Review Sunree Ree (1AA) headlamp

If I’ve missed any information you’d like to know, post here or message me and I’ll update the first posst.

SUNREE REE (1AA)

Advertised specifications:

This REE motile headlamp use the CREE XTE R2 LED light as the main light source and floodlight auxiliary lights to provide more lighting modes for a variety of outdoor activities at night. It comes with high quality headband allowing you to farewell hot and sultry. Its excellent water resistance and anti-shock performance can ensure you security lighting in outdoors.

Specifications:
Function: REE CREE XTE-R2 White LED 110Lm Motile Headlamp
Features:

- With CREE XTE R2 LED chip, the maximum brightness can be up to 110 lumens, provides more lighting modes.

- The middle LED lamp is distance light, the others are floodlight.

- High quality headband, adjustable and flexible, allowing you to farewell hot and sultry.

- Just one button controller, easy to use.

- Excellent water resistance and anti-shock performance can ensure you security lighting in outdoors.

- Light weight, widely used in cycling, camping, fishing, mounting and other outdoor adventures.
LED Bulb:

- Chip: CREE XTE R2 LED

- Quantity: 3

- Luminous Flux: 110 Lumens (Maximum)
Working Modes:

- Distance Light: High, 110Lm / Middle, 30Lm / Low, 4Lm / SOS, 75Lm

  • Floodlight: High, 25Lm / Low, 7Lm / Strobe, 25Lm
    Waterproof Standard: IPX6
    Maximum Lighting Distance: 70 meters
    Switch Type: One button
    Power Source: 1 x AA battery (included)
    Product Weight: 79g
    Package Weight: 149g
    Product Dimensions(L x W x H ) : 60 x 34 x 28mm
    Package Dimensions(L x W x H ) : 113 x 65 x 80mm
    After Sales Service: 1 Year Warranty
    Package Include:
    1 x LED Flashlight
    1 x User Manual
    1 x AA Battery
    1 x Bag

/eebowler/th_WP_20150318_014_zps50opymyq.jpg” border=“0” alt=” photo WP_20150318_014_zps50opymyq.jpg” style=“”>
.
.
INITIAL IMPRESSIONS:
I bought this light from ePathChina and shipped it via DHL to my skybox the USA who then shipped it down to me. I bought four of these lights so received a little volume discount. Final price on arrival after shipping+ shipping +tax (luckily only about 14%), the cost came up to about $20US per light. YESSSS!

Received in box is the headlamp, a nice nylon carrying pouch, a single Energizer AA cell expiring 12/24 (wow!!), ‘english’ manual and something in Chinese. The pouch is a lovely touch and has an internal, zippered, mesh section which I presume is for spare cells.

This light is pretty :slight_smile: The silver and white front and orange headband attachment is really aesthetically pleasing to me.
.
The light is light. :stuck_out_tongue: The light weight is quite appealing since the light is intended to be sold to runners for a race.
.
One of the things that drew me to this headlamp besides the 1AA source is the two additional flood LEDs. It’s not something I’ve used before and don’t really care for it but, I’d like to start selling these lights and it would be nice for the general public to at least have the choice of either flood or throw. It would be more useful than a spotty beam for reading maps etc.

*1: The spot LED in the light I received is an XP-G2 and not the XTE as described. (Yay!)
*2: The tint of the spot LED is neutral/warm white, very similar to some 4B XTE LEDs I have. (Double Yay!) I remember reading somewhere that a neutral tint is intentional but, can’t find that page at the moment. :confused:

.
.
.
FUNCTION:
Inserting a cell, I was impressed with the output. Being an unknown brand made in China, I was a bit pessimistic about the actual output but was happy to see that it is quite similar to my NW XPG moded, ‘90’ lumen, Fenix HL20. In fact, the tint is a lot prettier than the fenix’s tint. :slight_smile:

The spot beam has a medium sized spot similar to the Fenix and in my opinion is a great balance between flood and throw. The transition between spot and flood is not very sharp :slight_smile:
The flood LEDs have a cool white tint and a few artifacts in the beam (due to the squareish ‘reflectors’) which after a few minutes, do not distract too much.
.
.
OUTPUT:
Modes for the spot are in the order: Medium, High, Low, SOS. I’d estimate high output to be 100ish lumens and low to be around 3 lumens. Medium would be around the 40% output point.

The Flood LEDs have the modes high (20 ish lumens,) low (5ish lumens) and beacon which flashes at a frequency of 13 flashes in 10 seconds> 1.3Hz right?
.
.
RUNTIME:

I haven’t done a PROPER runtime test/comparison as yet but, have run an eneloop and a partially used energizer alkaline in the light till the cells were dead. With eneloops, in comparison with the Fenix HL20, with both lights on high the REE ran at least half hour longer (before I turned it off). Runtime was in the range of three hours. Part of the reason for this is that the REE steps down to medium output after a while. During the test, I did step the REE back up to high a few times when I noticed a difference but didn’t watch the lights like a hawk.
.
.
WATER RESISTANCE:
From the design of the light, I had confidence that it would be up to their claimed IPX6 rating. Sadly, for whatever reason, washing the light underneath the tap, water got in :frowning: . Maybe there’s a little gap in the ‘rim’ of plastic on the body contacting the rubber ‘ring’ in the battery cover. I’ll open another light and use it as a tester and see what happens. Drying out the light as per instructions (duh), everything worked fine.
EDIT: I opened up another REE and tested it under the tap and it leaked too. In fact, it drowned in a cup of water. The problem is partly due to the rim of plastic, (which presses on the rubber ‘ring’ ) being missing from the bottom part of the headlamp by the hinge. I assume it is just a bad design and not a defect. Pic 1 shows where the lip ends. Pic 2 shows the rim at the top of the light and pic three shows the bottom of the light where the rim is missing.

.
.
FLASHAHOLIC TYPE STUFF:


.
.

  1. PWM is BAAAADDDD! cry. On medium and low outputs, I’m constantly conscious of the motion sickness lingering in the background. Honestly, I’m a bit afraid to take this light out on a real run as opposed to using it in my room. :confused: If I have to guess, I’d say PWM frequency is under 500 Hz.

2) Heatsinking is Non-existent or to be nice, MINIMAL. ;( The XP-G2 is on a round aluminium star and that’s it! The flood LEDs are on the PCB with the driver… After dismantling the light, I ran it for a few minutes on high and did a tongue test. Ouch. My bottom lip liked the heat even less. I’d guess temperature was under 80deg C. YES, I understand that the XP-G2 LED is rated at 85 deg C but we know that the star and LED die are never the same temperature and I don’t trust the design at all. Yes, I’ll run a few eneloops through one light to see if it fails over time. As a potential benefit for cold climate users: the cell is in direct contact with the star so, some of the heat from the LED warms up the cell.
.
.
CURRENT DRAW:
Spotlight: Medium 250mA, high 1.36A, low 30mA.
Flood: High 300mA, low 100mA.
(If it matters, the DMM is NOT one of those fancy RMS current types.)


.
CONCLUSION:

I really think this light has a LOT of potential however, the lack of water resistance is a HUGE negative for me. :frowning: I’m assuming that that one headlamp was defective since the Youdo 2 that has the same water resistance design and was washed at the same time, didn’t result in water entry. I’m pretty sure that the XP-G2 LED will survive being fried at tongue burning tempertures for a while but I honestly would like heat to be transferred to the outside instead of being trapped in side a plastic light. (I did message the manufacturer.) PWM is my nemesis :Sp but, many doesn’t have a problem with PWM so it’s not a general problem. This REE doesn’t meet the claim of the IPX6 rating and as an outdoor headlamp, this is a no no…
Maybe my perception will change over time but at this moment, I’ll give it 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

UPDATE. I’ve emailed the manufacturer and got a response from them. They are basically saying that i should not wash the light under the tap and that the light should withstand ‘rain’. I’ve explained to them that their claim of IPx6 standard is wrong and that their other light, with the same IPX6 rating, the Youdo 2 which has a complete ‘rim’ is able to be submerged in a bowl of water without problems. After providing pictures, I haven’t received a response from them… Ironically, they have another headlamp with a rating of IPX6 submerged in a bowl of water on the product page…
.
WRT the supplier, ePathChina, they have responded initially, in a pretty amusing manner. The responder asked me to send back the ‘rims’ so she can replace them. :slight_smile: (I did send the pictures above.) In her most recent response, she offered to send two replacement headlamps of the same or different kind. Not a bad offer at all. :slight_smile:
.
I do like the REE headlamp and honestly would love for the manufacturer to address the water resistance issues.

Hi,

really nice review!

I’m looking at this headlamp with lot of interest: low price (ATM, about 14$ on aliexpress), and just enough power and modes for night trekking needs…

Have you used it “in the field” in these months? Do you have some more comment or note to add to this review? I’ll read it with lot of interest! :wink:

My first reply!! Thank you :smiley: I have used it and even this evening i did a one mile ride to work with it on instead of a bike light. In general it really is a nice light. The tint of the main LED in all the 4 lights I bought are exactly the same ie, BEAUTIFUL and the headlamp with an energizer lithium cell is extremely light :slight_smile: I didn’t realize it when writing up the review but, this light in ‘beacon mode’ makes you pretty visible while running along roads etc. :smiley:
.
I however DISLIKE noticeable PWM and the few times I used the light on trail, (hardly used it on high) it gave me mild nausea/headache. Additionally, i didn’t want to risk the light spoiling due to water getting inside so modified the light in two ways. 1) I drilled a hole in the bottom of the body and connected an external 2200uF capacitor to the main LED and glued that in place. (blocking up the hole i drilled)
2) Before screwing back the light together, I put some glue around the lip of the light so it formed a good seal when assembled. I also put some epoxy on the screws and the ‘hole’ where the battery tabs pass through the plastic. I forgot but, should have put a little epoxy where the bottom of the star can be seen in the battery compartment. shrug.

The capacitor looks like a tumor outside of the light but it has made a VAST improvement in the beam. The PWM is almost gone and I don’t get nauseous anymore. In these pictures, before capacitor is on the left while with the capacitor is on the right.

Only the spot beam is regulated which is ok since i hardly use the flood LEDs. I may be wrong (will have to check) but, I swear beacon changed from ‘instant on to instant off’ to ’instant on then quick dim to off ie, the capacitor discharging over less than half a sec. I like this change :slight_smile:
If I remember, (memory like that of a flea) I’ll do a runtime test with some old eneloops i have.

110lumens for $20. Kind of expensive for my taste :stuck_out_tongue:

true mountainking but, where else can you find a similar headlamp at a similar price? Blackdiamond, princeton tec, petzle all have nothing that compare. :slight_smile:

@eebowler: I’m not an expert on PWM, but if it is really working at 500Hz as you initially said, I think it should be really hard to notice! On a PC monitor I can perceive screen flickering till 70Hz, so I think that over 100-200Hz it would be really difficult to perceive for human eye…or not?

paiolo. lol. I said it was under 500Hz. It is obvious, more obvious than long ago tube monitors for PCs. If it doesn’t bother you even if you see it then you’ll be fine. If you’re like me and get a little nauseous or headaches, then be prepared to add a tumor to your light :slight_smile: or buy something else.

zee tumor! :open_mouth:

The problem is that I’m REALLY sensible to flickering… I’m the only one in my company that can distinguish a 70Hz CRT monitor vs a 75Hz CRT monitor :wink:

Can you check the Time you used when you did the photos you showed? So we can precisely calculate PWM rate

First pic 1/ 325 sec, second pic 1/14 sec… Makes me wonder, given the beam pattern if the second pic is of the flood LEDs. I apologise. These pics have been sitting in my phone for months. Honestly, if you’re sensitive, I suggest you keep away. The Fenix HL20 and HL21 lights i’ve had for some years now, has current controlled modes so no PWM at all. I assume the newer HL23 would be fine as well. The Armytek C1 is current controlled too.

Phirst 2 photos shows 4 flashes… so frequency should be about 1300Hz

Second 2 photos shows about 24 flashes… (or are them only 12?) so in this case frequency should be 14*24= 336Hz (if my calculations does make sense!)

My Zebralight H51F should have some mode that uses PWM… should check the frequency to understand which is my sensibility to flickering

Thanks for the review! Noticeable PWM is usually a deal breaker for me, unless it’s a moddable light. That and a headlamp should be at least water resistant. I took my Wizard Pro swimming once.

I’d guess the second pic is 12 flashes. I’m not sure if the same rule applies to the first pic since the light wrt the camera was stationary. The lines ARE a result of PWM but has something to do with the phone’s interaction with the PWM of the light… I can do pics again today since I still have an unmodfied light. :slight_smile:

That’s how PWM shows up on my video camera too… Except the lines scroll horizontally.

All photos have shutter speeds of 1/8 of a sec. I count between 21 and 24 blinks (some overlap). That’ll make it a frequency of 24x8? = 192 Hz?

(Just to let you know: I’ve ordered it, it’s for a Xmas present but I’ll have the possibility to test it, just too curious! :wink: )

Got it!

Tried it yesterday night: overall I’m happy, it feels solid and the light is good; spot light is warm white and flood light is cold white, this at first leaved me a little disappointed (but nothing serious…)

I like the smooth transition between middle -> high -> low spot power mode, and I can’t nearly perceive PWM flickering (phiu…).

Overall, I think it well deserves his 15$!

Lol! I’m happy you can’t see the PWM! :smiley: Remember also that it is not a waterproof light, unless of course, if they changed the design :slight_smile: