Need to replace my florescent closest lights with LEDs.

Speedsix · June 3, 2015, 11:35pm

I have those 24” long florescent tube closest lights. They get hot and hum and flicker and I just don’t care for them. Want to pull them down and replace them with a warm LED. It’s wired for 120vac.

poiihy · June 3, 2015, 11:50pm

The most common way is to use LED retrofits. You get a pack and it has LED "tubes" that look like fluorescent tubes, then you replace the ballast with an LED power supply.

Another way you can do it is to get LED strips/tapes and stick a few lines of them on top of the fixture. Then connect them to a 12v power supply and to mains.

Wilson · June 4, 2015, 1:33am

I’m not sure how cfl’s and led’s figure into the equation below. Just something to consider when installing new light fixtures.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/electrical-tips-replacing-a-light-fixture/view-all

If your home was built before 1985, beware: Many new light fixtures can’t be connected to pre-1985 wiring because the insulation on the wiring can’t withstand the heat generated by the fixture. These fixtures carry a warning on the label: “Use wire rated for at least 90 degrees C.” If you know your wiring was installed before 1985, you’ll have to choose a fixture that doesn’t carry this warning. Hanging fixtures, for example, usually don’t require newer wiring because they don’t heat the wiring as much as fixtures that mount directly against the ceiling. The alternative is to replace the wiring, which may be a small job, or huge, depending on the situation.

If you don’t know the age of your wiring, look at the fine print. If you have plastic sheathed cable (Romex is one common brand) and can see the outer sheathing, look for “NM-B” or “UF-B.” Or look for “THHN” or “THWN-2” on the insulation of individual wires. If you see any of these, the wiring can handle the heat.

poiihy · June 4, 2015, 7:27pm

Wilson:

I’m not sure how cfl’s and led’s figure into the equation below. Just something to consider when installing new light fixtures. http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/electrical-tips-replacing-a-light-fixture/view-all

If your home was built before 1985, beware: Many new light fixtures can’t be connected to pre-1985 wiring because the insulation on the wiring can’t withstand the heat generated by the fixture. These fixtures carry a warning on the label: “Use wire rated for at least 90 degrees C.” If you know your wiring was installed before 1985, you’ll have to choose a fixture that doesn’t carry this warning. Hanging fixtures, for example, usually don’t require newer wiring because they don’t heat the wiring as much as fixtures that mount directly against the ceiling. The alternative is to replace the wiring, which may be a small job, or huge, depending on the situation. If you don’t know the age of your wiring, look at the fine print. If you have plastic sheathed cable (Romex is one common brand) and can see the outer sheathing, look for “NM-B” or “UF-B.” Or look for “THHN” or “THWN-2” on the insulation of individual wires. If you see any of these, the wiring can handle the heat.

That doesn't exactly make sense. The old light fixtures had incandescent bulbs and there must've been some fixtures that mounted directly to the ceiling. Nowadays with CFLs and LEDs that release less heat, the wiring should handle those fine! But if it's in the building code then you have to change the wire. (To do this just cut the wire a meter or two from the light box, then connect a new wire with higher rating to the old wire with a junction box)

dw911 · June 4, 2015, 10:17pm

poiihy:

Wilson:

I’m not sure how cfl’s and led’s figure into the equation below. Just something to consider when installing new light fixtures. http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/electrical-tips-replacing-a-light-fixture/view-all

If your home was built before 1985, beware: Many new light fixtures can’t be connected to pre-1985 wiring because the insulation on the wiring can’t withstand the heat generated by the fixture. These fixtures carry a warning on the label: “Use wire rated for at least 90 degrees C.” If you know your wiring was installed before 1985, you’ll have to choose a fixture that doesn’t carry this warning. Hanging fixtures, for example, usually don’t require newer wiring because they don’t heat the wiring as much as fixtures that mount directly against the ceiling. The alternative is to replace the wiring, which may be a small job, or huge, depending on the situation. If you don’t know the age of your wiring, look at the fine print. If you have plastic sheathed cable (Romex is one common brand) and can see the outer sheathing, look for “NM-B” or “UF-B.” Or look for “THHN” or “THWN-2” on the insulation of individual wires. If you see any of these, the wiring can handle the heat.

That doesn’t exactly make sense. The old light fixtures had incandescent bulbs and there must’ve been some fixtures that mounted directly to the ceiling. Nowadays with CFLs and LEDs that release less heat, the wiring should handle those fine! But if it’s in the building code then you have to change the wire. (To do this just cut the wire a meter or two from the light box, then connect a new wire with higher rating to the old wire with a junction box)

Doesn’t make sense to me either for the reasons poiihy explained above

Guess that’s why he’s only the family handyman and not a family tradesmen :bigsmile:

Think he needs to stick to putting up picture hooks and fixing dripping taps and leave the electrical work to someone who knows what they are talking about

itsonlyme · June 4, 2015, 10:27pm

I guess its to do with the fixture in an led light is generally the heatsink also.

incavin · June 4, 2015, 10:31pm

Would these work for you? https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27453

Last time I was at Costco they had a couple of pallets full & were priced at $34.99

Wilson · June 5, 2015, 12:38am

I installed a new ceiling fixture that takes incandescent bulbs. I currently run cfl’s in the fixture. I could also run led bulbs. A lot of led bulbs screw into fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs. The following fixture does not allow older wiring to get excessive heat because the bulbs are spaced away from the electrical box.

If one of these fixtures is installed, then there is the possibility that someone will install an incandescent bulb. If so, that installation needs to be on the safe side of the electrical code.

The Family Handyman is a well respected magazine, and not an individual person.

dw911 · June 5, 2015, 1:33am

Maybe I was a bit harsh, maybe the US has different rules
But in the UK (and im guessing the EU as we’re all one big happy family)
A manufacturer and or the retailer would not be allowed to sell any type of light fitting for use in a domestic property that would allow the existing wiring to be heated to anywhere near the sort of temperatures that the Handyman.com mentioned in the article or any temperature that would or could damage the existing wiring.
and to be honest, as one of the main causes of house fires are electrical, it’s just common sense and easily avoidable by engineering the light fitting in such away from the start to avoid this issue.

poiihy · June 5, 2015, 7:53pm

dw911:

Wilson:

I installed a new ceiling fixture that takes incandescent bulbs. I currently run cfl’s in the fixture. I could also run led bulbs. A lot of led bulbs screw into fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs. The following fixture does not allow older wiring to get excessive heat because the bulbs are spaced away from the electrical box. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-3-Light-Antique-Brass-Ceiling-Fixture-J0611AB/202022720 If one of these fixtures is installed, then there is the possibility that someone will install an incandescent bulb. If so, that installation needs to be on the safe side of the electrical code. The Family Handyman is a well respected magazine, and not an individual person.

Maybe I was a bit harsh, maybe the US has different rules But in the UK (and im guessing the EU as we’re all one big happy family) A manufacturer and or the retailer would not be allowed to sell any type of light fitting for use in a domestic property that would allow the existing wiring to be heated to anywhere near the sort of temperatures that the Handyman.com mentioned in the article or any temperature that would or could damage the existing wiring. and to be honest, as one of the main causes of house fires are electrical, it’s just common sense and easily avoidable by engineering the light fitting in such away from the start to avoid this issue.

The US has some of the worst electrical standards IMO... The NEMA connector (the typical sad outlet with the plug) is so flippin idiotic... First of all you can easily touch the live pins and get killed. Just slide the plug in until it touches the contact, and you can easily touch the pins. This EASILY could be solved by having sleeved pins (like in UK) and/or recessed outlets (like in Europe or wherever). Second, the NEMA connector is SO FLIMSY! You plug in a cord and it wiggles and theres always a gap with bare connectors which some metal piece could fall into. Also night lights, air fresheners, etc, also are loose and wobble dobble around. The grounded connectors are MUCH more secure, especially when the outlet is upside-down (technically it isn't "upside-down" because the outlet can be mounted in any position. Having the ground pin up is actually BETTER and all outlets should be mounted like that).

TL;DR: USA's NEMA connectors are flippin idiotic and dangerous.

I like the UK connectors. They click in to the outlet nicely and they are very secure. Although it is sort-of ridiculously huge (like everything you plug into is a dryer or industrial machine) it is secure and safe. (Well it better be because the voltage is twice as much!) UK plugs also always have sleeves, so you can't touch the live pins, and the outlets have shutters. Europe plugs are good too because they are recessed, so there is no way you can touch the pins when they are making contact. What I liked about Europe plugs is that they have small, yet solid and strong, cylindrical pins that go into cylindrical holes, and you cannot stick your finger into that hole. You also cannot stick thin objects like keys and stuff in it. Only thing you can stick is like a needle or thin piece of metal, but pieces like that are much more rare than flat pieces of metal. Their outlets are safe but not so ridiculously huge.

End of rant.

hamedshh · June 6, 2015, 4:17pm

hi

good do as soon you do that it is safe for you

i did it in past and now many of my household light is LED

led use less consume energy and more durable and have no uv no ir

it wholly silent that have no annoyanced you

sun · June 12, 2015, 7:49am

Led tube will be a good choice.How about 3000k T5?

SawMaster · June 15, 2015, 12:12am

I do a lot of fixture changes and I’m aware of the newest code requirements but I have yet to see even once where any type of equivalent-wattage fixture caused overheating of the wire insulation except with the ancient knob-and-tube systems. That’s the cloth-covered rubber insulation stuff and it’s all past it’s “best used by” date at this point.

You won’t ever see temps of 90 degrees Celsius in the fixture or box; the 90 deg. C rating is called for only so that it coincides with new codes calling for the same rating for the wire itself. Without that rating the fixture could not be legally used in new home construction; that is the only reason for the warning label on them. Here’s the logic: The new fixture is pulling the same current as before, and being more efficient than Incan it is producing less heat and more light with it so in truth the new equivalent fixture will be running cooler than the old one and the wires will follow suit. When there’s a ‘hot spot’ like a driver or ballast, the fixture itself serves as a heat sink to dissipate that heat which also keeps the wires cooler. Not bashing anyone here, but electricians have to do as the codes tell them to without question and you don’t. I’m not a licensed electrician either but my tail is on the line when any work I do fails so I don’t do any work that will fail. Ever. Period. Not even close.

The problem I most see there other than loose connections is where someone used too big an incandescent bulb(s) for the rating of the fixture itself and the lamp sockets became brittle from overheating; yet even then the wires are always OK. You’re more likely to die in a lithium battery fire than from a fixture wire failing from overheating alone.

Feel free to use the safety excuse as a reason you can’t install that nice new fixture the wife wants- just don’t let her see this post!

Phil

poiihy · June 15, 2015, 3:37am

SawMaster:

I do a lot of fixture changes and I’m aware of the newest code requirements but I have yet to see even once where any type of equivalent-wattage fixture caused overheating of the wire insulation except with the ancient knob-and-tube systems. That’s the cloth-covered rubber insulation stuff and it’s all past it’s “best used by” date at this point. You won’t ever see temps of 90 degrees Celsius in the fixture or box; the 90 deg. C rating is called for only so that it coincides with new codes calling for the same rating for the wire itself. Without that rating the fixture could not be legally used in new home construction; that is the only reason for the warning label on them. Here’s the logic: The new fixture is pulling the same current as before, and being more efficient than Incan it is producing less heat and more light with it so in truth the new equivalent fixture will be running cooler than the old one and the wires will follow suit. When there’s a ‘hot spot’ like a driver or ballast, the fixture itself serves as a heat sink to dissipate that heat which also keeps the wires cooler. Not bashing anyone here, but electricians have to do as the codes tell them to without question and you don’t. I’m not a licensed electrician either but my tail is on the line when any work I do fails so I don’t do any work that will fail. Ever. Period. Not even close. The problem I most see there other than loose connections is where someone used too big an incandescent bulb(s) for the rating of the fixture itself and the lamp sockets became brittle from overheating; yet even then the wires are always OK. You’re more likely to die in a lithium battery fire than from a fixture wire failing from overheating alone. Feel free to use the safety excuse as a reason you can’t install that nice new fixture the wife wants- just don’t let her see this post! Phil

Very good post; very interesting and informative!

ClaudKLyons · June 30, 2015, 10:25am

According to my opinion in this situation you can do it is to get LED strips/tapes and stick a few lines of them on top of the fixture. Then connect them to a 12v power supply and to mains. Led Strip Lights is the best choice for this purpose.

hamedshh · June 17, 2015, 4:09pm

SawMaster:

I do a lot of fixture changes and I’m aware of the newest code requirements but I have yet to see even once where any type of equivalent-wattage fixture caused overheating of the wire insulation except with the ancient knob-and-tube systems. That’s the cloth-covered rubber insulation stuff and it’s all past it’s “best used by” date at this point. You won’t ever see temps of 90 degrees Celsius in the fixture or box; the 90 deg. C rating is called for only so that it coincides with new codes calling for the same rating for the wire itself. Without that rating the fixture could not be legally used in new home construction; that is the only reason for the warning label on them. Here’s the logic: The new fixture is pulling the same current as before, and being more efficient than Incan it is producing less heat and more light with it so in truth the new equivalent fixture will be running cooler than the old one and the wires will follow suit. When there’s a ‘hot spot’ like a driver or ballast, the fixture itself serves as a heat sink to dissipate that heat which also keeps the wires cooler. Not bashing anyone here, but electricians have to do as the codes tell them to without question and you don’t. I’m not a licensed electrician either but my tail is on the line when any work I do fails so I don’t do any work that will fail. Ever. Period. Not even close. The problem I most see there other than loose connections is where someone used too big an incandescent bulb(s) for the rating of the fixture itself and the lamp sockets became brittle from overheating; yet even then the wires are always OK. You’re more likely to die in a lithium battery fire than from a fixture wire failing from overheating alone. Feel free to use the safety excuse as a reason you can’t install that nice new fixture the wife wants- just don’t let her see this post! Phil

ok you point at important thing that if any one do not observance that it gave many issue like

fire burning it bad happen if hold

and if you led instead of any light source like led it produce less heat than florescent and no any problem for heating

a lot of incandescent bulb fixture is one type of polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride that all chemist say Bakelite that very resister for heating and many of florescent fixture used material shall mixed by such polystyrene like this to resist for heat

all wire must be used in own place like you must see ampere for the what consumer use power and use proper wire to have no problem at all

wire must be in high quality material to use for long time they have standards and table of use

you must see point at parameter like ohm ampere and voltage of wire if any conflict between wire and consumer appear in this case if you can you must change all wire at last to optimize situation for your circuit to ideal state no need heat sink to need to cooling wiring system if it used in right place

never change any consumer without care of all circuit survey that cause damages