I’d like to be able to waterproof a C8, and perhaps others. Id like to be able to put it under the faucet or take it canoeing, if possible. So under a meter should work. How would I do this?
I searched a bit on the forum, didn’t find much. I don’t want to fill with mineral oil.
Thanks in advance
Put silicon grease on the threads. You can also add a second o-ring.
This would be tricky at best to keep it useable and waterproof…
Best thing would be a drybag or a drybox for storage of the C8 and spares. A small fully waterproof light to find the storage box the big one is in may be the most reliable way.
So the silicone grease keeps water out pretty well? Also I was concerned with the rear rubber switch cover.
If water gets in, is there a short danger, I guess?
Im not an expert modder, why would that be? I was thinking maybe I could glue the rear switch cover somehow?
good idea！！！
If the switch retainer is tight the rubber boot cover should be waterproof. Any good quality brand name C8's with the orings lubed should be good to go out of the box after some careful checks. It sounds like you have some fun planned?
I got out one night about sundown, it was really nice canoeing. A bit hard to get back, though, kinda dark. Of course, since it was nice, I stayed out longer than expected 
Plus, deer hunting after sundown is illegal, and with it being hunting season, might be good to go out at sundown.
I hadn’t thought about that, good idea. need to see if the switch retainer is tight.
I thought you would be using it as a submersible light or some such. I guess a thick bead of silicone lube would work for what you need, and lube the O ring at the bezel well too…
A drizzle of silicone sealant around the rear switch boot may help or just lube it up too and screw the ring back in well…
I would be careful if you carry a light like a C8 and a firearm during deer season, you don’t want to be charged with “spotlighting” or some such thing…
Flashlights are rated under the IP Code where true immersibility begins at “IPx7” where an item must not have harmful water ingression when submerged 1m for 30 minutes. “IPx8” is similar but tested at 3m depth. Lights with lower ratings are not rated to be submerged in water though some may withstand that for a short time. Many reviews found here on BLF will have an ‘impromptu’ bathtub or sink test and with those you just have to consider if the posted results seem like they will meet your needs or not.
Other factors may also be involved. If a cold light it turned on them immersed, the air inside of it will expand as it heats, pressurizing the light which may help keep water out. Take a hot light, turn it off, then submerge it and the air inside will contact tending to draw water in. The water temperature will also have an effect.
Some lights may have space for extra “o-rings” which can assist in waterproofing and any “o-ring” can have a heavy-bodied grease applied to it which will assist sealing but that can degrade the “O-ring” over time. Thinner lubes intended for purposes like this may help keep the “o-ring” supple. Better or thicker “o-rings” can be used sometimes if you can find ones that work.
Switches can also leak. Tailswitches which have a retainer ring should be checked to ensure the ring is tight and that the rubber covering is in good condition. Side-switches may benefit from adding silicone sealer where they interface with the light body or head.
Lens sealing may have an “O-ring” of non-round shape; be sure those are replaced as they were installed. Also note that some lights may be shipped with the lens “o-ring” improperly installed such as between lens and reflector which will not seal to the head. The BLF A6 is a recent example of that.
Lights intended for diving should have a depth rating listed, these would all be waterproof to 1m of course. Even with rated lights I would prefer to test them before relying on them to be used while submerged since we all know that light production often changes over time so initial testing may no longer be valid (if it was true from the start!). And of course any light can be placed in a waterproof container though the container will affect the beam. On the water in a boat I’d attach a safety string for quick retrieval or attach the light to a hi-vis float so it could be retrieved quickly should it fall in. If holding it use the wrist lanyard. And for any essential item redundancy is always called for so have another light along just in case.
Phil
I test SolarForce lights I put together for friends and one of the test is in the pool for two days. Retaining ring on the tail switch is tightened up. Threads are greased with a tiny dab grease at the bezel, head and tail threads. Very tiny at the bezel or your lens will grease over went it gets warm. Oversized o rings might be needed haven’t yet though. If tail threads are loose then a layer or two of Teflon tape. Never had one fail 7’ of water for 48 hours. String and a fishing bobber to get it back. C8’s are just about the same for sealing up.
I have some testing experience in my background, definitely not an expert though. The submersible tests are good, the ones that surprise you are the blowing rain and spray tests… More water penetration than submersion tests, on items that have already passed the submersion test. Apparently there is a pressure differential during spray/blowing rain testing that occurs and more water penetrates. Also water is about 700 times denser than air, so air at 20mph has X amount of force, the same water at 20mph has much more impact, enough to find its way into things.
Also, the light heats up in use, the air inside expands, finds a way out. But it is still over pressure by some small amount compared to the ambient conditions. Turn it off and as it cools there is a vacuum created, albeit small, nature abhors them. Water is sucked into the light ever so slightly… The humidity inside the light rises due to the minimal water intrusion. It is as important to open the light and let it dry afterwards as the “waterproofing” of the light in use.
On the other hand… I have front pocket carried lights in extremely sweaty conditions and not had any water vapor inside with only moderate lube. I guess just clean ’it up and dry her out afterwards is the best thing… and a backup light :bigsmile:
WTH is spotlighting? Can’t carry a flashlight and a gun? How about a handgun? Some people a carry a gun just for a walk in the woods. I might, if I did walks in the woods. Though a large can of mace is good too. And of course most of us carry flashlights.
Ever heard the phrase “deer in the headlights”?
Ever noticed that when a deer gets caught looking right into the lights they tend to freeze?
Less than ethical ‘hunters’ can take advantage of this behavior with powerful lights. Lights that used to have to be mounted on trucks - or at least use car size batteries to pump out huge amounts of incandescent light.
About the same brightness as that little 18650 cell powered LED tube you got there in your pocket sir. Why exactly do you need such a powerful flashlight sir? Are you aware that hunting after dark is illegal? I’m going to need to see your hunting license and some ID sir…
All my C8s and convoys and other lights can be washed underneath the tap without problems. I however, once bought a POS C8 and waterproffed it by:
1)sanding down the bezel a 1/2 mm or so, for the bezel to screw in more and compress the ‘o’ ring better. (I’ve done this to my personal Convoy C8s as well.) You can also add a little spacer underneath the LED star to have the same effect.
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2)I also put some epoxy round the joint where the body tube screws into the head to seal that part. Another option at the bodytube/head interface is to stuff the joint with thick thermal paste before you screw together. You have the added benefit of better transfer of heat from head to body.
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3)Adding a second ’O’ring to the tailcap and making sure it is well lubed (to prevent tearing) helps. The tighter it is to screw on the tailcap, the more water resistance at that point.
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4)WRT the tailcap button, I believe that if the retaining ring is screwed in tightly, the seal will be GOOD however, in a situation where I only have one light, I would not change modes with it underwater. As pointed out before, the pressure changes can increase the likelyhood of water getting into the light.
IF you’re concerned about water splashing, rain or wet hands, I’m pretty sure most decent, stock lights can be used with confidence.
I’m really glad I asked some really good points and nuances here. Where can I get O rings? Not sure if my lights all have them or not. And put the Oring outside the glass, correct?
Interesting that the spray etc penetrates more, and good to hear that they’ve been submerged 7 ft. I could see where you might get some in there due to pressure changes.
Definitely planning to take backups. Wondering if there’s enough air in there to float a c8?
Spotlighting is night hunting, illegal for deer and other game animals. I wouldn’t want to have a rifle or shotgun handy and run into a game warden. Not sure how they’d look at a concealed carry handgun.
Good to know that you can put those under the faucet, I think when I use them, it will be above water. But the bottom of the canoe tends to be wet. Good points on the waterproofing
Got dielectric grease today, but I’m not having much luck yet. The weak points seem to be the switch cover and the front glass. I don’t think anything is getting by the threads.
Re-read this thread, need to put some dielectric silicone grease on the o-ring in front of the glass, I guess?
If I put the front under the faucet, I get water in the light. Maybe I’ll try submersion tomorrow, see if it will stand up to that?
It seems like you don’t want to tighten the switch retainer too well, which kind of makes sense, since it’s rubber.
put second and three oring！
When I'm out fishing , I put my phone in a Ziploc bag .
If I was worried about a light , I'd probably put it in a bag .
You'd still be able to use the light .
and it might float