BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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hank
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Is there a workaround centering ring/reflector insulator to replace the one that clips onto the reflector?

One that will stick down to the emitter base and stay put there?

SIGShooter
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xzel87 wrote:

I’m having waterproofing issues with the new head… Water seems to be coming in from the body side where the reflector portion screws on to the head.

 

Copper ring looks a bit tarnished, is that okay?, it’s in a bag of rice now drying up

Did it get wet from rain? Or did you drop it into a puddle, etc? Just wondering to gauge how water resistant it is (or isn’t).

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xzel87 wrote:

I’m having waterproofing issues with the new head… Water seems to be coming in from the body side where the reflector portion screws on to the head.

 

Copper ring looks a bit tarnished, is that okay?, it’s in a bag of rice now drying up

If you’re in to high amps I would polish the ring some how.

Dustin

xzel87
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SIGShooter wrote:
xzel87 wrote:

I'm having waterproofing issues with the new head... Water seems to be coming in from the body side where the reflector portion screws on to the head.

 

Copper ring looks a bit tarnished, is that okay?, it's in a bag of rice now drying up

Did it get wet from rain? Or did you drop it into a puddle, etc? Just wondering to gauge how water resistant it is (or isn't).

 

Light rinse under the tap to clean it off after doing some soil work in the garden.

 

For the record,  this only happens with the new replacement head. The old head didn't leak at all even when submerged in a bucket. Old head had low mode problems.


Another observation, I tried to lego the reflector portion of the old head to new head, it wouldn't screw tight. If I had to guess, I would say that the erratic manufacturing tolerances is not only affecting whether light turns on or not, in some cases like mine, the manufacturing tolerances affects waterproofness as well.

hank
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Quote:
the erratic manufacturing tolerances is not only affecting whether light turns on or not, in some cases like mine, the manufacturing tolerances affects waterproofness as well.

You might check the O-ring — notoriously a bit too snug in the early ones so it would slip out of the groove and apear behind the lens.

But if they substituted a thinner (cross-section, like 0.5mm or 1mm) rather than wider (inner diameter, something under 20mm) O-ring, it might not slip out of the groove, and yet, wouldn’t fill the groove so wouldn’t keep water out.

Just speculating, of course. Sometimes fixing one problem causes another problem elsewhere. It’s one of those QA/QC checklist items.

SIGShooter
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hank wrote:
Quote:
the erratic manufacturing tolerances is not only affecting whether light turns on or not, in some cases like mine, the manufacturing tolerances affects waterproofness as well.

You might check the O-ring — notoriously a bit too snug in the early ones so it would slip out of the groove and apear behind the lens.

But if they substituted a thinner (cross-section, like 0.5mm or 1mm) rather than wider (inner diameter, something under 20mm) O-ring, it might not slip out of the groove, and yet, wouldn’t fill the groove so wouldn’t keep water out.

Just speculating, of course. Sometimes fixing one problem causes another problem elsewhere. It’s one of those QA/QC checklist items.


I could be wrong but I think xzel87 is saying that it’s leaking where the entire head screws into the body and not from the lenses side. Checking the O-ring where it screws into the body is a good idea. Maybe it’s missing, damaged, etc.

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Gando wrote:
“Long tap: Do a long (longer than 1.5s) half-press to reset to the first mode (if mode memory is turned off).”

My version (latest batch) takes about 5 seconds to reset to the moon mode with a long press. Conclusively, turning off the light then on within 5 seconds registers as a medium half-tap so goes in reverse rather that straight to moon.


That’s pretty unusual. First time anyone has mentioned an issue like that, I think.

If you have tools to flash the driver it should be relatively easy to investigate and fix, but without those tools it likely won’t change. There could be a driver component out of spec or something, like maybe the big and little capacitors got swapped. Hard to say by guessing though.

xzel87
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SIGShooter wrote:
hank wrote:
Quote:
the erratic manufacturing tolerances is not only affecting whether light turns on or not, in some cases like mine, the manufacturing tolerances affects waterproofness as well.
You might check the O-ring -- notoriously a bit too snug in the early ones so it would slip out of the groove and apear behind the lens. But if they substituted a thinner (cross-section, like 0.5mm or 1mm) rather than wider (inner diameter, something under 20mm) O-ring, it might not slip out of the groove, and yet, wouldn't fill the groove so wouldn't keep water out. Just speculating, of course. Sometimes fixing one problem causes another problem elsewhere. It's one of those QA/QC checklist items.
I could be wrong but I think xzel87 is saying that it's leaking where the entire head screws into the body and not from the lenses side. Checking the O-ring where it screws into the body is a good idea. Maybe it's missing, damaged, etc.

 

Correct. To be more precise, it's the reflector portion that screws on to the head. Checked and relubed the orings, no damage to them whatsoever. Still leaks. I just don't risk it and submerge it in water anymore. I'm sure it would be fine with splashes (rain) but submerging is a big NO.

 

Abit dissapointed with the waterproofing of my unit but nevertheless still a good deal considering what it is.

hank
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Quote:
the reflector portion that screws on to the head.

Tried adding some conductive lube/bulb grease?

Of course if it’s hot when it gets wet and cools off, it’ll pull a lower pressure and suck water in unless it’s really tightly sealed.

SIGShooter
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xzel87 wrote:

SIGShooter wrote:
hank wrote:
Quote:
the erratic manufacturing tolerances is not only affecting whether light turns on or not, in some cases like mine, the manufacturing tolerances affects waterproofness as well.
You might check the O-ring — notoriously a bit too snug in the early ones so it would slip out of the groove and apear behind the lens. But if they substituted a thinner (cross-section, like 0.5mm or 1mm) rather than wider (inner diameter, something under 20mm) O-ring, it might not slip out of the groove, and yet, wouldn’t fill the groove so wouldn’t keep water out. Just speculating, of course. Sometimes fixing one problem causes another problem elsewhere. It’s one of those QA/QC checklist items.
I could be wrong but I think xzel87 is saying that it’s leaking where the entire head screws into the body and not from the lenses side. Checking the O-ring where it screws into the body is a good idea. Maybe it’s missing, damaged, etc.

 

Correct. To be more precise, it’s the reflector portion that screws on to the head. Checked and relubed the orings, no damage to them whatsoever. Still leaks. I just don’t risk it and submerge it in water anymore. I’m sure it would be fine with splashes (rain) but submerging is a big NO.

 

Abit dissapointed with the waterproofing of my unit but nevertheless still a good deal considering what it is.


Maybe a thicker o-ring would help? Sounds like the current one is slightly too thin.

9mm/40cal/45cal bullets and large/small pistol primers available for sale in San Francisco Bay area

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Currently Bang-goods is going to be shipping me a new tube, since mine is shorter than spec, but by bypassing the tailcap to turn on the flashlight, I just noticed that I also received the wrong LED tint. I ordered a 1A (cool), but I think I received the warm light version (5a). It took me 2.5 weeks to convince them that my flashlight was defective and since I have the wrong LED, would it be worth trying to get another LED, or would they just assume that I am trying to scam them out of a flashlight and cancel my replacement tube. I don’t have another flashlight with a known LED tint, but I have a no-name flashlight in comparison on a white surface to try to show the different tints. Left is the A6 and the other is the cheap one.
Image

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Retriever222 wrote:
Another Problem

Currently Bang-goods is going to be shipping me a new tube, since mine is shorter than spec, but by bypassing the tailcap to turn on the flashlight, I just noticed that I also received the wrong LED tint. I ordered a 1A (cool), but I think I received the warm light version (5a). It took me 2.5 weeks to convince them that my flashlight was defective and since I have the wrong LED, would it be worth trying to get another LED, or would they just assume that I am trying to scam them out of a flashlight and cancel my replacement tube. I don’t have another flashlight with a known LED tint, but I have a no-name flashlight in comparison on a white surface to try to show the different tints. Left is the A6 and the other is the cheap one.
Image

Can't see your pic.  Surprised

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cajampa
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Yeah the left is absolutely not an 1A cool white tint.

Retriever222
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I don’t want to seem like I am trying to get a free flashlight out of them, but I didn’t receive what I ordered, In your opinion should I just be happy with my incorrect order and hope that the replacement tube will fix my light or should I take the chance and try to get both my in-spec tube and correct LED (or complete head, depending on how hard it is to swap out) and risk having my tube canceled for looking like I am trying to milk there profits and get free parts. I guess at the end of the day I just want the flashlight to work, but I would much prefer to get what I ordered.

cajampa
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Why are you assuming they would think you are scamming them?

Just ask politely for what you ordered and try as best you can to provide evidence that they send the wrong light to you.

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Just my pessimistic personality I guess.

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Be nice. Until it’s time to not be nice – Patrick Swayze

In this case it’s a good idea to just keep being nice until it’s resolved but depending on your level of dissatisfaction don’t let it go past the the paypal time limit and let them be not nice instead.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I was not able to use paypal, because the link did not work for what ever reason, so I had to just use my debit card.

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I would want them to correct the issues. But then again 5a tint isn’t the end of the world. Take it outside once you get your new tube and check it out. The warmer tints are pretty sweet looking on natural scenes. You may really like it! I lucked out and every light I’ve ordered had worked but I couldn’t swap parts between my bare light and my anodized lights. Tail cap to deep.

Dustin

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Guys I’m looking at TIR lens. Don;t know if it will fit and I need help!
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020644
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021698
Do i need this? http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020961

And another thing, why cant I open the bezel of my anodized A6 but I can on the bare Alu one?

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

Rufusbduck
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Stripped lenses like those spread the beam sideways perpendicular to the lines.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Stripped lenses like those spread the beam sideways perpendicular to the lines.

Yeap! I wanna use it on my bike! I have the 15 degree TIR on the way alr

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

hank
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hank wrote:
LMGTFY: http://budgetlightforum.com/search?q_as=%22stuck%20head%22

It might have been jammed/cross threaded. Haven’t heard of them being glued.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Maybe try warming the head+pill without the battery tube then ice the pill and quickly twist.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

dudunphy
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I started compiling some of your guy's advice into post #2 but (I'm guessing) because I started this thread with a simple post editor I can't go back and use the advanced when I go to edit it. Luckily I was able to save it as a word doc but I really wanted the text color option or something besides bullet points to get it organized. I'll figure it out somehow.....

Dustin

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Just use the Advanced Text Editor.

By clicking the Input format, located directly below the text box.

 

You can add color.

 

Change font types.

 

Change font size.


And highlight text.

 

 

And for really complex editingdo it on a word documentthen cut & paste it into the Advanced Text Editor.

Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.

dudunphy
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Hah! Thanks! I had gone into my account and changed it for topics and comments but I didn't realize you could change it with input format! I probably clicked that when I first started but didn't really want the advanced editor and then totally forgot it was there. I'm pretty new to forums......:) Thanks again! 

Dustin

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FWIW, you can also just add some HTML and/or CSS to your posts when you need extra formatting. It works, and that’s what the advanced editor does. It also makes quoting easier for the rest of us, since it won’t have gratuitous &nbsp; symbols and <span style=“foo”> tags and redundant attributes everywhere getting in the way of the text.

For example, if I quote 1dash1’s post above… it looks like this:

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