Brinyte B158 mod thread

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MRsDNF
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Thats very sweet looking zipelgas. What did you blacken the tube with after smoothing it down?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

evankouros
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MRsDNF wrote:
Thats very sweet looking zipelgas. What did you blacken the tube with after smoothing it down?

+1 Thumbs Up
luminarium iaculator
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zipelgas wrote:
Just wanted to share me slim edition mod. I very happy how it turned out.. b158_slim.jpg

It is good but you have orange peel of over spraying… Multiple mist coats works better than few heavy coats imo.

zipelgas
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Jumbo size heat shrink tubing + sugru and an o-ring for that extra rubbery cigar gripy feel.

Overkill is just about enough!

Jerommel
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zipelgas wrote:
Just wanted to share me slim edition mod. I very happy how it turned out..
b158_slim.jpg

Nice!
I think Brinyte maybe agrees:

Smile

2Q19

MRsDNF
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Thanks. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

evankouros
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Where’s the sugru man? Question
I really can’t see it!

zipelgas
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evankouros wrote:
Where’s the sugru man? Question
I really can’t see it!
I take that as a compliment Big Smile
As I heated the tube the ends got uneven and I had to trim them down and ended up 4mm short. So I filled the gap with black sugru, that I had left over. It’s the small gap between the rubber o-ring that is sitting in the lower groove and the shrink tube. Not much and it was not supposed to be there, but it all ended up surprisingly well.

Overkill is just about enough!

Rufusbduck
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How did you remove the knobs, lathe? I’m curious as this is one I’m planning a woody mod for as soon as I decide on what wood type to use.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

zipelgas
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Yep – it was done with a lathe. I found it to be too bulky for my pocket and now it’s really much more comfortable to hold.

Overkill is just about enough!

Mike C
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zipelgas wrote:
Yep – it was done with a lathe. I found it to be too bulky for my pocket and now it’s really much more comfortable to hold.

Nice work. I might have a go at it myself. You didn’t paint anything, you used shrink tube and sugru? (have no idea what sugru is other than what google tells me).
zipelgas
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I think heat shrink tubing is a very nice finishing option. Just learn from my mistakes and leave it a bit longer than needed. Heat almost to size, trim ends and then heat some more to fix. Lot less messy than paint.

Overkill is just about enough!

sac02
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Excellent, zipelgas! I really dislike those stock knobs.

I need a lathe for many things…

vidramon
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Or simply buy it HERE

zipelgas
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Where the hell is the fun in that Crazy

Overkill is just about enough!

vidramon
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Everything is done, just pay and wait to arrive Big Smile

sac02
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vidramon wrote:
Everything is done, just pay and wait to arrive Big Smile

Any codes for that B158B? LOL

vidramon
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sac02 wrote:
vidramon wrote:
Everything is done, just pay and wait to arrive Big Smile

Any codes for that B158B? LOL

For now there is no code. Code can be used for b158 U4 and b158 HI V3.

Dutcheee
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I modded mine today.

One pill I built with an AK 101-A1 driver (L-M-H mode order), a filed down bergquist star & oram oslon SFH4715AS IR led.

I first blew a SFH4725S led, but fortunately I ordered the 860nm variant as well. It’s for some to-be-built nightvision hunting gear.

Second pill I built with unmodded BLF A6 driver(Bistro), filed down Noctigon MCPCB & XPL V6 0D Led.

Thereafter I dedomed the led with a knife and built the second pill. I got a bit messy, but it works more than well in the end! Bypassed both springs and it pulls 5,2Amp. It has quite a nice white/yellowy tint to it after the dedome.
I tried to measure lux with my phone, but it went straight to >211Klux @100cm, wich is the max the sensor can measure.. There’s a first time for everything Silly

Crazy thrower, can’t wait to use it in the field. I can just pop in another pill for the task needed and only carry one light with me.

Test pic


Building 400mtr away over city light.
Best thrower I own to date!

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That’s crazy. They should make upgraded “super” pill though XPL-HI is good. I like this light. Does it dissipate heat good?

Dutcheee
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Yes, it does. I didn’t run it too long. It doesn’t feel too hot in any particular place and didn’t desolder itself or anything. No complaints yet Thumbs Up

Rufusbduck
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I’ve been wanting to do this since before I decided to actually get one and the other day I finally disassembled one and cut the lobes off with a hack saw. Then I chuckle it into my drill press/wannabe lathe. I continued further but stopped before getting to the bottom of the slots as that would reach the internal o-ring groves(very bad). I have a piece of Teak that might go well with a few fins. I’ll see which metal looks best to me.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

MRsDNF
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Wheres the popcorn. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Lexel
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I got yesterday my B158 with XML U4

Dedomed the LED in gas and sealed it with clear laquer

The Nanjg 105C driver was hanging in the pill between a contact board and LED
Changed the driver to Biscotti and removed the contact board and soldered the driver to the ring that is pressed in pill again

Spring bypass on driver and tailcap

The star is DTP copper but a bit thin, mounted with Arctic Silver 5 again

LED centering ring and gasket painted black

Pill painted black mounted with thermal paste to the tube

sac02
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Lexel, did you remove the LED to confirm the MCPCB is DTP, or is there some other way to confirm it? You can have copper MCPCB without DTP.

I thought the way to test for DTP (instead of just a copper MCPCB with no DTP) was to test for electrical continuity from the bottom of the MCPCB to the LED heat pad.

Is it possible to confirm if an MCPCB is DTP with the LED still attached to it?

Rufusbduck
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DTP confirmation, if there’s excess solder squeezed out from the center pad then check continuity to the bottom from there. It’s trueness that not all copper boards are DTP.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

luminarium iaculator
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Rufusbduck wrote:
DTP confirmation, if there’s excess solder squeezed out from the center pad then check continuity to the bottom from there. It’s trueness that not all copper boards are DTP.

Rufusbduc,

I support what you did to your B158 Thumbs Up

Zommies should be as light as possible in their lenses caliber and unnecessary hunch design does not help with heat sinking anyway so this is the way to go…

enesrap
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Lexel wrote:

LED centering ring and gasket painted black

Pill painted black mounted with thermal paste to the tube
!{width:70%}http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/IMG_2486.jpg!

Very good my friend, I have a restlessness, I paint the pill black and centering to eliminate the annoying rings of light? Eliminates them completely? Thank you

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It reduced em, but eliminate is not possible

Rufusbduck
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
DTP confirmation, if there’s excess solder squeezed out from the center pad then check continuity to the bottom from there. It’s trueness that not all copper boards are DTP.

Rufusbduc,

I support what you did to your B158 Thumbs Up

Zommies should be as light as possible in their lenses caliber and unnecessary hunch design does not help with heat sinking anyway so this is the way to go…


I hope you’ll still like it when finished as some of the weight will be added back but with a significant increase in surface area(at least where the pill is located). To be honest though, it’s mostly cosmetic since any gain made by the copper could well be offset by the addition of the aluminum to copper thermal break. I could do wood only but fins just look neat.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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