Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

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Texlite
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Now that is weird? Looks like Extrusion or Broach marks to me!

My (2) right off the machine bare naked L6’s have radial tooling marks, and not straight thru either, like it was bored/gun drilled maybe reamed from both ends, I can see the tooling transition marks inside!

I have seen this done on Trunion Machines were opposing spindles come in from both sides, while the tube is clamped. Like on axle tubes and PTO shafts.

Probably right about them being extrusion marks.

My WAG would be that they’re using extruded tube with the proper inner diameter and all the work is done on the outside, so what you’d be seeing is the “raw” inner surface of the tube. Just a guess, but it’s how I do it if tube is available in the proper diameter. Saves from having to reach way in with a boring bar on my small machine, that and time.

Texlite
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Etex wrote:
Driver wires look ok. How do I check the LED? !{width:50%}20170503_213845!

If your multimeter has a diode function it’s the easiest way to check and you won’t have to de-solder from the MCPCB, just touch the leads to the pads, when correct polarity the emitter will glow low like a moon mode. The meter will have a diode symbol.

Has there been a consensus reached for the battery issue? I want to order and last I checked the thread I thought the “approved” batteries were GTG. Have I missed something?

Thanks!

EasyB
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Texlite wrote:

If your multimeter has a diode function it’s the easiest way to check and you won’t have to de-solder from the MCPCB, just touch the leads to the pads, when correct polarity the emitter will glow low like a moon mode. The meter will have a diode symbol.

This doesn’t work with 6V emitters, at least with my DMM.

giorgoskok
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Jack Kellar wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Finally received my L6 short tube .

Man…. Love the look !

Ultra compact thrower Big Smile


That is a beautiful piece of art. If only it was single-cell!

I have been trying to make a single cell one . I have the reflector , driver and the emitter bit not the host … And i don’t know who will machine the mcpcb place

gchart
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Texlite wrote:
Has there been a consensus reached for the battery issue? I want to order and last I checked the thread I thought the “approved” batteries were GTG. Have I missed something?

I don’t think there’s an “official” consensus. As I reported yesterday, I just got an L6 and batteries and everything fit just fine. I’m wondering if there just isn’t a “bad” (double wrapped?) batch of batteries floating around.
JasonWW
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Jack Kellar wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Finally received my L6 short tube .

Man…. Love the look !

Ultra compact thrower Big Smile


That is a beautiful piece of art. If only it was single-cell!

It’s not single cell? The xp-g2 is 3 volt, right?

I’m guess your using a pair of 26350 and the buck driver is dropping the voltage down for it?

Does a regular FET driver not deliver the performance you want?

My Convoy L6 thread with Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

gchart
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That’s what I was wondering too. Might as well go with the increased capacity of 1× 26650 instead of 2× 26350. And cheaper/simpler driver, including retention of the e-switch.

All else equal (emitter, driver, battery), I wonder how a L6 w/ SMO would compare against a L2? Sure it’s a slightly smaller reflector and you lose the side switch, but the L2 is considerably cheaper, readily available in host form, has an XP-sized option, and comes with a SMO reflector (vs purchased separately). Beamshots, anyone?

Texlite
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EasyB wrote:
Texlite wrote:

If your multimeter has a diode function it’s the easiest way to check and you won’t have to de-solder from the MCPCB, just touch the leads to the pads, when correct polarity the emitter will glow low like a moon mode. The meter will have a diode symbol.

This doesn’t work with 6V emitters, at least with my DMM.

Didn’t think about that, the one I use for this has the diode and continuity check on the same tap position with no way to switch between the two functions, maybe that’s why it works?

ETA: Just went and dug out a couple of other meters, 2 of the 3 won’t light the emitter or beep, the third does. Never thought about it before as the third is the meter I always use.

gchart wrote:
Texlite wrote:
Has there been a consensus reached for the battery issue? I want to order and last I checked the thread I thought the “approved” batteries were GTG. Have I missed something?
I don’t think there’s an “official” consensus. As I reported yesterday, I just got an L6 and batteries and everything fit just fine. I’m wondering if there just isn’t a “bad” (double wrapped?) batch of batteries floating around.

Ok, thanks much for the info, missed your post initially, sorry.

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Well, JasonWW was right it seems my led was in backwards.

I just installed a new TA driver with Narsil, and kept the wires reversed…..it works!!! (Thanks Lexel & Texas Ace).

This is huge, big deal for me, as it was my first real mod, with my extreme lack of soldering skills. It ain’t pretty, but it is functional. Now to figure out how to keep the ramping going in the same direction.

DB Custom
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A single cell won’t deliver max power through an XP-G2 due to high forward voltage. Using 2 cells with a Buck driver allows 5.5A or more, which one cell alone simply can’t reach.

Dale

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Etex, pause for about 2 seconds, maybe a second a half, the ramping will continue in the direction you were going before.

Dale

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Or if you don’t wish to wait, quickly hit button to reverse then release and do it again and you’ll be going “forward” again.

Dale

Texlite
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Etex wrote:
Well, JasonWW was right it seems my led was in backwards. I just installed a new TA driver with Narsil, and kept the wires reversed…..it works!!! (Thanks Lexel & Texas Ace).

This is huge, big deal for me, as it was my first real mod, with my extreme lack of soldering skills. It ain’t pretty, but it is functional. Now to figure out how to keep the ramping going in the same direction.

Congrats!

You’ve got the bug now, won’t be your last.

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Thanks Dale, that works consistantly now, guess I was being a little to quick on the trigger.

This ramping is soooo coool!

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gchart wrote:
That’s what I was wondering too. Might as well go with the increased capacity of 1× 26650 instead of 2× 26350. And cheaper/simpler driver, including retention of the e-switch.

All else equal (emitter, driver, battery), I wonder how a L6 w/ SMO would compare against a L2? Sure it’s a slightly smaller reflector and you lose the side switch, but the L2 is considerably cheaper, readily available in host form, has an XP-sized option, and comes with a SMO reflector (vs purchased separately). Beamshots, anyone?


If I’m one to presume, it’d likely be a difference similar to the one between the M1 and the M2: not much, but it’d be floodier.

Now on the note of beams, if we could get an L2 with the same beam profile of the L6, I’d be one very happy flashaholic Big Smile

gchart
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DB Custom wrote:
A single cell won’t deliver max power through an XP-G2 due to high forward voltage. Using 2 cells with a Buck driver allows 5.5A or more, which one cell alone simply can’t reach.

Thanks, Dale (you posting fiend!). I’ve never really messed around with buck drivers, still a lot to learn there.
Etex
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Texlite wrote:
Etex wrote:
Well, JasonWW was right it seems my led was in backwards. I just installed a new TA driver with Narsil, and kept the wires reversed…..it works!!! (Thanks Lexel & Texas Ace).

This is huge, big deal for me, as it was my first real mod, with my extreme lack of soldering skills. It ain’t pretty, but it is functional. Now to figure out how to keep the ramping going in the same direction.

Congrats!

You’ve got the bug now, won’t be your last.

Thanks, I did happen to buy 2 of those drivers….so I’ll get to do it again. I may have to get a new Iron, the old Weller 3202b seems to be inconsistant.

Texlite
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Etex wrote:
Texlite wrote:
Etex wrote:
Well, JasonWW was right it seems my led was in backwards. I just installed a new TA driver with Narsil, and kept the wires reversed…..it works!!! (Thanks Lexel & Texas Ace).

This is huge, big deal for me, as it was my first real mod, with my extreme lack of soldering skills. It ain’t pretty, but it is functional. Now to figure out how to keep the ramping going in the same direction.

Congrats!

You’ve got the bug now, won’t be your last.

Thanks, I did happen to buy 2 of those drivers….so I’ll get to do it again. I may have to get a new Iron, the old Weller 3202b seems to be inconsistant.

PM inbound regarding soldering iron…

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I love reading all of this, but I do have one question…

Does everyone know that there is a thread entirely dedicated to modding the L2 and L6? HERE IT IS!

I don’t think that I can un-derail a BLF thread Big Smile

That is beyond my level of influence but I do have to try once in a while!

The main reason I bring this up is that if I were searching for how to mod my L6 or L2 and I were either not a BLF member (ridiculous, I know) or a BLF member who was not as obsessed with this madness as I and most of you are then I would probably look at the modding thread where sadly, I would miss much of this excellent discussion.

Sadly, the modding thread only has a fraction of what is being posted in the main L6 thread. Tired

So if any of you want to head over there please do! Wink

The pic in the OP of that thread BTW is a mash-up combo of L2 and L6 modded and stock (the modded version a DB custom) and topped off with a knife customized by our late and great modding mentor and very missed friend, Old Lumens. RIP brother…

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J-Dub74 wrote:
I love reading all of this, but I do have one question…

Does everyone know that there is a thread entirely dedicated to modding the L2 and L6? HERE IT IS!

It’s just that this thread is seriously notorious… Hey J-Dub, how about you put a description of the mod thread front page first post on top with a link? More people will see it instantly (hopefully) and use it… Just an idea. Smile

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My bad, I’ll do better. The reverse wires were an anomally, but still only relevant for modding.

Thanks

giorgoskok
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gchart wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
A single cell won’t deliver max power through an XP-G2 due to high forward voltage. Using 2 cells with a Buck driver allows 5.5A or more, which one cell alone simply can’t reach.
Thanks, Dale (you posting fiend!). I’ve never really messed around with buck drivers, still a lot to learn there.

That’s why i want to build the single cell version , for comparison and because it will be a cool thrower .

I have seen very good results from single cell powered xp-g2 S4 emmitters , and i would really like to know the outcome on this too .

Sorry Jdub:)

J-Dub74
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hIKARInoob wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
I love reading all of this, but I do have one question…

Does everyone know that there is a thread entirely dedicated to modding the L2 and L6? HERE IT IS!

It’s just that this thread is seriously notorious… Hey J-Dub, how about you put a description of the mod thread front page first post on top with a link? More people will see it instantly (hopefully) and use it… Just an idea. Smile

Ha! Not bad advice coming from a “noob” Wink
Done. Thank you. Thumbs Up
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The spring bypass at the tail end of my L6 has broken off (at the lower end of spring). Looks a bit tricky to re-attach (my soldering skills are limited). How much lumen loss do you think I would be getting by not having the tail spring bypassed?

DB Custom
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Probably most critical if your L6 is bumped in power. If stock, the output difference won’t be all that noticeable. If bumped, your spring could collapse under the load, which is the real reason for the spring bypass in the first place.
It’s not difficult to solder a wire in, try to wrap the bare wire over the top coil of the spring before applying solder, this helps it stay together better.

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
Probably most critical if your L6 is bumped in power. If stock, the output difference won’t be all that noticeable. If bumped, your spring could collapse under the load, which is the real reason for the spring bypass in the first place.
It’s not difficult to solder a wire in, try to wrap the bare wire over the top coil of the spring before applying solder, this helps it stay together better.

Hi,
My L6 is stock, so I’m not sure if it is worth re-soldering. I’ve not noticed any visual change in output. Still, might give it a try based on your advice.
Regards,
Stephen
hIKARInoob
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J-Dub74 wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
I love reading all of this, but I do have one question…

Does everyone know that there is a thread entirely dedicated to modding the L2 and L6? HERE IT IS!

It’s just that this thread is seriously notorious… Hey J-Dub, how about you put a description of the mod thread front page first post on top with a link? More people will see it instantly (hopefully) and use it… Just an idea. Smile

Ha! Not bad advice coming from a “noob” Wink
Done. Thank you. Thumbs Up

Cheers buddy! Smile

However… I actually meant really on top of first post. Now, one needs to scroll down the first post all the way to read this message. If you put the message all the way on the top, then it’s more likely that people will get to read it, instead of clicking directly to last post and not reading it…
… And you could also post the latest news (tan/sand colour L6, or illuminated switch) right below this message, so it’s easier for people to spot it, again, instead of scrolling all the way down first post to read latest developments. Cheers again!

hIKARInoob
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stephenk wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Probably most critical if your L6 is bumped in power. If stock, the output difference won’t be all that noticeable. If bumped, your spring could collapse under the load, which is the real reason for the spring bypass in the first place. It’s not difficult to solder a wire in, try to wrap the bare wire over the top coil of the spring before applying solder, this helps it stay together better.
Hi, My L6 is stock, so I’m not sure if it is worth re-soldering. I’ve not noticed any visual change in output. Still, might give it a try based on your advice. Regards, Stephen

In terms of difference in output, the absence of a spring bypass is I think primarily of interest with a FET drive, where you want as much voltage as possible to the led (and as little voltage consumed by other components, such as the spring). The L6 has a constant current driver, so I don’t think you’re going to have much of a difference in output at all, let alone visual difference. It’s primarily a slight reduction in run-time, but I guess it’s pretty marginal. As Dale mentioned, there is a difference whether the L6 is stock or not. In stock, there is 5A going through the batteries, hence 5A through the spring. This is not a stupid high value. If you have 10A going through the batteries and spring, then a doubling in amps means quadruple in losses. This is where things get nasty. But in stock 5A form, it’s not really too big of a problem I think.

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