I’m modding a Thrunite TN36, direct swap from MKR to XHP70, what kind of increase can I expect with stock driver? It is heavily glued so I’d rather leave the driver alone… Anyone?
also interested!
i was thinking to switch the MM18 to XHP70 and maybe shave the XM-L2…
I’d be interested to know too. I don’t know about the stock driver but Vinh was able to get more lumens out of the MKRs than the XHP70s.
You can check here! for measurements.
I looked into this mod for a friend a while back. Assuming high binned emitters, a quick comparison using crees product characterization tool showed very little to no advantage of swapping emitters at the stock TN36 driver current.
I’m thinking XHP70 swap for the better tint as well, also with shaved dome! How do I go about the current bump with the driver heavily glued in? And also some kind of red glue/sealant over the components
Technically true, but I did noticed that there were two different batteries used (a rare exception in the string of tests).
Note the change of 2310 less from the batteries and going from CW to WW.
Thrunite TN36vn 3x XHP cool white
Sony vtc5
7829@ turn on
7594@ 30sec
2350 high
748 mid
84 low
1 firefly
Throw - 21,000 Lux
Thrunite TN36vn 3x MKR WW
Sony vtc5
6211@ turn on
6002@ 30sec
2023 high
718 mid
61 low
1 firefly
Throw - 22,000 Lux
Thrunite TN36vn 3x MKR cool white
Samsung 20r
8521@ turn on
8025@ 30 sec
2766 high
958 mid
108 low
1 firefly
Throw - 31,000 lux
Thrunite TN36vn 3x MTG2
Samsung 20r
6720@ turn on
6407@ 30 sec
2157 high
741 mid
100 low
1 firefly
Throw - 17,000 lux
so with no ampere rising the increase of lumens is not high…
on the other hand just raising the Amps does not bring as much reachable lumens because of heat isssues of MK-Rs - right?
-> conclusio: swap and push Amps is the way to go??