Flashlight Firmware Repository

2156 posts / 0 new
Last post
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

18sixfifty wrote:
Tom E wrote:

I got a somewhat hidden strobe in a e-switch driver: …


Yep I have used that one and it’s great thanks. Anyway I can make that work on a clicky light?

Nope, clicky switch lights and e-switch lights need completely different firmware.
18sixfifty
18sixfifty's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 20:19
Posts: 4161

Thanks for the info toykeeper. I might have to give that H-M-L H-M-L strobe a try. That just might do it. I know I used that one before but I can’t remember exactly which one it was. I’ll go and look through them again.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

18sixfifty wrote:
Thanks for the info toykeeper. I might have to give that H-M-L H-M-L strobe a try. That just might do it. I know I used that one before but I can’t remember exactly which one it was. I’ll go and look through them again.

I don’t think any of them do that by default, but it should be a relatively easy change to write.
18sixfifty
18sixfifty's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 20:19
Posts: 4161
ToyKeeper wrote:
18sixfifty wrote:
Thanks for the info toykeeper. I might have to give that H-M-L H-M-L strobe a try. That just might do it. I know I used that one before but I can’t remember exactly which one it was. I’ll go and look through them again.
I don’t think any of them do that by default, but it should be a relatively easy change to write.

I think I should be able to figure it out. If it works out I’ll let you know. Thanks again

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

n10sivern
n10sivern's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 12 hours ago
Joined: 11/09/2014 - 21:37
Posts: 1520
Location: biloxi, ms

ok. I am completely lost. I have read every post on this thread and multiple other threads like this one and this one and this one. I am using a Mac, which makes it worse because most of the info is about using AVRDude. I downloaded Crosspack-AVR. I am unsure if there is anything else I need. Is there a step by step guide on how to do this programming? I read the info at Ladyada.net and I still don’t understand it at all. I saw a thread that had screenshots, but none of the pictures were viewable. I have built 2 of the USB devices to flash the MCU’s but I don’t even know how to properly test them. I have 20 Nanjg 101-AK-A1 that I want to change the firmware on and I have 20 separate Attiny13a’s that I’ve ordered just sitting there. Where is the guide for morons for this? I just want to do simple programs, but it seems I may have just wasted money. I don’t usually let stuff get to me, but I just can’t wrap my brain around this stuff.

Three tomatoes are walking down the street- a poppa tomato, a momma tomato, and a little baby tomato. Baby tomato starts lagging behind. Poppa tomato gets angry, goes over to the baby tomato, and smooches him… and says, Catch up.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

n10sivern wrote:
ok. I am completely lost. … I am using a Mac, … I downloaded Crosspack … Is there a step by step guide on how to do this programming?

I haven’t used a Mac, but I took a look at the ladyada tutorial and AvrMacPack (now CrossPack), and I think I might be able to explain it.

Basically, CrossPack (after being installed) gives you a setup very similar to what I’m using in Linux. This means you should have avr-gcc and avrdude and the other necessary tools, but you will need to use them all from a command line. Are you at all familiar with using a terminal?

You’ll also need a decent text editor. I hear TextMate, SublimeText, and Kod are good. I’m using Vim, and have also seriously used Emacs, but I wouldn’t suggest either one to start with.

You might also want to install bzr, so you can grab and update the sources automatically, make your own branches, etc.

If I understand correctly, after you have all the parts you need, the process would be something like this (bold means it happens in a terminal):

  • Download and unzip a copy of the firmware repository. Or just bzr branch lp:flashlight-firmware if you have bzr.
  • cd flashlight-firmware to change directory into the code tree.
  • Pick a project and cd into it, like cd ToyKeeper/blf-a6 . You can probably tab-complete most of the command line (type a couple letters then hit Tab and it’ll finish the rest if it’s unique).
  • Edit the code in a text editor.
  • Compile the code. ../../bin/build.sh blf-a6
  • Flash the code to an attiny: Type in ./flash-noinit.sh blf-a6.hex but don’t press Enter. Connect your clip to the attiny, plug it all in to USB, then hit Enter.

The build process and flashing script may vary from project to project.

I’d also recommend getting familiar with other common command line programs, but that’s mostly optional. I think all you really need is ‘cd’ and some scripts in the code repo and perhaps ‘make’ for projects which have a Makefile. Might be nice to use ‘ls’ or ‘ls -al’ too (list contents of the current directory, perhaps [a]ll files in [l]ong format), to avoid the need to switch to a file-browser window all the time.

chouster
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 4 hours ago
Joined: 02/20/2014 - 15:05
Posts: 690
Location: germany

hi again,

today I’m trying to flash the blf-a6.hex -file, but I’m getting an error. I’m trying it with a bare MCU, wanted to do that before soldering it to the driver board, don’t know if that makes a difference.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

I usually see the verification errors only if there’s a pin not connected during flashing. Six pins are required:

  • 1 RST
  • 4 GND
  • 5 MOSI
  • 6 MISO
  • 7 SCK
  • 8 VCC (don’t forget VCC, even though it’s not in bold in the table below)

BTW, it can still be flashed after soldering to the PCB… but only if you don’t have any extra pins grounded or stars soldered. I reflash MCUs on drivers all the time.

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6420
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Yeah I agree with TK, usually I only get that error if I bump it while flashing

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chouster
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 4 hours ago
Joined: 02/20/2014 - 15:05
Posts: 690
Location: germany

Thanks Toykeeper (EDIT) and pilotdog,

the connection didn’t seem to be the issue. I checked with following command from Hoop’s guide:

avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n

I have tried to flash different firmwares to these new bare MCUs I ordered, everytime I got the same error. When I tried to flash these firmwares to MCUs that were sitting on a 105C already, it worked.

Now I changed the jumper on the USBasp to the 5V setting and guess what… it worked with the bare MCUs. I have no clue why that is, but I’m glad it worked.

I’ll let you know how I like the firmware when I finally manage to get a driver soldered together and have it installed in a light.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Ah, I forgot about the 3.3V / 5V jumper. Mine came configured for 5V and it has never been an issue.

BTW, the avrdude connection check will still pass even with VCC not connected. I flashed drivers for several weeks (with verify errors each time) before I figured out there was a physical connection issue on my VCC, but after fixing that things have been much better.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12402
Location: LI NY

Not sure if this is the right place but I know TK had seen problems with the OTF cap timing when using a 22K resistor. Would there be the same problem, or worse, with a 36K resistor? I'm seeing awful results - when cold, quick clicks don't change modes, then after a few clicks it starts working, but as a long click (in the BLF A6 driver, moon to hidden turbo, etc.), then after a while the quick clicks work the way they should, but long clicks seem impossibly long... Ugh it's pretty useless in this setup - guess could be a bad part, but again, first time I'm trying a zener mod with the 36K resistor on a 22mm wight FET+1 board (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37231).

Iraksat
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/12/2014 - 17:20
Posts: 58
Location: Europe

Hi

I would like to change the turbo on blf-a6 firmware to a smaller value.Is this possible? I changed “#define MODESNx2 0,0,79,255” to 0,0,79,175 ,the max output was reduced but the turbo timer didn’t work anymore .Should I also change the “line 117 #define TURBO 255 // Convenience code for turbo mode”?

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Tom E wrote:
Not sure if this is the right place but I know TK had seen problems with the OTF cap timing when using a 22K resistor. Would there be the same problem, or worse, with a 36K resistor?

Yes, it changes the OTC values significantly. You’ll need to recalibrate the OTC values and voltage values completely. The tools for this are under ToyKeeper/battcheck/offtime-cap.hex and battcheck.hex.

Voltage is relatively straightforward; connect it to a power source with the voltage you want to measure, read the blinks, put that value into your target firmware. Repeat for each voltage level you need to measure.

Offtime is a bit harder, unless you have a robot to press connect/disconnect power with very precise timing. Basically, connect power, disconnect it, wait for the time you want to measure, connect power again. Repeat a bunch of times to get an average, and use that.

If you keep getting 255, it means the time is out of the MCU’s measurement range (too short), or a 0 means it’s too long. The problem I get is that it stays at 255 for a while before the OTC voltage drops into the usable range (especially when the light is cold).

Ideally, you want both voltage and OTC values to be near the middle of the measurement range for the best accuracy and consistency. The values should ideally center around 128 or so, though really anything between 64 and 192 is good. Probably anything between 32 and 224, really. Outside of that though, it’s getting into the range where it’s hard to measure reliably. The only way I know to adjust this is by choosing different resistors.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12402
Location: LI NY

But I don't see any consistency, so don't see how calibration could work. Right now when it's cold, long press's are the only thing that work. After playing with the modes a few time, short press's are all that work. It seems temperature related, so how could I calibrate to anything?

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Iraksat wrote:
Hi

I would like to change the turbo on blf-a6 firmware to a smaller value.Is this possible? I changed “#define MODESNx2 0,0,79,255” to 0,0,79,175 ,the max output was reduced but the turbo timer didn’t work anymore .Should I also change the “line 117 #define TURBO 255 // Convenience code for turbo mode”?

Yes, you should also set TURBO to 175 if you want step-down to work. Smile

Also, if you want the modes to remain evenly-spaced, I suggest running the bin/level_calc.py tool to calculate a whole new set of PWM levels. If you don’t use 255 though, you may need to edit level_calc.py to either set the value there or uncomment the line which asks you for that. Here’s what it does after I uncomment that line and re-run it with a max of PWM=175 for a 960-lm turbo:

> ./bin/level_calc.py 4 1 10 175 960 y 20 10 140
1: visually 2.15 (10.00 lm): 0.00/255, 20.00/255
2: visually 4.72 (105.46 lm): 0.00/255, 192.56/255
3: visually 7.29 (388.17 lm): 64.68/255, 255.00/255
4: visually 9.86 (960.00 lm): 175.00/255, 0.00/255
PWM1/FET  values: 0,0,65,175
PWM2/7135 values: 20,193,255,0

I got 960 by estimating an actual maximum of 1400 lm, then multiplying that by 175/255.

If turbo isn’t 255 you could also try making turbo a little more efficient by putting some of the load on the 7135 chip. On a XP-L or XM-L2 it’ll generally get about 140 lm on the 7135 alone or 1400 lm on the FET alone… so subtract 140 lm from the FET value and set the 7135 at full. In this case, it would mean the brightest mode is 150 on the FET and 255 on the 7135. But that’s totally optional; it’ll make turbo more efficient, make the PWM harder to see, and make its tint slightly warmer.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Tom E wrote:

But I don’t see any consistency, so don’t see how calibration could work. Right now when it’s cold, long press’s are the only thing that work. After playing with the modes a few time, short press’s are all that work. It seems temperature related, so how could I calibrate to anything?


Temperature is probably an issue, but the two calibration firmwares can at least quantify the issue for you. If it gives you crazy numbers, the hardware isn’t going to work. If it gives you okay numbers, you can be sure the hardware is okay and everything else is a firmware problem.
Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12402
Location: LI NY

ToyKeeper wrote:
Tom E wrote:

But I don't see any consistency, so don't see how calibration could work. Right now when it's cold, long press's are the only thing that work. After playing with the modes a few time, short press's are all that work. It seems temperature related, so how could I calibrate to anything?

Temperature is probably an issue, but the two calibration firmwares can at least quantify the issue for you. If it gives you crazy numbers, the hardware isn't going to work. If it gives you okay numbers, you can be sure the hardware is okay and everything else is a firmware problem.

I'm not sure what good quantifying the problem would be? It's still a problem. Do you know if anyone has ever used OTC with a zener mod with the higher resistor values recommended? I haven't seen much in ways of posted details. Dale mentioned something about adding a cap or resistor on his zener, but with no explanation - never heard of that, or seen anything posted about it - dunno, if it was to address this issue or not.

For now I'll try a NOINIT firmware version, though it doesn't have the FET/7135 support in there now - not enough time to merge it in myself.

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6420
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

I just disabled the Offtim3 presses and it works fine as a normal offtime switching.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12402
Location: LI NY

pilotdog68 wrote:
I just disabled the Offtim3 presses and it works fine as a normal offtime switching.

Doesn't this mean you lose hidden modes? Are you using value of 190? Are you using a higher R1 resistor, like 36K?

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6420
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Yes, you lose hidden modes, but tbh I didn’t really want them anyways. I prefer very simple UI’s (all of my lights are either 3 or 4.mode), but I still love Blf-A6 for access to 2 mode groups and memory soft-toggle.

I think i used a 38k in my last one and the value was around 180-190

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Tom E wrote:
I’m not sure what good quantifying the problem would be? It’s still a problem. Do you know if anyone has ever used OTC with a zener mod with the higher resistor values recommended?

Quantifying can tell you if it’s a little off or if it’s totally out of the ballpark. Besides, if you want LVP to work you’ll need to calibrate the voltage anyway.

I think RMM has made zener+OTC lights, but I don’t know the details. I’ve mostly avoided serial-config lights and higher-voltage emitters.

BTW, if you can’t get the 3-level offtime to work, you could still use it without blinkies, or you could move the blinkies to the second mode group, or whatever. I could even make the basics work with mem decay instead of the OTC if needed, but note that the OTC interferes with mem-decay timing so it’s a good idea to remove it or ground it or make sure it never gets charged.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12402
Location: LI NY

Played with it more (the Roche LS01 - XHP-70), amazing how the timing just progress's - 1st time just blinks current mode, then quick clicks do prev mode, then quick clicks go next mode, and holds go prev mode -- works perfect Smile! Then prev mode takes longer and longer holds til they are no longer accessible... Frown

Of course I got the big flicker every time going from turbo to moon - though turbo is PHASE (not FAST) -- forgot to add a resistor on the FET gate, but I can still do that because I only used 20 AWG LED wires, and left extra length so I can get access to program the driver - nice having a light with a screw down retainer ring on the driver...

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Truly bizarre. I don’t know what would cause the OTC decay to change so much over time, but I’m not good with hardware.

Iraksat
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/12/2014 - 17:20
Posts: 58
Location: Europe

ToyKeeper wrote:
Iraksat wrote:
Hi

I would like to change the turbo on blf-a6 firmware to a smaller value.Is this possible? I changed “#define MODESNx2 0,0,79,255” to 0,0,79,175 ,the max output was reduced but the turbo timer didn’t work anymore .Should I also change the “line 117 #define TURBO 255 // Convenience code for turbo mode”?

Yes, you should also set TURBO to 175 if you want step-down to work. Smile

Also, if you want the modes to remain evenly-spaced, I suggest running the bin/level_calc.py tool to calculate a whole new set of PWM levels. If you don’t use 255 though, you may need to edit level_calc.py to either set the value there or uncomment the line which asks you for that. Here’s what it does after I uncomment that line and re-run it with a max of PWM=175 for a 960-lm turbo:

> ./bin/level_calc.py 4 1 10 175 960 y 20 10 140
1: visually 2.15 (10.00 lm): 0.00/255, 20.00/255
2: visually 4.72 (105.46 lm): 0.00/255, 192.56/255
3: visually 7.29 (388.17 lm): 64.68/255, 255.00/255
4: visually 9.86 (960.00 lm): 175.00/255, 0.00/255
PWM1/FET  values: 0,0,65,175
PWM2/7135 values: 20,193,255,0

I got 960 by estimating an actual maximum of 1400 lm, then multiplying that by 175/255.

If turbo isn’t 255 you could also try making turbo a little more efficient by putting some of the load on the 7135 chip. On a XP-L or XM-L2 it’ll generally get about 140 lm on the 7135 alone or 1400 lm on the FET alone… so subtract 140 lm from the FET value and set the 7135 at full. In this case, it would mean the brightest mode is 150 on the FET and 255 on the 7135. But that’s totally optional; it’ll make turbo more efficient, make the PWM harder to see, and make its tint slightly warmer.

Thank you so much for help,I will reflash the driver in a few days.Good idea to also load the 7135 on TURBO,will definitely try it.

chouster
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 4 hours ago
Joined: 02/20/2014 - 15:05
Posts: 690
Location: germany

Hi, it’s me again having trouble getting things done by myself…

I gave the “S7”-firmware a try, because I wanted off-time memory an a nanjg driver without adding an otc.
Basically I wanted a very simple UI. Three modes, high to low, off-time-no-memory. I know I could have gone with “star_noinit” for this, but I like the battery indication mode that’s in the S7 firmware. So I tried to change the S7 firmware to high, med, low, battcheck mode.

I really have no coding skills at all. Just getting started with this. I managed to get the modes like I wanted them.

Quote:
//#define MODE_MOON 6 // 6: 0.14 lm (6 through 9 may be useful levels) #define MODE_LOW 14 // 14: 7.3 lm #define MODE_MED 90 // 39: 42 lm #define MODE_HIGH 255 // 120: 155 lm //#define MODE_HIGHER 255 // 255: 342 lm // If you change these, you’ll probably want to change the “modes” array below #define SOLID_MODES 3 // How many non-blinky modes will we have? /* #define DUAL_BEACON_MODES 5+3 // How many beacon modes will we have (with background light on)? #define SINGLE_BEACON_MODES 5+3+1 // How many beacon modes will we have (without background light on)? #define FIXED_STROBE_MODES 5+3+1+3 // How many constant-speed strobe modes? #define VARIABLE_STROBE_MODES 5+3+1+3+2 // How many variable-speed strobe modes? */ #define BATT_CHECK_MODE 3+1 // battery check mode index // Note: don’t use more than 32 modes, or it will interfere with the mechanism used for mode memory #define TOTAL_MODES BATT_CHECK_MODE

changed modes array to

Quote:
static uint8_t modes[TOTAL_MODES] = { // high enough to handle all MODE_HIGH, MODE_MED, MODE_LOW, // regular solid modes

MODE_MED, // battery check mode
}

In the main, I commented out all “else if“s after SOLID_MODES except the last one for the BATT_CHECK_MODE.

But now I have no clue how I have to change the part after #ifdef VOLTAGE_MON to make the lvp work as it should. I suppose I have to change something there, right? Because I changed the mode order to high, med, low, battcheck, the lvp would step into high when triggered if I leave it that way, right?

Should I change

if (voltage < ((mode_idx == 0 ) ? ADC_CRIT : ADC_LOW)) {

to

if (voltage < ((mode_idx == 2) ? ADC_CRIT : ADC_LOW)) {

and

if (lowbatt_cnt >= 3) {

if (mode_idx > 0 ) {

mode_idx = 0;

to

if (lowbatt_cnt >= 3) {

if (mode_idx != 2 ) {

mode_idx = 2;

???

Please let me know how stupid my approach is, but don’t be too harsh, I am really new to this stuff…

By the way, I managed to build a FET+7135-driver with BLF-A6-firmware. Really nice firmware! But I strongly recommend using it with a reverse clicky, because until now I’m using it with a forward clicky and I feel it was much more intuitive with a reverse clicky.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

To fix LVP, I think you’ll need to make it change the PWM level directly instead of changing the mode index. It kind of assumes that the modes go low to high, but that won’t matter if you cut the PWM in half each time it needs to step down.

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 17 hours ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7918
Location: SC

I got some DD+7135 boards from OSH Park.  So I ditched the old DD boards I modded but was having troubles with.  The new boards are working, but I need to fine tune the OTC a little more.  Boy TK, I totally see why you recommend tuning the OTC because it totally makes a difference in the UI's performance.  Once I got it close, the program was a joy to use.  Before that, it was frustrating.  I probably would not have had to tune at all if I had known the my supposed 1uF caps were not actually 1uF.  They are around .7uF.  So I used 2 parallel caps and things got much better.  I would not have discovered my caps were underrated were it not for this FW.

I'm curious.  This may have already been discussed and I apologize if it has.  1uF seems a tad too big a cap.  The stock FW threshold is pretty high at 190.  I'm hoping to try like a cap that is about 2/3rds the capacitance and change the FW threshold down to around 140 (just throwing out a guess).  Maybe will even try .5uF and then change the FW threshold down to around 95 (another guess).  Has anyone done any work in that regard yet?  If yes, what did they find out?

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10105
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

The cap isn’t the only thing which affects that. The voltage divider resistors seem to have a pretty big effect too. Ideally, you should try to tune the hardware so that the OTC decays to under 100 within 3 seconds or so, but that’s easier said than done.

In any case, I have to calibrate the OTC for every driver I use, because I’ve gotten them from a variety of sources and each one is a little different. The method I ended up using for best results is to use a metronome at 120bpm and take the average of several samples.

http://toykeeper.net/torches/blf-a6/offtime/

To save time and avoid shipping delays, I also had to teach Manker how to run these tests… which was interesting since we don’t speak any of the same languages. So, I ended up making a wordless video to demonstrate the process.

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 17 hours ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7918
Location: SC

^ That sounds like quite and effort and challenge.

Tonight, I used just one cap that is measuring about .688uf on a DMM.  Set the FW to 140 (from 190).  It works so good and reliable that I am going to pass on running the  off-time FW.  I have 2 more to tune.  I may not be as lucky and will run the off-time FW on them if needed.  I just don't trust my sense of timing.  I will measure and match the capacitors to help ensure success.

Maybe someone can make a spread sheet to see if a pattern develops.  Something like this:

 

  Capacitor      Diode                      FW         UI Performance

Measurement   in LVP    R1    R2   Threshold      & Reliability

     .688uF           ?      19K   4.7K     140             Excellent

     1.37uF           ?      19K   4.7K     190                 OK

Pages