review: nitecore TM16 - final!

Hello my friends!

banggood sent me a nitecore TM16 - a Tiny Monster!

they also offer it for us to a unbeatable price ;)

you can find the other glossy advertisement pictures in banggoods webshop ;)

the Specifications: (from the shop)

Product name: NITECORE TM16 4x CREE XM-L2 U2 LED Flashlight
Brand: NITECORE
Model: TM16
Emitter Brand CREE
Emitter Type: XM-L2 U2
Material: Aerograde aluminum alloy
Total Emitters: 4x
Lumens: 4000lm,1780lm,680m,280lm,5lm
Runtime: 45min,2h30mim,6h,16hmin,520h
Special modes: Strobe/Location Beacon/SOS
Battery Configurations: 4x 18650 batteries (not included)
Peak Beam Intensity: 122,500cd
Switch Type: clicky
Switch Location: body side of the flashlight
Impact Resistant 1.5 meters
Max Output: 4000 lumens
Range: 700 meters (max)
Lens: Toughened ultra-clear mineral glass
with anti-reflective coating
Carrying Strap: included
Waterproof: IPX-8 (two meters submersible)
Color: black
Weight: 506 g without battery
Size: 182mm x 89mm x 53mm(length x head x body diameter)


Features
· Features advanced temperature regulation (ATR) technology
· Dual-switch user interface ensures one-handed easy operation
· Features 5 brightness levels and 3 special modes
· High efficiency circuit board provides max runtime up to 520 hours
· Integrated power indicator light displays remaining battery power
(patented)
· Power indicator’s secondary function displays battery voltage (accurate
to 0.1V)
· Direct access to ultra-low or turbo ensures flexibility and convenience
· Reverse polarity protection prevents damage from incorrectly inserted
batteries
· Stainless steel retaining ring protects the core components from
damage
· Rear tripod connector brings extra funtionality
· Sturdy HAIII military grade hard-anodized
· Tail stand capability

but now to real life!

once again - i got a box

the light is very well secured (as all nitecore lights i got since now) - no need to be afraid along the long way from china

accessories are: a lanyard, 2 O-rings, warranty card and a chinese User manual

well.... what ??

fortunately i found the english manual at the manufacturers homepage

lets look on whats mentioned in the title - the light:

the tailcap has a thread for a tripod, and 3 lanyardholes

and the tailcap is the only part with knurling

the anodisation and letters are very good - i only found one little dent

the head has some medium deep cooling fins

the light has two switches behind a rubber boot

i do not know if its on purpose that its skewed - but i see no disadvantage...

since i write about the switches... the UI is quite good!

  • a ON/OFF switch and a mode switch to toggle the 5 brightness levels from lower to higher modes with last mode memory
  • i love the possibility starting with ultra-low or turbo when holding the ON/OFF or mode button from OFF regardless the memorized mode! (most nitecore lights work that way!)
  • to enter the disco modes hold the mode button when the light is ON to activate Strobe - another hold toggles beacon and SOS (hmmm - bacon)

additional features:

  • "standby" means that the power switch flashes blue once every 3 seconds (can be deactivated)
  • "lockout" means that a (accidentially) press of a switch does not turn on the light (which happened some times while my test)
  • klicking the mode button in OFF gives 1 to 3 blue flashes - 1 means batteries are empty, 2 is below 50% and 3 above 50% Power
  • when the tailcap (and electrical connection on the batteries) is closed the blue light flashes according to the cell voltage. at 4.2 Volt the blue power indicator will blink 4 times, followed by a one second pause and another 2 blinks for example

but back to the appearance...

tailstand?

[x] check!

very clear AR-coated Lens?

[x] check!

the bright side:

the LEDs are not 100% centered

but i do not think thats a big problem here since the beam profile is not exactly circular ;)

size comparison:




















opening the battery tube shows a nicely lubes square cut thread

the tailcap has a PCB which closes the connection of the 4 batteries (i am quite sure in series...)

well made with doubled springs to lower the resistance (the bolts are just for correct positioning)

hint: the PCB is not screwed, but glued...

in the battery tube are stickers which show the polarity for each slot

BUT it may lead to confusion since (R)CR123 are not allowed!

at the driver side you see the double springs and a black plastic? foil which works as reverse polarity protection.

this prevents flat top batteries from working!

thats why i had to apply a solder blob on my Sony VTs

short batteries are a problem at all - i had to use 1mm magnets at the negative side of the cells to ensure propper function when shaking the light hard...

my Panasonic NCR18650B (near 70mm long) work perfect

at the End of part 1 i have a small gif to show mode spacing and beam profile

(ISO 200 / F5 / 1/4sec)

in the second part of the review i will try to open the light as far as possible to see whats inside and at least get rid of the reverse polarity protection thingie to make it work with all my cells!

i also try to find out how the Advanced temperature regulation (ATR) technology works and how different cells perform.

and i will have some tables...

stay tuned!

in the meanwhile you could send me a PM if you are interested in a really good offer for that light ;)

today i have some insights of that great light...

remember i did not like the reverse polarity protection?

(in fact it drove me crazy so it was the important thing i was doing after i did not manage to open the light)

it was a hard fight...

but i won (using a heatgun to soften the plastic did the job)

the contact board (i was right guessing a 4S arrangement of the cells)

despite mild force only little damage was done

now every cell has contact - but they sit a bit deep now (and some damage was done on this side too)

using rubberised gloves the bezel opened up at the end

the lens is hold/sealed within a C-shaped "O-ring"

the reflector is made of plastic...

the bright part!

the solder needed a lot of heat (i used flux core solder to alloy it)

the PTC (NTC?)

the MCPCB is made from alluminium and meassures 40x40x2 mm - it is NOT DTP (direct thermal path)

since i was not pleased with the centering i filed a bit off the stands (might be neccessary to work also on the MCPCB - i will see when i reassemble the light)

using a lot elbowgrease and a heatgun took me here (finally)

the base where the MCPCB sits is 3 mm thick

the electronics assembly is secured with this ring - it should be possible to tighten it farther down and compensate the missing reverse polatity pcastic

down there sits the contact board

i was "complaining" about the tilted switch... it can be mounted nicer ;)

the switch PCB

whis is soldered to the driver

after i desolderd that i got the whole assembly out of the tube...

the contact board in detail

the wires connection to the drivers backside (which actually facing forward when mounted)

question: what is LA----~~LB for?

another angle shows contacs for programming the MCU, the thermistor wires and switchboard

finally: the populated side of the driver:

R205 seems to be the sense resistor... ;)

i did not manage to get useful results on that ATR feature - it gets hot on high (50°C) for sure !

my observations lead me to the conclusion that the voltage on turbo is influencing the brigthness A LOT!

the different cells perform very different (might be the voltage sag?)

some raw numb3rs:

Battery ultraLOW LOW MID HIGH TURBO TURBO
prot. Panasonic NCR18650B 0.004 A 0.045 A 0.320 A 0.99 A 2.23 A
Sony US18650VT (pulls) 2,6 A
prot. Panasonic NCR18650B 3 Lm 377 Lm 867 Lm 2330 Lm 4050 Lm 12760 Lx@3m / 114.84 kLx
Sony US18650VT (pulls) 3 Lm 374 Lm 859 Lm 2325 Lm 4350 Lm 13230 Lx@3m / 119.07 kLx
LG 18650HE2 3 Lm 375 Lm 857 Lm 2305 Lm 4600 Lm 13860 Lx@3m / 124.74 kLx
ICR18650-22P (pulls) 4450 Lm
acebeam ARC18650NP-260A 4200 Lm
acebeam ARC18650H-250A 4850 Lm 15080 Lx@3m / 135.72 kLx
for comparison M43 XP-G2 dd X60 6500 TM06 K40M4D
same testrun 6400 Lm 6900 Lm 3800 Lm 4300 Lm

things to be updated on this post:

reassemble the light (modify maybe?)

make more meassurements to understand input voltage/Amps to Lumen OTF

take temperature measurements vs time

my conclusion (so far):

+ i like that light!

+ powerfull / useful / good size!

+ nitecore build quality

+ great UI

- can´t use the cells I want (without voiding warranty)

- plastic reflector (can´t say what is not as good as a metal one - but its plastic...)

update 27.7.2015:

i took some time and finished my review

plasitc reflectors leak some light i was told - so i tested that:

here you see the amount of light thats actually going thru and is lost!

ISO200 , 1/2 sec

measured Vf of the 4 LEDs (at the driver)

battery type lower low mid high turbo
old sony VT 4,11V 10,23 11,1 11,57 12,44 13,25
acebeam ARC18650H-250A 4,13V 10,22 11,1 11,56 12,46 13,78
Pana NCR18650B prot. 4.14V 13,18
acebeam ARC18650NP-260A prot. 4,12V 10,23 11,1 11,58 12,47 13,34
acebeam ARC18650NP-260A prot. 4,12V 0,003A 0,175A 0,414A 1,22A 2,43A

i think: the less the voltage of the cells drops under load, the higher is the Vf delivered to the LEDs on turbo - all other modes are well regulated

the numbers fit to my lumens i measured above....

next test:

i made a run with the floating LED-board - NO cooling NO heatsink!!!

after ~50 secs on high it had ~100°C and stepped down a lot (the thermistor works)

last test:

setup:

i took amperes between driver and MCPCB and (used x10 in the graph for a better display)

temperature was measured between 2 LEDs on a blackened field with the IR-thermometer ( swinging a bit and took highest reading)

"input"voltage from the 4S cells - because i think that voltage provided under load mostly affects what comes OTF

the fan of the pure copper heatsink ran on 12V

cells used: acebeam ARC18650NP-260A prot. with 4,05V at start without load

minute 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
FAN OFF stepdown turbo + FAN ON Light OFF
emitter ampere 2,2 2,15 2,125 2,095 2,065 2,035

2,005

1,975 1,95 1,92 1,89 1,86 1,835 1,815 1,785 1,762 1,777 1,772 1,773 1,772 1,769 1,76 1,755 1,75 1,18 1,7 1,64 1,58 1,54 1,505 1,48 0
temperature MCPCB °C 20 25 25 25 26 26,5 27 27 27,5 28 28 28,5 28 28 28,5 28 31 33,5 36 37,5 40 41,5 43 44,5 47 40 35 33 31 30 28,5 25
voltage 4S under load 15,05 14,92 14,81 14,73 14,61 14,55 14,52 14,49 14,46 14,42 14,39 14,38 14,35 14,32 14,28 14,26 14,22 14,22 14,15 14,11 14,07 14,03 14,01 13,98 14,26 13,95 13,95 13,95 13,95 13,94 13,94 14,65
calculated cell voltage 3,76 3,73 3,70 3,68 3,65 3,64 3,63 3,62 3,62 3,61 3,60 3,60 3,59 3,58 3,57 3,57 3,56 3,56 3,54 3,53 3,52 3,51 3,50 3,50 3,57 3,49 3,49 3,49 3,49 3,49 3,49 3,66

as graph:

what I think to see:

  • with good cooling there is no stepdown the first 15 minutes - output Amps ran slowly down according to dropping input voltage
  • even with the fan switched off and heating up the Amps ran down according to dropping input voltage until the stepdown (to high) happened
  • after FAN ON and step back to turbo same picture...

Looking forward to more info!

thanks for the review.
quick questions….is there a step down from turbo? if so, how long?
to turn on and off light, does it require holding down the switch? or is it a simple quick click?
lastly, if possible, i would like to see a beam shot comparision with your k40m please.

stepdown: not measured yet
on/off: single short click to memory (long for ultralow or turbo from off)
beamshots will follow soon

How about an Old Lumens style post-review giveaway?
:money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face:

i did that already… (with a JM35, a nitecore sens AA and a kindire K1200S)

but i like this one too much :stuck_out_tongue:

Interesting, looks like the leds are all mounted on the same mcpcb, it might make modding a bit difficult if the reflector has a flat base.

I’ve been looking for a multi led thrower to mod with XPL HI, and this could be it. Will wait for part II of your review

I recieved a my TM16 (DHL baby!). I too really like it. I took it out for some night fishing, during which I intended to get some beamshots, but the fish were unrelenting. In the few breaks in action we had I pulled it out and delivered some daylight to the trusses and shoreline 200yds away even through the dense air. I also finally got to test out my UF-1504 (sliced dome xpg2 3A) which was a bit disapointing comparatively. Great for cruising and spotting buoys with very little spill hitting the boat, but not enough light to illuminate a large spot.

Anyway, I think I have a new best flashlight in my collection. :slight_smile:

if the baby ever again goes to sleep i can update post 1 :wink:
tiredashell

i also made a beamshotsession (470m and 200m) with 14 lights - also in progress to resize and make a post worth reading…

Were you able to confirm the 4000 lumens for the TM16?

see Post#1 :wink:

Thanks Max. WIll wait for your regulation results before deciding on one :stuck_out_tongue:

What does not having DTP mean for the TM16 then? Can someone explain that?

If there is one word to describe Nitecore flashlights it’s THIN.

Nice comprehensive strip down. The review needs an X rating.

Thanks for the great review! Great disassembling!

Definitely great flashlight. Just wish Nitecore to not take so much care for the weight of their products,which is important for the regular user,but possibly limiting the performance.

Awesome job !!! Thanks for the disassembling. :bigsmile:
thanks…thanks….and thanks…

Excellent review! Many thanks :slight_smile:

I stand waiting with the step - down :wink:

Many thanks for that…

Did you by chance had a k60 in that 14’s lights list?

unfortunately not :frowning:

not easy to get one for cheap …