning washer and razor blade cut dedoming, it works but I need a washer with the right thickness. I know washers are precisely sorted by diameter, but are they by thickness? And then there is the cut which, with a washer on top, I may need to slide the blade at an angle.

With the above method I can hot glue a bunch of emitters over the table, adjust the milling depth once and make short work of 'em. If the dome surfaces end up a bit coarse, so be it. 

 

djozz
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I have a set of 4 washers for slicing the LH351D, from thick to thin, starting with the thickest to slice off the top of the dome, working my way to the thinnest one that slices just above the phosfor. The thinnest one was sanded from a slightly too thick washer to the correct thickness. The blade must be kept at a fixed angle when doing the last cut, to get the cut level.

It does require reflowing the led flat against the ledboard, or you end up cutting into the phosfor.

everydaysurvivalgear
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Yea you can buy washer in different thicknesses i personally use nylon washers when slicing. Its easier to slice straight if the LED is on a new MCPCB.

I had another idea you can buy thickness gauges and drill a hole in each thickness. These are supposed to be precision tools but when buying online be weary i wouldn’t relay on one to tell me proper bore thickness lol. We use these to gauge thickness in engine walls and stuff but it can be used a general guide any where you can’t fit a caliper. Like a spark plug gap.

They look like this but i am not sure if these are wide enough i got a set in my tap and die kit but its a bit small i have seen much wider ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Metric-13-Blades-Feeler-Guage-0-05mm-1mm...

Barkuti
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Mmm those gauge blades can be very handy to adjust milling bit height precisely. Thanks for pinpointing this everydaysurvivalgear. I made a search and found bigger sets for more or less the same money:

Guess I can stack the blades, so not much of a big deal choosing one set over another. 

Doesn't it? 

 

Cheers Smile 

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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
Yea you can buy washer in different thicknesses i personally use nylon washers when slicing. Its easier to slice straight if the LED is on a new MCPCB.

I had another idea you can buy thickness gauges and drill a hole in each thickness. These are supposed to be precision tools but when buying online be weary i wouldn’t relay on one to tell me proper bore thickness lol. We use these to gauge thickness in engine walls and stuff but it can be used a general guide where any where you can’t fit a caliper. Like a spark plug gap.

They look like this but i am not sure if these are wide enough i got a set in my tap and die kit but its a bit small i have seen much wider ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Metric-13-Blades-Feeler-Guage-0-05mm-1mm...


You can make your own with shim stock and a shim punch or see if you can find what you want in precision shim packs..https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AwrJ6ytXOA1dQ.cAR2tXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDM...

I make my own having accsess to all kinds of shim stock (steel/plastic) and my Precision Brand Shim Punch.https://www.tequipment.net/Precision-Brand/40105/Punch-&-Die-Sets/?rrec=...

It’s also great for making many other things, like copper contacts,copper rings for spacers or driver adapters, glow vinyl dots, glow vinyl gaskets…

Another tool of my trade..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Hi BanL,

four months ago I got a 53mm dust cover for a flashlight that I measured to be 51mm instead. I sent an email with some fotos to you and was told they would pass them to the product support. I haven’t heard back anything since then. My order number was 2994 and I sent you the fotos on february 14th.

I ordered the dust cover with 53mm for my Cometa, but I couldn’t make it fit, even though it has been recommended somewhere here on BLF.

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

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Does anyone know the MCU on this driver?

The default UI looks useless, but the MCU looks like it could be an attiny85, so maybe it can be flashed with useful firmware.

gchart
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jasontheguitarist wrote:
Does anyone know the MCU on this driver?

The default UI looks useless, but the MCU looks like it could be an attiny85, so maybe it can be flashed with useful firmware.

That’s a no-go. The MCU is the 10-pin chip, probably a PIC. The larger 8-pin chip appears to be a FET.

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gchart wrote:
jasontheguitarist wrote:
Does anyone know the MCU on this driver?

The default UI looks useless, but the MCU looks like it could be an attiny85, so maybe it can be flashed with useful firmware.

That’s a no-go. The MCU is the 10-pin chip, probably a PIC. The larger 8-pin chip appears to be a FET.

Oh. Yea I was looking at the 8 pin chip. Well that’s a shame. Who would design a powerful driver like this to START on turbo?

Barkuti
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jasontheguitarist wrote:
… Who would design a powerful driver like this to START on turbo?

Its not about driver design. Its namely about whoever decides which software goes into the MCU, and the reasons behind. Likely many of these drivers are mainly software implemented for some sort of generic market or generic abroad market. The mode spacing in that driver is terrible, too.

 

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jasontheguitarist wrote:

Oh. Yea I was looking at the 8 pin chip. Well that’s a shame. Who would design a powerful driver like this to START on turbo?


The Chinese, It use to be alot worse than it is now but thanks to several contributing members here on BLF it’s becoming rare. At least most of them are making the strobes and flashes hidden after many years of complaining about them in the main UI.
BlueSwordM
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I always wonder why.

How come these Chinese software engineers can’t come up with good original UI ideas?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

moderator007
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Simple and not very well R&D is cheap. Complex and well designed is expensive which has to be added to the cost of each driver. The more time the software developers spend on a UI the more it cost. We are just very fortunate to have members who do this without asking for a dime or very little money.
I couldn’t even image the cost on the hours it took to develop Anduril.
Just my opinion. Big Smile

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No and @#$% no.

“Ask, and you will receive.”

The above quote refers to a manifestation technique, which in recap is entering a theta wave brainwave state of mind (actually easier than said) and then precisely sketching out whatever it is to be manifested.

But, did you ask? And what did you asked?

First of all we need to come up with a common goal. I think something can be done here, something sort of establishing a default for number of output modes and sequence order, preferred mode spacing, memory type and hidden strobe (if anything).

For example: 4 modes low to highest, 0.1%/5%/20%/100% mode spacing, off time memory, double tap strobe.

Off time memory definition: memorizes last used mode if disconnected from power more than x seconds. This can be pretty short, like 1 or 2 seconds, as usually a half tap to change mode lasts less than that.

By opening a thread where others can see and chip in, vendors included, and once the common goal is set the petition would be formulated. Once formulated people would enter into manifesting state and command/pray the request.

This actually works a lot better than you may think at first, no need to say this to those who know.

 

SKV89
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BlueSwordM wrote:
I always wonder why.

How come these Chinese software engineers can’t come up with good original UI ideas?

Because the driver designers are contracted and dont actually work for the flashlight company. Also the driver designer dont actually use the flashlight or any flashlights in general so they dont have a sense what a good UI should be like.

1stein
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3V XHP50.2 DEDOMED

New dedomed leds available at KD Thumbs Up Beer
(3V & 6V XHP50)

But there’s an error in 3V offer: no field for choosing mcpcb size and thus impossible to add to cart.
Can we have it fixed? Please? Innocent

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