Triple not working - anyone spot check my setup?

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mister_rf
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Also, if by any chance you may find a low value resistor (the value of the resistor is not so critical, let’s say minimum 10 ohms up to 100 ohms), in that case you actually will be able to do some simple tests in order to decide what was wrong there.
The resistor must be used to bypass each of the LEDs, one by one.
During the tests if the two remaining LEDs lights up, for all the three situations, than we have a low voltage converter.
If not all the three combinations will produce results, then maybe there’s a LEDs problem in the circuit.

Hikelite
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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
Ok, have watched a couple of YouTube vids and gave it a go with the soldering iron. Led came off, rotated it and it appears to be soldered back on. However it still doesn't work. I measure 7.8'ish volts coming from the driver on the +- wires on the star. !http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/300bhpton/Torches/2EE3B871-D351-4...

Configuration for series in this image is good, I was looking at the OP image when I wrote my last post, sorry about that.

Chicken Drumstick
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M4D M4X wrote:
I think this is no boost driver!

rebuilding to parallel should bring the light…


Thanks for the tip.

As I say, I’m getting confused here. If I change it parallel with 2 × 26650, won’t that be 8.4v to each led? Fine for a single li-ion setup, but not for a double li-ion? Or should the driver buck this down once there is ‘load’ on the system?

I’m also confused about what config will result in what current to each led. I was lead to believe this driver would supply 2.6amp to each LED while running from 2 x li-ion.

Hikelite
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See my post was edited to make the first sentence i wrote irrelevant, again I was looking at the photo in the OP.

No I am not saying that you need the jumpers for either connection.

But your current setup is correct.

Hikelite
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Some may wonder how is the current flow in series, I've drawn a green line for that.

Itinifni
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If you rotate the emitter at 3:00 in your photo (post 48) and add the jumpers you will split the 2.6A among the 3 emitters or 0.87A/LED. To achieve 2.6A per emitter configured in parallel you would need a 7.8A driver.

Your current driver should maintain proper voltage to all emitters, in this case about 3.1V.

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DavidEF
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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:
I think this is no boost driver!

rebuilding to parallel should bring the light…


Thanks for the tip.

As I say, I’m getting confused here. If I change it parallel with 2 × 26650, won’t that be 8.4v to each led? Fine for a single li-ion setup, but not for a double li-ion? Or should the driver buck this down once there is ‘load’ on the system?

I’m also confused about what config will result in what current to each led. I was lead to believe this driver would supply 2.6amp to each LED while running from 2 x li-ion.


The LED’s don’t care how much “extra” voltage you give them. They are not over-voltage sensitive. They will use whatever voltage they need to do their job. They are current sensitive. So, if your driver is current-limited to 2.6A, you should be fine. The only issue with over-voltage will be if the driver can handle burning off the overhead, because it has to go somewhere. From what you’ve posted so far, it seems to me that the driver is well able to deal with it. However, if you want each emitter to get 2.6A current from a 2.6A driver, you still have to keep them in series. But, you’re going to need to give them more voltage than your 2S config, so that it will be enough to turn on the emitters!

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Hikelite
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Can you rely on a driver that has this description, it is not making sense, unless you want to attribute sense to it (make assumptions)


"Operating voltage:3-18V, up to 20V
Automatically buck: single lithium or double-lithium can promote 3-4XML boost,3-4 Lithium constant current constant temperature driven,Is reduced, the process is automatically switched No operator"

Chicken Drumstick
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Itinifni wrote:
I agree your emitters are properly installed now for a series setup but a couple of other things come to mind.

This would be easier if I could mark up your photo but I’m not sure how so here goes, all comments relative to your photo in post 48.

Confirm the jumper pads closest to the + pad are not bridged, hard to tell from the photo.

You mention 7.8ish V from the driver, I assume that’s a dynamic measurement on the + and – wires. Match’s graph (here) shows forward voltage of the XP-G2 starting at 2.8V (for only 200mA). I think your available voltage is too low.
I would do a voltage drop across each emitter to confirm. Use a DVOM, first + probe to red wire from driver, – probe to pad at 2:00 in the photo. Second, + probe to 2:00 pad, – probe to P+ marked pad just below center in the photo. Last + probe to P+ pad just below center, – probe to – wire from driver.

If I’m not mistaken, for a 2.8A driver you should be seeing approximately 3.0-3.1V per LED or 9.9V across the driver wires.

But then again I may be out in left field.

Good luck with it.


Thanks for the guidance.

Afraid it’s getting a little advanced for me.

This is what I’ve done, does it mean anything?



!http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/300bhpton/Torches/CDF89506-2037-4...

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Chicken Drumstick
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DavidEF wrote:
Chicken Drumstick wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:
I think this is no boost driver!

rebuilding to parallel should bring the light…


Thanks for the tip.

As I say, I’m getting confused here. If I change it parallel with 2 × 26650, won’t that be 8.4v to each led? Fine for a single li-ion setup, but not for a double li-ion? Or should the driver buck this down once there is ‘load’ on the system?

I’m also confused about what config will result in what current to each led. I was lead to believe this driver would supply 2.6amp to each LED while running from 2 x li-ion.


The LED’s don’t care how much “extra” voltage you give them. They are not over-voltage sensitive. They will use whatever voltage they need to do their job. They are current sensitive. So, if your driver is current-limited to 2.6A, you should be fine. The only issue with over-voltage will be if the driver can handle burning off the overhead, because it has to go somewhere. From what you’ve posted so far, it seems to me that the driver is well able to deal with it. However, if you want each emitter to get 2.6A current from a 2.6A driver, you still have to keep them in series. But, you’re going to need to give them more voltage than your 2S config, so that it will be enough to turn on the emitters!

Right, still a little confused. I specifically bought this driver because I was told I could run 3 LEDs each at 2.6amps using a 2 x li-ion input.

Are you saying this isn’t the case?

I don’t want to run each led at .8amp as there is simply no point, might as well go single emitter. And a zener modded Qlite would do better for 25% the price of this driver.

Chicken Drumstick
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BTW – I bought this driver based on wights recommendation:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37041#node-37041

wight wrote:
The ideal thing here is to get those 3 emitters in series rather than in parallel….

This driver might be a good choice with the LEDs in series and 2s li-ion:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/DriverTest%20Boost-Buck%203-18V%20Triple%20XM-L%20UK.html

Chicken Drumstick
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In other news….

I wanted to make sure the driver worked. So quickly hooked up an MY-G2.

And in line to the LED it was pulling 3.05amps on the tiny DMM leads.

So the driver definitely works in this config.

On reading further I’m of the mindset that this driver is not able to power 3 led in series on 2 li-ion. Which is a bummer as that was the only reason for buying it. At over $20 including shipping and physically huge. I’m sure a Zener modded Qlite is a better way to get 3amps to a led.

I’ve since swapped the right hand led roun again and refitted the jumpers. And tested direct drive to a single cell and the XP-G2 triple in parallel seems to work fine.

So I’m now left with a triple and optics and nothing to put them in.

And left with a D2 host and driver and nothing to utilise it.

Itinifni
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Sorry for going MIA yesterday, had to go to work (pesky job).

Is the driver permanently mounted in the host? If not you can see what else you can find, something like this would work. It’s not going to deliver 3A per emitter but 5A isn’t bad.

If the driver is potted into the host and seems to run an MT-G2 maybe that’s the direction to go.

I’ve had more than one build that ended up very different than I originally planned, I just bag and label the left over parts and put them in the draw. Eventually they get used on something.

I remember a time, when I searched for lights to fit my needs. Now I search for needs to fit my lights.

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I think your right hand led may still need another 90 degrees rotation. It’s only 90 from where it started not 180. Nope, my bad.

Try testing just the reflowed led by applying 3V to pads on either side of it. Sometimes when reflowing the connection doesn’t make. The P- and P+ pads only with B+ to P- pad.

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Chicken Drumstick
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To bring this full circle.

After trying the MT-G2 I thought maybe I should just see what else the driver would power.

So I hooked up two random XM-L’s in series.

And then a 3rd:

So it seems this driver will power 3 x LEDs in series off of 2 x Li-ion.

However my guess is, something didn’t work right when I reflowed the triple board, or something was still wrong on how it was wired.

I know the triple board works as parallel, as I converted it back to it’s original state.

The only really sad thing is, it’s clear to see from the pictures, that 3 x LEDs on this driver is lot less bright than 2 x LEDs. So I think had it of worked straight off on the triple it would have been a disappointment.

I do wonder if running say 3 × 26500’s would improve performance. But it’s quite an expense just to try it out. And frankly, if you are running 3 Li-ion and 3 LEDs, you’d simply be better off with a FET driver and direct drive for high.

Overall I’m quite pissed off at having spanked over $20 on this driver. As it doesn’t even get close to achieving what I thought it would. And what it can do, could easily be done or improved on with far cheaper options. It’s also frigging HUGE!!!!! So really limits what it can be used in.

To complete the build I used a de-domed XM-L and a large TIR optic. Quite floody and useful for upto 10 feet away. But not really overly impressed. I’ve swapped in an MT-G2 now and retained the large TIR. It’s super floody, but not really sure I like it. As it just seems a large torch to achieve something a compact zoomy can do pretty much.

DoNkEyConN
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sorry to resurrect. saving this thread for later.

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