Brinyte B158 mod thread

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Lexel
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DTP measured after LED unsoldered

Did some minor modifications
painted the lens side black

added black paint around the emitter

still some weak rings in the beam, but probably as much as possible with an uncoated lens

sac02
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Lexel, what paint do you use? Is the paint the same type on the emitter, gasket, and centering ring? It looks much glossier on the emitter is the reason I ask.

I wonder if chalkboard paint would work well?

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In other news, for those of us in the USA, I found a good material for doing flood modification, without losing spot capability: 3/4” Type M copper pipe.

The nominal ID of this pipe is 20.60mm, and the OD of the threads on the B158 pill are 20.72 (as measured by me). So you need to sand the ID of the pipe very little – I use sandpaper wrapped around a deep socket from my toolbox and it only takes a couple minutes.

The OD of the copper pipe is less than the ID of the B158 body, so the light can still zoom in to spot setting all the way without issues.

So basically you make a ring of copper about 5mm wide, and slip it onto the pill. I like 5mm because it still gives plenty of thread engagement between the pill and flashlight body.

You will need to add some length to the tailcap end to compensate for the 5mm that you just moved the pill. I solder 5mmx2mm brass bottons to the top of the spring cap:

Now you can get more flood in the widest setting, there is little downside because the light can still zoom out completely normally (no downside other than extra work involved).

I can take some pictures next week to better illustrate how it all goes together.

Lexel
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The paint on gasket, centering ring and pill is from a matt black spray can

For the LED I used an injection needle that was dremeled flat on a 0.5ml syringe with paint from a marker refill bottle

Would have been easier to paint the LED on star before I build it in

sac02
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Thanks, nice results (forgot to say that the first time).

Rufusbduck
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Part 4?
Stacked up copper fins and spacer rings(now 1.4mm) with brazing paste and extra paste up top (extra tube gets cut off) and ran the torch around it a few extra times to be sure of adequate wicking. Then the hot bath in Fuze Clean FS. Pretty regular on the spacing and it even still fits the tube. I’ll have to wait to clean it up and cut it to size but this was a major hurdle.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Nice progress Rufusbduck, this is a major mod, very hard to do. A bit of advice for cleaning /polishing the inside of those cooling fins: put it in a wise, find a tight fit rope and polish it (with polish paste) until satisfied moving that rope back and forth. Apply moderate pressure.

What brazing products do you use for this? I purchased a Durafix rods and they do the job great but don’t flow nicely like solder. It is thick material, very hard to sand.

Rufusbduck
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What I’ve done in the past is spin the part on the drill press with a fold of successive grits of w/d paper in the gaps. Depending on the gap I’ll fold the sandpaper over different thicknesses of sheet stock to sand/polish the faces of the fins. I used to use only Radnor stay silv brazing wire and white paste flux but last year started using an SRA Products brazing paste/flux combo (similar to solder paste) for some things where secondary brazing steps favor the use of something with a lower melting point. I used the wire to braze both the main tube and the tube the spacers were cut from and the paste for the assembly. In both cases SRA Fuze Clean FS is used to dissolve the glasslike flux and heat scale prior to grinding and polishing. The reccomended water bath temp is at or above 160F. A sonic cleaner allows a lower concentration to be used so maybe I’ll get one someday. It’s pretty amazing stuff that completely removes the flux in a minute or less.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Lexel wrote:
I got yesterday my B158 with XML U4

Dedomed the LED in gas and sealed it with clear laquer

The Nanjg 105C driver was hanging in the pill between a contact board and LED
Changed the driver to Biscotti and removed the contact board and soldered the driver to the ring that is pressed in pill again

Spring bypass on driver and tailcap

The star is DTP copper but a bit thin, mounted with Arctic Silver 5 again

LED centering ring and gasket painted black

Pill painted black mounted with thermal paste to the tube

Yo Lexel, same problem here.

There are too much in my case. I do not know if I will succeed to remove all of it and to take this ring…
What you use to remove solder ? Solder wick ?

If I fail to remove all of it and not release the ring, it is good idea to solder driver directly on brass pill without a ring ?

Greg_M
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Has anyone tried a UV emitter in a B158?

The_Driver
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The plastic lens will block a large portion of the UV radiation.

Greg_M
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The_Driver wrote:
The plastic lens will block a large portion of the UV radiation.

Thanks!

Rufusbduck
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Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

sac02
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Wow, looking good! You do great stuff, Rbd.

Question: How malleable are those copper fins? I’d be worried about bending them in use and never being able to get them straight again.

Ignore my question if it is mostly a light built for show / aesthetics.

Rufusbduck
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All too malleable and yes it’s probably more for looks. They would need to be thicker and not annealed but at least they won’t stick out much past adjacent parts.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

luminarium iaculator
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Nice ribs Wink But it could be polished even better and then clear lacquer to protect copper oxidation?

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Rufusbduck
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I’m not done with it yet and you can see a lip on the smallest one still. I don’t like lacquer on metal, when it fails it’s hard to fix.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Lexel
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I measured my modded B158 dedomed XML2 U4-1A with stock driver

Cold start with 2.8A get me to 150kLux
5980 measured at 5m
770m throw

luminarium iaculator
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Nice results.

But please don’t go with throw numbers in meters of ANSI standard cause it sucks in most parts of the world except darkest ones.

150 kcd is more likely 400- 500m of usable distance Smile

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Jerommel
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Nice ribs Wink But it could be polished even better and then clear lacquer to protect copper oxidation?
rose gold plating would be best.
Looks like copper but doesn’t oxidize.
luminarium iaculator
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Jerommel wrote:
luminarium iaculator wrote:
Nice ribs Wink But it could be polished even better and then clear lacquer to protect copper oxidation?
rose gold plating would be best. Looks like copper but doesn’t oxidize.

Yes. But the simplest way is to polish the copper and properly(thinly) applied lacquer should last… This is well known method for central heating pipes. They don’t oxidize after such treatment.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Agro
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Got my B158B with XP-L HI today.
The UI is hopeless. Maybe I’m not tactical enough or whatever, but it really doesn’t work for me.

Can I flash Bistro to it or do I have to replace the driver completely?

BobbyMK
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If they still use the same Nanjg driver then Biscotti will be perfect firmware for it. In order to have Bistro firmware you will need to swap the driver.

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

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Thanks, there’s hope. Smile

gchart
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Just to echo that, yes, Biscotti is possible. Bistro is for attiny25, the included nanjg driver is attiny13a based.

Just pull out the pill. Unsoldered and carefully remove the led board (they used thermal adhesive). Push the wires into the pill. Using a small nail aimed outward toward the edge of the driver, give it a couple light taps and it should come out. They used a pressure-fit contact board that is connected to a floating nanjg driver. Good luck!

sac02
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Nice results.

But please don’t go with throw numbers in meters of ANSI standard cause it sucks in most parts of the world except darkest ones.

150 kcd is more likely 400- 500m of usable distance Smile

IMO I see nothing wrong with mentioning the ANSI standard throw numbers to the measured lux value. Using “usable distance” as a metric has no point because it is obviously going to be different for someone in Siberia compared to someone in New York City. There is a reason it is the ANSI standard – so that we can all compare equally around the world. It’s not perfect, but it is a standard that we can all use equally.

Using throw has its place because it is closer to how a non-flashaholic would rate a light – how powerful the light is scales close to linearly with how powerful it looks. Using kcd or lux is fine for flashaholics who understand the nuances of how that values is measured/calculated, but not real useful for the layperson who doesn’t know how light power scales exponentially.

edit:

On-topic: In B158 modding news, I used a dedomed SST-40 with FET driver and hit 270kcd. That was just quickly put together the other night, I don’t know yet if the SST-40 will be durable for long times with its low Vf and high amp draw. I tried chemical dedoming of an XP-L W2 for the first time last night, but it wasn’t clean and it left silicon remaining on the phosfor and didn’t hit high numbers compared to dedomed XM-L2 U4 and dedomed SST-40.

luminarium iaculator
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Yeah. Nothing wrong man…

Except no one is speaking to people what they really can expect from ANSI distance numbers… I mean on what will happen if they strictly stick to it.

So someone could be greatly disappointed to buy light that claims certain throw distance by ANSI standard and upon turning on that light to realize fact that he got only 50-60% of that distance and he really needed that claimed distance.

I was also among such people… So for example when I bought my first Super thrower at that time(Tiablo A9) that claimed to be 280 meters light(around 20kcd) and upon turning that light finding that it has only around 100-120 meters at fair dark nights is something that made me furious… So nowhere near that claimed distance and I really needed flashlight that could reach that claimed distance at that time…

After collecting some experience; read ime i found that true distance numbers are 50-60% of ANSI claimed distance numbers when used at very dark nights and even less than that when used in moonlight, star nights or snowy night conditions.

People know what they see. And since I have 10/10 eye sight because of my work I can only recommend people to listen to my advice otherwise they could be disappointed.

But man nothing wrong with ANSI… After I figured out my deduction formula I really know what distance I can expect from claimed ANSI flashlight distance. I just say people should be warned what they can expect out of flashlight.

And sure it is very nice to hear that for example 270kcd light throws 1039 meters.
Sounds excellent and no one will be disappointed with that throw that is for sure cause it really have enough throw for any human perception and even for people with bad sight but it will never reach that claimed ansi distance in RL.

Now about B158… 270 kcd in B158 are respective results but SST 40 should be very hot and very short performer at 8A current draw? So after minute or so it will drop to 200kcd?

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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tomasf
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hi ,i am looking into buying this light with a xpl hi for the throw ,but for the love of God cannot find a remote switch anywhere.
Can i get a replacement tail for this ? so i can dyi me one.
Or would i be better served with another light ? (need only throw)

thulfiqar
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tomasf wrote:
hi ,i am looking into buying this light with a xpl hi for the throw ,but for the love of God cannot find a remote switch anywhere. Can i get a replacement tail for this ? so i can dyi me one. Or would i be better served with another light ? (need only throw)

if you want the maximum throw Then use a flashlight with a bigger Lens
The Uniquefire T75 uses a 75mm Lens That’s why most hunters use it

The T67= (67mm lens) is also Great but has a slightly less range than the T75

the Brynite uses a 50mm lens, it is a good thrower but the Uniquefire ones have alot of accessories like remote switches, Pills and such.

Lexel
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Remote switches are tricky because they often have a very high voltage drop

There are very few useful remotes who use a FET and battery to have the same or less resistance like the switch

I am thinking of doing a remote PCB that contains a small FET and battery for DIY

luminarium iaculator
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Lexel wrote:
Remote switches are tricky because they often have a very high voltage drop

There are very few useful remotes who use a FET and battery to have the same or less resistance like the switch

I am thinking of doing a remote PCB that contains a small FET and battery for DIY

I am interested in switches for single 18650 fet lights.

Normally with generic monkey tail switch around 40% of performance drop will happen which is really not acceptable in my book so I toss all stupid tail switches I tried… None of commercial switches worked good with my single 18650 fet driver setup.

I know there is a way like making own straight cable 18 awg wires soldered on some kind of thin… I don’t know to find a word for it but it would be V shaped thingy that latches only when V shape merged into I shape…

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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