Convoy s2/s2+ Nichia 219B 92CRI advice please

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Convoy s2/s2+ Nichia 219B 92CRI advice please

Hi, i want to build a high cri flashlight. I will put a Convoy s2/s2+, 1,5Amp driver and Nichia 219B in copper Noctigon. I have some questions:

1-What you thinks its better Convoy s2 or S2+, the s2 has a deeper reflector and s2+ short reflector any ideas?

2-If a put the nichia led higher than 1,5 lost cri capabilities or not?

3-What centering ring can i use?

4- Its a good idea to use Ar coated lens with nichia high cri led ? in other words, the lens affect to the cri?

I build a few lights and i have some experience but any advice is allways cool!

Finally this is the list of i will use ( for help to anyone that want to build a flashlight)

-Host s2/s2+
-Driver 1,5 Amp
-Led 219B cri 92 in copper noctigon board.
-Centering ring ?
- Thermal paste for led star, i use actic mx4 ( one of the best)
- 22Awg cable for sustitute the driver cables ( less resistance)
-Tailcap spring copper brained( less resistance)
- Ar coated glass lens 20mm

I accept suggestions for anything that would be improove.

Thanks to all.


jacktheclipper's picture
Last seen: 1 day 31 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2010 - 21:18
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Location: Florida , U.S.A.

S2+ for close-up use , S2 for medium distances .

Last seen: 2 hours 37 min ago
Joined: 08/17/2014 - 06:04
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jacktheclipper wrote:

S2+ for close-up use , S2 for medium distances .

Thanks! Any other things?

Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 11/24/2013 - 14:12
Posts: 200
Location: Germany

If you buy the S2 you might get a host with XP-G/219b reflector size opening(5mm). But usually it comes wit 7mm.
S2+ will be 7mm (XM-L).

Centering ring for 7mm: link to aliexpress
Centering ring for 5mm: link to intl-outdoor

You could put one of these silicon cubes- under the driver for a little better heatsink capability. It’ll work fine without but makes it a bit more reliable.

Instead of copper braid I use 22awg wire to bypass springs, if you use these springs, you don’t really need to bypass them at all due to the low current.

Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 11/24/2013 - 14:12
Posts: 200
Location: Germany

Nice to know, never really noticed anything up to now. These centering rings worked fine for me with 219b and XP-G2 so far but I remember some poped off, just never though about it that much and pressed them back on. Didn’t have any problems with focus of 219b leds, I can’t remember anyway. The only one that annoyed me with focus was an XP-L.

Chicken Drumstick
Last seen: 5 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 08/27/2012 - 05:00
Posts: 2387
Location: UK

While there is a difference in beam from an S2 to an S2+, it really isn’t huge. And you’d need them side by side to really tell the difference.

Also remember the Nichia is smaller, so will produce a tighter hotspot and be a little more throwy anyhow.

Basically, what I’m saying is, I don’t think it really matters which reflector or host you’ll use.

You can also drive a Nichia much harder than 1.5amp too, but of course you don’t have too. But do remember it won’t be as bright as the Cree’s.

As for the other things you mention, AR lenses are proven to work. But the reality is, I doubt you’ll be able to tell by eye. And I’d argue and say for a 1.5amp driver a braided tailcap and over large wires won’t really net you any visual gains and just make the build more hassle.

I have a couple of Convoy S4 hosts that I’ve modded. One is a Nichia219B on a Noctigon and running a 3.04amp Qlite driver. With a good battery you will see 2.99-3.04+ amps at the tailcap. This works well as a short burst use light, but does heat up quite quickly, i.e. you couldn’t leave it on high and go for a 30min+ walk without over gloves. But for a few mins use at a time, it’ll be brilliant and quite bright still.

I didn’t use any spacers or centering rings. On this build. Just the stock components.

Medium mode pulls 0.78’ish amps, which is quite a useful level, as it’s still fairly bright and you can run it on this level until the battery goes flat if you want too, with no heat issues.

That said, if you want the highest output, for the longest runtime, then a different driver would be needed, as the Qlite is way above, or way below 1.5amps. Honestly, if I was doing this again, I’d not buy a host. I’d just buy a complete Convoy with one of their drivers in, the 2.8 (8*7135) is almost as good as the Qlite. And simply swap in a Nocitgon with a Nichia on. Sure you can do all the other bells and whistles. But I struggle to believe they’d make any difference if you plan to EDC it.

Convoy do a 1.4amp version of their driver, which might be bang on for what you are after.

For the record, I also built an XP-G2 Convoy S4, using a Qlite and a Noctigon. I went for the R5 5A2. This is a lovely NW high CRI led. Ok it doesn’t claim as high a CRI as the Nichia. But I tell you what, it’s a really nice tint. It’s slightly brighter than the Nichia (visually). And I can only tell the tints apart when I have them side by side, and even then it’s hard to tell. If anything the Nichia looks a little blue/green next to the 5A2.

Nichia S4:

And here is the Nichia and the XP-G2 R5 5A2. Not the best comparison pic, but clearly shows they are very similar:

And to prove the point, here is the same Nichia against a cool U2 bin XM-L:

djozz's picture
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Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
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Location: Amsterdam

with the N219B on a copper board it could be nice to drive the led a bit harder than 1.5A, for a bit more light. I would go for 2.5 to 3A. At 1.5A a copper board is not doing much extra over an aluminium one.

The CRI is not affected much by the drive current. Someone on CPF once did a test on that with the Nichia219A three years ago (link). The tint alters a bit but the CRI not so much although it goes up a bit with higher current.

Last seen: 2 hours 37 min ago
Joined: 08/17/2014 - 06:04
Posts: 178

Hi, first of all thank you all for great advices! Smile

In consideration of all the things that share here, this is the final list for my build:

Host: Convoy s2
Driver: 1,4A
Centering ring:
Led Nichia 219B on copper base Noctigon

Other things:
Blue GITD caps
“Better Batery spring”:
Silicone cubes for driver
Driver Battery contact
Thermal Paste Artic Cooling MX4
Batteries Panasonic NCR18650B EVVA 2x Seiko

I don´t use 22awg wire for driver, intead i will use default wire for an easy build. Also i don´t use AR lens i will use default lens.
In adition i will use 1,4A for many reasons, easy build (not need to solder driver can use ring) and also less hot and better runtime.

Last but not least ( i have this but mention for any that want to buy)
Light Difusser
JETBeam Nylon Flashlight Holster

I hope can help to anyone.


Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/02/2015 - 12:54
Posts: 58
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Thanks for putting the helpful information here. I’ve never modded a flashlight myself, but I wanted to swap out the emitter on my S2+ to the Nichia 219B. The link to the LED in the above post no longer works, but I found this:

Is this the right one? or would there be a better one?

Would a TIR lens help the beam? If so, would this one work?

Do I need the centering ring for the TIR or the stock reflector?

hank's picture
Last seen: 17 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 7628
Location: California

If you don’t mind giving up a little CRI, look into

Nichia 219C on 16mm Noctigon – 80+ CRI 5000K

Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/08/2016 - 01:02
Posts: 308
Location: Poland

Digging out this topic – basically I’d like to build very similar light – Convoy S2+, however – on Nicha 219C.

As far as I know – the reflector hole in S2+ is 7mm – fits XM-L gaskets (for 5×5mm led).
However gasket for Nicha/XP-L/XP-G2 fits 5mm hole (as led is 3,5×3,5mm)… so how can I match it?

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Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
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Ahh….simple and briliant. Thank you very much X3 ! Smile

Last seen: 9 months 1 day ago
Joined: 11/06/2015 - 14:46
Posts: 147

I recently assembled a S2+ with a 219C. I used only the stock centering ring provided and it worked well enough after several tries. As I tightened the pill, the sides of the square opening of the centering ring eventually caught on the corners of the LED board while also butting up against the silicone covered leads, thus centering the reflector over of the LED.

Last seen: 8 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/17/2018 - 09:59
Posts: 16
Location: The Netherlands (East part)

Today I orderd a S2+ with 7135*8 and Biscotti firmware,
and a Jaxman Nichia 219B board with emitter.
Can I just swap the emitter boards, and everything works?
Quite new to modifying flashlights so…
The copper board it is mounted on is 1,6 mm thick (fur US people: 0,0623”).

Thanks for the advices in advance.

Klarus Mi7
Fenix E12
Sofirn SF10
Convoy S2+
Ordered: Skilhunt H03, Trustfire A8, Sofirn SP33.

Boaz's picture
Last seen: 55 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 11/07/2010 - 09:31
Posts: 6775
Location: Birthplace of Aviation looks like the same holster you linked to earlier ,

καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν


Anyone interested in Dc-Fix pm me.