differences in attiny hex
So I now have a Makefile automating builds of several configurations in combination with several chips (with for example: -DCONFIG_FILE="bistro-custom.h" -DATTINY=25) . For what it's worth, my code built for the attiny45 and attin85 differs by about three bytes in the instruction payload of the hex files. I haven't bothered to figure out what those bytes are, but obviously there can be some memory address differences at least, but I just don't know. The attiny25 file is different, and for that I knew at least one reason, the attiny25 uses an 8 bit stack pointer and the 45 and 85 use 16. I access the stack pointer so in this case there's even different source code. Will and attiny45 hex work on an attiny85 without problems? I don't know, but at this point I wouldn't try it unless I had to.
No luck on this 7135 thing yet. I hoped it was a software issue, but it doesn't seem to be. I went back to the old test rig with no back-side 7135's using latest firmware, and also tried an older version firmware with the new driver. The test board works fine, with the all7135s channel on, with no actual 7135s on it. Just to see, instead of shutting down all channels right before sleeping I turned on turbo instead. It really shouldn't matter, and it didn't.
About the best idea I have is get the driver to self trigger a shutdown. by sending input power through a second channel FET. Then it's possible to time the shutdown detection. Mostly that would just prove what already seems true though, but still wouldn't explain it. This is really puzzling.
a crud.. never mind. I thought I had progress on this 7135 thing, but I think I fooled myself. Anyway, I'll keep playing with it.
Anyway, I found diagnostic tool. I can sneak in a Vcc ADC read in the interrupt right between detecting the shutdown and powering off. It's working, although no time to interpret it now. It should give insight into how much time and charge is lost before the shutdown. I could make use a couple actually, like one after the first wake, and get a read on how much drain is happening during sleep that way too.
So some interesting results. Unless I'm getting completely fooled, like the interrupt is firing at all the wrong times (TURBO works so it can't be all broken) I think I'm measuring the voltage on C2 immdiately after the pin fall is detected.
I first had to calibrate my Vcc read real well (which uncovered a slight bug in the calibration function, but almost irrelevant really). Anyway
In turbo I'm getting:
Input Voltage Vcc Catch voltage
On All7135s I'm getting almost the same
I find it interesting that the 4.0V reading does relatively badly compared to the 3 V readings in both cases. But what's more interesting is that there doesn't seem to be any serious problem here with the 7135s, and yet there is. This helps though, because if this holds up it at least points to what's not the problem, power down detection time, unless that 0.1V is really a big deal, I wouldn't think so.
This seems to be a good tool. I'll continue, trying to measure voltage at the first power-on and see what that looks like.
(just updated numbers to uncorrect for the diode, so these are real voltages on the Vcc pin now.)
Yes. I got it. Just had to find the right pin state to get the driver pins into after shutdown detection. Apparently output low doesn't work (or output PWM 0, should be the same thing). I have no idea why not. Input high is documented as a good option because it's high impedance and avoids supposedly problematic middle voltages (input low actually means input floating). And yet, the solutions was input low. It maybe helped that I shutdown the 7135's first pulling them down with a quick output low first, I don't know.
Anyway, it not only works, it works great. You can whistle a couple of line of Dixie before you turn you light back on. I've got the code in a bit of a mess at the moment from all kinds of testing, so I'll probably start over from the last release and add things and test, might take a couple of days, might not, but I think we'll have OTSM working great in bistro here shortly.
I keep recompiling and reflashing this same ROM and keeping checking that it's really in ALL7135s because I keep thinking I must be confused, but it's working.
Updated: It actually works over 4s at 3.0V without a bleeder (~4K of divider resistance) and 160C heat gun pointed at it!
I have no idea what you are talking about Flintrock but your writing tells me you are excited and that can only mean one thing. Your onto a winner. well done.
My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.
Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife.
djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
OTSM. (I think TA named it that). I think it means off-time sleep mode or something like that. It's the replacement for OTC in bistro HD. It means that the length of a medium click is as steady as the watchdog timer, which as far as I can tell is about 10% even when hot, which is much better than many caps. It's also not sensitive to all the resistor tuning that the OTC is, so should eliminate those headaches.
I've got the first low-capacitance bistro Texas Avenger OTSM light ever right here in my hand, working just fine. I thought the issues were worked out several weeks ago, but it hit a snag when applied to a real light. The snag is now defeated.
These fixes will of course get posted up to the bistro-HD thread shortly.
Thanks for the explanation. Now to remember it.
12v jobbers isn't a term I can google to fix my bricked chip /board (I tried to do a flash and I think I bricked my chip) What do I need to fix my driver board? It's a 17DD MTN Fet + 7135.
I built a high voltage serial programmer to deal with that stuff: https://arduinodiy.wordpress.com/2015/05/16/high-voltage-programmingunbr...
However, if it’s one driver you’re talking about it’s cheaper and less frustrating to just get a new one. I used the reset pin quite a lot on the ATtiny85 so I needed this in order to be able to flash after activating reset pin as IO.
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