Just recieved my blf a6, does anyone know is there any way to change the firmware so that instead of going from low to turbo it goes from turbo to low? (On the first click) if not its going 2b dangerous for a light used by a LEO.
I’m still pretty green when it comes to flashlights…be gentle 
I don’t think there is any way for it to always turn on in turbo, but you can turn on mode memory and leave it on turbo when you shut it off so that it will turn on in turbo the next time.
Also, I don’t know if you know, but you can hold the switch semi-pressed for a full second in order to go from low to turbo.
You would have to order a different driver from RMM with a UI that starts in turbo instead.
turn on mode memory and turn it off in turbo. next time you turn it on, it will start on turbo then go to low, etc…
but remember you need to turn it off in turbo each and everytime.
Sorry, but I can’t see any responsible LEO using this flashlight as his primary flashlight. Even as a backup, I’d be leery about carrying it. Too many quirky QC issues that plague the flashlight. It’s not the kind of flashlight to be using in life-or-death circumstances.
What’s a LEO?
Actually Dash there are quite a few that are using this light ;) The weight of the unit, ability to place in shirt pocket and the floody characteristic (compared to the pencil beam SL HL) is what the attraction is. Of course, they have been checked as all tools should be.
To the OP...set the memory function and read up on the UI. That way you can see how to go forwards and backwards from Hi to Lo and Lo to Hi
Thanks for posting the graphics Bugsy, that makes settings and selections far more easily understandable Though I’m not yet understanding of such matters, the light can be reprogrammed with extra equipment according to ToyKeeper and others. Advanced modding level, I’m not there yet.
And to 1 dash 1, I only partially agree. Yes there have been problems, but there have been good lights too and those seem to be very good. If you have a good one it would serve LEO purposes very well, but if you’re buying for that purpose you may not receive a good one so that advice is then good advice. For that kind of use all equipment should be well-tested before being trusted and only the best you can get is good enough.
I got lucky with getting a good one. My only problem is that this light is so darn nice I hesitate to carry it as often as I wanted to because I can be pretty hard on things unintentionally. I guess I’ll have to wait till I “dent the door of my new car” before I’ll get over that. I truly do love this light, a very versatile well-rounded package of everything including price. If it was the only flashlight you ever had you wouldn’t be missing too much.
Phil
Law Enforcement Officer — a cop.
And I agree with some of the others here. The A6 is a nice light and a really fun project, but there’s no way in hell I’d trust my life to it.
I work in and with Law Enforcement and believe me most of them have low quality lights. The ones that think they have quality kit use old Maglites or LED Lenser lights. I used up until recently a Thrunite T12. Now I tend to rotate what I buy via this place and that includes the A6. I don’t worry about reliability and have never been caught out and neither have the guys with cheap rubbish lights. I carry a rotation of single AA lights in my pocket should the need arise any way. I do wonder if the kinds of people that automatically default to the likes of Surefire and the like have issues. It would be different if I was being sent on a long term black op with a guaranteed fire fight at the end of it but that is pure fantasy even for most forces people.
I’ve just bought a BLF A6 from Banggood. I’m new to the flashlight scene and i’m struggling with the modes of this light. Is there any user manual that i can go to and try to learn how this light works? Thanks for your help!
Best Regards
Thank you very much…
There is the diagram posted above: http://i.imgur.com/wOWIbiC.png, and text at: ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk : contents of ToyKeeper/blf-a6/blf-a6.txt at revision 249.
I guess the only description of the hardware is here: Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available
I know what you mean, for some lights I want first click straight to highest mode first. I’m not a LEO but sometimes I want to carry a flashlight for self defense purposes along with my CCW.
If I was a LEO I sure wouldn’t want to scroll through any modes if I needed to blast my flashlight on quickly to light up a search area or chase down a suspect.
Also for personal home use sometimes I want that arrangement too, lets say I hear a unusual sound out in the driveway or yard in the middle of the night and go outside to check, when I come out the door with my light what I want is one click to turbo. And mode memory doesn’t cut it because I have to worry what mode I left it in last. That’s why I like my Small Sun Zy-T13, the tail switch always comes to high (no memory) and the side switch for mode changes.
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IMO the best “tactical” / SD system is with 2 switches, A forward clicky tail switch that always comes on in highest level every time no matter what (no memory), then a side switch that changes modes. It has to have a tail switch for the direct-to-high feature because I don’t want to take more time to orientate / locate a side switch. No messing around because I always know exactly where the tail switch is!
Its hard to find that arrangement but there are a few out there, and this type mostly are designed specifically for LEO/Military. Crelant and Klarus comes to mind.
Klarus has a dual tail switch system on some of their models with a taller switch comes always to high and the lower switch can be strobe or modes.
In their words:
“full power (High mode) is activated every time you press the main button and there is no memory, so zero chance of activating Low mode in a CQB situation”
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+1, but on mine its not even a full second, it works at a little more than half a second - seems if I try to go a full second it resets back to 1st mode (but I’m probably just holding too long)
SCD, Although its not turbo on first click, its pretty close.
It takes some time/practice to get used to but basically I do this for quick-to-turbo operation:
1. Full click on (light comes on in moon)
2. Light (half) press and hold for over half a second and release - BINGO-TURBO!
From there if you do 2 more full clicks rapidly it comes to STROBE.
Once you get used to it, it’s actually pretty quick. For me this “quick access to turbo” is one of the best features of the UI.
The diagram can be a little confusing at first, here’s a link to the text instructions:
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/head%3A/ToyKeeper/blf-a6/blf-a6.txt
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Should a lesser known brand/budget brand flashlight ever be used for a LEO’s primary light? (or anyone who may need to use a flashlight in life-or-death circumstances)
Some people may feel the “kind of flashlight” to be used for “critical circumstances” should be a well known brand and a model designed specifically for LEO/Military/SD (Nitecore/Olight/Klarus/Eagletac etc.) and I can understand the basic reasoning behind that. However due to the more conservative nature of those brands it would be hard to find one that can put out the “Intense storm of light” in such a compact package as the A6.
So I can see why a LEO would want to carry a “modded” high output hot rod, at least as a secondary flashlight. I’m sure the department is not going to issue one like that.
I don’t think the OP stated his A6 was going to be used as his primary flashlight, and I’m thinking he is a “responsible” LEO.
After going over the light and taking care of any QC or other issues I could see an A6 being used a a backup or secondary light, and in certain situations could even take first place. After all (as any electronic equipment) brand names like Streamlight, Nitecore, Olight, Klarus, Eagletac etc. can also fail or malfunction. And not every officer can afford a $100+ flashlight.
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Dash, I’m not doubting this but could you point out some of the “many quirky QC issues that plague the flashlight”?
The A6 thread is so big I haven’t been able to read through all the posts about it. Fortunately I haven’t had any issues with mine but I’m wondering what to watch out for. (I did read about the battery tube machining issue and can see that in my sample as well, however AFAIK it does not affect the operation in any way)
EDIT: I also was just reading about your driver springs issue in the A6 Bare thread, that sucks, it not something that would cause the light to fail but I agree that is a pretty major QC issue, and it makes you loose confidence with the overall manufacturing process.
It seems to happen often with these budget lights, the good components when they are first released, until they run out, then on the second, third run etc. they cut costs with cheaper components (or maybe whatever they have available) just to get them back on the market.
I’m planning on getting a bare one too but I’m not happy about the longer, weaker, higher resistance driver spring. Or all the order mix ups with the different tints.
I know this was posted above, but its what helped me the most on the A6 UI:
Mr Beano, some of the problems plaguing the A6 were manufacturing inconsistencies like threading not cut far enough to fully tighten retaining rings or tube threads too short to make contact. The spacer disc was not strong enough or large enough or may not slippery enough and would shear when the reflector and bezel are tightened down, sometimes removing the silicon die cover and destroying the led. On mine milling flash cut one of the wires when the mcpcb shifted under this same torque. Some of the issues are fixable only if you are a competent modded and can locate the problem. I have no idea what the percentage of miscues is but at least for me the design of the light, the choice of led, and the fantastic ui made it worth the risk. For those that are unable to deal with any problems I can certainly see how they might feel it’s not for them. Mine worked fine straight out of the box, it was only from fooling around with it do much that the wire issue came to be.
Thanks for the rundown. I also see there are crappy driver springs on the later versions. I’m going to have to do some more reading in the threads.
I haven’t any of those issues but I also haven’t tried to turn, tighten/loosen the retaining ring or disassemble it so I guess I wouldn’t know until I do, (if I do).
All BLF A6 owners and prospective buyers should read https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/35447 thread
In case you’ve got the old square centering ring, on first disassembly hold your thumb on the lens so that the reflector does not rotate as you unscrew it. Ditto on reassembly if you’ve got the square one. Mid-GB production onward had the round version. The later driver spring is a bit wimpy but OK overall.
My only modding plans is to change both springs for better ones more evenly matched and to bypass them.
Phil
+1 (I’m subscribed to it) For some reason your link isn’t working, but here it is:
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I’ve got the square ring and the better “1st run” springs. So far I have no reason to remove the bezel. If I ever do need to go in there I’d want to just replace the ring with a round one for the re-assembly and future dis-assembly. I think remember seeing somewhere somebody posted a link to one that would work but I guess any would as long as the hole is correct for the LED.
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I’ll probably need to do that on the bare version that I’m ordering. And just the bypasses on my black one.