Brinyte B158 mod thread

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mhanlen
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Brinyte B158 mod thread

So I’ve been meaning to start this for a few days now. There’s another Brinyte B158 group buy thread, where you can get this budget friendly beast for under $23 from Gear Best, before the $2 upgraded shipping charge. So check it out for more details.

Out of the box and with XML2 5-mode version you get about 58kcd, which ain’t bad for a zooming light. But what’s great about this light is it’s mod potential. It has an easily swappable solid brass pill, so you can carry a few different types of LED/driver combos with you. Anyway I had a spare red pill that I gutted and I put in a BLF A6 FET driver and a factory dedomed XPL HI… which gave me in the neighborhood of 170kcd. But you can easily get over 300kcd if you throw in a dedomed XP-G2, like Kloepper Knife Works did. Here is my mod video, and how I did it.

Anyway this is a mod thread, so post questions comments, and details on your mod.

Edited by: mhanlen on 12/09/2015 - 20:39
Kloepper Knife Works
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Here’s a compilation of the pertinent modifying information for the Brinyte B158 that I posted in the group buy thread. I’ll try to include any new information I find or measurements I take at the top of this post, with the newest on top.



Currently waiting on lights…..



These quotes are in chronological order from the group buy thread.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
Alright ladies and gentlemen, I have my light in from fasttech. I haven’t tested output yet or modified it, but initial impressions are very similar to what mhanlen posted in his video review.

Fit and finish kills the Uniquefire T20. I’m not exaggerating, head movement has firm even resistance through entire travel with almost no wobble in the head, I haven’t tested yet but I’m tempted to believe the IPX-8 (2m submerged) claim by Brinyte. It appears that they use multiple start threads for the head movement, while not the greatest looking (triangular cut, some spots have anodizing worn a bit where they rubbed too much with the threads inside the head) they do look decent and don’t feel like something that should ever let you down considering the number of starts on the threading (rough guess, 12-18), which should make it basically impossible to strip the threads by hand.

Tailcap threads are triangular cut and anodized. Threading is very very smooth, with very little play in the interface between the threads. You need to have the head zoomed out to properly install the tailcap, otherwise the head covers the battery tube and you can’t tighten the cap well enough to use it to twist the head without it (tailcap) unscrewing. Once seated fully it holds well enough to use it to adjust the focus without it coming loose (for now or for good though?).

The lens, at first glance, appears to be a GREAT plastic lens. The focus quality is better than just about any stock aspheric lens light I’ve ever tested at any price. Obviously lenses like what MEM uses are of even higher quality, but considering the cost of this light this is looking like it could be a really good performer. In zoom it clearly focuses well enough to see each dot on the XM-L2 die face, in flood there are 0 rings and only a mild tint shift at the very edges of the beam. Should you fancy trying other lenses in the B158 it will fit up to 51.2mm lenses with a back focal length of 31mm or less. Since it’s plastic, if you drop the stock lens face first onto a rock while hiking, at least you won’t have a shattered lens.

It is definitely anodized. You could be mistaken for thinking there are scratches in some of the threaded surfaces where there is no anodizing, but in reality those are the marks left by the clamps for anodizing (kind of rudimentary that they’re so visible, but all are completely hidden until you start disassembling things). The anodizing is even, smooth, and matches nicely on all parts. Should wear much better than the T20’s.

Assembly/disassembly are quick and easy for all the main bits, the only tools needed are a pair of tweezers or snap-ring pliers for the tailcap.

Provided this light performs how I think it’s going to I’ll probably be upping my qty on the ground buy. Stay tuned!

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
The tint shift around the edge of the beam is common to all aspheric lenses. This one is better than most, so I wouldn’t worry about it.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
Took measurements of the stock light on a freshly charged Efest purple 18650.

Lumens at start: 624
Lumens at 30 sec: 572
Lumens at 90 sec: 548

Candela (measured at 27’): 56kcd

Looks like our numbers match up pretty well.


Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
Just had my first disappointment with the B158. The 105c driver sits loose inside the pill, + and – are soldered to it from a contact plate(+) and pressed in brass ring(-). The thing that disappoints me is the press fit ring. What a pain to get out. This likely means a 17mm driver will float a bit and be hard to solder in place. We’ll see, I’m working on the build now, hopefully later today I’ll have modified numbers posted and some more thoughts on how mounting a 17mm MTN-DD driver goes.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
Get ready for this group buy to explode. I finished the mods, dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon, MTN-DD driver (which fit fine with the little tabs on it, they hold it in place nicely for soldering, don’t sand them off like normal), no spring bypass on the tailcap or new switch.

I’m still waiting on my 30Q’s to charge, but on a Sanyo laptop pull that was at 4.1V when I put it in I measured over 240kcd at 30 seconds.

I smashed the top of the press fit ring to pry it out, YMMV. Plan for the contact plate to be trashed and maybe saving the driver if you need a spare 105c.

I’ll update later with 30Q and tailcap spring bypassed.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
Put me down for 20 total in red.

Fully charged Samsung 30Q, spring bypasses on both ends, dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B (not cherry picked) on 16mm Noctigon soldered directly to the pill, MTN-DD driver.

310,118cd

Jaw hits floor…..

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
To give some perspective, a Jax Z1 at about 4.5A to a dedomed XP-G2 S2 2B makes around 245kcd with a smaller hotspot, costs 3x more, and has a green tint because of the type of coating on the lens.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
I tend to always solder drivers to pills if it is an option, so if you’re comfortable doing that you shouldn’t need the brass press fit ring.

Same goes for the centering disc and white hold down disc for the LED, if you like soldering MCPCB’s to the pill the centering disc and white disc aren’t necessary except for cosmetic reasons. If you prefer thermal paste they’d be very helpful to have.

Provided they’ve got the part right, I’ll probably buy 10 of the bare pills with the 20 lights. That way at least half of them are easy to mod, and leaves a guy a spare red module in case it’s needed.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
I’ve never had components come off while soldering a driver in, but I did learn a while back to do a 30° arc of soldering, do another one opposite of it, then let cool for 90 seconds, repeat. If I try to do it all at once I’ve found it burns up about 50% of MCU’s unless the pill wall is very thin where you’re soldering.

If you pre-tin the edge you’re going to solder to on the pill it becomes easier to solder the driver in place. I tend to run my soldering iron at around 425°C, very little flux as long as the pill edge is pre-tinned, and use a wiping motion.

To solder the MCPCB to the pill I use one of those small refillable butane torches and solder paste. I clamp the pill in a metal clamp, apply the paste and MCPCB, heat with the torch till it flows, and then make sure to press down a little to get the MCPCB as tight to the brass pill as possible. Centering with these pills is easier if you have a small shim, or are able to accurately reduce a 20mm MCPCB to about 19mm.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
kzrm316 wrote:
djozz wrote:

vēer wrote:
One pill for me then, so its one white light and one pill in total ;)! Thanks! KKW – do you have any other lights with screw-in pills, could you see if those pills fit or not :D?

Good point, it does not look completely impossible that the standard C8 (UF T20) pill will fit ($2.21):

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10002799/1208600-driver-pillar-w-...

(btw, the Convoy C8 pill is different from this one)

 

For those who already have the light can you please measure the dimension of the pill, maybe that c8 pill will fit?
Anyway, please add me for one red light. Thanks.

I just checked and the T20 pill and generic C8 pill I have don’t fit the B158. I measured the B158 pill as an M21×1 thread. Length is similar to the T20/C8 pills.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
mhanlen wrote:
No, but KKW did a group buy on that one a while back. I can’t be sure if he prefers that or the Brinyte.

Actually it was n10sivern who organized that group buy, I just happened to buy a lot of them, just like I’m going to on this one.

In terms of sheer output, the 1504 is better, but if you ask me which model I’m going to carry more it’s going to be the Brinyte. It’s just a more manageable size, lighter, better build quality, water resistant, and has a better lens quality (and won’t shatter).

In use it would be hard to notice the 100-200m advantage of the 1504, but it is easy to see the advantages of the Brinyte. Although I really want to complain about the cost of the pills, it’s still a good price all said and done on a light that really knocks 2 other lights out of my on hand stock, the T20 and 1504. It destroys the T20, and performs staggeringly close to the performance of the much larger 1504, while beating them both on build quality.

I’m going to pull out a MEM approved lens that should fit the Brinyte and see how much improved it can get from its already excellent output.

Edit: MEM approved lens on hold till I reduce the diameter 2mm. It’s only got about a 1mm wide rim, so I may decide not to risk it, but changing out the head may not be too hard….

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
shrick wrote:
Ok, I’m almost in for around 10-20 of these. It does not really mind which I’m taking, will strip out everything and rebuild. I presume it will be best to add mine to the red section to get the most qty there? Let me know. Will also take around 10 qty of the bare pills, hope the price on these can also drop a bit more? Would have been great if Brinyte could incorporate screw-in retainer ring for the driver – will make this light a winner.

But, before I confirm, I see there’s quite some rings when zoomed in? Could anybody maybe fiddle with some matt black paint to see if these go away?

I’m going to primarily use these as gun mountable options. KKW, I know you’re into hunting… do you have any concerns around this light being used on guns? Do you 100% approve of the mounting mechanism supplied with the light.

A few more questions…

Whats the price on the remote switch?

Whats the quality of the remote switch. I know the switches for the UF-XXX models are quite cheap?

Did anybody test the resistance of the remote switch? Or, maybe the drop in output whilst using it? Trying to accurately find out how much performance will be lost in using them.

Thanks!

I’ve found that the beam in zoom or flood is quite ring free compared to most zoomies. The light I modified had nothing done to darken the interior of the head, and at more than 30’ it’s almost impossible to see any rings in the beam outside. I’d rate the beam quality as excellent on this light.

As for the rail mount, I actually am not a hunter, though I have many friends who are. The light I have is actually getting sold tomorrow to a friend of mine who is a hunter for his AR. If I had any gripes about the mount it would be the height. An extra 4mm of height would have allowed the head to clear the rail, as it sits it would need to be mounted all the way forward, or a shim and longer screws to raise the mounting position. This could be as simple as drilling a couple of holes through a block of the right height, width, and length, or a trip to the hardware store for a couple of aluminum tube style spacers.

I wasn’t aware there was a pressure switch specifically for this light, but I just put one of the pressure switches for the 1504 in the B158, it’s a direct swap. I put a jumper on the spring on the 1504 pressure switches when I use them, as most of my lights pull a fair number of amps. By eye I’m not seeing a huge difference in output compared to the stock switch with jumper on the spring. I think I tested the drop at one point in a 1504 and it was pretty minimal compared to the stock switch, maybe a 5-10% loss in candela output. YMMV

By the way, mhanlen, go ahead and put me down for 20 bare pills total to match my 20 lights. Just remembering having to take that driver retaining ring off is weakening my resolve not to spend the extra $60.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
You need 4 parts to hit 300kcd+.

A dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon, solder or thermal adhesive to mount it, a good FET driver like the 17mm MTN-DD driver, and a wire jumper on the tailcap spring. All of these should be easy to order from the Mountain Electronics international store.

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
What ^ said. In order of throw assuming driven hard. In a 1 cell light the line between the domed XP-G2 and dedomed XP-L/XM-L2 is much closer and might flip because of the XP-L and XM-L2 being able to pull more current in a single cell setup. Dedomed the XP-G2 is king for throw in this size lens/power class.

Dedomed XP-G2
XP-G2
Dedomed XP-L/XM-L2
XP-L HI (throw is close to the dedomed option)
XP-L/XM-L2

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I wonder what a triple emitter would do in this light? You could be like Predator and have 3 dots on target.

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Sharpie wrote:
I am interested to know the thread dimensions of the pill, i.e. diameter across the threads, and their pitch.

Also the maximum diameter where you grip the pill to unscrew it.

Wondering whether an alternative pill for a C8 might fit, perhaps by filing down the outer rim.

I just tried Ultrafire C10 and C8 pills and they are a larger diameter, by a mm or so and thus won’t fit.

In other news, I just realised I have no 2.8A drivers for my XP-G2 mod for the B158. Sad

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blitzwing wrote:
Sharpie wrote:
I am interested to know the thread dimensions of the pill, i.e. diameter across the threads, and their pitch.

Also the maximum diameter where you grip the pill to unscrew it.

Wondering whether an alternative pill for a C8 might fit, perhaps by filing down the outer rim.

I just tried Ultrafire C10 and C8 pills and they are a larger diameter, by a mm or so and thus won’t fit.

In other news, I just realised I have no 2.8A drivers for my XP-G2 mod for the B158. Sad

Yes, I had stated somewhere in the group buy thread that C8 pills don’t work, and the diameter and pitch of the Brinyte pill. Getting that and the modding stuff copied over to the “Placeholder” post I have above is on my to-do list.

Is there a reason you want to run 2.8A? If no particular reason, throw in a FET driver with your XP-G2.

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good video, thanks for sharing

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Kloepper Knife Works wrote:

Is there a reason you want to run 2.8A? If no particular reason, throw in a FET driver with your XP-G2.

Sorry, I’m not at all familiar with FET drivers.

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I’ve updated post #2 to include the modification information I posted in the group buy thread. I’ll keep links or quotes to pertinent information I post there.

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Thanks KKW,

Now we can start talk Smile

 

So you mentioned that is very hard to remove the driver out? Did you try to use heat gun?

Heat gun should de solder inner side where driver is soldered to, and than it could pop out much easier without damaging pill? Of course some kind of bench vise, hammer and nails Smile needs to be used.

 

I think we got to return on pressure switch talk cause this is big enigma(at least for me).

I saw you wrote that you only have 5-10% loss with 1504 FET and only mod you did is spring bypass?

In my experience light loss is more than 30%... More like 40% with spring bypass done and even more if it is not done.

Hope you'll manage to crack pressure switch somehow so it can be run with FET drivers without light loss.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Thanks KKW,

Now we can start talk Smile

 

So you mentioned that is very hard to remove the driver out? Did you try to use heat gun?

Heat gun should de solder inner side where driver is soldered to, and than it could pop out much easier without damaging pill? Of course some kind of bench vise, hammer and nails Smile needs to be used.

 

I think we got to return on pressure switch talk cause this is big enigma(at least for me).

I saw you wrote that you only have 5-10% loss with 1504 FET and only mod you did is spring bypass?

In my experience light loss is more than 30%… More like 40% with spring bypass done and even more if it is not done.

Hope you’ll manage to crack pressure switch somehow so it can be run with FET drivers without light loss.

This was the first attempt at disassembling the pill, so I was trying to feel it out. In the future, knowing what I know now I’d just hit the whole pill with my butane torch until everything dropped out.

Got distracted by a sick kid and my quadcopter build. I’ll try and get some numbers for the 1504 pressure switch this weekend.

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1504/1503 switch should fit nice to B158 so if guys can't get B158 one they can put UF switch inside right?

Looking forward for pressure switch modifications Smile

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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blitzwing
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I’m confused here – mhanlen’s video shows a one piece driver but Kloepper Knife Works says he found a contact board and driver floating around in the pill.

Different driver types altogether for the XM-L and XP-E?

I am not at all keen on the floating driver!

I’ve had other lights which used a 20mm contact board and 17mm driver flopping around inside the pill and had issues….flickering and cutout – possibly the driver was shorting inside the pill?

I was about to order a number of B158’s….now I’m not so sure…. Flat Stare

Pressure switch – I have a couple of Brinyte S28 tailcaps with pressure switches lying around (I don’t use them for my hunting, just one more thing to get hooked up at night….) and the S28 tailcap screwed straight on to the B158 and worked fine.

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One of the boards shown in KKW's picture shows a NANJG 105C which can not have been a stock board, his text is a bit confusing but I assume his copy had a single board too.

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Just looking at my three pills, the XM-L and red and green XP-E’s, the boards appear different.

The XM-L has the same blue coloured board as in KKW’s pics, and the other two have a green coloured board with the familiar grounding stars for mode selection around the outside. My XM-L is three mode, the other two are single mode. I’m assuming what I’m seeing is the outside of a single driver board on the XP-E units, not just a contact board. Maybe I’ll disassemble one of the green ones I have, I don’t really use them. In any case, I have some spare drivers.

The mount – I’ve used my B158 in the field a few times, mounted on both my .17HMR and .223 bolt action. The light worked quite well and I’ve taken over 30 foxes using it, with both the white and red LED’s.

The included mount will work on one of those scope mounted ring-rails, on a 40mm AO scope and it just clears. On my .17HMR the light can sit directly over the low profile vertical scope turret.

On the .223 which has tall, target style turrets I just offset the mount to about 1 o’clock so the torch sits between the vertical and horizontal turrets.

I haven’t tried this light on a harder kicking rifle than the .223 (next to no recoil) but I have thumped the light pretty hard with my hand from the front, back and side while it’s on to see if it flickers. It doesn’t. Smile

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Nice info. How you consider focusing action when rifle mounted? Hard or easy? Do you have to watch to not unscrew tailcap when doing focusing?

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Nice info. How you consider focusing action when rifle mounted? Hard or easy? Do you have to watch to not unscrew tailcap when doing focusing?

TBH, I tend not to play with the focus when I’m hunting. On average I’m calling foxes in to around 50 – 75m so I set the focus a bit less than fully focused as I want a bit more spread – in particular with the tight spot of the red XP-E.

I did test out focusing the light with the rifle shouldered and a fox coming in the other night and it worked OK.

Yes, loosening the tailcap when adjusting focus can happen if you aren’t careful! I tend to tighten it up as hard as I can by hand and be careful to grab ahead of it if I can – the light is never used on full flood so there’s some battery tube left to grab.

For those interested, here’s a fox lit up at about 50m. Screengrabs from footage of my ATN gun camera, which has 5X optical zoom.

Another a bit closer.

Red XP-E pill at about 20m, defocused a bit.

I’ll be doing an XP-G2 pill, not that I often need really long throw but it will be interesting and handy to have. Smile

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djozz wrote:

One of the boards shown in KKW’s picture shows a NANJG 105C which can not have been a stock board, his text is a bit confusing but I assume his copy had a single board too.

Oh yes it was the stock board. The picture is of what came in the pill. I think one of two things is going on.

1. The white LED drivers use the contact plate, while the green and red versions don’t.

2. The lights sold by fasttech are different than the ones being sold through gearbest, possibly an earlier revision.

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blitzwing wrote:
Yes, loosening the tailcap when adjusting focus can happen if you aren't careful! I tend to tighten it up as hard as I can by hand and be careful to grab ahead of it if I can - the light is never used on full flood so there's some battery tube left to grab.

Thanks,

That may be crucial in choosing UF1503(T50) over B158.

This mentioned above is maybe their design flaw. They could put some kind ring(anti roll) similar as this to eliminate possible tailcap unscrewing during focusing issue:

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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blitzwing
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Yeah, it’s not ideal that the tailcap can come unscrewed during focusing.

TBH, if I was really worried out it, I’d tape the tailcap up before a night’s hunting so that couldn’t happen.

My samples have come direct from Brinyte, FYI.

Does anyone else think the driver floating around inside the pill is a big issue, apart from heat buildup?

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blitzwing wrote:
Does anyone else think the driver floating around inside the pill is a big issue, apart from heat buildup?

I do, but it doesn’t sound like all of them are put together that way, only those of us who got white ones from fasttech have seen the 2 board setup(I think, unless you got a white one from Brinyte that way). We’ll have to see how the ones from gearbest come, it appears the colored ones will not have floaters.

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Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
blitzwing wrote:
Does anyone else think the driver floating around inside the pill is a big issue, apart from heat buildup?

I do, but it doesn’t sound like all of them are put together that way, only those of us who got white ones from fasttech have seen the 2 board setup(I think, unless you got a white one from Brinyte that way). We’ll have to see how the ones from gearbest come, it appears the colored ones will not have floaters.

What other issues do you foresee?

I really don’t get why they would built lights like this with floating drivers – they’ve made those nice, heavy brass pills and then throw away the heatsinking aspect of it by having the driver floating inside in thin air.

AND it overcomplicates the assembly process. :*

Not wanting to pull my pills to bits, I probed down through the LED wire holes on the green XP-E and XM-L units and it does seem that the XP-E has a single board while the XM-L has the contact board and separate driver floating in the pill.

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blitzwing wrote:
Yeah, it’s not ideal that the tailcap can come unscrewed during focusing.

TBH, if I was really worried out it, I’d tape the tailcap up before a night’s hunting so that couldn’t happen.

My samples have come direct from Brinyte, FYI.

Does anyone else think the driver floating around inside the pill is a big issue, apart from heat buildup?

Maybe. I don’t have that problem now that I’ve modded mine. I feel like most people who have got in on this group buy purchased the red light, with the intention of modding it- so it won’t be a problem. And yes, the XP-E does have a single board, unless there’s a different revision floating around. My video confirms this.

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Maybe a piece of inner tube stretched over the tube and tail cap?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

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Yeah that might work.

For those interested, a 30mm scope ring will neatly fit the neck section of the B158 if you need a higher mount. There is ample clearance here on a 40mm scope with AO. And of course there are higher mounts than this out there. This is just a DX cheapie and they work fine for mounting lights. Smile

That’s a Brinyte S28 tailcap with pressure switch by the way, and it works. (I don’t use pressure switches, it’s just a ‘speriment) Smile

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Thanks blitzwing. If its no trouble could you post up a couple of links.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

blitzwing
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Posts: 231

Sure.

The mount used above:

http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-alloy-25-30mm-gun-rail-mount-black-2-pcs-23...

The 25mm rail adaptor that is on the scope – this is a 25mm / 1” one but they have 30mm also.

http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-alloy-bracket-mount-with-hex-wrench-for-m16...

I got my pressure switch with a batch of Brinyte S28’s, I see they are listed on Aliexpress for a somewhat steep price….

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Brinyte-S18-S28-Re...

MRsDNF
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Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Thanks blitzwing. Now for some lights. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

blitzwing
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I’m wondering how a red SST-90 might go in one of these. Big Smile

The XP-E on full focus is TIGHT, if you lose an inbound fox it’s almost like searching with a laser beam trying to pick it up again…. Wink

Kloepper Knife Works
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Location: Lincoln, NE

New results with a 6×7135 Q.lite driving a red XP-E2, and an XQE at around 3A coming soon.

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