Mod: My take on the convoy S series with side switch mod.

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Mike C
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Mod: My take on the convoy S series with side switch mod.

After making a ZY-T08 custom driver with dual switch support I’ve kind of gotten hooked on the functionality dual switch lights. And ever since I saw FmC’s S2+ mod with a side switch (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37721) I’ve wanted to build one to use with my firmware, especially since I made it ATtiny85 compatible (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42886).

Doing it on the S2+ was not appealing as it looked like a lot of work, and FmC wasn’t taking orders either, so I set my sights on the S3 as it has the integrated shelf (no pill). I had a whole bunch of different momentary switches to try out with the intent of mounting the switch inside the light and have a pin like FmC did, but it was far too tight inside the S3 to work, so I went with having the switch on the outside like Firelight2 did here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37873

The driver of choice: My new design with a PSMN3R0-30YLD FET and 8 x AMC 8135 (4 channels: 1,2,4 constant current and 1 for PWM between):

Stiff copper wire over the MCU instead of a spring to add space. Also a bit of that copper wire to bridge the solder pads for the channel configuration I wanted. I had to file out the retaining ring a little to get it on.

Drill a hole for the side switch wires and mount the Triple XPL-HI 5000K (to be used with Carclo 10507 optics). I did blow it clean with compressed air before mounting Smile

Put the light together with the switch on the outside:

I covered with tape to test, thinking what I was going to do to cover it up, maybe like Firelight2 did:

Not happy… FmC’s mod is far more appealing, mine just feels sub standard, I gotta do something better than this… So I ravaged through my stash of switches, looking at some I first discarded and found one that gave me an idea. The first hole wouldn’t cut it, I had to drill another a little further to the front, and bigger. Drill through with 5mm for the wires, and almost through with a 7mm drill, leaving a shelf for the switch:

I hit the inside of the shelf just as planned, so aiming was good. It was necessary as I needed some clearance from the back of the driver board.

Now I could solder the wires to the switch on the outside, not having to work in that tight confined space:

Now I just had to put a little glue on it and shove it in so the switch rests on the ledge I left. Now I’m happy! This is much more looking like what I wanted to achieve:

I’ll be on the lookout for a perfectly round switch, that would be the icing on the cake, but this is much cleaner than having the switch on the outside. So now I have my Convoy S series triple with dual switch setup Party

Edited by: Mike C on 12/05/2015 - 06:02
FmC
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Nice work, Mike!

I don't have any of the newer S style series with the solid shelf. What's the clearance (measurement)between the driver shelf & the underside of the LED shelf?

Beer

Mike C
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Thanks! It’s your light that inspired it Beer

I measured 6.35mm / 0.25 inch between the driver shelf and LED shelf. Another 1.5mm / 0.06 inch is lost due to AMC 7135 thickness.

The issue of keeping a switch on the inside fixed would have been the biggest headache. Can’t solder to coated aluminum and glue might loosen with time after things get hot. With my current solution the glue isn’t really needed to keep the switch fixed, it’s a snug fit into the hole as it is.

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Sounds like there is just enough clearance for a tactile switch to go inside the driver cavity.

I have a couple of ideas on how to fix the switch in place.

The only light I have with a solid shelf like this is my BLF A6...... hmmmm.

 

Mike C
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FmC wrote:

Sounds like there is just enough clearance for a tactile switch to go inside the driver cavity.

I have a couple of ideas on how to fix the switch in place.

The only light I have with a solid shelf like this is my BLF A6…… hmmmm.

 


Yep, I have a few switches that fit in there, and with thinner switch wires it wouldn’t be necessary to keep them short. Looking forward to seeing if you come up with something for the switch.

This is the original idea I had. This switch would have been perfect as the top sticks just slightly out of the hole in the host, but the body is too big. A driver board with AMCs won’t fit over it, only a bare board worked. This is definitely the road I would have gone down if it would have fit behind a populated driver.

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Nice work as usual.  I too struggle with added nicely integrated side switches to lights.  I have quite a few functional, but not attractive switches to finish somehow.

Best wishes on adding your finishing touches.  Sure looks like a fun light.

Mike C
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Nice work as usual.  I too struggle with added nicely integrated side switches to lights.  I have quite a few functional, but not attractive switches to finish somehow.

Best wishes on adding your finishing touches.  Sure looks like a fun light.


Thanks. Looking for that perfectly round black switch of the same size but they don’t seem to exist. The round ones I have found are way too big.
Rufusbduck
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One of these days I’m going to try my hand at this mod. Do you happen to know where you got the switch?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

M4D M4X
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nice work!

i am looking since forever for a SMD switch which is normaly CLOSED (opens when clicked)…
any idea where to get?

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

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Rufusbduck wrote:
One of these days I’m going to try my hand at this mod. Do you happen to know where you got the switch?

+1

lampyris
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Mike C wrote:
ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Nice work as usual.  I too struggle with added nicely integrated side switches to lights.  I have quite a few functional, but not attractive switches to finish somehow.

Best wishes on adding your finishing touches.  Sure looks like a fun light.

Thanks. Looking for that perfectly round black switch of the same size but they don’t seem to exist. The round ones I have found are way too big.

Here is a nice small round switch made by C&K http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/0102383/ not in black though Sad

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Very creative Mike. Thanks for showing us.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Mike C
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lampyris wrote:
Here is a nice small round switch made by C&K http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/0102383/ not in black though Sad

Thanks for the suggestion, but that switch is far to big and it’s not really round is in totally round, the body is square-ish. With the switch I used the whole switch sits inside a round 7mm hole, resting on a shelf. I don’t need the actual button to be round, but rather the whole switch case so it fits nicely into a round hole. This one would be the perfect switch if it was the same size as the one I used: http://uk.farnell.com/c-k-components/d6c90f1lfs/switch-spno-square-black...
JaredM wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
One of these days I’m going to try my hand at this mod. Do you happen to know where you got the switch?

+1


This the switch I used: http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/evpasbc1a/tactile-...
Those pins on the bottom bend inward, minimizing the risk of them shorting on the self of the smaller hole. The perfect switch had it only had a more aesthetically appealing round casing.
Rufusbduck
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My thought was to put an SMD switch on the board edge with only a button cover over it. Haven’t taken the time master eagle to that point yet and get through the whole process.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Mike C
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Rufusbduck wrote:
My thought was to put an SMD switch on the board edge with only a button cover over it. Haven’t taken the time master eagle to that point yet and get through the whole process.

Thought about that but getting the driver to stay put when screwing on the retaining ring is not so easy. Thinking it might break off a soldered on SMD switch. Can’t solder the driver to the pill as there is no pill.

I’ve just got some L4 hosts and will have to do that for the drivers that will go into them, but that host has slots to keep the driver from rotating. I think the method I used for the S3 is the absolute easiest, at least when not having the switch mounted on the outside.

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Mike C wrote:
This the switch I used: http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/evpasbc1a/tactile-...
Those pins on the bottom bend inward, minimizing the risk of them shorting on the self of the smaller hole. The perfect switch had it only had a more aesthetically appealing round casing.

Oops, sorry guys. That was the wrong switch linked. The switch in the photos is this one: http://uk.farnell.com/alps/skpmape010/switch-tactile-2-45n-6×6mm/dp/205...
Solder pins bend inwards to make “legs” under the switch, just like the Panasonic switch.

M4D M4X wrote:
nice work!

i am looking since forever for a SMD switch which is normaly CLOSED (opens when clicked)…
any idea where to get?


Thanks. I haven’t seen SMD switches with that functionality, only larger “normal” switches.