review: Thrunite Archer 1A V2 CW vs. NW

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M4D M4X
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review: Thrunite Archer 1A V2 CW vs. NW

Hi my friends!

JohnnyMac – one of BLF´s great members was asked by Thrunite for reviewers for the updated Archer series and he recommended me for the Archer 1A V2

After some nice emails with Thrunites sales person i received 2 Boxes from their Amazon-warehouse

they sent me the ColdWhite Version and a NeutralWhite of the “Upgraded version of the Archer 1A with more user-friendly UI and UPDATED LED” to compare.

I want to start with some data from Thrunites website:

CW Specifications:

  • LED: CREE XP-L V6 LED with a lifespan of 20+ years of run time.
  • Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.055lumen(408hours); Low:17lumen(22hours); Medium:75lumen(5hours);
    High:180lumen(115minutes); Strobe:180lumen(3.5hours).
  • Max output: 180lumen using one Ni-Mh AA battery.
  • Max run time: 408hours (Firefly mode)
  • Working voltage: 0.9v to 4.2v.
  • Battery: 1 AA or 14500 battery(not included).
  • Max beam distance: 71 meters.
  • Peak beam intensity: 1261cd.
  • Impact resistant: 2 meters.
  • Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard (1.5meters)
  • Weight: 60g without battery.
  • Dimensions: 110mm in length, 23mm bezel diameter.

NW Specifications:

  • LED: CREE XP-G2 LED with a lifespan of 20+ years of run time.
  • Modes & Run-time: Firefly:0.42lumens(408hours); Low:15 lumens(22hours); Medium:70 lumens(5hours); High:175lumens(115minutes); Strobe:175 lumens(3.5hours).
    Note: Runtimes vary with different batteries.
  • Max output: 175 lumens using one Ni-Mh AA battery.
  • Max run time: 408hours (Firefly mode)
  • Working voltage: 0.9v to 4.2v.
  • Battery: 1 AA or 14500 battery(not included).
  • Max beam distance: 97 meters.
  • Peak beam intensity: 2400cd.
  • Impact resistant: 2 meters.
  • Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard (1.5meters)
  • Weight: 60g without battery.
  • Dimensions: 110mm in length, 23mm bezel diameter.

lets unpack them!

the same accessories can be found in the nice Cardbordboxes..

at first: read the manual! (CW ones)


everything in there can be found also on the productpage – good if you unpack that light without having access to the internet. also nice english!

some impressions:


tailstand is not guaranteed on every light…

the rubber button is a bit higher on my CW sample and makes it veery wobbly

the clip an be easily removed

and mounted facing up or down

i prefer wearing lights with the lens down…

okay – time to throw in a battery and fire it up!

the tail switch is a forward clickie which allows a momentary on when its half pressed

then you use the electronic side switch to toggle modes
(from low to high, with mode memory)

the sideswitch is very well made and can be found easily on the light


… i wonder why there is a uncolored spot in the middle – i did not see any light coming out there

the knurling is perfect cut and the tailcap has two big holes for lanyards or paracord

square cut, lubed threads and a massice O-ring

a massive battery tube!

a look inside the battery tube displays the driver with the reverse polarity protection

the tailcap from inside

after opening the retaining ring (clockwise!)

well choosen components!

then i unscrewed the stainless steel bezel (which is not glued)

the GITD (… a bit) Rubber ring is “U”shaped and carries the lens

nice AR coating

lets teke a look inside the head!
the pill looks like press fit

a copper MCPCB! – not sure it its DTP, because the LED is reflowed without solder blobs…

i don´t know the function of that metal piece

the LEDs

using the flash of my camera

now using UV light Wink

NW glows warm, CW blue-ish

CREE XP-G2

CREE XP-L V6

beamshots! (only indoor for now because its raining for days)

towards a sheet of paper- left is NW, right CW

wood shows the tint difference better i guess (close distance)

aprox. 30 cm distance

upwards to show beam profile

high using a NiMh cell vs. LiIon cell
NW

CW

my “lightbox” – a white cardboard box turned inside-out

unfortunately the Lumen readings seem to be a bit high

using that i got you some numb3rs:

CW moon low mid high
Duracell Alkaleak 0,005A / – Lm 0,096A / 19 Lm 0,415A / 86 Lm 1,60A / 210 Lm – 190 Lm@30s
eneloop AA white 0,005A / – Lm 0,106A / 19 Lm 0,443A / 83 Lm 1,62A / 214 Lm – 195 Lm@30s
nitecore IMR14500 0,003A / – Lm 0,054A / 19 Lm 0,170A / 86 Lm 1,30A / 575 Lm – 540 Lm@30s
NW moon low mid high
Duracell Alkaleak 0,006A / – Lm 0,083A / 18 Lm 0,398A / 77 Lm 1,75A / 178 Lm – 165 Lm@30s
eneloop AA white 0,005A / – Lm 0,095A / 17 Lm 0,440A / 79 Lm 1,75A / 200 Lm – 190 Lm@30s
nitecore IMR14500 0,003A / – Lm 0,054A / 17 Lm 0,170A / 81 Lm 1,28A / 500 Lm – 480 Lm@30s

conclusion:
very well buildt lights!
nice size, AA is always good to have since the cells are available everywhere
if you need more power – just drop in a IMR cell and get more than twice the light
the driver seems to do a good job since on the first 3 modes the brightness is nearly the same regardless the batterytype i used
30$ (CW) and 36$ (NW) is okay i think

thank you JhonnyMac for recommending me and thanks to Thrunite for giving me the chance!

 

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Edited by: M4D M4X on 05/23/2015 - 08:10
Trevi_lux
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Thanks for the review. I like the modes with the Lithium battery, are very usable.
No Runtime curve?, how is the regulation with NiMH?

I don’t like the clip. As you, I prefer lens down, but the clip is not near the extreme of the flashlight. I like the design of the clip, but not the situation over the flashlight.
About side switch? is any utility for the low battery advise?

logindetails
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It looks very much like the Olight S15 with the addition of a tail switch.

M4D M4X wrote:

the sideswitch is very well made and can be found easily on the light


… i wonder why there is a uncolored spot in the middle – i did not see any light coming out there

If it’s like the Olight switch it will light up when the battery gets low:
M4D M4X
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I think I have to salvage a battery Big Smile

found a old alkaleak with 1.1V
was getting dim fast to no light at all
but no indication with the sideswitch Sad
(but it is not mentioned anywhere that there should be that ability)

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

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BIG THANKS for helping me by using my REFLinks

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Trevi_lux
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Perhaps they are recycling the same switch for all models…

Ejected Filament
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That clip likely lends itself for attachment to the peak of a cap?

M4D M4X
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i did not try that – but i am sure that works

 

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MRsDNF
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Thanks M4D M4X. As logindetails suggested is the low voltage indicator. It flashes for a short period before staying on constantly before the light turns off.

For anyone interested, my review on the Thrunite Archer 2C V2. is here.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Ejected Filament
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MRsDNF wrote:

Thanks M4D M4X. As logindetails suggested is the low voltage indicator. It flashes for a short period before staying on constantly before the light turns off.

For anyone interested, my review on the Thrunite Archer 2A V2 is here.


…you had me going as Im about to drop $30 on a 2A but your review is of a 2C not 2A…. May I ask if your parents ever married? :bigsmile:
MRsDNF
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Sorry. Its early and the caffeine is still trying to kick start this old bugger into gear. Fixed the link details. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.