Just getting around to modding my Nitefighter L1A, and realized I didn’t have a driver for it yet. I suspect that this would be hard to assemble by hand, but much easier reflowing. It also requires cutting the center pin from the 7135.
As always, if you see something that could be improved, let me know.
Minion Rev1 (Current)
Reserved
Well done!
My L1A being still in pieces, I'm obviously interested :-)
So this is a 3x7135 lineair driver operated by e-switch. Does it use the common 105C parts? And what firmware is suitable? And what will be the parasitic drain (very relevant for a 14500 light)
(Btw, what is always a problem with these nice boards, I can not, and will not be able to, flash Attinies, so when time comes, I will need help from someone)
yep, it’s the same electrical layout as a 105C or Wight’s PZL. Any of the normal firmwares will work, but might need to tweak values a little bit to keep modes evenly spaced.
FYI this driver goes in these lights
(can’t find it on BG though 
)
Is it single AA or double with zener?
Believe it or not…1A driver on a XM-L/L2 throws ALOT of light, doesn’t generate excessive heat and will run a VERY VERY VERY long time even on high!
Beautiful design!
Yes, unfortunately it looks like they are no longer being made. I couldn’t find anywhere with them in stock.
I agree, 1amp puts out much more light than you would think. Since this is such a small light, I probably will only populate 2 of the 7135’s and run it at 760ma. I just wanted to fit 3 to see if I could :bigsmile:
Have you considered ordering a batch of flashed mcu’s from RMM?
This is a stupid question but I'm still new to drivers, so bear with me. Can this be modded to use a tail switch?
The driver or the L1A?
The driver. I think I just don't wire the e-switch and run standard programming but I wanted to confirm.
Correct. You might have to get creative if you want to use an off-time cap. Brown-out detection would be easier.
Does NLITE use Brown-Out Detection?
Nlite uses on-time memory, which would also work