BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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bugsy36
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myhken wrote:
Crazyeddie wrote:
Here is the final step I left out of the last photo:
It's this last part I can't do with my Al X6. It goes fine with SS/Cu X6 and X5 and the Al X5, but on the Al X6 it's impossible to remove the "shiny" thing. (reflector right?) It will not screw any way, will not move at all. So this light has the yellow spot in the center of the beam, that's is annoying, and a reflector that will not move at all. Time to contact Neal?

Time to place your lights up for sale! Somebody will most certainly want them and appreciate them just as they are.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

mattlward
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All I can say, is that this may be the best group buy light out there and they are perfect! LEDs centered, no nicks in the finish, everything works as it should!

Thanks guys and gals for putting this together, much appreciated!

Matt

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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myhken wrote:
Crazyeddie wrote:
Here is the final step I left out of the last photo:

It’s this last part I can’t do with my Al X6. It goes fine with SS/Cu X6 and X5 and the Al X5, but on the Al X6 it’s impossible to remove the “shiny” thing. (reflector right?) It will not screw any way, will not move at all.
So this light has the yellow spot in the center of the beam, that’s is annoying, and a reflector that will not move at all.

Time to contact Neal?

Your problems are beginning to excite my esophageal ganglion.

Btw, I sleep fine bathed in blue light and a haze of various frequencies in the non visual spectrum.

I made a joke to a friend the other day about the possibility of weaving protective coated copper thread into clothing fabric to create a Faraday cage, albeit an incomplete one. Lol.

pilotdog68
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A nearly-imperceptible yellow spot in the beam? I’d personally skip Neal and just sue the postal service for delivering such garbage!

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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DB Custom wrote:
There’s Science for you, always changing, adapting to the new data coming in. So, is anything actual, matter of factual? Or do the scientists simply shift and adapt at will as new things are discovered? Eggs are good for you. No, wait! Eggs are bad for you! Uh, hold that thought, eggs are good for you again unless you have cholesterol problems. How are we ever to really know what’s what?

In case this makes anything more clear…

Science doesn’t give us answers. It just gives us a progression of theories which are less wrong than what we thought before. So… it’s not really about being right. It’s about being less wrong.

About eggs/coffee/whatever being good/bad for you, that’s just the media trying to make big headlines out of every tiny little thing. Some scientist lays down another cobblestone on the road to the future, and the media proclaims “This is it! We’re finally there!”

Crazyeddie
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Hi Kenneth,
Since earlier in this thread I took offense as some of the things you had written, I thought the way you stated the problem with the reflector was much less offensive and more in line with other people’s posts of seeking assistance. That is why I took the photos to try and help. Sadly, I am at a loss of giving you direction from here. All of my lights easily come apart and can have the focus adjusted in seconds. I do not have the knowledge base to advise regarding possible penetrating oils that would be appropriate to use.(I have a vise with rubber padding I use for really stubborn items). I do wish you luck.
Ed

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alex1234 wrote:
the beam on my x5 was good but idk whats the deal with the x6.

It sounds like you already fixed this, but … yeah, you can unscrew the reflector and MCPCB, adjust the centering, then screw everything back down. You might also want to adjust the depth of the reflector, to fine-tune the beam. On my aluminum X6, the beam was nicer (and measured as more intense) after I inserted a very thin spacer. My steel X6 was pretty much optimal without any changes though. So, your mileage may vary, but it may be worth attempting to fine-tune the focus yourself.
robo819
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Just to report , my SS/Cu X6/X5 set showed up today. All serial numbers match (235 of 400) The box in perfect condition no nicks or dings anywhere. The X5 had ridden up out of its spot but no damage suffered to either light that I can see from that. There is one small ding on the X5 but you almost have to have a magnifying glass to find it. Emitters well centered on both ,beam, looks good on both, no fogging of lenses or reflectors anywhere and not stuck in any modes that I can find.

I would say overall, my set got to me in as near perfect condition as any light or set would arrive to your door from any destination of the world.

Great job Krono, bugsy36, Johnnymac, Dale, Toykeeper and if I missed anyone thank you too. Love the lights and thankful to be able to be one of the lucky ones to have gotten in on this GB, Keep up the good work and kudos to you all.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / Maxtoch Xsword / M1 Archer *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 /  , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / TC15 / TC15 CE *** ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II /  ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// ##WowTac// A4 , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

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hank wrote:
It’s also why it’d be useful for someone to keep a moderated list of known problems … Many of the little annoyances can be fixed at home, once identified and people contribute solutions.

Any volunteers? Anyone want to make a BLF Kronos X6/X5 troubleshooting thread / FAQ? Smile
will34
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Normally a yellow spot in the center of the beam means that the LED is too far up the reflector and needs to be lowered, or in this case the reflector has to be raised a tiny bit, less than 1mm. It happened to me in several mods and using a XP sized clear plastic insulator solves the problem. Richard has them.

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I like the blue but will probably double them up and reduce the current to make them dimmer but even.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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myhken wrote:
on the X6, I get a yellow spot in the center of the beam.

What can I do, and is this a possible requesting a new light, or something. I can nothing about fixing lights, but maybe there is only a part I can change my self, without any soldering or such thing, since I have no equipment of that sort.

The XP-L HI has much more even tint distribution than a domed emitter, but it’s not 100% perfectly distributed. It still leaks more yellow out to the sides than it does to the front. So, it’s pretty much guaranteed that the hotspot will be a bit more yellow than the rest of the beam. Not as much as with older emitters, usually, but the effect is still somewhat visible.

To reduce it, you will probably need to fine-tune the focus yourself — both centering and depth. IIRC, this process was already discussed within the last 50 posts or so, if you’d like more information.

I’ve had distinct spots in the beam even from premium brands like Zebralight. One nice thing about these BLF lights is that we can open it up and fix it.

myhken
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bugsy36 wrote:

Time to place your lights up for sale! Somebody will most certainly want them and appreciate them just as they are.

Again, what have I done to you to deserve so many negative comments?
The SS/Cu set was super, ok, some dent corners on the box, and some scratches on the Cu light. But nothing big. I’m really happy, love the tail light, and the only thing I’m sorry for is that I will not use them, just have them in the box.

Therefor I have ordered 3 Al sets. At least one for my self. And the first that come here, has a really yellow spot right in the center of the beam, you can’t miss it. This is not normal, my other three lights have not the yellow spot.
Then, trying to fix it, the reflector? is stuck, no way to get it open. Is this normal?

Would you say that this light is 100% and what I paid for? I can not center the led, I can not open the reflector, I have a yellow spot in the beam.
Others with the same issue?

Don’t blame me for getting a light that don’t meet the standard the lights from this GB should have. But you of course think, it’s just Kenneth, he can live with the damaged light, no biggie. Good I have two more Al sets coming, hope they are OK, and then I can put this Al X6 in a drawer and forget about it. Good that I live in Norway so I have lots of money to spend on this.

And really nice to have a so supportive team member that supports the GB customers that you bugsy36. I can not fix this light, so I have to live with it. Would you have paid $50 for something broken that you could not fix?

Kenneth Myhre

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Crazyeddie wrote:
Hi Kenneth, Since earlier in this thread I took offense as some of the things you had written, I thought the way you stated the problem with the reflector was much less offensive and more in line with other people’s posts of seeking assistance. That is why I took the photos to try and help. Sadly, I am at a loss of giving you direction from here. All of my lights easily come apart and can have the focus adjusted in seconds. I do not have the knowledge base to advise regarding possible penetrating oils that would be appropriate to use.(I have a vise with rubber padding I use for really stubborn items). I do wish you luck. Ed

Thank for the effort and help. You are better then many others here. I’m really a hated person on this forum.

Kenneth Myhre

will34
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I have nothing against you or anyone but honestly you have build up a reputation where most of the things you order don’t work as they should and can’t be fixed by yourself, which is… Uncommon?

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zoom zoom wrote:
I have a bad driver in one of my X5’s (it’s stuck in muggle mode?!). Instead of expecting discounts or a new free copper light, could someone please let me know if and where I can purchase a replacement driver, please!

I’d suggest starting by asking Neal for a replacement driver. It’s the sort of thing which is A) clearly broken, and B) can be fixed by a replacement part.

I’m not sure if the drivers will be sold by themselves, but I’m guessing they probably will be after a while.

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Ken,

The XPL Hi is an emitter without a dome and yellow is NOT out of the ordinary in some of the emitters regardless of batch. IT happens. It is the nature of it.

Just return the lights. returns with you are inevitable. You are not just a chronic complainer. You will break whatever rules to satisfy your desires. At the present moment...you should not even have those in your hands AND I know that had someone else had them they would most certainly appreciate them. PLEASE do not tell me how financially hurt you are. Fact is the light does work. Don't like the yellow....sell them and stick with the aluminum sets but chances are that you will look for reason to get refunds there too.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Tom E wrote:
So I pulled off the C1 cap on one of these new light drivers and tested it -- it appears to be a 12 uF cap as best as I can tell.
Awesome, thanks for testing that! I'm not even sure how to test the capacity of a capacitor...

The better DMM's have a setting for it, usually shared with the resistance measurement setting. I used a Fluke, but my UNI-T UT50B DMM and my UNI-T UT210E clamp meter can read Farads as well. Biggest issue is the cap usually can't be read in circuit because of too many effects of the circuit, unlike resistors that can be read on the board Smile.

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Sharpie wrote:
Works as stated. Use with caution.

This should be printed in large, friendly lettering on the cover of the box. Smile


Works as stated. Use with caution.


tarver
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well my boxed set arrived yesterday and i never got to see it because it was apparently stolen off my front porch

bugsy36
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Sharpie wrote:
Works as stated. Use with caution.
This should be printed in large, friendly lettering on the cover of the box. Smile

Works as stated. Use with caution.

Absolutely!!!!

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

DB Custom
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Ken, use a sandal or a tennis shoe… a deck shoe for wearing on a boat like a Sperry Topsider is ideal… press the open face of the reflector against this rubber to grip it, twist the head of the light. Should unscrew. Or lay the piece of rubber down so you can press the light down onto it and twist off.

Obviously, make sure there are no little rocks or pebbles stuck in the tread of the rubber before you try this. Wink

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My lights showed up monday, #042 of 400.
The box had dents and chips in 3 of 4 corners but not too noticeable.
I ordered the 3B emitters and the X6 was 3B but the X5 is 1A.
I would have ordered that combo if I could have so that’s fine too.
In all a great deal, I’m really happy with this group buy.
Thanks for all the effort. Smile

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bugsy36 wrote:

Ken,

The XPL Hi is an emitter without a dome and yellow is NOT out of the ordinary in some of the emitters regardless of batch. IT happens. It is the nature of it.

Just return the lights. returns with you are inevitable. You are not just a chronic complainer. You will break whatever rules to satisfy your desires. At the present moment…you should not even have those in your hands AND I know that had someone else had them they would most certainly appreciate them. PLEASE do not tell me how financially hurt you are. Fact is the light does work. Don’t like the yellow….sell them and stick with the aluminum sets but chances are that you will look for reason to get refunds there too.

You do understand that I have NO issues with the SS/Cu set. The issue I have is with the Al X6. So stop talking about the SS/Cu set.
I’m not out for refund each time a have an issue. But I MUST be allowed to write about my issues like all others in this thread. Don’t know why I is so unlycky with stuff like this, but I had no issues with the 7 BLF A6 lights, or the 4 BLF D80 lights I got. Also got several EE X6 XP-L HI without any issues, and a ton (around 30) of S2+ from Simon and Gearbest, all working 100%.

Still, why do you hate me so much? It is not me that have make this light, it’s not me that has glued or tighten the reflector and it’s not me that have made the yellow spot. But you blame me for it it seems.

So I’m not allowed to complain when something is wrong? The Al lights is public, so I can buy so many as I want, still, issues is issues.

Kenneth Myhre

ToyKeeper
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myhken wrote:
So this light has the yellow spot in the center of the beam, that’s is annoying, and a reflector that will not move at all.

Time to contact Neal?


Replacement parts won’t fix this.

A screwdriver and some fine-tuning and possibly a strap wrench will fix this.

Possibly a thin spacer too, like the one RMM at MtnElectronics carries (linked a couple pages ago), or a few sheets of paper cut to fit (or whatever else you can wedge in to keep the reflector from going too deep).

myhken
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ToyKeeper wrote:

The XP-L HI has much more even tint distribution than a domed emitter, but it’s not 100% perfectly distributed. It still leaks more yellow out to the sides than it does to the front. So, it’s pretty much guaranteed that the hotspot will be a bit more yellow than the rest of the beam. Not as much as with older emitters, usually, but the effect is still somewhat visible.

To reduce it, you will probably need to fine-tune the focus yourself — both centering and depth. IIRC, this process was already discussed within the last 50 posts or so, if you’d like more information.

I’ve had distinct spots in the beam even from premium brands like Zebralight. One nice thing about these BLF lights is that we can open it up and fix it.

The issue here is that the reflector is stuck, so I can not open it to fix it. That is the main issue. If I could get the reflector open, maybe there would be a easy fix for the issue.

Kenneth Myhre

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will34 wrote:
-In the X5, copper heatsink is noticeably a different color than the rest of the body.

A couple people have mentioned that. I wonder if there was more than one batch made, with slightly different processes. Or maybe more than one chunk of copper used as source material. Got a picture? I’ve never actually seen a copper mismatch.
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Ugh I’m sorry man that’s just awful. People make me sick sometimes I swear. Hopefully karma will catch up to them.

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MY mistake thinking it was the SS/Cu set but my position still stands.

Ken, you need to learn more....just  fact of it. You look for the tiniest fault in everything and that is not what this place is (at least in my opinion). This place takes great pride in taking nothing and making something. With these group buys we do our best to make that possible for everyone with no effort AND at a cost less than what one could do for the cost of parts alone.

The yellow may or may not go away...I do not know because it IS not uncommon BUT once you mentioned "Contact Neal" all bets are off in my book. If you can make it go away ...great...if not, then just sell them...you are after-all in the flashlight reselling business.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

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Arrival! 8 total days with that free Priority Direct shipping, can’t beat that. I got them about 1:00. Wanted to go for a bike ride. Didn’t open the package at all, how many could do that? Came home from the ride and opened it, first the S.S. OH MY GOODNESS! Not a mark on it. People weren’t lying when they said these were HEAVY! I got 2 clips with mine, both in the bag. The light/UI works great. Thanks to Dale’s config. video posted earlier it was simple. Haven’t attempted changing the number of modes yet however.. I’m giddy over these. Should have bought more sets :bigsmile: Will definitely have to get an aluminum set as well, as these will be shelf Queens. The lit tailcaps are nice but can’t get used to them. Not going back to find a post but this lit tailcap doesn’t draw too much power? No worries? I don’t want to have to keep unscrewing the tailcap to turn it off. And then there is fear of GALLING Wink Whatever.

The copper one is awesome as well. Great lil size. After seeing some pics it would be nice to have an amber or red tail light in this one. The clip came on the copper light. How do I get it off without scratching the body?

These two lights are amazing. Sorry for the others, but mine do not have a mark on them. I did not get the box. I think TK said the S.S. put out 1400 lumens stock. How about the copper one? Did I hear 1300?

I couldn’t be happier with these. I’ll just keep these 2 and get rid of my other 70 lights! Wait, I’m keeping the A6 too. The wait was worth it. No way to show my gratitude. Here’s a couple of pictures:

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