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pilotdog68
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DB Custom wrote:
With the equivalent of 4 XM-L2 dies on board, at only 1.7A available for each one (here we go again, probably figuring this wrong)

If he’s getting 6amps at the tail, it would be 3amps to each 3v die. Wink Very rough example: 6amps at 6v = 36watts = 12amps at 3v split between 4 dies = 3amps each.
DB Custom wrote:
Makes me wonder if the Illuminations Machines Lum 5-90 would fit in there and maybe give some space to raise the shelf

I thought about this briefly, but the Boss reflector is pretty shallow. I think you would actually have to extend the bezel somehow for it to fit. (which is a bummer)

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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Sorry for the interjection here folks, gotta wrap my feeble mind around this while the opportunity is present… I know the XHP-70 has 2S2P on the 4 dies, and is 6V in that configuration. So with 6A, each pair is getting 3A at 6V. Since it’s the voltage getting split, the amperage remains the same? Is that it? Like an inverse of doubling cells in series keeps capacity at single cell level and doubles voltage, parallel cells doubles capacity and keeps voltage at single cell, so because the paired 3V emitters are splitting the 6V power supply, the amperge remains the same at 3A, ok, I can see that. Hope I can remember it. (you noticed my statement was flagging my memory, even if I couldn’t remember why, lol)

Ok then, we know the XM-L2 or XP-L die can take 5A+, so there’s headroom either way. Smile Some 4A to be had there, Go for it! hahaha

(yes, I have destroyed plenty of expensive emitters in my time. How about slipping and crashing the bond wires on a bare Luminous SBT-70? I like to remove the window, the AR coating gets in the way, yeah, that was a cursing, cringe producing moment to be sure.)

pilotdog68
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DB Custom wrote:
Since it’s the voltage getting split, the amperage remains the same? Is that it? Like an inverse of doubling cells in series keeps capacity at single cell level and doubles voltage, parallel cells doubles capacity and keeps voltage at single cell, so because the paired 3V emitters are splitting the 6V power supply, the amperage remains the same at 3A

Yup

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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Okay, let me make sure I’ve got this straight…

If I buy my wife 2 boxes of chocolates, her smile lasts a limited time but her capacity of enjoyment increases. If I buy her chocolates AND a bouquet of flowers, her capacity of enjoyment remains the same but her smile lasts longer. Right?

Oh, and mentioning her increased capacity shortens my life span, like an abused high discharge cell. Wink

Tom E
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A UCLp lens is officially listed for this light now, here: https://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=display&ref=apps_specs Smile, and I got the first on the way SmileCool.

DB Custom
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Nice work Tom! Smile So do I put the horse… order the lens… before the cart… before the light? I DO have several other sizes I’ve been intending to order….

Tom E
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We need to know where this stands with freeme. I haven't talked/pm'ed to him at all on this. He's got a decent # signed up, not great #'s, but didn't expect that - pretty specialized. CWK looks like he did a nice job for an XHP70, could have been pushed higher though, and I set mine up more for max throwing, but I'm still nowhere near where I want it to be. Both though show the potential.

What CWK did though could also work with a buck driver, driving a XP-G2 at high amps. If a copper heat sink could be machined to fit in place with the aluminum shelf, or replace the shelf, it would be pretty awesome.

What I'm wait'n on is:

  • parts to come in to build up a driver
  • hot dedome XP-G2 S2 2B's I have and cherry pick the best performer for amps. Clamp meter would come in handy for this.
  • 90mm UCLp to arrive, it's shipped

 

 

freeme
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Hello, I am right here. Cool 

I did propose to Neal to see if manufacturer is able to corporate with us to improve on the little parts like retaining rings, screw threads, etc. Communication has been slow... Kind of stuck in the 56K modem era. Probably we have not achieved the number a decent number to expedite this project.

If you guys feel that current quality is acceptable, he should be able to get it up within a week. What you guys think?

©freemex1thedeals.com

pilotdog68
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I’m running low on cash at the moment (other flashlight purchases) so I can wait, but I’ll let the other list members decide what they want to do. I’m fine with how it is now.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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I can’t really add either as I have the ability to make whatever changes I deem fit and appropriate. I’ll machine a new copper emitter shelf and give it more depth with some flared shoulders on top for total mass, not a problem to get it ready to run hard. Might even thread the area where it sits so the new copper piece threads in snug without screws to hold it down. Would have to have it in hand to figure all that out though.

Obviously, I’ll do things not easily accomplished without a lathe, so I’m just riding on the back of the wagon waiting for it all to shake loose. Wink

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Boy, those are the only two issues I have some concerns about - the body-head threads and the driver retaining ring. I'd say give it a little more time to see if improvements in those two areas could be worked out. If they can't, don't think all is lost. I'd order another one. So far, the threads and retaining ring are holding up fine for me. I'm more concerned about the body threads than the retainer ring, because if I resell these modded, the buyer has to deal with the body tube threads every time they change/charge cells, while I'm the only one who should be dealing with the retaining ring. Plus there's other reasonable options with the retaining ring (glue like an SRK for example), and much more involved in fixing up or improving the body threads.

Thinking if I can sand down those brass bumps with a rotary tool, it would help. Also might help using shorter springs, or cutting them down. Right now to get the threading to start, it can be a little struggle. Certainly a ring like SRK's or the COURUI (or Crelant 7G9) would be better, but my machining abilities are limited.

pilotdog68
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Sand the nubs down to almost nothing, find a big-enough zinc-steel washer, and solder it over the top of the nubs. It worked great with my SP03

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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Tom, I could cut you some rings from copper or brass, no big deal on the lathe. Just shout out some dims and we’ll go from there. Mine’s a manual set-up, so I can’t just dial up a number and let it run, but I can turn a few ya know?

Tom E
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Hhmm... Just wondering if the brass knobs are better pts of contact than a ring for these flat top EFEST 26650's... The spring, specially with the bypass wires, is probably just too much force

johny723
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are the body threads such a nightmare even when you apply some lube and shorten the springs and get rid of the knobs?

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johny723 wrote:
are the body threads such a nightmare even when you apply some lube and shorten the springs and get rid of the knobs?

They're my major concern from the pics. Very few and very sharp From the looks of it. They can be a pain in the butt, based on other soupcan lights I've come across with similar threads.

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johny723 wrote:
are the body threads such a nightmare even when you apply some lube and shorten the springs and get rid of the knobs?

For me, dunno - didn't do any of that yet Smile. Mostly it's the springs I'm fighting, I believe, but the bumps don't make it any easier. Hhmm - think I only lightly lubes them, mainly the o-rings. It's also so awkward because it's so darn big and heavy - SRK's are sooo much easier handling.

Ohhh - I had it in a bag, mil style, with a pull string around the top. Fumbled with my hands full loading it and couple of other things into the back seat of my car, 1st day of wearing gloves - 12F outside that morn, and I freak'n dropped it in the seat, then it rolled out the door on the blacktop. Only a slight ding at the tail - it might have slipped out of the bag on the tail end. The o-ring around the lens popped out about half around, and was easy to get back in. From that I believe the reflector isn't tight in there - some play at the front end of the bezel. Gotta check, but think the UCLp is a little thicker, so may make it tighter, or may have to add a copper shim under the Noctigon MCPCB.

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Hmm, not really sure what to do now! Kinda low on cash but that is not a biggest issue.
There are just to many things that need to be addressed so this light could be “wow light”,
making a new LED shelf and a brass ring to replace battery contacts (I predicted they will be a problem) on a driver, this require tools that I do not have or have access to, machining shop would strip me for at least 30€ just to make this 2 things, + XHP35Hi (yes I would like to go that route) + new driver … additional 60$ on top of the light’s price to make something out of it.
Now, making a proper LED shelf and battery contacts by manufacturer would mean tremendous help for guys without the lathe.
And not to forget that awful handle, that needs to be dealt with also…

I like the looks and huge reflector but I am not sure that buying it would be right thing to do…

 

Tom E
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Yikes, you really don't have to do any of that stuff to get 700+ kcd from this light, but totally understand if you want to go the XHP35 HI route - 6v required I think, so you'd either have to use 18350's for short high output, low runtime or do the battery flip-over mod, which is beyond me too at this point.

Practically a stock Shocker can do lots of lumens and throw, modded Shockers I did went over 5K lumens and close to 600 kcd, so the XHP35's or 50's don't interest me much. Modding a J18 or other 7 to 12 LED shower heads can also do much more lumens and good throw, depending on using HI LED's or dedoming, or favor lumens over throw like Dale did with the 3 XHP70 Shocker mod.

The BOSS1 is nicely setup for a simpler DD max thrower with lots of power and runtime - cheapest and simplest way to get there, compared to a TM36 or TK61.

 

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The XHP35 is actually 12v only, so sirius is planning a 4S setup

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
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What's the thrill/advantage to something like a XHP35 HI? Clearly it would have more lumens, take more power than a XPL HI or dedomed XPL, dedomed XM-L2, but would it throw any further in a big reflector compared to a dedomed XM-L2/XPL or dedomed XP-G2? I didn't think so because of the bog surface area, but dunno.

pilotdog68
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I remember one person in the homebuilt contest was not happy with how the 35 performed, so much so that he turned a brand new head on his lathe to use the XHP70 instead. Search ‘Arc of Josiah’

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

johny723
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how about replacing the whole original contact board ? I mean making a new contact board from a PCB and then just glueing a thin copper (or any other) washer to it. That should provide plenty of connection with minimal resistance and soldering wires (either to direct drive a led or for a driver) to the negative (the rim) and positive (the ceinter) part of the board would be easy.

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Just topped off the cells to about 4.22v, and did an outdoor 10 meter measurement and got 645 kcd (1606 meters, 5269 feet), 11 feet short of a mile Cry. After the test I measured amps across the switch and got 6.25A. Previously I measured 5.95A and 635 kcd measured at 5m indoors, but since then I applied NO-OX-ID to the soldered up banana connectors, and freshened up the DMM lead ends, so probably got a bump in the readings. Got a UNI-T 210E clamp meter on the way, and also looking at building up a 0.01 ohm 50 watt resistor in a test fixture.

When the UCLp arrives, should be about 700 kcd then.

pilotdog68
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Give me the dimensions, I can draw up an Oshpark board

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Kinda missed the part that XHP35 is 12V only, doh, thought it was a 6V like rest of the XHP family.
Also, can’t find that thread atm, but new single cell boost XHP driver is on the way, for 6V leds of course.
Idea behind the XHP35HI was to get more lumens than you would get with XML2, a bit wider beam, but not to lose on throw.

 

Tom E
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The threads have been a concern of mine, but maybe I'm over worried. I just threaded/unthreaded the tube with cells in it about 4 times this evening, and took a picture afterwards. What I thought was new wear and rubbed off anodizing turned out to be wrong - it was there when I first got the light. Didn't realize it's been like that from day 1, til I looked at the picture.

Also, think I'm getting used to it now. It's important to go CCW first to get it set right, then start tightening.

Mouse-over: latest pic from tonight (better focused), mouse-out: original pic from 1st day

Sorry for the pics, they don't line up well in positioning, lighting or focus. But think you can see they look pretty much the same. I tried to find the exact position showing the first flattened or square thread, then the 3 more pointy ones. You'd think it's from wear but it's how the light came.

I think the first flattened thread is done that way intentionally - it's even got an angle to it.

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could you post some beamshots?

Tom E
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johny723 wrote:
could you post some beamshots?

Hhmm, I'm not set up very well for beamshots, but I could see what I can do maybe this weekend. I'm assuming you mean real distance outdoors, not white wall shots? For outdoors, not sure if it's worth much without comparison shots. On Long Island, there isn't much in available open spaces, accept maybe at the beach's, and the beach's are pretty restrictive around here, more so at night. Over water it would be cool, but public access to docks and things are usually lit up too much - we have lots of light pollution here as well. Bout all high points of buildings and such are also lit up pretty good, no terrain to speak of, things are pretty flat.

Thinking maybe if I can find some power lines, towers, a water tank, etc., light pollution and access though... Probably can do trees at 100-200 meters - need to figure something out.

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Could you also compare a dedomed xm-l2u41c and xp-g2 with this xp-l led? I ( and surely many others) would like to see the difference between them.

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